Is my chameleon about to shed!? Or do you think it’s something else? the lightness on his face just appeared in the past 2 hours maybe

babychameleon

New Member
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That looks possibly like the start of a shed. Is this a picture of your chameleon sleeping with its lights on or is it bed time?

@Beman What do you think?
Thank you for the reply! Sleeping with lights on unfortunately 😔 (uvb was off because he climbed right under it and i don’t want his little body to burn). I already have a vet appointment scheduled for the eye issue. I believe it’s vitamin a deficiency
 
Oh no I am sorry to hear that. Do you want to have your husbandry reviewed to see if there is anything you can change to help your little one out?
I did years of chameleon research before getting mine, so I’m pretty confident on my husbandry, I do really appreciate you though:))) But one thing , the day I dusted his food with multivitamin, he didn’t want to eat (most likely from still settling into his new home), so he didn’t get that vitamin a. The next day it didn’t cross my mind that I should dust the bugs with it again, so I didn’t, which is why i believe the eyes closed is vitamin deficiency. Since he won’t open his eyes it’s hard to get him to eat.. Do you think it would be a good idea to sprinkle a little multivitamin into water and drip it into his mouth while he’s drinking?
 
That’s awesome! If we can ever help you with anything please use us as a resource!

I think the multivitamin is ok. If your baby is closing it’s eyes during the day it’s most likely something else. I believe that a vitamin A deficiency wouldn’t be immediate and from what I’ve seen they tend to only close one eye. Another thought is possibly stress. Some chams shut down for a few days before they acclimate to a new environment or it might be something else like a parasite load. If you have an exotic vet with chameleon care experience they should be able to help you identify the cause.

This video helped me as well when my cham was closing his eyes during the day.



@kinyonga @Beman @MissSkittles - please let me know what you would add to this concerning closed eyes during the day.
 
Hi and welcome. I mean absolutely zero disrespect, but due to the amount of incorrect and outdated husbandry info out there, I would advise a husbandry review just to ensure all is correct. Eyes closed during the day is not good at all. Babies have no resources to fall back upon, so if even one small thing is off with their care, it can be bad for them. If nothing else, a full review could at least rule out a husbandry issue. Of course, it’s your decision but I believe it would be very helpful in helping you.
Chameleon Info:
  • Your Chameleon - The species, sex, and age of your chameleon. How long has it been in your care?
  • Handling - How often do you handle your chameleon?
  • Feeding - What are you feeding your cham? What amount? What is the schedule? How are you gut-loading your feeders?
  • Supplements - What brand and type of calcium and vitamin products are you dusting your feeders with and what is the schedule?
  • Watering - What kind of watering technique do you use? How often and how long to you mist? Do you see your chameleon drinking?
  • Fecal Description - Briefly note colors and consistency from recent droppings. Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites?
  • History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you.

Cage Info:
  • Cage Type - Describe your cage (Glass, Screen, Combo?) What are the dimensions?
  • Lighting - What brand, model, and types of lighting are you using? What is your daily lighting schedule?
  • Temperature - What temp range have you created (cage floor to basking spot)? Lowest overnight temp? How do you measure these temps?
  • Humidity - What are your humidity levels? How are you creating and maintaining these levels? What do you use to measure humidity?
  • Plants - Are you using live plants? If so, what kind?
  • Placement - Where is your cage located? Is it near any fans, air vents, or high traffic areas? At what height is the top of the cage relative to your room floor?
  • Location - Where are you geographically located?

Current Problem - The current problem you are concerned about.

--------------

Please Note:
  1. The more details you provide the better and more accurate help you will receive.
  2. Photos can be very helpful.
 
Hi and welcome. I mean absolutely zero disrespect, but due to the amount of incorrect and outdated husbandry info out there, I would advise a husbandry review just to ensure all is correct. Eyes closed during the day is not good at all. Babies have no resources to fall back upon, so if even one small thing is off with their care, it can be bad for them. If nothing else, a full review could at least rule out a husbandry issue. Of course, it’s your decision but I believe it would be very helpful in helping you.
Chameleon Info:
  • Your Chameleon - The species, sex, and age of your chameleon. How long has it been in your care?
  • Handling - How often do you handle your chameleon?
  • Feeding - What are you feeding your cham? What amount? What is the schedule? How are you gut-loading your feeders?
  • Supplements - What brand and type of calcium and vitamin products are you dusting your feeders with and what is the schedule?
  • Watering - What kind of watering technique do you use? How often and how long to you mist? Do you see your chameleon drinking?
  • Fecal Description - Briefly note colors and consistency from recent droppings. Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites?
  • History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you.

