Malnutrition and Respiratory questions

[reach4thecosmo]

So this is my first chameleon, and first reptile, and unfortunately I have already made mistakes because of this. My panther chameleon cosmo is a year old and had MBD and was treated for it with calcium injections. It has been hard to find a vet that I can trust, as the first vet I contacted when I figured out his condition sent him back and told me to use calcium supplements and he would recover on his on. Absolutely not true, as he needed injections which I got from another vet. He also had, on top of that, parasites, which was treated. Since then, he was doing fine up until this winter when I noticed him going to bed earlier than usual. He would turn in hours before his lights went out, and when I asked the vet he said it was normal. I changed his light cycle to 10 hours because I thought the shorter hours of light this winter was affecting him. However, recently I took him to the vet to test for parasites because I found him sleeping at 1 pm and he hadn't been tested in over 6 months. I thought that this might be why he was sleeping and generally more lethargic. His test was negative, and I asked the vet if he was a healthy weight and all he told me was what he used to weigh and what he weighs now. He's only 69 grams and had only gained 3 grams from the last time, and as I looked it up I figured out that he must be underweight which could be contributing to his lethargy. Since then I've gotten a document to track his husbandry, such as temperatures/humidity, eating, pooping, supplements etc. It has been very helpful and he's already gained 5 grams.

I wanted advice to see if this is a good assumption for what is going on with him. I got concerned today because he made a weird sound and it almost seemed like he'd throw up, but he didn't. It got me worried about a respiratory illness because I was curious before if that was something that was affecting him. His temperature always stays around 72°F even at night, but the humidity has been around 60%-67% during the day at the highest and 80+% at night just after midnight. I've recently gotten a small dehumidifier to put in to lower it during the day, however I've seen some conflicted information about daytime humidity. I follow information I've gotten from Chameleon Academy, which says 40-50% during the day which is part of why I was concerned about a respiratory issue. His basking temp is 81°F and he has all live plants in his enclosure. I haven't really heard any labored breathing outside of this instance today, with maybe a similar instance awhile ago but not regularly. He doesn't really have his head tilted up, which I know is a sign but I'm curious what the early signs are since I wouldn't want it to get that bad. He also injured his tongue just yesterday, he grabbed the tong I was using to feed him. Although it was rubber tipped he still held on to it and didn't want to let go until it was in his mouth. He was still able to eat, just couldn't shoot as far.

Let me know your thoughts! I've included a picture of him and his poop.

 

[Beman]

Hi there welcome to the forum. I would love for you to do a husbandry review with us. This will help the members here to help you fully. Please copy and paste the info below into your reply and then answer all the questions. Please post more pics of your boy and the entire enclosure including the lighting on top.

Chameleon Info:

• Your Chameleon - The species, sex, and age of your chameleon. How long has it been in your care?
• Handling - How often do you handle your chameleon?
• Feeding - What are you feeding your cham? What amount? What is the schedule? How are you gut-loading your feeders?
• Supplements - What brand and type of calcium and vitamin products are you dusting your feeders with and what is the schedule?
• Watering - What kind of watering technique do you use? How often and how long to you mist? Do you see your chameleon drinking?
• Fecal Description - Briefly note colors and consistency from recent droppings. Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites?
• History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you.

Cage Info:

• Cage Type - Describe your cage (Glass, Screen, Combo?) What are the dimensions?
• Lighting - What brand, model, and types of lighting are you using? What is your daily lighting schedule?
• Temperature - What temp range have you created (cage floor to basking spot)? Lowest overnight temp? How do you measure these temps?
• Humidity - What are your humidity levels? How are you creating and maintaining these levels? What do you use to measure humidity?
• Plants - Are you using live plants? If so, what kind?
• Placement - Where is your cage located? Is it near any fans, air vents, or high traffic areas? At what height is the top of the cage relative to your room floor?
• Location - Where are you geographically located?

Current Problem - The current problem you are concerned about.

