My first Chameleon/cage
- Thread starter Jonatan
- Start date
Brodybreaux25
Chameleon Enthusiast
I see a few things that definitely need to be corrected, biggest of all is UVB.
Please fill out the “how to ask for help” form and post your answers back here. Quality pictures will help us help you.
Chameleon Info:
◦ Your Chameleon - The species, sex, and age of your chameleon. How long has it been in your care?
◦ Handling - How often do you handle your chameleon?
◦ Feeding - What are you feeding your cham? What amount? What is the schedule? How are you gut-loading your feeders?
◦ Supplements - What brand and type of calcium and vitamin products are you dusting your feeders with and what is the schedule?
◦ Watering - What kind of watering technique do you use? How often and how long to you mist? Do you see your chameleon drinking?
◦ Fecal Description - Briefly note colors and consistency from recent droppings. Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites?
◦ History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you.
Cage Info:
◦ Cage Type - Describe your cage (Glass, Screen, Combo?) What are the dimensions?
◦ Lighting - What brand, model, and types of lighting are you using? What is your daily lighting schedule?
◦ Temperature - What temp range have you created (cage floor to basking spot)? Lowest overnight temp? How do you measure these temps?
◦ Humidity - What are your humidity levels? How are you creating and maintaining these levels? What do you use to measure humidity?
◦ Plants - Are you using live plants? If so, what kind?
◦ Placement - Where is your cage located? Is it near any fans, air vents, or high traffic areas? At what height is the top of the cage relative to your room floor?
◦ Location - Where are you geographically located?
Current Problem - The current problem you are concerned about.
--------------
Please Note:
1 The more details you provide the better and more accurate help you will receive.
2 Photos can be very helpful.
Please fill out the “how to ask for help” form and post your answers back here. Quality pictures will help us help you.
Chameleon Info:
◦ Your Chameleon - The species, sex, and age of your chameleon. How long has it been in your care?
◦ Handling - How often do you handle your chameleon?
◦ Feeding - What are you feeding your cham? What amount? What is the schedule? How are you gut-loading your feeders?
◦ Supplements - What brand and type of calcium and vitamin products are you dusting your feeders with and what is the schedule?
◦ Watering - What kind of watering technique do you use? How often and how long to you mist? Do you see your chameleon drinking?
◦ Fecal Description - Briefly note colors and consistency from recent droppings. Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites?
◦ History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you.
Cage Info:
◦ Cage Type - Describe your cage (Glass, Screen, Combo?) What are the dimensions?
◦ Lighting - What brand, model, and types of lighting are you using? What is your daily lighting schedule?
◦ Temperature - What temp range have you created (cage floor to basking spot)? Lowest overnight temp? How do you measure these temps?
◦ Humidity - What are your humidity levels? How are you creating and maintaining these levels? What do you use to measure humidity?
◦ Plants - Are you using live plants? If so, what kind?
◦ Placement - Where is your cage located? Is it near any fans, air vents, or high traffic areas? At what height is the top of the cage relative to your room floor?
◦ Location - Where are you geographically located?
Current Problem - The current problem you are concerned about.
--------------
Please Note:
1 The more details you provide the better and more accurate help you will receive.
2 Photos can be very helpful.
Brodybreaux25
Chameleon Enthusiast
Jonatan
New Member
Ohh thanks !!!
Sorry , this isn´t my first language
Chameleon Info:
Its a Veiled Chameleon,Female,4 mounths, im with her a week ago.
I deal with her every day.
I feed in the morning 09:00, 5-7 crickets and 8-12 waxworms. The waxworms stay in a feeder .
Supplement just Calcium + D3 (EXOTERRA) , and clean the feeder every day.
I am watering the plants and the cage, and yes I see him drinking water through the plants and the glass. But I'll buy a dripper plant .
The poop is almost black, not too soft ,but wet. I did not test for parasites, but bought in a trust store.
I have no history for being a new chameleon.
Cage Info:
Its Glass cage (EXOTERRA) , 45-60-90.
Lighting , 1 Exoterra Reptile UVB 150 , 25W (desert UVB).
I turn on this lamp at 8:40 and turn off at 20:30.
