Is my lighting sufficient?

[ZEROPILOT]

Yes the only time were slapping a lizard on a product reduces its price. "No this isnt the pro version , this is the lizard hobby version, dont use it for peopling". Maybe soon they will stop slapping lizards on light bulb boxes and charging double

It's the same thing with tortoises. A bag of Orchid bark is $4.50.
A bag of Orchid bark with a picture of a tortoise on it becomes $20

 

[ZEROPILOT]

So....
*The coiled compact UV bulbs don't spread the UV out.
*The MV UVA, UVB. heat bulbs aren't consistent in providing UV levels and they don't broadcast very far.
*T12 used to be the normal florescent type. But had no UV
*T8 took the place of T12 and supplied some UV, not for very long. Not very far away from the tube. They can flicker. But became the standard. And still can be used in very short sided enclodures.
* T5 HO are much better at providing UV and transmit it much farther away from the tube. Also without flicker. Making them the most suitable for Chameleons and other arboreals.
Now they are widely available and the prices are now similar to the T8s and will replace them altogether eventually.
Is this more or less the lesson?
If so, I've learned.

 

[Hashtag ChamLife]

So....
*The coiled compact UV bulbs don't spread the UV out.
*The MV UVA, UVB. heat bulbs aren't consistent in providing UV levels and they don't broadcast very far.
*T12 used to be the normal florescent type. But had no UV
*T8 took the place of T12 and supplied some UV, not for very long. Not very far away from the tube. They can flicker. But became the standard. And still can be used in very short sided enclodures.
* T5 HO are much better at providing UV and transmit it much farther away from the tube. Also without flicker. Making them the most suitable for Chameleons and other arboreals.
Now they are widely available and the prices are now similar to the T8s and will replace them altogether eventually.
Is this more or less the lesson?
If so, I've learned.

Pretty much... until LEDs take the place of king Amway

 

[ZEROPILOT]

Pretty much... until LEDs take the place of king Amway

I've got LED plant lights

 

[Hashtag ChamLife]

I've got LED plant lights

Likewise.

I just don't have any that produce UVB, hehe.

 

[CamoChameleonsHuman]

Don't forget T5s are more efficient and easier on your electricity as well.

 

[nightanole]

So....
*The coiled compact UV bulbs don't spread the UV out.
*The MV UVA, UVB. heat bulbs aren't consistent in providing UV levels and they don't broadcast very far.
*T12 used to be the normal florescent type. But had no UV
*T8 took the place of T12 and supplied some UV, not for very long. Not very far away from the tube. They can flicker. But became the standard. And still can be used in very short sided enclodures.
* T5 HO are much better at providing UV and transmit it much farther away from the tube. Also without flicker. Making them the most suitable for Chameleons and other arboreals.
Now they are widely available and the prices are now similar to the T8s and will replace them altogether eventually.
Is this more or less the lesson?
If so, I've learned.

Lets see here...
T12 "vit-a-lite" was from like 1985-1995. At some point they upgraded them to "curly" which doubled the surface area and increase UVB 33%
T8 reptisun 5.0/10.0 was from 1995-2010. At some point the hoods switches from magnetic start to solid state balasts. This got rid of the flickering. They are still considered the benchmark for pre reptibreeze XL cages. Since you dont want to use T5 on 3ft and under.
T5 HO 6%/12% started in the states as back door deals with todd around late 2012. I got in when he was just selling bulbs and you had to use coral reef hoods, in early 2013.
Zoomed i think started selling 5.0/10.0 T5 HO around 2015.

The MV and metal halide self balasting started in 2000. Common issues is they are very directional, and generally only last 6-12 months before the balast dies. To the point that you could buy bulb warranties.

 

[nightanole]

Don't forget T5s are more efficient and easier on your electricity as well.

