Meet Yoda!

[LRosario]

Hi Everyone!
I am a 1st time Chameleon Caretaker lol

We just got Yoda on 01/25 from Petco. I think we verified that he is a boy but cannot tell his age.
I’m mostly looking for assistance as far as taking care of him and lighting situations.

We started off feeding him the large crickets sold from Petco but then noticed he wasn’t very interested in eating the same on the 3rd day, he does eat mealworms that we have provided in a dish. This week we got him the small crickets that way they don’t climb on him and such.
Also not sure how often to dust them with Calcium??
We have decked out his living situation and I’ve added a picture so you all can see and give some suggestions to any changes needed!!

Please advise and thanks in advance!

 

[cruz.m]

Hi Everyone!
I am a 1st time Chameleon Caretaker lol

We just got Yoda on 01/25 from Petco. I think we verified that he is a boy but cannot tell his age.
I’m mostly looking for assistance as far as taking care of him and lighting situations.

We started off feeding him the large crickets sold from Petco but then noticed he wasn’t very interested in eating the same on the 3rd day, he does eat mealworms that we have provided in a dish. This week we got him the small crickets that way they don’t climb on him and such.
Also not sure how often to dust them with Calcium??
We have decked out his living situation and I’ve added a picture so you all can see and give some suggestions to any changes needed!!

Please advise and thanks in advance!

So there are lots of things wrong with husbandry. Please fill this out


Chameleon Info:

• Your Chameleon - The species, sex, and age of your chameleon. How long has it been in your care?
• Handling - How often do you handle your chameleon?
• Feeding - What are you feeding your cham? What amount? What is the schedule? How are you gut-loading your feeders?
• Supplements - What brand and type of calcium and vitamin products are you dusting your feeders with and what is the schedule?
• Watering - What kind of watering technique do you use? How often and how long to you mist? Do you see your chameleon drinking?
• Fecal Description - Briefly note colors and consistency from recent droppings. Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites?
• History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you.

Cage Info:

• Cage Type - Describe your cage (Glass, Screen, Combo?) What are the dimensions?
• Lighting - What brand, model, and types of lighting are you using? What is your daily lighting schedule?
• Temperature - What temp range have you created (cage floor to basking spot)? Lowest overnight temp? How do you measure these temps?
• Humidity - What are your humidity levels? How are you creating and maintaining these levels? What do you use to measure humidity?
• Plants - Are you using live plants? If so, what kind?
• Placement - Where is your cage located? Is it near any fans, air vents, or high traffic areas? At what height is the top of the cage relative to your room floor?
• Location - Where are you geographically located?

Current Problem - The current problem you are concerned about.

--------------

Please Note:

1. The more details you provide the better and more accurate help you will receive.
2. Photos can be very helpful.

 

[cruz.m]

Plants
https://chameleonacademy.com/plants/
https://www.chameleonschool.com/safe-plants-for-chameleons/
Branches can be some from outside not containing sap and cleaned well etc...there is a video here
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=QwMzM6Zuzpg
Supplements here is a good video also look through her channel she has many good videos. Also you do not have to buy from here but these are some good ones but there are some Arcadia ones and some others!

Calcium with d3 phosphorus free
Calcium without d3 phosphorus free
Reptivite without d3
Lights (at least 24”)
https://www.pangeareptile.com/store/zoo-med-reptisun-t5-ho-terrarium-
hood.html
https://www.pangeareptile.com/store/arcadia-prot5-uvb-kit.html
Cage (at least 2x2x4 or bigger can make one for cheaper but it’s not always cheaper)
https://dragonstrand.com/product/tall-screen-chameleon-cage-system/
https://www.diycages.com/collections/vertical-screen-reptile-chameleon-cages/products/sc4-48x24x24-jumbo-vertical-screen-cage
Calcium without d3 everyday, small crickets no bigger than the width between his eyes, he looks pretty young not sure how young though. Feed as much as he will eat in one sitting (judging by his size). If you show us a picture of the back of his legs we can sex your cham. No substrate it’s unnecessary and can be dangerous, no fake plants all real since veileds will eat their plants sometimes, more real branches, the right lights which are in the links above (I recommend the Arcadia because you won’t have to replace it for a year and the t5ho every 6 months). He needs a dripper which can be bought or made, correct basking lamp (incandescent house bulb will work as long as it provides the correct temps). You’ll need a supplement schedule. There’s lots to work on here. Neptune the Chameleon on YouTube has some awesome videos
https://m.youtube.com/channel/UC3n4S2GRkOGfk2U8-xhaw6Q
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=2IESxfzFnmc
Edit: I forgot to mention if those are exoterra vines take them out. Also the big rock thing as well not sure what it’s for? Is that a water dish or a food dish? No mealworms I’ll attach some pictures I forgot. Also that vine/stick is too close to the light he could get burned but like I said there’s lots to work on