Cage Info:
  • Cage Type - Describe your cage (Glass, Screen, Combo?) What are the dimensions?
  • Lighting - What brand, model, and types of lighting are you using? What is your daily lighting schedule?
  • Temperature - What temp range have you created (cage floor to basking spot)? Lowest overnight temp? How do you measure these temps?
  • Humidity - What are your humidity levels? How are you creating and maintaining these levels? What do you use to measure humidity?
  • Plants - Are you using live plants? If so, what kind?
  • Placement - Where is your cage located? Is it near any fans, air vents, or high traffic areas? At what height is the top of the cage relative to your room floor?
  • Location - Where are you geographically located?

Current Problem - The current problem you are concerned about.

--------------

Please Note:
  1. The more details you provide the better and more accurate help you will receive.
  2. Photos can be very helpful.
Veiled chameleon, probably about 6-7 weeks old, I believe he’s male (small bulge and the SLIGHTEST spurs on back feet, honestly can’t tell for sure yet), been in my care for a little over 3 weeks.
I have never handled him.
I feed him crickets and dubias, however much he’ll eat, anywhere from 3-8 a day and usually in the morning. I’ve also given him 2 tiny hornworms before. The feeders eat carrots and kale.
I used pangeacal without D3 every feeding and have reptivite w d/3(which he hasn’t eaten) that i plan on dusting feeders with on the 1st and 15th of every month.
I mist for about 3 minutes 30 minutes before lights turn on and 30 minutes after they turn off. I’ve recently been misting once or twice in the daytime since i heard hatchlings need higher humidity, let me know if i should change that. I do see him drinking, he will drink from leaves and his dripper.
I haven’t seen his fecal matter in a few days but before, it was just how it should be, dark logs with white urate. Never been tested for parasites but I have a vet visit for him soon and this will be brought up since I haven’t been able to find his poops.
He’s in a 2x2x4ft screen enclosure
22” t5 HO 5.0 uvb by zoomed
50w pangea halogen heat bulb
lights turn on and off at 8.
The highest branch for him to bask on is at about 80° and declines towards to bottoms ofc, im not sure on the exact temps of anything below that. I have a temp and humidity gauge. humidity is around 40 during the day and high sixties to low seventies at night( i mist for longer at night).
I have lots of live plants all around. pothos, different dracaena variations, money tree, jade, wandering dude, and 2 more i forgot the names of but made sure they’re safe for reptiles.
the enclosure is raised 2 feet off the ground and is placed under my air vent (my dad just pointed that out to me today and i’m regretting not realizing it!!) but the vent hardly works. Also placed near my door which I now am realizing may be causing him stress from people going in and out. I plan on moving his enclosure to the corner of my room tomorrow.
I am in hot ol california
 
Thank you! Your research was correct and our husbandry sounds on point. Little one should be eating a lot more though…as much as he can eat in about 15-20 minutes, twice a day. The only other thing that could be improved is what you feed your feeders. I’d avoid kale as it has high oxalates which will bind to calcium. Most other greens are good like dandelion, turnip, mustard. Adding things like sweet potato, bell pepper, squashes and a little bit of fruit will round things out. Attaching a graphic.
Not eating enough could cause your little one to decline, so I’m wondering if you are offering more and he isn’t eating all or you are giving just 3-8 feeders. He should easily be taking in over 20 appropriately sized feeders at one sitting. Are your feeders small enough? It’s better to give ones that may be a bit too small rather than a bit too large.
If you are offering and little one is only eating so many, that leaves an unknown health issue. Parasites are always on the list of suspects as well as any number of problems. Generally, breeders will wait until their veiled babies are at least 3 months old before rehoming as sometimes babies will just fail and pass away for no visible reason. I don’t believe little one’s problem is lack of vitamin A and caution against trying to give extra as that could make things worse. Since he didn’t get any the other day, yes, go ahead and put it on the feeders. Leave the water pure. The pale areas do look like the start of shedding and babies do full body sheds like ‘poof’ - don’t blink or you’ll miss it. Is there any crusts over his eyes? If you see any that are not shed, you could very gently place a wet q tip to loosen crusts. Since I don’t feel it’s an eye issue though, there are most likely no crusts or drainage.
You may need to help him eat and pop a feeder into his mouth as he’s drinking. As a very last resort, you could get some ReptaBoost. https://www.amazon.com/Fluker-Labs-...ocphy=9011840&hvtargid=pla-348903129966&psc=1 It’s risky to force feed such a tiny guy though and the risk of causing aspiration are high. The airway is in the front of the mouth, so you need to aim for the back of the throat. Most syringes are probably too massive for such a tiny mouth. You may need to ask at a pharmacy to buy some 1 ml oral syringes. I’ve never seen any smaller than that, but you could ask.
Definitely look into getting a vent deflector. They are relatively cheap and most attach with magnets. https://www.homedepot.com/s/Vent deflector?NCNI-5
I’m hoping your vet visit is soon, as every day he’s only going to get weaker. You do have some good vets in California and I hope you’re near them and have an appointment with one. Whatever you do though - if they insist that you have to soak him or pit him in the shower, just ignore that advice. Even good vets have it stuck in their heads that all reptiles absorb water through their vents and it’s just a myth.
I’m really hoping that you can get your sweet baby feeling better quickly. Do keep us posted how he’s doing. 🙏🤞💗
IMG_1188.jpeg
 