--------------

Please Note:

1. The more details you provide the better and more accurate help you will receive.
2. Photos can be very helpful.

 

[reach4thecosmo]

Chameleon Info:

• Your Chameleon - panther chameleon, male, 1 year old, in my care for 7 months
• Handling - maybe once or twice a week, handling for a couple minutes at a time if even. I usually opt to let him free range in my room where his enclosure is, usually once a week for an hour or two. I have set up sticks for him to climb and another basking light if he wants.
• Feeding - he's now on a regular schedule. as of the last week, he usually eats 3-4 dubia roaches every other day and will also eat a few black soldier fly larvae. occasionally a hornworm or black soldier fly. I gutload them with carrots and apples.
• Supplements - I use a calcium without D3 supplement and bee pollen powder on the bugs every time I feed them. Every two weeks I use the reptivite multisupplement only. However, as I mentioned before he hasn't regularly been eating until the last week so he could be lacking in this department. But we are getting better.
• Watering - I have a misting bottle I use to mist the top of his cage throughout the day which he drinks from (I've seen). I also have a misting system that goes off three times at night, once at 9pm then 1am then 6am, for two minutes each time. He also has a humidifier that goes off at 12am and ends around 3am. All of the water drains into a bucket at the bottom of the enclosure.
• Fecal Description - His most recent poop looked good. The urate was a cream color and the poop brown and semi-solid with a bit of watery texture. He was just tested for parasites a week or two ago and was negative.
• History - He developed metabolic bone disease when he was young and was treated for it with calcium injections (and i think D3? can't remember). He also had parasites at the same time and was treated.

Cage Info:

• Cage Type - Extra Large Zoo Med Reptibreeze (24 x 24 x 48), screen but I have three sides covered with plastic to raise the humidity. At night I cover the top of the cage with a piece of glass (there are still some sections uncover, not a perfect fit) as well as the front of the cage with plastic to be able to get a higher humidity at night.
• Lighting - Zoo Med 22" T5 HO 5.0, bulb is reptisun 24W, heat lamp with white bulb 24W i think, gets 81°F basking temp. The lights come on at 7am and turn off at 5pm which is the same as current sunrise/sunset times in my location.
• Temperature - During the day it's an average of 74°F, only a couple degrees different from the upper to lower half. The basking temp is 81°F. The lowest overnight temp I believe has been 66°F. I have two digital therm-hydrometers in the cage that I clipped to the side that I measure this with.
• Humidity - Currently, I have been able to get the humidity levels between 40-50% during the day now as I recently purchased a small dehumidifier. But before this last week it could sometimes get in the 60s% humidity. At night, it usually hits 80+% in the middle of the night when the humidifier goes off at 12am. But at 9pm when the misters go off I think it gets to 60-70%. The digital thermo-hydrometer is used for this as well.
• Plants - Yes, I have a bunch of potted plants in his enclosure. Lots of pothos, a birds nest fern, one dracena, a swiss cheese plant, and I think a kind of Alocasia. I have struggled finding plants that can thrive in his environment and have gotten a plant light for them, but recently stopped using it and am replacing it with Jungle Dawn 34 Watt LED Terrarium Light Bar
• Placement - It is in my room, next to but not directly in front of my window. There is just the ceiling fan but the cage is off to the side and there's no vent nearby. It can become high traffic, I have a dog and a cat. Recently I've had to kick him out and close the door during the day to give him privacy (he likes to lay on my bed and stare). My large dog doesn't pay him any attention. The bottom of the cage is off the ground high enough to be at the top of her back, so just above my knees. The top of the cage reaches the top of my window and is maybe a foot below my ceiling.
• Location - I'm in Bakersfield CA, gets really hot here in the summer if you didn't know! But we have good AC.

Current Problem - Is he underweight? Could this be what has been affecting him? Or should I be concerned of something else too...