33% more light per watt vs T8. But who doesnt double the wattage when they switch to T5's? People are running quads that put out 100 watts over the top of the 24x24 cages. Nobody had even 50 watts over the cages with T8's

 

[ZEROPILOT]

2010...
Nice to know I'm only 10 years too late with my technogy.
So, because of the fact that tortoise enclosures are generally low sided, T8s can still be beneficial?
My REPTIBREEZE enclosures ARE the 4' tall XXL.

 

[nightanole]

2010...
Nice to know I'm only 10 years too late with my technogy.
So, because of the fact that tortoise enclosures are generally low sided, T8s can still be beneficial?
My REPTIBREEZE enclosures ARE the 4' tall XXL.

T8 10.0 is excellent for tortoise that top of the shell is less than a foot a way from the bulb.

ZooMed Reptisun 10.0 tube, at 12 inches distance no screen (assume no reflector):
6.2 reading: 24 µW/cm².
6.5 reading: UV Index 0.7"
A panther needs 30-35 µW/cm² peak when the bulb is fresh, and should be changed at 15-20 µW/cm².


Right now the hobby is experimenting with about 4x higher than this recommendation, AND not giving D3 supplements. The hobby has already had several cases of over supplementing trying to go for the 3.0 UVI (120µW/cm²) and keeping the old D3 supplement schedule.

 

[ZEROPILOT]

T8 10.0 is excellent for tortoise that top of the shell is less than a foot a way from the bulb.

ZooMed Reptisun 10.0 tube, at 12 inches distance no screen (assume no reflector):
6.2 reading: 24 µW/cm².
6.5 reading: UV Index 0.7"
A panther needs 30-35 µW/cm² peak when the bulb is fresh, and should be changed at 15-20 µW/cm².


Right now the hobby is experimenting with about 4x higher than this recommendation, AND not giving D3 supplements. The hobby has already had several cases of over supplementing trying to go for the 3.0 UVI (120µW/cm²) and keeping the old D3 supplement schedule.

That's why supplemental D3 is only advised to use once a week?
(With the HO T5)

 

[GoodKarma19]

That's why supplemental D3 is only advised to use once a week?
(With the HO T5)

Once every 2 weeks* - T5HO are quite powerful, and you risk overdosing.

 

[ZEROPILOT]

Once every 2 weeks* - T5HO are quite powerful, and you risk overdosing.

Ok
I've been using D3 once a week with my T8s.
I'll back off once I get my T5s this week.
Thanks

 

[ZEROPILOT]

A appreciate all of the help with my new lighting.
I mostly keep Redfoot tortoises and they're all about T8 5.0

 

[Decadancin]

BTW, Josh's Frogs has the Solarmeter with the pretty picture on it for the same price as the plain one...

 

[Ruthless]

Or you could score a deal like I did

https://www.chameleonforums.com/threads/deals-on-offerup.171757/(y)

 

[ZEROPILOT]

Update:
I called LLL REPTILES on Wednesday to confirm my internet order since I had not gotten an Emailed confirmation.
I was told that my order "Would definitely be going out today".
Well, today, three days later, I got an Email telling me that the T5 hoods are not available. They're backordered and might be back in stock in 2 more weeks. Making the soonest I can get them another 3 weeks....
I canceled the order.
This was most unprofessional. And it has been a large setback.
I'm going to get some off of Ebay.

 

[ZEROPILOT]

Big Al's has them in stock for $1 more....And apparently they're in stock.

 

[CamoChameleonsHuman]

Update:
I called LLL REPTILES on Wednesday to confirm my internet order since I had not gotten an Emailed confirmation.
I was told that my order "Would definitely be going out today".
Well, today, three days later, I got an Email telling me that the T5 hoods are not available. They're backordered and might be back in stock in 2 more weeks. Making the soonest I can get them another 3 weeks....
I canceled the order.
This was most unprofessional. And it has been a large setback.
I'm going to get some off of Ebay.

Triple L or light your reptiles?

 

[ZEROPILOT]

Triple L or light your reptiles?

LLL REPTILES