My Cham seems ill help...

[Elizadolots]

Poor baby, he just looks like it hurts to be him....

Is the light right on the cage top? If so, maybe move it up a couple of inches?

I think adding hydration can only be good. When you mist, don't think of it as spraying the chameleon, think of it as making it rain in the cage. Soak the top, soak the plants, get everything dripping.

When you get him feeling better, try him with smaller crickets. They move faster so might attract his attention better. It's just an idea.

 

[bugman]

just feed them what you feed the crickets. They eat most anything. What do you mean put the "sawdust" in where? That is not sawdust. It is usually sometype of meal or oats or something. They just live in there and they eat that also.

ahhh ok so they eat what is in the container they come in

 

[carol5208]

ahhh ok so they eat what is in the container they come in

but you still want to feed them some good vegetables and fruits also. When my chameleon would eat crickets I would gutload them and did not realize either that superworms could be gutloaded so I just kept them in the little container they came in and they would just survive on the what was in there.

 

[bugman]

wow...

thanks everyone I am very worried he is acting very strange I actually had him on my chest this morning and put two of his favorite supers on there and he ate so I am excited about that he also opened his other eye. I know that I am not out of the woods yet but feel a little better this morning I will run to the store to get the pedylite and force feed him some in a syringe. It is so cold outside today so I don't want to take him out of his environment but may have to to get him to the vet. Thanks for all the support I will keep you all posted on any developments good or bad. As for his diet I will be sure to dust the supers from now on and will pick up some silkies or horns at the show tomorrow

 

[bugman]

Poor baby, he just looks like it hurts to be him....

Is the light right on the cage top? If so, maybe move it up a couple of inches?

I think adding hydration can only be good. When you mist, don't think of it as spraying the chameleon, think of it as making it rain in the cage. Soak the top, soak the plants, get everything dripping.

When you get him feeling better, try him with smaller crickets. They move faster so might attract his attention better. It's just an idea.

I mist 4 times a day but I think that it may be cold for him since this time of year our climate can be in the teens I think I will get a heater for the water and let it run for 1.5 minutes vs the 1 minute I do currently 4 times daily. Lots to do today. I am off to the store!

 

[bugman]

Pictures of his cage..

I turned his lights off so I don't get any burn from them so here is his cage...

general overall shot of his cage

Here is the vines he can use to get to the upper lights if needed

 

[bugman]

taking electrolytes...

He is taking the electorlytes from he syringe I will give him as much as he wants throught the day and also give him a steam shower.

I am sad because he is not himself he actually is not trying to bite me but the opposite he is acting like a baby, kinda nice hope he is kinder to me if he gets better

both eyes are opening and he is showing signs of improvement but not out of the woods yet

I also purchased a water heater to heat his water and will be providing him with additional heat from a ceramic bulb but still need to try and figure this one out since it raises basking spot 20 degrees yikes. I have to place it purther away from the cage somehow but maybe at night when the heat is reduced to 57 I won't have the same rise but somehting more consistent with what he has in the day which is low 80's

again thanks for all your help I will keep everyone posted as one way or another.

 

[bugman]

Things are looking up...

He is becoming more active both eyes are looking great no more depression in them and they are open. He is moving around his cage and not sleeping his balance is also getting much better. I think we have turned a corner here! thanks everyone!!

 

[PrettyInInk87]

Yaaay! I'm so glad he's doing better.

 

[steelheadchaser]

I would also suggest at the least taking a fecal sample to the herp vet for a smear and float. A parasite load can put them off their food and make them act as you have described.

 

[kinyonga]

Glad to hear that your chameleon is improving!

I thought you might like to read this just in case there's something you are missing/not aware of...
Exposure to proper UVB, appropriate temperatures, supplements, a supply of well-fed/gutloaded insects, water and an appropriate cage set-up are all important for the well-being of your chameleon.

Appropriate cage temperatures aid in digestion and thus play a part indirectly in nutrient absorption. For a basking light you can use a regular incandescent household bulb in a domed hood. I use a double fluorescent fixture that has one regular fluorescent light in and one Reptisun 5.0 UVB tube light since that puts the temperature in the right range as well.

Exposure to UVB from either direct sunlight or a proper UVB light allows the chameleon to produce D3 so that it can use the calcium in its system to make/keep the bones strong and be used in other systems in the chameleon as well. The UVB should not pass through glass or plastic no matter whether its from the sun or the UVB light. The most often recommended UVB light is the long linear fluorescent Repti-sun 5.0 tube light that I mentioned above. Some of the compacts, spirals and tube lights have caused health issues, but so far there have been no bad reports against this one.

Since many of the feeder insects have a poor ratio of calcium to phosphorus in them, its important to dust the insects before you feed them to the chameleon with a phos.-free calcium powder to help make up for it.

If you dust twice a month with a phos.-free calcium/D3 powder it will ensure that your chameleon gets some D3 without overdoing it. It leaves the chameleon to produce the rest of what it needs through its exposure to the UVB light. (Some UVB lights have been known to cause health issues, so the most often recommended one is the long linear fluorescent Repti-sun 5.0 tube light.) D3 from supplements can build up in the system but D3 produced from exposure to UVB shouldn't as long as the chameleon can move in and out of it.

Dusting twice a month with a vitamin powder that contains a beta carotene (prOformed) source of vitamin A will ensure that the chameleon gets some vitamins without the danger of overdosing the vitamin A. PrEformed sources of vitamin A can build up in the system and may prevent the D3 from doing its job and push the chameleon towards MBD. However, there is controversy as to whether all/any chameleons can convert the beta carotene and so some people give some prEformed vitamin A once in a while.

Gutloading/feeding the insects well helps to provide what the chameleon needs....so its important too. I gutload crickets, roaches, locusts, superworms, etc. with an assortment of greens (dandelions, kale, collards, endive, escarole, mustard greens, etc.) and veggies (carrots, squash, sweet potato, sweet red pepper, zucchini, etc.) Other insects should be fed a diet appropriate to them (eg...silkworms get mulberry leaves or mulberry chow).

Calcium, phos., D3 and vitamin A are important players in bone health and other systems in the chameleon (muscles, etc.) and they need to be in balance. When trying to balance them, you need to look at the supplements, what you feed the insects and what you feed the chameleon.

Here are some good sites for you to read...
http://chameleonnews.com/07FebWheelock.html
http://web.archive.org/web/200605020...Vitamin.A.html
http://web.archive.org/web/200604210...d.Calcium.html
http://www.uvguide.co.uk/
http://raisingkittytheveiledchameleon.blogspot.com/
http://web.archive.org/web/200601140...ww.adcham.com/

 

[steelheadchaser]

Are you using a syringe with a ball tipped feeding tube? Properly used, this will make sure the liquid ends up in his stomach without any chance of aspiration. A vet or other individual with knowledge of chameleons should show you how to do it as well as suggest an appropriate amount of food. Doing it for the first time was a bit scary, even after proper instruction.

I have had success with the shower method others have mentioned. Give him a couple minutes to adjust and he should start opening his mouth. I would leave him in (with supervision) as long as he actively drinks.

 

[Elizadolots]

Good to hear things are looking up. They are remarkably resilient. Please post more pictures when he's all recovered. He's beautiful.

 

[bugman]

he is so much better...

Thanks everyone for your input I took it all into consideration and I am happy to say he is back to his old tricks. Although he still likes to keep that one eye shut when he opens it it looks fine maybe more hydration is needed it is so dry in this part of the country in the winter months.