Something is off if baby is closing its eyes during the day. I seriously doubt that it is vitamin A deficiency due to the age of the chameleon. Normally this is seen in them when they are more mature and have not gotten the supplements for a long time.

The picture looks like this is the beginning of a shed.

Multivitamin being reptivite with D3 would be used 2 times a month on the 1st and the 15th and the Pangeacal without D3 Calcium would be used at all other feedings. Note supplements should be very lightly dusted on insects. Should not look like powdered donuts.
Supplements should never be put in water. This is a really easy way to over dose them on A and D3.

I would consider misting in the morning... Give baby an opportunity to drink and clean eyes... Only doing it at night really limits it for them.



Where did you get baby from?
Can I see a picture of the entire cage and a few more of the baby?

Is baby holding its nose up or gaping at all?
 
Hi and welcome. I mean absolutely zero disrespect, but due to the amount of incorrect and outdated husbandry info out there, I would advise a husbandry review just to ensure all is correct. Eyes closed during the day is not good at all. Babies have no resources to fall back upon, so if even one small thing is off with their care, it can be bad for them. If nothing else, a full review could at least rule out a husbandry issue. Of course, it’s your decision but I believe it would be very helpful in helping you.
Chameleon Info:
  • Your Chameleon - The species, sex, and age of your chameleon. How long has it been in your care?
  • Handling - How often do you handle your chameleon?
  • Feeding - What are you feeding your cham? What amount? What is the schedule? How are you gut-loading your feeders?
  • Supplements - What brand and type of calcium and vitamin products are you dusting your feeders with and what is the schedule?
  • Watering - What kind of watering technique do you use? How often and how long to you mist? Do you see your chameleon drinking?
  • Fecal Description - Briefly note colors and consistency from recent droppings. Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites?
  • History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you.

Cage Info:
  • Cage Type - Describe your cage (Glass, Screen, Combo?) What are the dimensions?
  • Lighting - What brand, model, and types of lighting are you using? What is your daily lighting schedule?
  • Temperature - What temp range have you created (cage floor to basking spot)? Lowest overnight temp? How do you measure these temps?
  • Humidity - What are your humidity levels? How are you creating and maintaining these levels? What do you use to measure humidity?
  • Plants - Are you using live plants? If so, what kind?
  • Placement - Where is your cage located? Is it near any fans, air vents, or high traffic areas? At what height is the top of the cage relative to your room floor?
  • Location - Where are you geographically located?

Current Problem - The current problem you are concerned about.