 

[Beman]

Chameleon Info:

• Your Chameleon - panther chameleon, male, 1 year old, in my care for 7 months
• Handling - maybe once or twice a week, handling for a couple minutes at a time if even. I usually opt to let him free range in my room where his enclosure is, usually once a week for an hour or two. I have set up sticks for him to climb and another basking light if he wants.
• Feeding - he's now on a regular schedule. as of the last week, he usually eats 3-4 dubia roaches every other day and will also eat a few black soldier fly larvae. occasionally a hornworm or black soldier fly. I gutload them with carrots and apples.
• Supplements - I use a calcium without D3 supplement and bee pollen powder on the bugs every time I feed them. Every two weeks I use the reptivite multisupplement only. However, as I mentioned before he hasn't regularly been eating until the last week so he could be lacking in this department. But we are getting better.
• Watering - I have a misting bottle I use to mist the top of his cage throughout the day which he drinks from (I've seen). I also have a misting system that goes off three times at night, once at 9pm then 1am then 6am, for two minutes each time. He also has a humidifier that goes off at 12am and ends around 3am. All of the water drains into a bucket at the bottom of the enclosure.
• Fecal Description - His most recent poop looked good. The urate was a cream color and the poop brown and semi-solid with a bit of watery texture. He was just tested for parasites a week or two ago and was negative.
• History - He developed metabolic bone disease when he was young and was treated for it with calcium injections (and i think D3? can't remember). He also had parasites at the same time and was treated.

Cage Info:

• Cage Type - Extra Large Zoo Med Reptibreeze (24 x 24 x 48), screen but I have three sides covered with plastic to raise the humidity. At night I cover the top of the cage with a piece of glass (there are still some sections uncover, not a perfect fit) as well as the front of the cage with plastic to be able to get a higher humidity at night.
• Lighting - Zoo Med 22" T5 HO 5.0, bulb is reptisun 24W, heat lamp with white bulb 24W i think, gets 81°F basking temp. The lights come on at 7am and turn off at 5pm which is the same as current sunrise/sunset times in my location.
• Temperature - During the day it's an average of 74°F, only a couple degrees different from the upper to lower half. The basking temp is 81°F. The lowest overnight temp I believe has been 66°F. I have two digital therm-hydrometers in the cage that I clipped to the side that I measure this with.
• Humidity - Currently, I have been able to get the humidity levels between 40-50% during the day now as I recently purchased a small dehumidifier. But before this last week it could sometimes get in the 60s% humidity. At night, it usually hits 80+% in the middle of the night when the humidifier goes off at 12am. But at 9pm when the misters go off I think it gets to 60-70%. The digital thermo-hydrometer is used for this as well.
• Plants - Yes, I have a bunch of potted plants in his enclosure. Lots of pothos, a birds nest fern, one dracena, a swiss cheese plant, and I think a kind of Alocasia. I have struggled finding plants that can thrive in his environment and have gotten a plant light for them, but recently stopped using it and am replacing it with Jungle Dawn 34 Watt LED Terrarium Light Bar
• Placement - It is in my room, next to but not directly in front of my window. There is just the ceiling fan but the cage is off to the side and there's no vent nearby. It can become high traffic, I have a dog and a cat. Recently I've had to kick him out and close the door during the day to give him privacy (he likes to lay on my bed and stare). My large dog doesn't pay him any attention. The bottom of the cage is off the ground high enough to be at the top of her back, so just above my knees. The top of the cage reaches the top of my window and is maybe a foot below my ceiling.
• Location - I'm in Bakersfield CA, gets really hot here in the summer if you didn't know! But we have good AC.

Current Problem - Is he underweight? Could this be what has been affecting him? Or should I be concerned of something else too...

Ok I am going to go through all of this information. Please also post some more pics of the chameleon and of the entire cage from the lighting down

 

[reach4thecosmo]

Ok I am going to go through all of this information. Please also post some more pics of the chameleon and of the entire cage from the lighting down

 

[Beman]

Please see my feedback in red bold.

