Jemen Cham male or Female
- Thread starter ChrisP79
- Start date
regal81455
Established Member
Need to see the back of his back feet.
regal81455
Established Member
Looking for little nubs ( tarsals ) in the middle of the back of his feet. Kinda hard to tell in that pic.
MissSkittles
Chameleon Enthusiast
I see no sign of any tarsal spurs, so you have a little girl. This is what my boy looked like at 4 months…he had developed his stripes and you can see how prominent the tarsal spur is (Which is present from hatching). If you keep your little girl, it’s essential to have her care as perfect as possible to prevent any egg producing/laying problems. We can definitely help if you need.
Sherbertsmysunshine
Chameleon Enthusiast
What a pretty little lady!
If you need any help with her or husbandry, we are happy to help!
If you need any help with her or husbandry, we are happy to help!
Sherbertsmysunshine
Chameleon Enthusiast
I'm know that you can't breed a species with a different species. Like a panther with veiled.So what do I take for the ground so she can dig ?
And a maybe very dumb question but can you breed panther with Jemen ?
I assume you mean a laying bin. I think its 50% play sand to 50% soil, make sure it's not soaked with water but damp enough to make a 'tunnel' @MissSkittles knows more about that
MissSkittles
Chameleon Enthusiast
I’ll go thru all of the girl stuff for you in a little while. I will warn you that I do talk a lot. I’ll try to keep it brief though.
I’ll try to keep it brief though.
MissSkittles
Chameleon Enthusiast
Right now your little girl looks to be at or close to the age that she can reach sexual maturity. You’ll know when this happens as she’ll develop her beautiful colors of teal and orange/mustard and patterns. Along with this she will become restless and may wander aimlessly thru her entire enclosure. Basically she’s all prettied up and looking for a handsome boy to make eggs with. Anywhere from a few weeks after the restlessness stops, she can be ready to lay her eggs. It’s best to prepare the lay bin and make it a permanent part of her enclosure from when she develops her colors to avoid any stress or having to guess. I’ve found the girls prefer larger bins that are at least 12” long and wide. They can be very particular about the bin. Drill a few tiny drainage holes in the bottom and fill it to about 5-6” with play sand that is kept moist enough to form a tunnel without collapse. When she needs it, it’s there.
Once she has started digging, it’s important she doesn’t see anyone or have any disturbances. It’s best to cover the bottom half of the enclosure with a light sheet or something else that won’t block ventilation. Don’t worry about feeding and keep her lighting on the same schedule. Some may dig some test holes. Some may sleep in their tunnel at night. The whole process from start to end can take a couple of days. You’ll know she’s done when all her holes have been fully covered and she’s in her usual basking spot, looking much thinner.
Feed and hydrate her well for the next couple of days and then start her on a reduced diet of 3-4 feeders, 3 days a week (plus occasional treats) and keep her basking temp no hotter than 80F. Doing this will help reduce not only the number of eggs she produces in each clutch, but the frequency in which she produces and lays eggs. For some, they can even stop producing eggs altogether. My veiled girls continued their obvious receptive periods for about a year and gradually they either stopped or became too subtle to notice. One girl stopped laying. The other was laying once a year, but now is going on two years without laying. My panther girl has never laid any eggs.
The biggest reasons for reducing the egg production is that the more eggs they lay per clutch, the higher their risks for complications like egg binding. Plus, producing and laying eggs shortens their lives naturally from the males. The number of eggs produced is directly linked with how much they eat.
Since they can become mature at such a young age, it’s difficult to know when to start them on the reduced diet. We don’t want to restrict their nutrition that is needed for growth, but we also don’t want them to have a first clutch of 60+ eggs. I was horribly ignorant with my girl and grossly overfed her until I found the forum and learned better and it was just in time. As long as you aren’t feeding a 5-6 month old girl more than 10+ feeders daily, it should be ok. If she hasn’t developed her colors, around 6- 7 months, ease her into about the 4 feeders every other day and keep reducing until she’s at the 3-4 feeders 3 days a week by the time she’s about 10 months old.