--------------

Please Note:
  1. The more details you provide the better and more accurate help you will receive.
  2. Photos can be very helpful.
Veiled chameleon, probably about 6-7 weeks old, I believe he’s male (small bulge and the SLIGHTEST spurs on back feet, honestly can’t tell for sure yet), been in my care for a little over 3 weeks.
I have never handles him.
I feed him crickets and dubias, however much he’ll eat, anywhere from 3-8 a day and usually in the morning. I’ve also given him 2 tiny hornworms before. The feeders eat carrots and kale.
I used pangeacal without D3 every feeding and have reptivite w d/3(which he hasn’t eaten) that i plan on dusting feeders with on the 1st and 15th of every month.
I mist for about 3 minutes 30 minutes before lights turn on and 30 minutes after they turn off. I’ve recently been misting once or twice in the daytime since i heard hatchlings need higher humidity, let me know if i should change that. I do see him drinking, he will drink from leaves and his dripper.
I haven’t seen his fecal matter in a few days but before, it was just how it should be, dark logs with white urate. Never been tested for parasites but I have a vet visit for him soon and this will be brought up since I haven’t been able to find his poops.
He’s in a 2x2x4ft screen enclosure
22” t5 HO 5.0 uvb by zoomed
50w pangea halogen heat bulb
lights turn on and off at 8.
The highest branch for him to bask on is at about 80° and declines towards to bottoms ofc, im not sure on the exact temps of anything below that. I have a temp and humidity gauge. humidity is around 40 during the day and high sixties to low seventies at night( i mist for longer at night).
I have lots of live plants all around. pothos, different dracaena variations, money tree, jade, wandering dude, and 2 more i forgot the names of but made sure they’re safe for reptiles.
the enclosure is raised 2 feet off the ground and is placed under my air vent (my dad just pointed that out to me today and i’m regretting not realizing it!!) but the vent hardly works. Also placed near my door which I now am realizing may be causing him stress from people going in and out. I plan on moving his enclosure to the corner of my room tomorrow.
I am in hot ok california
Thank you! Your research was correct and our husbandry sounds on point. Little one should be eating a lot more though…as much as he can eat in about 15-20 minutes, twice a day. The only other thing that could be improved is what you feed your feeders. I’d avoid kale as it has high oxalates which will bind to calcium. Most other greens are good like dandelion, turnip, mustard. Adding things like sweet potato, bell pepper, squashes and a little bit of fruit will round things out. Attaching a graphic.
Not eating enough could cause your little one to decline, so I’m wondering if you are offering more and he isn’t eating all or you are giving just 3-8 feeders. He should easily be taking in over 20 appropriately sized feeders at one sitting. Are your feeders small enough? It’s better to give ones that may be a bit too small rather than a bit too large.
If you are offering and little one is only eating so many, that leaves an unknown health issue. Parasites are always on the list of suspects as well as any number of problems. Generally, breeders will wait until their veiled babies are at least 3 months old before rehoming as sometimes babies will just fail and pass away for no visible reason. I don’t believe little one’s problem is lack of vitamin A and caution against trying to give extra as that could make things worse. Since he didn’t get any the other day, yes, go ahead and put it on the feeders. Leave the water pure. The pale areas do look like the start of shedding and babies do full body sheds like ‘poof’ - don’t blink or you’ll miss it. Is there any crusts over his eyes? If you see any that are not shed, you could very gently place a wet q tip to loosen crusts. Since I don’t feel it’s an eye issue though, there are most likely no crusts or drainage.
You may need to help him eat and pop a feeder into his mouth as he’s drinking. As a very last resort, you could get some ReptaBoost. https://www.amazon.com/Fluker-Labs-...ocphy=9011840&hvtargid=pla-348903129966&psc=1 It’s risky to force feed such a tiny guy though and the risk of causing aspiration are high. The airway is in the front of the mouth, so you need to aim for the back of the throat. Most syringes are probably too massive for such a tiny mouth. You may need to ask at a pharmacy to buy some 1 ml oral syringes. I’ve never seen any smaller than that, but you could ask.
Definitely look into getting a vent deflector. They are relatively cheap and most attach with magnets. https://www.homedepot.com/s/Vent deflector?NCNI-5
I’m hoping your vet visit is soon, as every day he’s only going to get weaker. You do have some good vets in California and I hope you’re near them and have an appointment with one. Whatever you do though - if they insist that you have to soak him or pit him in the shower, just ignore that advice. Even good vets have it stuck in their heads that all reptiles absorb water through their vents and it’s just a myth.
I’m really hoping that you can get your sweet baby feeling better quickly. Do keep us posted how he’s doing. 🙏🤞💗
View attachment 340839
Thank you so much! I will switch the kale out for something else. The dubias i feed him are mostly teeny tiny, but the crickets are a bit bigger and I’m sure fill him up faster. I’m not able to find xs crickets near me so I use small. I start with giving him about 5 feeders then add more just to make sure they’re being eaten and don’t hide then end up getting drowned later from misting. I do believe the issue could be parasites
No signs on mbd thankfully.
Unfortunately after calling like 12 vets, the nearest appointment i could get is in 2 days😞
Also yes he is shedding:)
Yesterday he didn’t open his eyes at all, and today as well. He is still active though, hoping that’s a good sign.
Thank you again💗
 
update, i’ve come to conclusion that he’s a she lol, I took her to the vet and got stuck shed taken off along with possible mucus in a nostril. The vet gave me antibiotic drops that i’m really hoping will work! she also gave me some advice that i’m very iffy about, she recommended feeding my crickets those jelly cubes and getting a heat bulb for the night time… please let me know what you think of these as an actual experienced chameleon keeper. My chameleon is still active and hydrating. i just need to build up my comfortability with forcing food down her mouth lol, she is a bit underweight after not eating for a few days
 