• Your Chameleon - panther chameleon, male, 1 year old, in my care for 7 months
• Handling - maybe once or twice a week, handling for a couple minutes at a time if even. I usually opt to let him free range in my room where his enclosure is, usually once a week for an hour or two. I have set up sticks for him to climb and another basking light if he wants.
• Feeding - he's now on a regular schedule. as of the last week, he usually eats 3-4 dubia roaches every other day and will also eat a few black soldier fly larvae. occasionally a hornworm or black soldier fly. I gutload them with carrots and apples. You will want to expand your gutload to include more green veg. See gutload image.
• Supplements - I use a calcium without D3 supplement and bee pollen powder on the bugs every time I feed them. Every two weeks I use the reptivite multisupplement only. However, as I mentioned before he hasn't regularly been eating until the last week so he could be lacking in this department. But we are getting better. What reptivite are you using the with D3 version or without D3? Be cautious using bee pollen at all feedings directly we have seen direct oral ingestion of bee pollen lead to edema. You can use the bee pollen on your gutload for your bugs.
• Watering - I have a misting bottle I use to mist the top of his cage throughout the day which he drinks from (I've seen). I also have a misting system that goes off three times at night, once at 9pm then 1am then 6am, for two minutes each time. He also has a humidifier that goes off at 12am and ends around 3am. All of the water drains into a bucket at the bottom of the enclosure. this is good.
• Fecal Description - His most recent poop looked good. The urate was a cream color and the poop brown and semi-solid with a bit of watery texture. He was just tested for parasites a week or two ago and was negative. Just keep in mind if the parasites are not in the cycle where they are shedding you may get a false negative so getting a follow up fecal is always a good idea.
• History - He developed metabolic bone disease when he was young and was treated for it with calcium injections (and i think D3? can't remember). He also had parasites at the same time and was treated.

Cage Info:

• Cage Type - Extra Large Zoo Med Reptibreeze (24 x 24 x 48), screen but I have three sides covered with plastic to raise the humidity. At night I cover the top of the cage with a piece of glass (there are still some sections uncover, not a perfect fit) as well as the front of the cage with plastic to be able to get a higher humidity at night.
• Lighting - Zoo Med 22" T5 HO 5.0, bulb is reptisun 24W, heat lamp with white bulb 24W i think, gets 81°F basking temp. The lights come on at 7am and turn off at 5pm which is the same as current sunrise/sunset times in my location. When last did you change the UVB bulb? Zoo med you want every 6-9 months to buy a new one.
• Temperature - During the day it's an average of 74°F, only a couple degrees different from the upper to lower half. The basking temp is 81°F. The lowest overnight temp I believe has been 66°F. I have two digital therm-hydrometers in the cage that I clipped to the side that I measure this with.
• Humidity - Currently, I have been able to get the humidity levels between 40-50% during the day now as I recently purchased a small dehumidifier. But before this last week it could sometimes get in the 60s% humidity. At night, it usually hits 80+% in the middle of the night when the humidifier goes off at 12am. But at 9pm when the misters go off I think it gets to 60-70%. The digital thermo-hydrometer is used for this as well. So with higher night time humidity just make sure you are getting lower temps. They should be below 68.
• Plants - Yes, I have a bunch of potted plants in his enclosure. Lots of pothos, a birds nest fern, one dracena, a swiss cheese plant, and I think a kind of Alocasia. I have struggled finding plants that can thrive in his environment and have gotten a plant light for them, but recently stopped using it and am replacing it with Jungle Dawn 34 Watt LED Terrarium Light Bar
• Placement - It is in my room, next to but not directly in front of my window. There is just the ceiling fan but the cage is off to the side and there's no vent nearby. It can become high traffic, I have a dog and a cat. Recently I've had to kick him out and close the door during the day to give him privacy (he likes to lay on my bed and stare). My large dog doesn't pay him any attention. The bottom of the cage is off the ground high enough to be at the top of her back, so just above my knees. The top of the cage reaches the top of my window and is maybe a foot below my ceiling.
• Location - I'm in Bakersfield CA, gets really hot here in the summer if you didn't know! But we have good AC.

