Is my veiled chameleon dying?

Haleyr220

Haleyr220

Member
To start, he is eating. His color is still bright green.
HOWEVER, about a week ago, I noticed he was sleeping a lot more than normal. It would be about 12-14 hours every day.
This morning, he's awake and up at the top but he looked at first like he was basking in the light at the top. I noticed his eyes shut like he's really just enjoying it.
BUT then, with his eyes closed he started like loosing grip or strength, not falling but loosing himself. His head dropped and his eye hit a stick and now that eye looks like its sticking out further than the other and he won't open it, but the other eye is open. He keeps loosing his grip and turning his head really weirdly and rubbing it against the leaves. He is stretching up on his back legs and breathing weirdly to where he is inhaling that I can see his ribcage outline. Again, he is still eating and still green. He even let me come near him without hissing at me. I have a video but I can't get it uploaded.
A lot of clinics can't even see him for a couple of days. One can see him tomorrow, but won't tell me any advice or hear what's happening as a description, they only want my deposit, no symptoms no nothing and no advice for him for me until the appointment.
This pictures is the one with the eye he won't open. I think there is some white stuff around that side of his nose too that isn't on the other... He's about 7 months old. He seemed just fine until just today. He's not lying around the bottom, he is at the top still.
 

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this looks like a respiratory infection to me. chameleons lift their nose up to try and make it easier to breathe when this occurs. the stuff you see around the nose is also a sign of this infection.

since the infection seems to be in its advanced stages, i would suggest getting your little guy an appointment and some medications
 
kinyonga said:
In your other thread, you were asked to answer the husbandry questions...you never replied....it might help us help you if we know how your keeping your chameleon.

Make sure the vet you're going to take him to is a good chameleon vet.
Click to expand...
He is kept in a zoomed cage, including the double lights it comes with, plus I added a heat lamp that stays on 24/7 but has no actual light.
I'm not sure, there are only a handful around and most of them are booked out.
 
Haleyr220 said:
He is kept in a zoomed cage, including the double lights it comes with, plus I added a heat lamp that stays on 24/7 but has no actual light.
I'm not sure, there are only a handful around and most of them are booked out.
Click to expand...
Sadly both those lights are wrong, and you most likely don't have the temps where a heat source is needed at night. If you could fill out the husbandry form in as much detail as possible, including pics of his entire cage, then copy and paste it on here, it's be much appreciated! One possible issue with his eyes could be the lights you're using
 
ERKleRose said:
Sadly both those lights are wrong, and you most likely don't have the temps where a heat source is needed at night. If you could fill out the husbandry form in as much detail as possible, including pics of his entire cage, then copy and paste it on here, it's be much appreciated! One possible issue with his eyes could be the lights you're using
Click to expand...
Where do I find that forum again?
 
Here you go!

Here is some recommended information to include when asking for help in the health clinic forum. By providing this information you will receive more accurate and beneficial responses. It might not be necessary to answer all these questions, but the more you provide the better. Please remember that even the most knowledgeable person can only guess at what your problem may be. Only an experienced reptile veterinarian who can directly examine your animal can give a true diagnosis of your chameleon's health.


Chameleon Info:
  • Your Chameleon - The species, sex, and age of your chameleon. How long has it been in your care?
  • Handling - How often do you handle your chameleon?
  • Feeding - What are you feeding your cham? What amount? What is the schedule? How are you gut-loading your feeders?
  • Supplements - What brand and type of calcium and vitamin products are you dusting your feeders with and what is the schedule?
  • Watering - What kind of watering technique do you use? How often and how long to you mist? Do you see your chameleon drinking?
  • Fecal Description - Briefly note colors and consistency from recent droppings. Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites?
  • History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you.

Cage Info:
  • Cage Type - Describe your cage (Glass, Screen, Combo?) What are the dimensions?
  • Lighting - What brand, model, and types of lighting are you using? What is your daily lighting schedule?
  • Temperature - What temp range have you created (cage floor to basking spot)? Lowest overnight temp? How do you measure these temps?
  • Humidity - What are your humidity levels? How are you creating and maintaining these levels? What do you use to measure humidity?
  • Plants - Are you using live plants? If so, what kind?
  • Placement - Where is your cage located? Is it near any fans, air vents, or high traffic areas? At what height is the top of the cage relative to your room floor?
  • Location - Where are you geographically located?

