Mendez
Chameleon Enthusiast
Hi everyone, it's that time of the year when I log on to the forums and post some pygmy content!
Long story short, I hatched out 4 pygmy chameleons this past week!
Some more pics:
Here are the temporary grow-out enclosures.
Last year, I hatched out two pygmies (Brookesia superciliaris) by removing the eggs and placing them into a closed container (deli cup with lid) with a 1:1 ratio of water and vermiculite. This year, I hatched out these little guys by not doing anything...at all. These eggs hatched out in their parents' enclosure.
So now, I have these 4 little monkeys
But unlike last year, I only had hatchlings from one bloodline. This year, I got babies from a new bloodline, along with babies from my previous bloodline. I really hope that I can get both males and females this time so I can breed them and get F2 superciliaris!
This species really isn't difficult to keep. If you want pygmies, you should get some. There really needs to be more people working with this species in the future, if anyone wants to see this species established. It really is an easy species to work with IF you keep them individually. Why? I've done the experimenting so you don't have to (but I do encourage you to experiment with cohabbing opposite sexes under careful supervision). How I came to this conclusion is by having wild-caught females acclimated individually--as that is what has worked for me when dealing with wild-caught pygmies. Eventually, I'll pair them up. Occasionally, I will see mating behavior. Give them a week or two then separate. But I have also kept males and females together for longer and the females will get SUPER stressed over a prolonged period of time where they start shutting down and reverting back to looking like wild-caught animals. As soon as you separate them, the females' eyes will "un-sink" themselves and they will behave normally. Imagine cohabbing fresh imports, let alone an already acclimated pygmy. I believe this is why people have such a hard time working with superciliaris in particular.
If you understand their behavior, it's really easy to determine when they are stressed and when they are perfectly fine. The problem with pygmies is that most people cohab them without getting a baseline of normal, unstressed behavior.
So...do you want to work with pygmy chameleons? You should! It's honestly not that difficult. Just keep the individually. And source from reputable importers. I only have two bloodlines, and I wish more people worked with this species. My goal is to inspire others to simply get a pair or two. The more bloodlines we can establish and trade amongst each other, the better off this species will be.
Long story short, I hatched out 4 pygmy chameleons this past week!
Some more pics:
Here are the temporary grow-out enclosures.
Last year, I hatched out two pygmies (Brookesia superciliaris) by removing the eggs and placing them into a closed container (deli cup with lid) with a 1:1 ratio of water and vermiculite. This year, I hatched out these little guys by not doing anything...at all. These eggs hatched out in their parents' enclosure.
So now, I have these 4 little monkeys
But unlike last year, I only had hatchlings from one bloodline. This year, I got babies from a new bloodline, along with babies from my previous bloodline. I really hope that I can get both males and females this time so I can breed them and get F2 superciliaris!
This species really isn't difficult to keep. If you want pygmies, you should get some. There really needs to be more people working with this species in the future, if anyone wants to see this species established. It really is an easy species to work with IF you keep them individually. Why? I've done the experimenting so you don't have to (but I do encourage you to experiment with cohabbing opposite sexes under careful supervision). How I came to this conclusion is by having wild-caught females acclimated individually--as that is what has worked for me when dealing with wild-caught pygmies. Eventually, I'll pair them up. Occasionally, I will see mating behavior. Give them a week or two then separate. But I have also kept males and females together for longer and the females will get SUPER stressed over a prolonged period of time where they start shutting down and reverting back to looking like wild-caught animals. As soon as you separate them, the females' eyes will "un-sink" themselves and they will behave normally. Imagine cohabbing fresh imports, let alone an already acclimated pygmy. I believe this is why people have such a hard time working with superciliaris in particular.
If you understand their behavior, it's really easy to determine when they are stressed and when they are perfectly fine. The problem with pygmies is that most people cohab them without getting a baseline of normal, unstressed behavior.
So...do you want to work with pygmy chameleons? You should! It's honestly not that difficult. Just keep the individually. And source from reputable importers. I only have two bloodlines, and I wish more people worked with this species. My goal is to inspire others to simply get a pair or two. The more bloodlines we can establish and trade amongst each other, the better off this species will be.
very cool post!
Always wonderful when you drop in btw.
. The thing that fascinates me most at the moment is the “natural cyclus”. This has always been my big question, if it would be possible to let eggs hatch in a bioactive settings. Bro, you’re my hero 
I feel like the way I just pick them up and grab them would make anyone watching me nervous. Sometimes they will cooperate and grab onto my finger. But other times they will drop down and pretend to be dead. Then I have to pick them up like you would an m&m between your pointer finger and thumb. That's when it gets a little sketchy, but I'm pretty confident in my baby pygmy grabbing skills haha