 

[FVcham]

Hi! Your Yoda is super adorable and good for you for coming here quickly for advice. You should fill out the above questionnaire provided from @cruz.m asap and you will get tons of great info from the experienced keepers on this forum. I think your priority right now will be getting much more plant cover (towards the top where chams spend most of their time) and the #1 urgent priority being to get the correct UVB as mentioned above. The current UVB you have will unfortunately lead to a sick chameleon. Unfortunately, lots of people with good intentions start off with the "chameleon kit" which is just not adequate, but not to worry, if you follow the advice you will be given after you answer the husbandry questions, you can set your little guy/girl up with a healthy and happy life!!! @cruz.m also gave you links to the chameleon academy, they have a wonderful husbandry program to read through which will go into detail all that is mentioned above. Here are a couple examples of planted cages though if you go through the files and pictures here, there are lots of AMAZING examples!!

 

[cruz.m]

Hi! Your Yoda is super adorable and good for you for coming here quickly for advice. You should fill out the above questionnaire provided from @cruz.m asap and you will get tons of great info from the experienced keepers on this forum. I think your priority right now will be getting much more plant cover (towards the top where chams spend most of their time) and the #1 urgent priority being to get the correct UVB as mentioned above. The current UVB you have will unfortunately lead to a sick chameleon. Unfortunately, lots of people with good intentions start off with the "chameleon kit" which is just not adequate, but not to worry, if you follow the advice you will be given after you answer the husbandry questions, you can set your little guy/girl up with a healthy and happy life!!! @cruz.m also gave you links to the chameleon academy, they have a wonderful husbandry program to read through which will go into detail all that is mentioned above. Here are a couple examples of planted cages though if you go through the files and pictures here, there are lots of AMAZING examples!!

Yup and cages are amazing I love the second one also here’s a link to the introduction of veiled chameleons read through it @LRosario and please fill out the form as soon as you can
https://chameleonacademy.com/veiled-chameleon-care/

 

[ERKleRose]

Hi Everyone!
I am a 1st time Chameleon Caretaker lol

We just got Yoda on 01/25 from Petco. I think we verified that he is a boy but cannot tell his age.
I’m mostly looking for assistance as far as taking care of him and lighting situations.

We started off feeding him the large crickets sold from Petco but then noticed he wasn’t very interested in eating the same on the 3rd day, he does eat mealworms that we have provided in a dish. This week we got him the small crickets that way they don’t climb on him and such.
Also not sure how often to dust them with Calcium??
We have decked out his living situation and I’ve added a picture so you all can see and give some suggestions to any changes needed!!

Please advise and thanks in advance!

I would remove all of the substrate (not needed unless fully bioactive- which it isn’t, as well as an impaction risk), all fake plants (impaction risk), the waterfall (bacteria breeding ground), and the hidey cave (not needed) ASAP! Move his feeding dish in the upper third part of his cage, too! I would fill out the form because sadly almost everything just in the photo needs to be changed ASAP. He needs different lighting, cage furnishings, and feeders, plus more! Only feed crickets that are either the size of the space between his eyes or smaller (this goes for all feeders besides some chameleon-safe feeder worms)! Mealworms aren’t good as a staple (or even as treats, really), so stop that ASAP, too! You’re supplement schedule depends on what brands and types of supplements you have. If you bought Zoo Med’s Chameleon Kit (which I believe you did), you’ll use the Zoo Med ReptiCalcium without D3 on every feeder every feeding (put all of the feeders in a cup or bag, add the supplement, swirl the feeders around in it until they’re lightly coated, then immediately feed them off) and the Zoo Med Reptivite with D3 once every two weeks. Here are some links and images (only use the updated gutload chart, which I’ll post again so you know which one it is) that haven’t been posted yet (as mentioned, read through every module and the veiled species profile, as well as listening to as many podcasts as possible, from The Chameleon Academy, they have the most accurate and up-to-date info!):
https://www.chameleons.info/en/
http://www.muchadoaboutchameleons.com/
https://www.chameleonforums.com/care/external-resources/
https://chameleonacademy.com/chameleon-husbandry-program-getting-started-with-chameleons/
https://chameleonacademy.com/plants/
https://chameleonacademy.com/setting-up-a-chameleon-cage/
http://www.muchadoaboutchameleons.com/2012/04/how-to-set-up-proper-chameleon.html

