Just took 4 month old veiled to the vet they gave vitamin a and d injection now it wont eat and is lathargic

Kit came with trial size things and yes dusting with both and all the pet stores I've been to told me that was the vet to go to
 
Baby Dinosaur said:
Kit came with trial size things and yes dusting with both and all the pet stores I've been to told me that was the vet to go to
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I'll let @Beman or @MissSkittles comment on the supplement schedule here... they do a good job of explaining.

Was it a big box/ chain pet store that referred you to this vet? Good chameleon vets are hard to come by and sometimes require driving quite a distance.
 
Baby Dinosaur said:
I figured that would be a good starter cage
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The enclosure itself is ok for a very small/baby chameleon, but they very quickly outgrow it. This is what you’ll be needing as she grows. https://www.diycages.com/collection...ducts/sc4-48x24x24-jumbo-vertical-screen-cage Around the same price as a ReptiBreeze, but it’s a better quality. The Reptivite sample that comes with the chameleon kit does contain vitamin D3 and should be given only once every other week. The calcium without D3 should be used at every feeding. Your poor little one has been getting too much D3, which the vet just added to. :( The Reptivite with D3 is a good supplement to use as it is your multivitamin and D3 in one, so is an easier schedule. Usually when there are eye issues, a vitamin A deficiency is suspected. I’m guessing that is what the vet was thinking. Maybe???
Most chain pet stores and even some locally owned ones really have little idea of the proper keeping of chameleons. They’ll be more than happy to sell you whatever they have, regardless of whether it’s correct or not. As for the vet they sent you to, sadly some exotic vets aren’t experienced or very knowledgeable about chameleons.
Right now what I suggest you do is make the changes suggested already with the proper T5 5.0 uvb as priority. Very young chameleons are rather fragile so their husbandry needs to be correct in order for them to survive and thrive.
If you aren’t able to get the right uvb yet, you’ll have to place the bendy vine that came with the kit about below the uvb side of the dome light so that the back of your chameleon will be about 3-4” away. Bend the vine down and away from the heat side of the dome and replace the bulb with no higher than a 40w incandescent light bulb (not LED). This is just a very temporary solution until you can get the correct light. This may help you.
7016A779-0827-4D28-A092-B5D3B780C9E3.jpeg
 
Baby Dinosaur said:
Ok I just order the t5 ho fixture and t5 ho 5.0 bulb so after I get that I just to use a regular light incandescent bulb for the basking light
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Yes.

Baby Dinosaur said:
Also I called the vet about this now they wanna do a radiograph and a fecal test I think there just trying to get money and in the process hurting my pet
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I kinda doubt that.
https://www.avma.org/resources-tools/avma-policies/principles-veterinary-medical-ethics-avma

Neither of those tests should or would hurt your pet; they are non-invasive. A fecal exam is usually one of the first things done to discover or eliminate parasites being the problem. I am not a vet but I would think the radiograph (xray) wouldn't be suggested until after the results of the fecal were known and eliminated, however, if this vet is experienced with chameleons, s/he may base these decisions on past experience and likelihood. Doing both tests at the same time might actually save you some money, time, and stress on your pet by eliminating an additional office visit.

There are a couple of threads at the top of this forum section on how to find a herp vet near you. If this vet turns up in a search, you should be fine. If not, you may be able to find a herp vet near you that you like better, though depending on where you live, you may have to do some driving.
 