Current Problem - The current problem you are concerned about.

--------------

Please Note:
  1. The more details you provide the better and more accurate help you will receive.
  2. Photos can be very helpful.
 
Chameleon Info:
  • Your Chameleon - Veiled Chameleon, sex unknown, roughly 7 months
  • Handling - I generally leave him alone, but once a day for a week I tried sticking my hand in there to try to get him used to me so I can take him out when needed (cage cleaning)
  • Feeding - Crickets and mealworms/waxworms? 6-8 crickets in the morning, then another 6-8 in the evening. I usually give him the worms every 3-4 days.
  • Supplements - I have this calcium powder that's a two in one, I'm unsure at this time what it is. I was told to dust them every couple of days, and also told to do it for every feeding. Google also gave both as an answer. Unsure of what is correct.
  • Watering - I use purified bottled water. I have a hand mister. I mist 3x a day sometimes 4-5. I mist for about a minute each time.
  • Fecal Description - They look like pellets, solid, and dark
  • History - None given.

Cage Info:
  • Cage Type - Screen cage, zoomed from the pet store.
  • Lighting - The zoomed came with a double light, I keep that on all day and turn it off at night, but I have a heat lamp that (no light) that stays on 24/7
  • Temperature - I have a temp at the top that read roughly 75 degrees. I have never checked the bottom temp. I use the temp that came with the zoomed cage
  • Humidity - I don't check the humidity levels, any recommendations on one and where to buy. I use a handpump mister.
  • Plants - Using the store bought (not real) plants
  • Placement - The cage is placed in our least active room, my bedroom. It's in a corner diagonal from our window. We have giant windows with tons of natural lighting that comes through. He is on a nightstand, and we have tall ceilings 9', he stands mid way, so the top of the cage is about at my height, maybe more and I'm 5'.
  • Location - United States
 
Okay, my responses will be in red


Chameleon Info:
  • Your Chameleon - Veiled Chameleon, sex unknown, roughly 7 months Does your cham have tarsal spurs?
  • Handling - I generally leave him alone, but once a day for a week I tried sticking my hand in there to try to get him used to me so I can take him out when needed (cage cleaning)
  • Feeding - Crickets and mealworms/waxworms? 6-8 crickets in the morning, then another 6-8 in the evening. I usually give him the worms every 3-4 days. Cut down to feeding that amount just once daily, in the morning. Waxworms and mealworms should only be used as treats. What do you gutload with? I've attached both feeder and gutload sheets in your previous thread
  • Supplements - I have this calcium powder that's a two in one, I'm unsure at this time what it is. I was told to dust them every couple of days, and also told to do it for every feeding. Google also gave both as an answer. Unsure of what is correct. What's the exact name of the supplement? What did you do with the supplements that came with the Zoo Med Chameleon Kit?
  • Watering - I use purified bottled water. I have a hand mister. I mist 3x a day sometimes 4-5. I mist for about a minute each time. Your mistings should be at least 2-5 minutes long
  • Fecal Description - They look like pellets, solid, and dark Is there a white part?
  • History - None given.