Current Problem - Is he underweight? Could this be what has been affecting him? Or should I be concerned of something else too...

So honestly I am surprised that he is only 69 grams he does not look like what a 69 gram cham would... I would buy a kitchen gram scale and see what it is and track the weight by doing monthly weigh ins. See if your vet was right on the weight. He is not beefy but he also does not look overly thin to me. Could put on a little more muscle tone/weight. Like I said I find it extremely hard to believe that he is only 69 grams.

I would drop off another fecal just to be sure. Get the scale and let me know what he is weighing in at. If he stays eating 3-4 feeders every other day that is a good amount and will help him put on a bit more weight without becoming obese.

 

[reach4thecosmo]

Please see my feedback in red bold.

• Your Chameleon - panther chameleon, male, 1 year old, in my care for 7 months
• Handling - maybe once or twice a week, handling for a couple minutes at a time if even. I usually opt to let him free range in my room where his enclosure is, usually once a week for an hour or two. I have set up sticks for him to climb and another basking light if he wants.
• Feeding - he's now on a regular schedule. as of the last week, he usually eats 3-4 dubia roaches every other day and will also eat a few black soldier fly larvae. occasionally a hornworm or black soldier fly. I gutload them with carrots and apples. You will want to expand your gutload to include more green veg. See gutload image.
• Supplements - I use a calcium without D3 supplement and bee pollen powder on the bugs every time I feed them. Every two weeks I use the reptivite multisupplement only. However, as I mentioned before he hasn't regularly been eating until the last week so he could be lacking in this department. But we are getting better. What reptivite are you using the with D3 version or without D3? Be cautious using bee pollen at all feedings directly we have seen direct oral ingestion of bee pollen lead to edema. You can use the bee pollen on your gutload for your bugs.
• Watering - I have a misting bottle I use to mist the top of his cage throughout the day which he drinks from (I've seen). I also have a misting system that goes off three times at night, once at 9pm then 1am then 6am, for two minutes each time. He also has a humidifier that goes off at 12am and ends around 3am. All of the water drains into a bucket at the bottom of the enclosure. this is good.
• Fecal Description - His most recent poop looked good. The urate was a cream color and the poop brown and semi-solid with a bit of watery texture. He was just tested for parasites a week or two ago and was negative. Just keep in mind if the parasites are not in the cycle where they are shedding you may get a false negative so getting a follow up fecal is always a good idea.
• History - He developed metabolic bone disease when he was young and was treated for it with calcium injections (and i think D3? can't remember). He also had parasites at the same time and was treated.

Cage Info:

• Cage Type - Extra Large Zoo Med Reptibreeze (24 x 24 x 48), screen but I have three sides covered with plastic to raise the humidity. At night I cover the top of the cage with a piece of glass (there are still some sections uncover, not a perfect fit) as well as the front of the cage with plastic to be able to get a higher humidity at night.
• Lighting - Zoo Med 22" T5 HO 5.0, bulb is reptisun 24W, heat lamp with white bulb 24W i think, gets 81°F basking temp. The lights come on at 7am and turn off at 5pm which is the same as current sunrise/sunset times in my location. When last did you change the UVB bulb? Zoo med you want every 6-9 months to buy a new one.
• Temperature - During the day it's an average of 74°F, only a couple degrees different from the upper to lower half. The basking temp is 81°F. The lowest overnight temp I believe has been 66°F. I have two digital therm-hydrometers in the cage that I clipped to the side that I measure this with.
• Humidity - Currently, I have been able to get the humidity levels between 40-50% during the day now as I recently purchased a small dehumidifier. But before this last week it could sometimes get in the 60s% humidity. At night, it usually hits 80+% in the middle of the night when the humidifier goes off at 12am. But at 9pm when the misters go off I think it gets to 60-70%. The digital thermo-hydrometer is used for this as well. So with higher night time humidity just make sure you are getting lower temps. They should be below 68.
• Plants - Yes, I have a bunch of potted plants in his enclosure. Lots of pothos, a birds nest fern, one dracena, a swiss cheese plant, and I think a kind of Alocasia. I have struggled finding plants that can thrive in his environment and have gotten a plant light for them, but recently stopped using it and am replacing it with Jungle Dawn 34 Watt LED Terrarium Light Bar
• Placement - It is in my room, next to but not directly in front of my window. There is just the ceiling fan but the cage is off to the side and there's no vent nearby. It can become high traffic, I have a dog and a cat. Recently I've had to kick him out and close the door during the day to give him privacy (he likes to lay on my bed and stare). My large dog doesn't pay him any attention. The bottom of the cage is off the ground high enough to be at the top of her back, so just above my knees. The top of the cage reaches the top of my window and is maybe a foot below my ceiling.
• Location - I'm in Bakersfield CA, gets really hot here in the summer if you didn't know! But we have good AC.

