is she a healthy color
- Thread starter calliechem
- Start date
brownie64
Avid Member
She looks a little pale, and dark if she is staying like this 90% of the time are you sure her temps are right she might be trying to heat up. They should be about 80-85 degrease for a girl her size. Or she could just be stressed about something could we see a pic of your enclosure.
calliechem
New Member
calliechem
New Member
she is a female veild , how should I go about that? like is she healthy , it's just odd? or do I need to do something
brownie64
Avid Member
Well LOL. I guess by pale I mint she isn't her normal green color she should be.
brownie64
Avid Member
Is she in a glass enclosure? If so you got to get some air circulating in there if it don't have the lower exhaust vents. She needs way more foliage so she can feel more secure. That enclosure looks quite small from the pic so you'll probably need to get her a larger one after she reaches about 8 months old. Could you fill out the ask for help form? That's way better than us trying to guess what's the issue's that could be going on. That way we can better help you by giving you friendly advice. Here is the link https://www.chameleonforums.com/threads/how-to-ask-for-help.66/
brownie64
Avid Member
I would agree except I don't think she would be this way 90% of the time do you?Thats part of her color change.thats why they are"chameleon" not us the human,unless we got suntan and we turn little darker,versus the chameleon reflects their skin cell pigment on its own
Im not too sure cause the mother nature is very unpredictable,us human can have a albino baby in just one pregnancy,chameleon has more eggs and their whole pigment sturcture are bit more complex seeing under the human eyes,i guess that 90percent will be close to none,if we can figure out how the pigment reflected under the different light at certain time,you probably are correct
calliechem
New Member
•my chameleon- veiled , female , not sure of the age. I've had her for one week.
•handling- a few times throughout the day.
•feeding- my local pet store told me 12-18 crickets a week, however being on this cite has made me question that.
•supplements- I have not purchased any
•watering- I mist 3 times a day, and I have a drip system in the terrarium
•fecal description- black & white. has not been tested for parasites
•history- I've only had pascal for a week
cage info-
•cage type- I'm not sure of the dimensions , but it's glass with a screen top. it's big for her right now, and I'm working on getting a bigger one for her as she grows.
•lighting- it's a day light, that's all I know. my lighting schedule is 6 am wake up time, and I turn the light off around 10:30.
•temperature- stays around 82°F during the day, at night gets about 60° at the lowest
•humidity- I need help with this one. I don't know how to measure it. I've been using the Zilla tropical mist humidifying spray 2 times a day.
plants, I've got 2 fake plants currently, but I'm willing to buy real if that would help.
•placement- the terrarium is located on my nightstand right now. not directly under my fan, but the fan can reach it. I have a humidifier next to my bed as well.
•location- we live in Indiana
current problem- pascal has been a pale / beige color for about 4 days now. and I'm concerned.
calliechem
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brownie64
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First thing I would do is back off on the handling unless your sure she is tolerating it.
You will need to get the supplements ASAP you will need calcium with d3 to be given twice a month. you will need a multivitamin to be given twice each month, and you will need a calcium without d3 to be given at every other feeding.
You will need to get a UVB linier bulb start with a 5.0 then I would go to a 10,0 after this one wears out at about 6 months.
She should be eating 10-13 crickets at her age. You should gut load the crickets with dandelion green, mustard greens, turnip greens, kale, butternut squash, bee pollen, and various fruits.
You can get a digital hydrometer to check your humidity, it should be about 45-50% at the low side, and about 70% on the high side with a total drying out inbetween misting's. you don't need that humidifying spray the mistings should suffice especially if you plant real plants because they will help with regulating the humidity.
The only other thing I can think of right off hand when she gets old enough to eat bigger pray you'll will want to mix things up with Dubai, super worms. horn worms silk worm, fenix worms, mantis, locus. You don't need that water dish either. Question did you go to pet smart? It looks like just the stuff they would tell you to get.
You will need to get the supplements ASAP you will need calcium with d3 to be given twice a month. you will need a multivitamin to be given twice each month, and you will need a calcium without d3 to be given at every other feeding.
You will need to get a UVB linier bulb start with a 5.0 then I would go to a 10,0 after this one wears out at about 6 months.