Cage Info:
  • Cage Type - Screen cage, zoomed from the pet store.  That size from Zoo Med's Chameleon Kit is too small. You'll need a new cage, minimum size 2'x 2'x4' tall, but preferably (and recommended) 4'x2'x4' tall or bigger. The moss vines and fake plants need to go ASAP, as they are dangerous!
  • Lighting - The zoomed came with a double light, I keep that on all day and turn it off at night, but I have a heat lamp that (no light) that stays on 24/7 Both need to be replaced ASAP! You'll need to get a T5 HO fixture (at minimum at least as long as the length of the new cage you'll be buying) with either a T5 HO Arcadia 6% (replace yearly) or T5 HO Zoo Med ReptiSun 5.0 (replace every 6 months, some bulbs are too strong at first and need to run until safe levels are being projected) of the same size as the fixture. If you can afford it, get a Solarmeter 6.5 to check UVI levels, it's literally a life-saver and gives accurate readings instead of guessing (it'll also tell you when to actually replace your UVB bulbs, tell you where to place your basking branch, and lets you measure outside UVI levels, plus more!)! With the T5 HO bulb and fixture, your basking branch should be 8-9" away from the UVB bulb, if you aren't using a Solarmeter 6.5. For your heat bulb, you'll need to get a plain white light incandescent bulb, either from the hardware store, pet store, or online, as long as it is a plain white light incandescent bulb, no intense heat bulbs or anything like that. Start with a smaller wattage and work your way up until you get the proper temps
  • Temperature - I have a temp at the top that read roughly 75 degrees. I have never checked the bottom temp. I use the temp that came with the zoomed cage The gauges that came with the Chameleon Kit are no good. For measuring basking temps, you'll need a digital thermometer with a probe, with the probe placed where the top of your chameleon's back is when it's on it's basking branch. The heat bulb should be at least 10" away or longer to prevent burns. Depending on sex, it should be 78-80°F for a female or 80-85°F for a male. Get at least 2, though I use 3, digital thermometer-hygrometer combos (with or without probes) to place near the top and bottom of your cage (one in the middle of you get 3) to measure ambient and nighttime temps and humidity levels. Your nighttime temps should be under 70°F, hopefully at/under 65°F, but lower at 60°F at, or lower, is best
  • Humidity - I don't check the humidity levels, any recommendations on one and where to buy. I use a handpump mister. Humidity levels are very important to know! Get the digital gauges I said above
  • Plants - Using the store bought (not real) plants Veileds need veiled-tested chameleon safe plants only in their cage, as fake plants are an impaction risk that can lead to death since veileds will eat any plant, fake or not. I attached two plant charts and a plant link in your previous thread, as well!
  • Placement - The cage is placed in our least active room, my bedroom. It's in a corner diagonal from our window. We have giant windows with tons of natural lighting that comes through. He is on a nightstand, and we have tall ceilings 9', he stands mid way, so the top of the cage is about at my height, maybe more and I'm 5'.
  • Location - United States  Where are you in the US? We can help you find an exotics vet with reputable chameleon experience if you want, as well as maybe a 24 hour exotics emergency hospital!
In your previous thread, I also listed lots of other helpful links. Make sure to read through the entirety of The Chameleon Academy's modules and veiled care sheet, as that is the most accurate and up-to-date cham info available! I also linked great cage set-up links there, too!
 
ERKleRose said:
Okay, my responses will be in red


Chameleon Info:
  • Your Chameleon - Veiled Chameleon, sex unknown, roughly 7 months Does your cham have tarsal spurs?
  • Handling - I generally leave him alone, but once a day for a week I tried sticking my hand in there to try to get him used to me so I can take him out when needed (cage cleaning)
  • Feeding - Crickets and mealworms/waxworms? 6-8 crickets in the morning, then another 6-8 in the evening. I usually give him the worms every 3-4 days. Cut down to feeding that amount just once daily, in the morning. Waxworms and mealworms should only be used as treats. What do you gutload with? I've attached both feeder and gutload sheets in your previous thread
  • Supplements - I have this calcium powder that's a two in one, I'm unsure at this time what it is. I was told to dust them every couple of days, and also told to do it for every feeding. Google also gave both as an answer. Unsure of what is correct. What's the exact name of the supplement? What did you do with the supplements that came with the Zoo Med Chameleon Kit?
  • Watering - I use purified bottled water. I have a hand mister. I mist 3x a day sometimes 4-5. I mist for about a minute each time. Your mistings should be at least 2-5 minutes long
  • Fecal Description - They look like pellets, solid, and dark Is there a white part?
  • History - None given.