I don’t recommend jelly cubes for the feeders, stick to those listed above in the chart but i think there is others that have used them though. Also no heat bulb necessary for night time if your temp is around or below 70 degrees Fahrenheit. I think down to 60 is still ok. You really want a temp drop at night. Others will probably chime in in case they feel differently.
Now since it’s a beautiful little lady do you know about lay bins and female care? It differs a bit from our males?

So glad you and your little made it to the forum! It’s a great place with wonderful people!! 😊
 
I don’t recommend jelly cubes for the feeders, stick to those listed above in the chart but i think there is others that have used them though. Also no heat bulb necessary for night time if your temp is around or below 70 degrees Fahrenheit. I think down to 60 is still ok. You really want a temp drop at night. Others will probably chime in in case they feel differently.
Now since it’s a beautiful little lady do you know about lay bins and female care? It differs a bit from our males?

So glad you and your little made it to the forum! It’s a great place with wonderful people!! 😊
I don’t recommend jelly cubes for the feeders, stick to those listed above in the chart but i think there is others that have used them though. Also no heat bulb necessary for night time if your temp is around or below 70 degrees Fahrenheit. I think down to 60 is still ok. You really want a temp drop at night. Others will probably chime in in case they feel differently.
Now since it’s a beautiful little lady do you know about lay bins and female care? It differs a bit from our males?

So glad you and your little made it to the forum! It’s a great place with wonderful people!! 😊
yes i told the veterinarian that the slight temperature drop at night is beneficial from what i’ve heard and she said no they need constant heat😳 My chameleon is hardly 2 months old so i won’t set up a laying bin until later on, but i definitely will! thank you so much, and yes i love it here!
 
yes i told the veterinarian that the slight temperature drop at night is beneficial from what i’ve heard and she said no they need constant heat😳 My chameleon is hardly 2 months old so i won’t set up a laying bin until later on, but i definitely will! thank you so much, and yes i love it here!
Ok great, yeah I would do the temp drop just like you thought butttt, with the girly being only 2mos old maybe that was a factor in the temps, mine always came 3mos or older so I may have spoke too soon @Beppo, @Beman , @MissSkittles anyone with baby experience… does one this tiny still require heat at night?

Awesome you are lay bin familiar, I was just checking in case you only researched males thinking that’s what you had. 😃

These creatures keep me on the edge of my seat, like an infant. But sometimes I feel like the infant stage of humans was easier because at least they cry, these guys nothing visual observation. 😂
 
Hello! This is the care sheet I follow for my female veiled chameleon. It includes information for littles as well. As far as I know, you treat juvenile chams the same, you just feed them a lot more than the adults.

When you are ready, here is information on a lay bin for her.
Lay Bin.jpg
 
Hello! This is the care sheet I follow for my female veiled chameleon. It includes information for littles as well. As far as I know, you treat juvenile chams the same, you just feed them a lot more than the adults.

When you are ready, here is information on a lay bin for her.
View attachment 340903
Thank you elizaann for sharing that laybin sheet, I was looking for it and confirming my thoughts on the temp drop. I sometimes overthink and began to second guess myself! 😃

I learn more than I realize here at the forum. I love this place!!
 
update, i’ve come to conclusion that he’s a she lol, I took her to the vet and got stuck shed taken off along with possible mucus in a nostril. The vet gave me antibiotic drops that i’m really hoping will work! she also gave me some advice that i’m very iffy about, she recommended feeding my crickets those jelly cubes and getting a heat bulb for the night time… please let me know what you think of these as an actual experienced chameleon keeper. My chameleon is still active and hydrating. i just need to build up my comfortability with forcing food down her mouth lol, she is a bit underweight after not eating for a few days
Are there any prominent nubs on the back of the back feet? As a rule, only males have them. There have been a few females with tiny nubs, but that is a bit rare. You’ve already gotten great advice about temps and jelly cups and then some. :) For administering medicine, fluids or force feeding the most important thing is to aim for the very back of the throat. The airway is in the front of the mouth. Once she’s feeling better, she’ll have no problem bulking herself back up. Veileds love to eat.
 
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