Misting
- Thread starter Jd♂️♂️
- Start date
DonKeesh
Chameleon Enthusiast
Depends on your light schedule... I would recommend offering water as soon as lights come on as that's when they drink dew in the wild. I mist for 2 min about 10 min before lights come on... Then 2 other 2 min sessions during the first hour of lights on. Dry out during day then mist for 2 min an hour before lights out. I also mist at night before fogger goes off. Check the chameleon academy schedule for a good foundation to start with. I personally would not wait until 1pm for their "first" drink.
Definitely gona change mine now
Klyde O'Scope
Chameleon Enthusiast
That depends on what you have to work with, and what your objective is.
If you have/use a dripper, daytime misting may not be necessary.
If you have/use a mister, nighttime misting may not be necessary.
What are your ambient humidities, target humidities, and type of enclosure (screen vs. hybrid)?
Bare floor vs. bioactive can also be a variable.
Because misters require (relatively more expensive) distilled or RO water, water conservation may come into play.
First thing I did was establish a misting duration—how long for everything to get misted & wet-down but not so much that it runs down the drain (wasted).
Next thing was establish how long it takes for the enclosure to dry out completely (necessary to avoid slimes, molds, fungus, gnats, mildew, etc.)
The rest depends on what needs to be done to achieve & maintain target RH. Lights-on & lights-off are popular times. Once or twice more if it's too dry and/or you don't use a dripper.
I don't use a fogger, so I mist several times throughout the night. Another way of saying that is that since misting a few times during the night gets my target humidities, I don't need a fogger.
I have a mistkingThat depends on what you have to work with, and what your objective is.
If you have/use a dripper, daytime misting may not be necessary.
If you have/use a mister, nighttime misting may not be necessary.
What are your ambient humidities, target humidities, and type of enclosure (screen vs. hybrid)?
Bare floor vs. bioactive can also be a variable.
Because misters require (relatively more expensive) distilled or RO water, water conservation may come into play.
First thing I did was establish a misting duration—how long for everything to get misted & wet-down but not so much that it runs down the drain (wasted).
Next thing was establish how long it takes for the enclosure to dry out completely (necessary to avoid slimes, molds, fungus, gnats, mildew, etc.)
The rest depends on what needs to be done to achieve & maintain target RH. Lights-on & lights-off are popular times. Once or twice more if it's too dry and/or you don't use a dripper.
I don't use a fogger, so I mist several times throughout the night. Another way of saying that is that since misting a few times during the night gets my target humidities, I don't need a fogger.
Casket_Case
Avid Member
I don’t even really mist just make sure he’s got water dripping all the time, and when I fill it up I’ll pour it through the top of the screen and it’ll splash onto the plants a bit :/ but even then it’s just like once a day
Edit: Oh you have a Mistking lol
bbyoda
Chameleon Enthusiast
I do 1.5 min just before lights on and 1.5 min before fogging my Veiled in the middle of the night so the fog "sticks" better. This seems to work with my setup since I don't have any flooding in my bioactive enclosure, my Chameleons are hydrated, my plants are happy and growing, and my cage dries out in the middle of the day so mold and fungus doesn't take over.
Klyde O'Scope
Chameleon Enthusiast
That doesn't change anything—It's still about attaining and maintaining target RH levels.
Could we see your enclosure ?
I was just saying I have one lol
bbyoda
Chameleon Enthusiast
Having one does make things much easier that's for sure!I was just saying I have one lol
Definitely… wann get a fogger one day ….
bbyoda
Chameleon Enthusiast
Sure! I'm still tweaking my Veiled's enclosure because his humidity is too high during the day. I'm considering moving the coroplast over to my carpet chameleons cage instead. It's just to keep them from seeing each other. I also need to prune because the umbrella plant is overgrown. Yoda is currently shedding and skulking for isopods. He's getting a Lil fat in the casque.
Looks beautiful
Attachments
Feel like you got attitude behind your words
Doesn’t change anything buddy you need to simmer down your attitude don’t comment if you got an attitudeThat depends on what you have to work with, and what your objective is.
If you have/use a dripper, daytime misting may not be necessary.
If you have/use a mister, nighttime misting may not be necessary.
What are your ambient humidities, target humidities, and type of enclosure (screen vs. hybrid)?
Bare floor vs. bioactive can also be a variable.
Because misters require (relatively more expensive) distilled or RO water, water conservation may come into play.
First thing I did was establish a misting duration—how long for everything to get misted & wet-down but not so much that it runs down the drain (wasted).
Next thing was establish how long it takes for the enclosure to dry out completely (necessary to avoid slimes, molds, fungus, gnats, mildew, etc.)
The rest depends on what needs to be done to achieve & maintain target RH. Lights-on & lights-off are popular times. Once or twice more if it's too dry and/or you don't use a dripper.
I don't use a fogger, so I mist several times throughout the night. Another way of saying that is that since misting a few times during the night gets my target humidities, I don't need a fogger.
bbyoda
Chameleon Enthusiast
@Klyde O'Scope is just very direct. It's hard to tell tone online. He has really great advice and knows a lot about more science-based things like lights, temps, hardware, etc. I've learned a ton from him and the questions he asks. He doesn't have an attitude. Just direct. And maybe a bit pedantic
(forgive me @Klyde O'Scope).I just don’t deal with it he will just get blocked I don’t need negative in my life@Klyde O'Scope is just very direct. It's hard to tell tone online. He has really great advice and knows a lot about more science-based things like lights, temps, hardware, etc. I've learned a ton from him and the questions he asks. He doesn't have an attitude. Just direct. And maybe a bit pedantic
Mountain Dragon
Chameleon Enthusiast
A little????@Klyde O'Scope is just very direct. It's hard to tell tone online. He has really great advice and knows a lot about more science-based things like lights, temps, hardware, etc. I've learned a ton from him and the questions he asks. He doesn't have an attitude. Just direct. And maybe a bit pedantic