Cage Info:
  • Cage Type - Screen cage, zoomed from the pet store.  That size from Zoo Med's Chameleon Kit is too small. You'll need a new cage, minimum size 2'x 2'x4' tall, but preferably (and recommended) 4'x2'x4' tall or bigger. The moss vines and fake plants need to go ASAP, as they are dangerous!
  • Lighting - The zoomed came with a double light, I keep that on all day and turn it off at night, but I have a heat lamp that (no light) that stays on 24/7 Both need to be replaced ASAP! You'll need to get a T5 HO fixture (at minimum at least as long as the length of the new cage you'll be buying) with either a T5 HO Arcadia 6% (replace yearly) or T5 HO Zoo Med ReptiSun 5.0 (replace every 6 months, some bulbs are too strong at first and need to run until safe levels are being projected) of the same size as the fixture. If you can afford it, get a Solarmeter 6.5 to check UVI levels, it's literally a life-saver and gives accurate readings instead of guessing (it'll also tell you when to actually replace your UVB bulbs, tell you where to place your basking branch, and lets you measure outside UVI levels, plus more!)! With the T5 HO bulb and fixture, your basking branch should be 8-9" away from the UVB bulb, if you aren't using a Solarmeter 6.5. For your heat bulb, you'll need to get a plain white light incandescent bulb, either from the hardware store, pet store, or online, as long as it is a plain white light incandescent bulb, no intense heat bulbs or anything like that. Start with a smaller wattage and work your way up until you get the proper temps
  • Temperature - I have a temp at the top that read roughly 75 degrees. I have never checked the bottom temp. I use the temp that came with the zoomed cage The gauges that came with the Chameleon Kit are no good. For measuring basking temps, you'll need a digital thermometer with a probe, with the probe placed where the top of your chameleon's back is when it's on it's basking branch. The heat bulb should be at least 10" away or longer to prevent burns. Depending on sex, it should be 78-80°F for a female or 80-85°F for a male. Get at least 2, though I use 3, digital thermometer-hygrometer combos (with or without probes) to place near the top and bottom of your cage (one in the middle of you get 3) to measure ambient and nighttime temps and humidity levels. Your nighttime temps should be under 70°F, hopefully at/under 65°F, but lower at 60°F at, or lower, is best
  • Humidity - I don't check the humidity levels, any recommendations on one and where to buy. I use a handpump mister. Humidity levels are very important to know! Get the digital gauges I said above
  • Plants - Using the store bought (not real) plants Veileds need veiled-tested chameleon safe plants only in their cage, as fake plants are an impaction risk that can lead to death since veileds will eat any plant, fake or not. I attached two plant charts and a plant link in your previous thread, as well!
  • Placement - The cage is placed in our least active room, my bedroom. It's in a corner diagonal from our window. We have giant windows with tons of natural lighting that comes through. He is on a nightstand, and we have tall ceilings 9', he stands mid way, so the top of the cage is about at my height, maybe more and I'm 5'.
  • Location - United States  Where are you in the US? We can help you find an exotics vet with reputable chameleon experience if you want, as well as maybe a 24 hour exotics emergency hospital!
In your previous thread, I also listed lots of other helpful links. Make sure to read through the entirety of The Chameleon Academy's modules and veiled care sheet, as that is the most accurate and up-to-date cham info available! I also linked great cage set-up links there, too!
Click to expand...
I don't even know where to find all of that stuff to buy in person today. It just sucks that I trusted the place that sold everything to me. I spent $500 and see that everything I bought is pretty much not good for him. It seems I'm taking my chameleon in to get better to bring him back home that isn't suitable for him.
 
Haleyr220 said:
I don't even know where to find all of that stuff to buy in person today. It just sucks that I trusted the place that sold everything to me. I spent $500 and see that everything I bought is pretty much not good for him. It seems I'm taking my chameleon in to get better to bring him back home that isn't suitable for him.
Click to expand...
Sadly that was the case for a lot of members here when they first started out. But as long as you're willing to, and do, improve your husbandry, you're already a lot better! Let us know if want links, have any questions, etc!
 