She should be eating 10-13 crickets at her age. You should gut load the crickets with dandelion green, mustard greens, turnip greens, kale, butternut squash, bee pollen, and various fruits.
You can get a digital hydrometer to check your humidity, it should be about 45-50% at the low side, and about 70% on the high side with a total drying out inbetween misting's. you don't need that humidifying spray the mistings should suffice especially if you plant real plants because they will help with regulating the humidity.
The only other thing I can think of right off hand when she gets old enough to eat bigger pray you'll will want to mix things up with Dubai, super worms. horn worms silk worm, fenix worms, mantis, locus. You don't need that water dish either. Question did you go to pet smart? It looks like just the stuff they would tell you to get.
More like a another pet dumb dumb store to me
I would think her being that pale would be an indication of overheating but you said the cage temperature is 82 so that doesn't make sense.
Regarding your cage setup...i would remove the water dish and provide water by misting and the use of a dripper. The dripper can be as simple as a deli cup with a small hole in the bottom of it so that it drips at the rate of one or two drips per second.
I would also recommend taking out the substrate and add an opaque container at least 12 " deep by 12 " by 8 " full of moistened washed playsand in her cage so she has a place to dig to show you when she's ready to lay eggs. Veileds can produce eggs without having mated.
I would also add some more greenery too.
You need a UVB light. The most often recommended bulb is the reptisun 5.0 long linear tube light. Exposure to UVB allows them to produce D3 so that they can use the calcium in their systems.
Appropriate temperatures allow for proper digestion and thus play a part in nutrient absorption.
Since most feeder insects have a poor ratio of calcium to phosphorous its important to dust the insects with a phosphorous - free calcium powder at most feedings just before you feed them to the chameleon.
It's recommended that you dust twice a month with a phosphorous - free calcium / D3 powder to ensure that the chameleon gets some D3 without overdosing it and leaving the chameleon to produce the rest of the D3 from its exposure to the UVB light.
It's also recommended that you dust twice a month with a vitamin powder that contains a beta carotene ( prOformed ) source of vitamin A. PrOformed sources of vitamin A cannot build up in the system and lead to overdoses like prEformed sources can and will leave it up to you to decide whether the chameleon needs prEformed or not.
It's important to feed / gutload the insects with a wide assortment of greens such as collards, escarole, endive, dandelion greens, kale, etc and veggies such as carrots, sweet red pepper, squash, zucchini, sweet potato, etc.
Hope this helps.
Regarding your cage setup...i would remove the water dish and provide water by misting and the use of a dripper. The dripper can be as simple as a deli cup with a small hole in the bottom of it so that it drips at the rate of one or two drips per second.
I would also recommend taking out the substrate and add an opaque container at least 12 " deep by 12 " by 8 " full of moistened washed playsand in her cage so she has a place to dig to show you when she's ready to lay eggs. Veileds can produce eggs without having mated.
I would also add some more greenery too.
You need a UVB light. The most often recommended bulb is the reptisun 5.0 long linear tube light. Exposure to UVB allows them to produce D3 so that they can use the calcium in their systems.
Appropriate temperatures allow for proper digestion and thus play a part in nutrient absorption.
Since most feeder insects have a poor ratio of calcium to phosphorous its important to dust the insects with a phosphorous - free calcium powder at most feedings just before you feed them to the chameleon.
It's recommended that you dust twice a month with a phosphorous - free calcium / D3 powder to ensure that the chameleon gets some D3 without overdosing it and leaving the chameleon to produce the rest of the D3 from its exposure to the UVB light.
It's also recommended that you dust twice a month with a vitamin powder that contains a beta carotene ( prOformed ) source of vitamin A. PrOformed sources of vitamin A cannot build up in the system and lead to overdoses like prEformed sources can and will leave it up to you to decide whether the chameleon needs prEformed or not.
It's important to feed / gutload the insects with a wide assortment of greens such as collards, escarole, endive, dandelion greens, kale, etc and veggies such as carrots, sweet red pepper, squash, zucchini, sweet potato, etc.
Hope this helps.
Thats exactly what I said to another new member
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