Current Problem - Is he underweight? Could this be what has been affecting him? Or should I be concerned of something else too...

So honestly I am surprised that he is only 69 grams he does not look like what a 69 gram cham would... I would buy a kitchen gram scale and see what it is and track the weight by doing monthly weigh ins. See if your vet was right on the weight. He is not beefy but he also does not look overly thin to me. Could put on a little more muscle tone/weight. Like I said I find it extremely hard to believe that he is only 69 grams.

I would drop off another fecal just to be sure. Get the scale and let me know what he is weighing in at. If he stays eating 3-4 feeders every other day that is a good amount and will help him put on a bit more weight without becoming obese.

Thank you so much! I just replaced his UVB bulb, I think it was going on 6-9 months so it did need to be replaced. I will add a bigger variety for the gutload and do bee pollen with that instead. The reptivite that I have is with D3. And I have gotten a scale to record his weight! Last time I weighed him he was 74 grams.

 

[Beman]

Thank you so much! I just replaced his UVB bulb, I think it was going on 6-9 months so it did need to be replaced. I will add a bigger variety for the gutload and do bee pollen with that instead. The reptivite that I have is with D3. And I have gotten a scale to record his weight! Last time I weighed him he was 74 grams.

Ok good so your reptivite is the correct one to use every two weeks. Start weighing him and see if you can get him to increase his weight. really want him up around 100 grams at least. If he is eating happily now increase the amount of feeders to 5-6 every other day. See if this helps him put on weight. But you want to add in something else like silkworms not just do dubia and bsfl. Try to weigh him every 2 weeks and chart the progress. The new UVB should perk him up a bit. UVB can impact their appetite. If you need additional help just add to this thread so I can review everything we went over and so can others.

 

[reach4thecosmo]

Ok good so your reptivite is the correct one to use every two weeks. Start weighing him and see if you can get him to increase his weight. really want him up around 100 grams at least. If he is eating happily now increase the amount of feeders to 5-6 every other day. See if this helps him put on weight. But you want to add in something else like silkworms not just do dubia and bsfl. Try to weigh him every 2 weeks and chart the progress. The new UVB should perk him up a bit. UVB can impact their appetite. If you need additional help just add to this thread so I can review everything we went over and so can others.

 

[reach4thecosmo]

So, I'm worried that I've made these changes too late. Since the UVB replacement he hasn't been more active as you mentioned he might/should be. He's been eating normally, but today I caught him briefly with his eyes closed and nose up. He's been sitting on the same branch this morning, moving very little. I've included a picture of his position. When I saw his eyes closed he quickly opened them as I approached. The only thing I've added since my last message is an LED light bar for the plants. He also changed his sleeping spot and I included a picture of that too.

 

[Beman]

So, I'm worried that I've made these changes too late. Since the UVB replacement he hasn't been more active as you mentioned he might/should be. He's been eating normally, but today I caught him briefly with his eyes closed and nose up. He's been sitting on the same branch this morning, moving very little. I've included a picture of his position. When I saw his eyes closed he quickly opened them as I approached. The only thing I've added since my last message is an LED light bar for the plants. He also changed his sleeping spot and I included a picture of that too.