 

[LRosario]

Chameleon Info:

• Your Chameleon - Veiled Chameleon, Male, unsure of his age, he’s been with us exactly one week.
• Handling - Once every couple of days.
• Feeding - He is currently eating Crickets. He is eating about 6 in the morning time and I would say 3 or 4 in the evening. We currently have the crickets in a crate with the orange cubes provided from Petco.
• Supplements - Currently using ZooMed ReptiCalcium w/o D3 have used it 3x on the crickets in the last week. 1st time today using Reptivite from ZooMed on Crickets.
• Watering - Currently have a waterfall in the back setup, and a water dish under the bridge. We currently mist about 4x a day, for a couple of minutes. We’ve seen him drink a couple times the first few days. Not currently.
• Fecal Description - Definitely have seen poop droppings every day, I’d say like a dark brown? The rusted - (hopefully is the white ones) have also been consistent. A bit change in color at the end. He has not been tested for parasites.
• History - Unknown since he was purchased from Petco.

Cage Info:

• Cage Type - Screened Enclosure, 2.5x1.5x1.5
• Lighting - The Chameleon Starter Kit came with the Daylight Blue 60w and 5.0 UVB Reptisun. Currently unaware of the needed schedule so we have been leaving both on 24-7.
• Temperature - Cage floor - 73.8 to basking spot - -85.4 if measured with top branch / light temp is 103.8. Lowest temp in the house is 74 with fan, currently measuring cage temp with Infrared Thermometer.
• Humidity - Unaware of humidity levels, mist 4x a day. Sometimes the room fire alarm does beep and I believe it’s because of humidity.
• Plants - All fake plants and am using Exo-Terra Vines
• Placement - Cage is located in our bedroom underneath and air duct but does not hit it directly. Near the room door as well. 5’2” from the ground.
• Location - West Palm Beach, Florida.

Current Problem - We came home today to find him nestled in the branches with his eyes closed. Tried moving the trees and rubbing his sides for about 15 minutes until he opened his eyes. Definitely does not seem to be acting like himself (1st day brought home) I’ve noticed a lot of swaying when he walks or unsure of where to grab. Also some yawning? Please assist with feeding and lighting

 

[cruz.m]

Someone will review your husbandry shortly but he looks to be a male like you said. He needs a dripper it can be made or bought but chameleons don’t recognize still water, the waterfall is a nest for bacteria and it’s unnecessary and can be dangerous if the water is contaminated so I’d take it out. He needs calcium without d3 phosphorus free every feeding. I’d highly recommend getting a check up with the vet and a fecal done especially since he’s from petco. Everytime you mist make sure everything is dry and for 2-5+ minutes, unless your humidity is low you only need to mist once before lights turn on and once before lights turn off. If you over water bacteria can grow etc...So you need a 4x2x4 or bigger (2x2x4 is the minimum) you can get it from anywhere you can make it whatever you want as long as those are the measurements. You need an Arcadia 6% or a t5ho 5.0 linear uvb. The daylight bulb needs to be switched to an incandescent house bulb. Also how has he been sleeping? Lights must be on 12 hours and off 12 hours, chams need full darkness to sleep. For basking spot 80°f max. The fire alarm is a smoke detector so I doubt it’s humidity? You need all live plants for veileds and the exoterra vines need to be taken out ASAP since the material can come off if your cham rubs his eyes on it and get into his eyes. Someone else will review the rest of your husbandry but a vet visit with an experienced chameleon vet is what I’m encouraging

 

[ERKleRose]

My feedback and any questions will be in red. Also, remove the water bowl ASAP, it is not how they drink and just collects nasty stuff! Also remove the waterfall, fake plants, substrate, and plastic bridge/cage, too!

