Live plants

Chameleon Info:
Your Chameleon: Veiled Female, about 6 months old, have had her for 5 months.
Handling: A couple times a week.
Feeding: I am feeding her small super worms and crickets.
Watering: I water her cage once an hour to bring up the humidity. I have never seen her drink (or eat) she gets
paranoid when I'm around.
Fecal Description: Have seen her a yellow and greenish color. When she is in her cage usually dark colors and patterns. Always looks like she's hunting.
History: Used to be in a very small cramped cage. (felt pretty bad for her)

Cage info:
Cage type: I'm not sure what brand but its a screen cage and the largest size. It is tilted on its side because shes a small lizard (still pretty tall) because my last lizard died from falling and contracting a disease I'm pretty paranoid but will turn it back the correct way when she gets bigger.
Lighting: I'm using Zoomed (I think) Using a double light. One for light and one for heat. I keep the heat one on all day with an additional heater because it's to cold if I don't. Turn the light one off at night.
Temperature: Usually around 85 degrees Fahrenheit.
Humidity: I try to keep it has humid as I can but it changes throughout the day. I have a thermometer for heat and humidity. I keep it humid by spraying with water.
Plants: I am not using living plants.
Placement: Cage is located in my room (in the basement)
Location: I am located in Utah.

Concern: I want to start using live plants and getting her on some fruits and veggies. I don't know what ones are safe for her to have however. I have put her on a lime plant next to a window for about an hour a day but I want to make sure everything is safe and what live plants I can start putting in her cage.
 
Yes I am using a UVB. I add calcium to her crickets and Vitamin A to her super worms (because she had some clogged mouth glands a while back and the Dr. said to start adding some vitamin A to her diet)
Can you please provide the schedules of your supplements, and types of supplements? Happy Chameleon Keeping, and Happy New Year!!!:):p:D:p:D:)
 

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Does anyone have any tips?: I want to start using live plants and getting her on some fruits and veggies. I don't know what ones are safe for her to have however. I have put her on a lime plant next to a window for about an hour a day but I want to make sure everything is safe and what live plants I can start putting in her cage.
 
Looks pretty good. You could also just gutload those ingredients and your cham would be getting the food either way. I used to do that with my female, but I found that she doesn't really like food that doesn't crawl :) But if your cham does like to eat that, then just make sure it is in small enough pieces so as to prevent the chameleon from choking.There are other threads on this site that explain the details on how to feed a cham this way. Just remember that fruits are high in sugar, so they are basically like a 'treat' so to speak. Just provide a variety, and make sure you always check nutrition facts/mineral composition of all things you are feeding to your chameleon. I have a list of items that are chameleons safe, and can be gutloaded/fed freely. Pm me if you want the list
 
Please post a photo of her so I can see how big she is and her colors.

Chameleons are slow to start to drink so each misting session needs to be long enough to get them started and give them time to finish.
I recommend running a dripper too. You can use a tall deli cup with a tiny hole in the bottom so it drops at the rate of one or two drips per second.
Fecal description means what does her poop and urates (pee) look like.
Is the basking light the kind that gives off a white light? What is the UVB light? All lights should be off at night.

You need to take good care of the insects by feeding/gutloading them well. For roaches, crickets, superworms, locusts I would use dandelion greens, kale, endive, escarole, collards, sweet potato, sweet red pepper, squash, carrots, zucchini and a small amount of fruit...berries, apples, pears, melon.
These same greens, veggies and fruits can be offered to your chameleon cut into appropriate sized pieces.

For plants you can use hibiscus, scheffleura, pothos, ficus, and any others that are non toxic and well washed...both sides of the leaves.

Female veileds can lay eggs without having mated so once she's showing her adult colors you need to make sure you have an appropriate egg laying bin in the cage at all times. It should be an opaque container at least 12" deep x 12" x 8" filled with washed playsand that is just moist enough to hold a tunnel. If you don't give her a place to lay the eggs she could die eggbound. Also...once a female veiled gets her adult colors it's important not to overfeed her....it will make her lay big clutches and may make her develop MBD or a prolapse or not be able to lay her eggs, etc.

Re supplements.. it's important to dust the insects at almost every feeding with a phosphorus-free calcium powder to help make up for the poor ratio of calcium to phosphorus found in most feeder insects.
It's recommended that you dust twice a month with a phosphorus-free calcium/D3 powder to ensure that she gets some D3 without over doing it and letting her produce the rest of the D3 from her exposure to the UVB light. D3 from supplements can build up in the system and lead to health problems. D3from the UVB won't build up as long as she can move in and out if the light as she wants too.
It's also recommended that you dust twice a month with a vitamin powder (no D3) that contains a beta carotene prOformed source of vitamin A since prOformed vitamin A won't build up in the system like prEformed sources will. However this leaves it up to you to provide some prEformed vitamin A (which would likely be what the vet said to do) if/when your chameleon needs it.
 
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