Haleyr220 said:
I don't even know where to find all of that stuff to buy in person today. It just sucks that I trusted the place that sold everything to me. I spent $500 and see that everything I bought is pretty much not good for him. It seems I'm taking my chameleon in to get better to bring him back home that isn't suitable for him.
Click to expand...
Usually I amazon my lights and enclosures, but now I'm starting to just support the LEAP brand(sadly their enclosure only support smaller species atm). Their equipments are pretty nice imo. And I totally understand where you are coming from. I was in the same boat when I first started to chameleon keeping 5 years ago. There is a lot to learn in this hobby, all we can really do is learn from our mistakes and do a lot of studying. Luckily I catch my mistakes and fix it before it was too late, and I still have my 1st chameleon with me till today all nice and healthy. It also gets better when you started to go into bioactive! But yeah I would suggest listen to chameleon academy podcast, or youtubers Neptune the chameleon is a good one too, and of course the chameleon forums, I just have then in the background when I'm doing chores or building a new enclosure. There is always new things to learn in this hobby, and the community is great imo.
 
Sad but true, the pet store employees just try to get you to buy everything because they don't know what is really needed. They told me that I had to have a fountain and a heating rock. Also the chameleon kits are all wrong. They need knowledgeable people who can really help people. You have come to the right place for answers, the guys and gals here really know their stuff and have helped me alot to many to list all there names. If you can watch Neptune the chameleon on Utube by @Gingero
 
Necessity’s
Cage
Humidifier
UVB Light
Heat light dome
Heat bulb
Thermometer

Non necessity’s
Backround
Mister

Even though you don’t need an automatic mister you still need to mist with a spray bottle before you turn the lights on and then after you turn them off mist for 2-4 minutes

If you don’t have the money for the thermometer you can get a cheaper one at petsmart the digital ones are more accurate

You can also get a heat light dome and bulb at pets smart I recommend 60 to 75 watt and make sure the lil guy can’t get within about 6 in of the light or he will burn

You can get vines and stuff at pets smart for decor and sticks at hobby lobby if needed I got all my plants at home depot or lowes some good plants are pothos (devils ivy) or dwarf umbrella plants make sure it’s the dwarf one though because the regular one is toxic ficus Benjamina are great if you don’t want to bother with the umbrella plant

His urate should be white if it’s got orange in it try feeding him some horn worms because they are hydrating not the super big ones though

Also if there are spurs in his hind legs he’s a male if it’s a female it’ll need a thing to lay it’s eggs in when the time comes

Also there eyes are super fragile so it could be irritated that’s why he’s keeping it closed my lil guy was super sick when I got him and I’ve been nursing him back to health so If you have any questions or want to talk please let me know!! Also I know it’s a lot of work and they aren’t easy pets but they really are worth it

2DD2D05B-47D4-497C-8F78-6984F2F6B59D.jpeg
AE4915A8-3FE9-413D-8C38-593919BDFCAF.jpeg
7FE5A71D-F3A0-48DF-BCDA-B3FE6A8DDE76.jpeg
 
Great info! Just a few corrections so you can help out better! You're doing awesome!
Tera_R said:
make sure the lil guy can’t get within about 6 in of the light or he will burn
Click to expand...
That is too close, 10-12" away is best
Tera_R said:
You can get vines and stuff at pets smart for decor and sticks at hobby lobby if needed
Click to expand...
Don't buy decor items that aren't meant to be used for reptiles, things from Hobby Lobby can have coating or chemicals on them. Real, non-toxic, and non-sap producing woods can be used for branches, and only live, veiled-tested chameleon safe plants for veileds. It's preferred to have only live plants for all species, but reptile-branded fake plants meant to be used only for reptiles should be the only ones used in a cage

Those are great links! The only other thing is that the thermometer you linked isn't needed, as it's the wrong type. Infrared temperature guns measure surface temp, while we need air temps to monitor our chams' cage. Digital thermometers with or without probes or digital hygrometer-thermometer combos are best to use. You can find them in the weather section of Home Depot, Walmart, etc, and online!
 
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