Baby Dinosaur said:
Baby Dinosaur said:
  • Your Chameleon - Veiled chameleon it's about 16 weeks not sure of sex and I've had it almost a month. Does it have Spurs? Look at the heels....
  • https://www.adcham.com/html/husbandry/glossary/tarsalspur.html
  • Handling - Not really ever just got it don't wanna stress it to much
  • Feeding - Crickets only won't eat anything else about 3 a day until recently just put them in another cage in it's cage and check on it was gut loading with vegetables now I gut load with a Mazuri high calcium gut loading diet it should be eating more than this. Are the crickets an apppropriate size? I feed/gutload crickets with dandelion greens, kale, collards, carrots, sweet red peppers, sweet potato, squash, zucchini, etc. Not a fan of commercial gutloads. (Ok will do there good size small crickets some are bigger than others).
  • Supplements - Zoo med repti calcium and zoo med reptivite every feeding You use both at every feeding? Do they have D3 in them? (The calcium 1 doesnt, not sure about the other and yes both every feeding.). IMHO you should be dusting at al feedings but once a week with the phos free calcium powder. On theremaining days alternate between a vitamin powder with no D3 and a phos free calcium/D3 powder. Dust lightly with the powders when you used them.
  • Watering - Homemade dripping system on top of cage drips down leaves when I mist it's about 20 seconds 4 or 5 times a day sometimes I see it drink IMHO you need to mist longer at each session. Do not spray directly on the face. (Ok how long should be good when I'm done humidity is at like 85 o yea I forgot the reptifogger I leave that on for a couple hours a day to.) Foggers are supposed to be used at night. Misting is intended to stimulate drinking....so long enough that the chameleon has time to decide to drink.
  • Fecal Description - white and creamy butt hasn't went in a couple days that I know of cause it's not eating
  • History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you. No just bought it Oct. 30th went to vet cause left eye was closed they rehydrated and a vitamin a and d injection and vomited 1 time after Strange to me that it vomited. Not sure why the vitamins were given. Is there D3 in your supplements? PrEformed Vitamin A? Is the poop brown? Is it producing poop with the white part when it's eating?( The poop was brown when she did poop but her eye was closed for 3 days that's why I took her) Not good hat the eye was shut for that long. Definitely needs to be looked into.
Cage Info:
  • Cage Type - Reptabreeze mesh 16×16×30
  • Lighting - What brand, model, and types of lighting are you using? What is your daily lighting schedule? Reptisun 13 watt 5.0 compact uvb and blue daylight bulb 60 watt in a zoo med combo porcelain fixture vet said I needed different uvb so now I added a exo terra 125 watt solar glow bulb in a single zoo med porcelain fixture. Turns on about 9 in the morning and off by 9 at night Your UVB lighting needs improvement. @Beman always explains it well. Your other lighting need only be a regular household incandescent bulb of a wattage that produces a basking temperature in the low 80'sF .( No lights on at night. The blue day bulb came with the setup I bought same with the compact uvb I only bought the solar glow to improve the uvb no lights at night at all shuts off at 9pm what's the best uvb I had a florescent reptisun 5.0 t8 but the vet said it didn't give enough uvb what do u recommend I use) Colored lights are not recommended. For years now I've used the long linear Reptisun 5.0 tube light for UVB. It's a good light.
  • Temperature - 75°f at bottom about 104°f at the very top heat in house at night is around 75°f I have a zoo med digital thermometer in the cage Way too hot in the basking area. (That's just the very top of the cage she doesn't go up there) How does she get close enough to the UVB to do her any good then?
  • Humidity - Low is about 45 high is about 85 I watch the hydrometer all day and when it's low I mist
  • Plants - Are you using live plants? If so, what kind? None yet have to buy some Live plants are needed. Veiled chameleons chew on plants and you don't want it to eat fake plants. Also no moss should be in the cagee IMHO. (Ok do you recommend any good plants I can use.). pothos, ficus, hibiscus. Anything nontoxic, well washed, both sides of the leaves.
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Well my t5 5.0 ho should be here soon but she's still not eating but I make sure there's gut loaded food in there just in case she wants to and she's sleeping a lot even during the day
 
Baby Dinosaur said:
Well my t5 5.0 ho should be here soon but she's still not eating but I make sure there's gut loaded food in there just in case she wants to and she's sleeping a lot even during the day
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She should not be sleeping during the day...you need to solve this problem or she will likely die. Sorry to tell you this ...but things like this can't wait long before the consequences will start to show.
 
Baby Dinosaur said:
Well my t5 5.0 ho should be here soon but she's still not eating but I make sure there's gut loaded food in there just in case she wants to and she's sleeping a lot even during the day
Click to expand...
You said you have no idea how to get her to stop sleeping sitting the day. Did you remove the colored lights and are you using only a regular incandescent bulb now? What's the basking temp now? The light changes might help...including thr UVB that you're waiting for.

Are you making sure the insects are of a size that will fit into her mouth easily?
 
Have you thought about taking your cham to a different vet for a second opinion? You've expressed that you don't trust your current vet's judgement.... just make sure whoever you take him to has experience with specifically chameleons and is knowledgeable if you choose to do this.
 
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