Chameleon Info:

• Your Chameleon - Veiled Chameleon, Male, unsure of his age, he’s been with us exactly one week.
• Handling - Once every couple of days. Why?
• Feeding - He is currently eating Crickets. He is eating about 6 in the morning time and I would say 3 or 4 in the evening. We currently have the crickets in a crate with the orange cubes provided from Petco. As stated, he needs appropriately sized feeders. He is small (I have no idea of age, I suck at aging them), so he should eat as much as he can right now. The orange cubes are a bad gutload, use the fresh ingredients (in appropriate amounts from each category) and/or the commercial gutloads from the gutload chart instead! Either feed all feeders the good gutload 24/7 or pick out all of the feeders you’ll feed off the night before to a few hours before feeding off to give them the good gutload. Variety is key for both feeders and gutload ingredients! Again, his feeding bowl needs to be in the upper third of his cage. I also would get a different feeding cup, whether it be a cup/tub, feeding gallery, feeder run, or feeder run cup, etc. (let us know if you need links to buy or DIY any of these).
• Supplements - Currently using ZooMed ReptiCalcium w/o D3 have used it 3x on the crickets in the last week. 1st time today using Reptivite from ZooMed on Crickets. You need to use the calcium without D3 on every feeder every feeding, except for using the Reptivite with D3, where you’ll use that on every feeder for one feeding once every two weeks. Every feeder (no matter the type- not just crickets) needs to be supplemented every feeding.
• Watering - Currently have a waterfall in the back setup, and a water dish under the bridge. We currently mist about 4x a day, for a couple of minutes. We’ve seen him drink a couple times the first few days. Not currently. Take the waterfall and water bowl out ASAP! They are both health hazards! Each misting session during the day should be a minimum of 2-5+ minutes long. Try to only mist in the morning and at night when the cage is cooler for your daytime mistings if your cage humidity levels allow it. For extra water intake during the day, you can make or buy a dripper and place it where it’ll drip over multiple leaves, not drip straight to the bottom.
• Fecal Description - Definitely have seen poop droppings every day, I’d say like a dark brown? The rusted - (hopefully is the white ones) have also been consistent. A bit change in color at the end. He has not been tested for parasites. Since he is from Petco, I’d take him to an experienced chameleon vet for a fecal float (bring a fresh fecal sample with you) and x-rays. If the vet recommends it, and it is safe for a chameleon of his size, I’d get bloodwork done, too. Make sure to drop off at least two more fresh fecal samples afterwards to make sure no parasites were missed.
• History - Unknown since he was purchased from Petco.

Cage Info:

• Cage Type - Screened Enclosure, 2.5x1.5x1.5 Once he becomes a juvenile, if not now, he’ll need a minimum cage size of 2’ x 2’ x 4’ tall, but preferably 4’ x 2’ x 4’ tall or bigger. Bigger is always better! Again, all of the substrate and all other cage furnishings on the ground need to be removed ASAP, along with all fake plants and Exo Terra vines (I’ll go into more detail about the last two in the plant section)!
• Lighting - The Chameleon Starter Kit came with the Daylight Blue 60w and 5.0 UVB Reptisun. Currently unaware of the needed schedule so we have been leaving both on 24-7. Sadly, all of that is very wrong and needs to be fixed ASAP! You need a T5 High Output linear light fixture either the length of, or a foot longer than, what his biggest enclosure will be. You’ll need either a linear Arcadia 6% (replace yearly) or a linear Zoo Med 5.0 (replace every six months) UVB bulb of the matching size to the fixture length to go with it. Definitely get a Solarmeter 6.5 if you can afford it! It’ll give you precise UVI readings, tell you if a linear UVB bulb is defective, and let you know when a linear UVB bulb actually needs to be replaced (when the readings are cut in half). Make sure the linear UVB bulb is 8-9” away from his basking branch. If he is a screen climber, you’ll need to raise his basking branch and the linear UVB bulb (hang/raise above the cage) up so he isn’t getting too much UVB. The UVI level at the screen for that should be no higher than 6! For his basking bulb, you’ll need a regular white light household incandescent bulb, not the blue bulb. You’ll have to play around with the wattages until you get the correct basking temp (80*F as the max for right now at his basking branch- make sure to measure this with a digital thermometer with a probe where his casque/top of his back is when he’s on his basking branch). Make sure the heat bulb is raised at least 7” away from him, preferably 8-9” or more. All lights (linear UVB, heat bulb, and any plant lights) need to be on for 12 hours and all off for 12 hours at night!
• Temperature - Cage floor - 73.8 to basking spot - -85.4 if measured with top branch / light temp is 103.8. Lowest temp in the house is 74 with fan, currently measuring cage temp with Infrared Thermometer. The MAX his basking spot should Be 80*F for now. Measure this with a digital thermometer with a probe where his casque/top of his back is when he’s on his basking branch. Is there any way to get lower nighttime temp drops?
• Humidity - Unaware of humidity levels, mist 4x a day. Sometimes fire alarm does beep and I believe it’s because of humidity. Knowing the humidity levels are crucial! It should be between 30-50% during the day and up to 100% at night. I’d get three thermometer-hygrometer combos and place one near the top of his cage, one in the middle of his cage, and one near the bottom.
• Plants - All fake plants and am using Exo-Terra Vines All fake plants need to go ASAP, as they are an impaction risk! You can hang them on the outside of his enclosure to give him more privacy. Replace all of the Exo Terra vines as well, they can cause health issues! You need live veiled-tested chameleon-safe plants only! Make sure to properly clean all plants before putting them in his cage, as well as covering the soil in the pots with rocks too big for him to eat or use screen. He needs TONS more live plants, real vines (and some fake without leaves if needed, just no Exo Terra vines), and branches of multiple diameters and species (just none from toxic or sap-producing trees) ASAP!
• Placement - Cage is located in our bedroom underneath and air duct but does not hit it directly. Near the room door as well. 5’2” from the ground.
• Location - West Palm Beach, Florida.

Current Problem - We came home today to find him nestled in the branches with his eyes closed. Tried moving the trees and rubbing his sides for about 15 minutes until he opened his eyes. Definitely does not seem to be acting like himself (1st day brought home) I’ve noticed a lot of swaying when he walks or unsure of where to grab. Also some yawning? Please assist with feeding and lighting Get him to an experienced chameleon vet ASAP, those are warning signs that something is wrong!

Please read through every link and the care images we‘ve posted for you! Let us know if you have any questions, need more clarification, etc!

 

[LRosario]

Okay so I have successfully changed out the ExoTerra Vines, Substrate, Waterfall and water dish!
Replaced with real plants and the dropper in the back.
After so much change, Yoda was able to treat himself to a hornworm and it was delicious

 

[ERKleRose]

Great progress, though mounting the vining plants (like the pothos) up high, along with getting a big centerpiece plant (like a more grown umbrella tree) would be better, as they’ll give instant coverage and more branches (umbrella tree) and add vines and coverage as they grow down (pothos and other vining plants). I would also take the dripper out from inside of the cage to free up room; you can put it straight on top of the cage or mount it above. Remove the bridge thing as well, chams are arboreal and live in the trees, not on the ground. The most crucial thing right now for your cage furnishings is getting some bigger plants to give your cham more coverage and privacy!

 

[ERKleRose]

Also make sure to get the proper lighting and start using supplements at the proper times ASAP! And make sure the dripper drops onto leaves, not dripping straight to the bottom

 

[cruz.m]

Okay so I have successfully changed out the ExoTerra Vines, Substrate, Waterfall and water dish!
Replaced with real plants and the dropper in the back.
After so much change, Yoda was able to treat himself to a hornworm and it was delicious

He needs more foliage and the dripper should be on the outside! Here’s a picture of how the enclosure should pretty much look like (chameleon academy website) and read this please (all modules) it also has pictures on the enclosure
https://chameleonacademy.com/veiled-chameleon-care/

 

[LRosario]

Yesss thank you so much! Working on the lighting situation next!

 

[LRosario]

Here is an update to Yoda

 

[cruz.m]

Here is an update to Yoda

You didn’t get the new light?