There is always the option of a vet visit to ensure he is not dealing with a respiratory infection. Nose pointed up is common with these. Although you have not mentioned anything else like gapping or wheezing popping noises when he breathes.

They can go into a winter blues situation. Where they can become less active.

OF course my main concern is parasites... Just due to his size and that he had a prior issue with them. You did not say what kind he was diagnosed with. Some are harder to get rid of than others and if the cage was not properly cleaned they can reinfect themselves.

 

[reach4thecosmo]

They can go into a winter blues situation. Where they can become less active.

OF course my main concern is parasites... Just due to his size and that he had a prior issue with them. You did not say what kind he was diagnosed with. Some are harder to get rid of than others and if the cage was not properly cleaned they can reinfect themselves.

I don't know the kind of parasites he had... What is the proper way to clean the cage after dealing with parasites? Are there specific products to use?

 

[Beman]

I don't know the kind of parasites he had... What is the proper way to clean the cage after dealing with parasites? Are there specific products to use?

Depends on the parasite. One in particular you have to strip the entire cage and clean it with a particular item. Then keep a bare cage during treatment and do follow up fecals to ensure it is actually gone. For others like pinworms you have to remove plants and wash the enclosure well along with spraying the plants leaves really well.

But if he is in the same cage with the same plants and branches that he was in when he had parasites then there is a high re contamination risk if nothing was cleaned. Due to them possibly licking a surface where the oocyst was.

The oocysts aka parasite eggs come out in the fecal. Re contamination happens when these are picked back up and ingested. Then the parasite life cycle repeats.

 

[reach4thecosmo]

Depends on the parasite. One in particular you have to strip the entire cage and clean it with a particular item. Then keep a bare cage during treatment and do follow up fecals to ensure it is actually gone. For others like pinworms you have to remove plants and wash the enclosure well along with spraying the plants leaves really well.

But if he is in the same cage with the same plants and branches that he was in when he had parasites then there is a high re contamination risk if nothing was cleaned. Due to them possibly licking a surface where the oocyst was.

The oocysts aka parasite eggs come out in the fecal. Re contamination happens when these are picked back up and ingested. Then the parasite life cycle repeats.

okay, thank you so so much. I will try and get another fecal test done soon and then clean the cage accordingly. I asked for his medical record so I should know soon what parasite he had.

 

[Beman]

okay, thank you so so much. I will try and get another fecal test done soon and then clean the cage accordingly. I asked for his medical record so I should know soon what parasite he had.

Let me know what the results of the new fecal are and if you find out what he had prior. This will help me give you more info.

 

[reach4thecosmo]

Let me know what the results of the new fecal are and if you find out what he had prior. This will help me give you more info.

Okay, I was just waiting on the doctors to send me his medical records. The format of the records is a bit confusing but it looks like he had Giardia. He was treated with Fenbendazole. I'm waiting for him to poop then taking it in to do another fecal.

 

[Beman]

Okay, I was just waiting on the doctors to send me his medical records. The format of the records is a bit confusing but it looks like he had Giardia. He was treated with Fenbendazole. I'm waiting for him to poop then taking it in to do another fecal.

Well at least that is not the worst one but not one I am familiar with either. When you get the new fecal done then we can rule out parasite issue at least.

 

[reach4thecosmo]

Well at least that is not the worst one but not one I am familiar with either. When you get the new fecal done then we can rule out parasite issue at least.

He pooped! I bagged it and just took it to the vet. There was some red in it though... Is that normal?

 

[ChamelaChameleon]

When my guy had Giardia and was treated with Metronidazole he passed several poops that contained red stains. I was told that the red stains were normal after treatment. After several weeks the red staining resolved itself.

 

[ChamelaChameleon]

When my guy had Giardia and was treated with Metronidazole he passed several poops that contained red stains. I was told that the red stains were normal after treatment. After several weeks the red staining resolved itself.

Also the treatment was effective and at his recent wellness check his fecal was negative for all parasites.