Once she has started digging, it’s important she doesn’t see anyone or have any disturbances. It’s best to cover the bottom half of the enclosure with a light sheet or something else that won’t block ventilation. Don’t worry about feeding and keep her lighting on the same schedule. Some may dig some test holes. Some may sleep in their tunnel at night. The whole process from start to end can take a couple of days. You’ll know she’s done when all her holes have been fully covered and she’s in her usual basking spot, looking much thinner.
Feed and hydrate her well for the next couple of days and then start her on a reduced diet of 3-4 feeders, 3 days a week (plus occasional treats) and keep her basking temp no hotter than 80F. Doing this will help reduce not only the number of eggs she produces in each clutch, but the frequency in which she produces and lays eggs. For some, they can even stop producing eggs altogether. My veiled girls continued their obvious receptive periods for about a year and gradually they either stopped or became too subtle to notice. One girl stopped laying. The other was laying once a year, but now is going on two years without laying. My panther girl has never laid any eggs.
The biggest reasons for reducing the egg production is that the more eggs they lay per clutch, the higher their risks for complications like egg binding. Plus, producing and laying eggs shortens their lives naturally from the males. The number of eggs produced is directly linked with how much they eat.
Since they can become mature at such a young age, it’s difficult to know when to start them on the reduced diet. We don’t want to restrict their nutrition that is needed for growth, but we also don’t want them to have a first clutch of 60+ eggs. I was horribly ignorant with my girl and grossly overfed her until I found the forum and learned better and it was just in time. As long as you aren’t feeding a 5-6 month old girl more than 10+ feeders daily, it should be ok. If she hasn’t developed her colors, around 6- 7 months, ease her into about the 4 feeders every other day and keep reducing until she’s at the 3-4 feeders 3 days a week by the time she’s about 10 months old.
MissSkittles
Chameleon Enthusiast
Now to cover husbandry and I promise this will be much shorter. It’s essential to have everything as perfect as possible. Your uvb should be a linear T5HO with either a 5.0 or 6% uvb bulb and changed regularly. Supplements should be a phosphorus-free calcium without D3 lightly dusted on every feeding. One feeding every week you want to alternate between using a good multivitamin and a calcium with D3 OR use a combo product like Reptivite with D3 or Repashy calcium plus LoD one feeding every other week. If nothing else is perfect, these are the things that need to be. For the rest and then some, check out either https://chameleonacademy.com/chameleon-basics/ or https://www.neptunethechameleon.com/ Both of these go over current and correct husbandry. Of course, we are always here to answer questions, help with whatever and love sharing pics and info about our beautiful chameleons. 
It’s essential to have everything as perfect as possible. Your uvb should be a linear T5HO with either a 5.0 or 6% uvb bulb and changed regularly. Supplements should be a phosphorus-free calcium without D3 lightly dusted on every feeding. One feeding every week you want to alternate between using a good multivitamin and a calcium with D3 OR use a combo product like Reptivite with D3 or Repashy calcium plus LoD one feeding every other week. If nothing else is perfect, these are the things that need to be. For the rest and then some, check out either https://chameleonacademy.com/chameleon-basics/ or https://www.neptunethechameleon.com/ Both of these go over current and correct husbandry. Of course, we are always here to answer questions, help with whatever and love sharing pics and info about our beautiful chameleons. 
ChrisP79
New Member
MissSkittles
Chameleon Enthusiast
Wow! Those enclosures are either huge or you have them in a doll house! I always love when a cham has more space. I’m so glad that you already know your husbandry. Your panther is very handsome btw. 
BleuSaphir
Chameleon Enthusiast
Your setup is spacious!
elizaann2
Chameleon Enthusiast
Your enclosures are amazing!!!!Thank you so much!
That was the best info I’ve ever read.
I will print that out
I’m already familiar with the husbandry , I have a 1 Year old Nosy Be Panter Cham. And since a week this little girl
Jake_Mellor23
New Member
coolThey r huge, I used the doors from a full size shower for my ground plan
