Just wanted to find out if my cham looks healthy

Good evening all so sorry to bother so we have gotten a new baby cam about 3 weeks ago his about 12 weeks old now just wane make sure he looks healthy and still doing well we give him a hour or 2 sunlight and our uvb 5.0 pop so had to get the ice-cream cone globe till we can get a new one in two weeks we moved the heating lamp up so to make sure he does not over heat or get burn
 

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Looks very healthy to me. You sure its a male? Are there spurs on the back feet? Could see in the pics but it might be the angle. The casque looks like a female and there is no bulge at the vent. careful of the direct sun. The babies sunburn easily. It is needed for the uvb, but indirect would be better. I just love that age. So precious and curious.
 
Hello and warmest welcomes to you and your darling veiled! I do believe you have a female and he/she does look healthy to me as well. As MzLaurie mentioned above, photo at of the back of your chameleon's feet will help us know, please share that with us when you have the chance. If you do have a girl, she is going to need a lay bin, veiled chameleons come to maturity very early in life and the females will lay infertile eggs much like chickens do. Maintaining a diet and lower temps for females help so they do not lay as often and decreases their clutch size. If you do have a female, we can walk you through all of that :)

We are all chameleon lovers here and want your chameleon to be as happy and healthy as possible and for you to be a confident, successful keeper. If you are open to a husbandry review, one of us would gladly give you some pointers on anything that may need some improvement. I'll post it for you below :)

The other thing I would mention, is that chameleons are very shy lizards. Handling them often can cause them stress which may lower their immune system to fight off any germs/bacteria, but could also potentially shorten their life span. View them more like a goldfish type pet - find joy in taking care of their environment, enjoy observing them and feeding them but you don't take them out to handle/hold. My babies I really only take out of their enclosures when I am doing weights, adjusting something in their enclosure, taking them to the vet or getting them some supervised outside time. Hopefully that helps!!

Chameleon Info:

  • Your Chameleon - The species, sex, and age of your chameleon. How long has it been in your care?
  • Handling - How often do you handle your chameleon?
  • Feeding - What are you feeding your cham? What amount? What is the schedule? How are you gut-loading your feeders?
  • Supplements - What brand and type of calcium and vitamin products are you dusting your feeders with, and what is the schedule?
  • Watering - What kind of watering technique do you use? How often and how long do you mist? Do you see your chameleon drinking?
  • Fecal Description - Briefly note colors and consistency from recent droppings. Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites?
  • History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you.

Cage Info:
  • Cage Type - Describe your cage (Glass, Screen, Combo?) What are the dimensions?
  • Lighting - What brand, model, and types of lighting are you using? What is your daily lighting schedule?
  • Temperature - What temp range have you created (cage floor to basking spot)? Lowest overnight temp? How do you measure these temps?
  • Humidity - What are your humidity levels? How are you creating and maintaining these levels? What do you use to measure humidity?
  • Plants - Are you using live plants? If so, what kind?
  • Placement - Where is your cage located? Is it near any fans, air vents, or high-traffic areas? At what height is the top of the cage relative to your room floor?
  • Location - Where are you geographically located?

Current Problem -
 
Well I believe each cham has its own personality. I try to listen to what they tell me. Mine begs to come out when he hears me coming usually. He likes to go for walks and loves his window that I set up with pathos hanging from the top. But there are times when he heads to the back so I just leave him be. They are curious creatures but can geT away from you in a second and get into danger. I had another one that hated to be handled. She was fearful of everything. So I just let her be not to cause her stress.
 
Looks very healthy to me. You sure its a male? Are there spurs on the back feet? Could see in the pics but it might be the angle. The casque looks like a female and there is no bulge at the vent. careful of the direct sun. The babies sunburn easily. It is needed for the uvb, but indirect would be better. I just love that age. So precious and curious.
Will take a better photo when I'm at come back from work and we take him out about 2 a week for 5 min
 

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Oh I see the little spurs. With each motel from here on out his colors will come in. Very exciting. I do recommend once you get your lights to do a complete husbandry review. Beman is excellent at spotting problem areas. At about 8 months he will start to patrol looking out for a female and will go over every inch of the cage repeatedly. So it’s really best to have someone go over your setup feeding schedule and supplements. There is so much misinformation and bad products out there that new owners have a hard time. So we here try to help anyway we can. Pl it s there are tips to be on the lookout for. Molting the y are dry molters and need no moisture or water to achieve it. The only time assistance is needed if there is stuck shed at the tip of the tail or a band around a leg or ankle. This can cut off blood flow. So if you see that, remove it gently by scratching it with you fingernail to break the band on a leg and remove any on the tip of the tail. At his age he should be eating 10-12 small crickets a day. The crickets should be dusted daily with calcium without D3 this is very important. On the 1st and the 15th of every month they should be dusted with a multivitamin like Reptvite. Vitamin a is essential for the eyes. But an overload of vitamins and d3 can cause all sorts of problems. There should be live plants in the cage. Veileds nibble on plants and if they kibble on a plastic plant the impacting could kill them. Also there are many plants that are toxic to chams. Online Chameleon Safe plant lists are available. Also water sticks to live plants and chams drink off the leaves. Humidity, temps, are all very important to. Cage setup and proper lighting can be learned on chameleonacademy.com a dime I’ve only gues down three inches and will result in MBd so liniar uvb light reptisun 24” is recommended. A bulb comes with the hood that is the right strength. Also I live bend a branch by Flukers farms on Amazon to create a safe climbing gym. They are cheap and Cham safe. Come in three sizes. Use branches as thick as your thumb. Take a plastic cup and poke one small hole in the bottom with a seeing needle and fill with ice cubes daily and place it on top so it drips onto leaves of a plant for water supply. Well there is so much more but a husbandry review is needed to see what you need. Good luck with your new addition to the family.
 
Well I believe each cham has its own personality. I try to listen to what they tell me. Mine begs to come out when he hears me coming usually. He likes to go for walks and loves his window that I set up with pathos hanging from the top. But there are times when he heads to the back so I just leave him be. They are curious creatures but can geT away from you in a second and get into danger. I had another one that hated to be handled. She was fearful of everything. So I just let her be not to cause her stress.
You are very right with that. I do have one chameleon that likes to come out of his enclosure and explore on his free range tree. My other three do not like coming out at all.
 
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