The temperature is always between 22 and 30 degrees celcius
Humidity is always between 60% and 80%, just wetting the plants and terrarium.
I use analog hygrometer and analog thermometer (EXOTERRA).
Yes i use live plants , Asparagus,Nephrolepis,Alyssum,Begonia,Hibiscus,Vine branches.
The cage is one meter high from the ground, ventilated place, is in a room with little traffic.
Im Brazilian , but i live im Portugal - Lisboa.
Thanks !
Sorry , this isn´t my first language
Chameleon Info:
Its a Veiled Chameleon,Female,4 mounths, im with her a week ago.
I deal with her every day.
I feed in the morning 09:00, 5-7 crickets and 8-12 waxworms. The waxworms stay in a feeder .
Supplement just Calcium + D3 (EXOTERRA) , and clean the feeder every day.
I am watering the plants and the cage, and yes I see him drinking water through the plants and the glass. But I'll buy a dripper plant .
The poop is almost black, not too soft ,but wet. I did not test for parasites, but bought in a trust store.
I have no history for being a new chameleon.
Cage Info:
Its Glass cage (EXOTERRA) , 45-60-90.
Lighting , 1 Exoterra Reptile UVB 150 , 25W (desert UVB).
I turn on this lamp at 8:40 and turn off at 20:30.
The temperature is always between 22 and 30 degrees celcius
Humidity is always between 60% and 80%, just wetting the plants and terrarium.
I use analog hygrometer and analog thermometer (EXOTERRA).
Yes i use live plants , Asparagus,Nephrolepis,Alyssum,Begonia,Hibiscus,Vine branches.
The cage is one meter high from the ground, ventilated place, is in a room with little traffic.
Im Brazilian , but i live im Portugal - Lisboa.
Thanks !
I just read this post today while I was searching for information about your other thread.
I notice nobody gave you any answers to your husbandry information.
Female veileds can lay (infertile) eggs without having been mated...so it's important to have a laying bin in the cage at all times once she is sexually mature. You'll know when that happens because she will develop mustardy yellow splotches on her sides and blue dots. Not providing a proper place for her to dig can lead to egg binding and death.
Supplements...most of the feeder insects we use have a poor ratio of calcium to phos...so we dust the insects lightly at almost every feeding (just before feeding them to the chameleon) with a phos free calcium powder. To ensure they can use the calcium, we dust lightly with a phos free calcium/D3 powder and allow them to produce the rest of the D3 they need from their exposure to the UVB light we use on the cage. We also dust lightly twice a month with a vitamin powder that contains a beta carotene (prOformed) source of vitamin A. PrEformed sources of vitamin A and D3 from supplements can build up in the system and lead to health issues. If the chameleon needs more vitamin A it can be provided separately then in a prEformed source. The most often recommended UVB light is the Repti-Sun 5.0 long linear tube light.
I feed/gutload crickets, roaches, locusts, super worms with a variety of greens (dandelions, collards, endive, escarole, kale, etc) and veggies (carrots, squash, zucchini, sweet potatoes, sweet red peppers, etc.) and a small amount of fruit (berries, Apple, pear, melon, etc.).
I'm sorry I missed this thread when you first posted it.
I notice nobody gave you any answers to your husbandry information.
Female veileds can lay (infertile) eggs without having been mated...so it's important to have a laying bin in the cage at all times once she is sexually mature. You'll know when that happens because she will develop mustardy yellow splotches on her sides and blue dots. Not providing a proper place for her to dig can lead to egg binding and death.
Supplements...most of the feeder insects we use have a poor ratio of calcium to phos...so we dust the insects lightly at almost every feeding (just before feeding them to the chameleon) with a phos free calcium powder. To ensure they can use the calcium, we dust lightly with a phos free calcium/D3 powder and allow them to produce the rest of the D3 they need from their exposure to the UVB light we use on the cage. We also dust lightly twice a month with a vitamin powder that contains a beta carotene (prOformed) source of vitamin A. PrEformed sources of vitamin A and D3 from supplements can build up in the system and lead to health issues. If the chameleon needs more vitamin A it can be provided separately then in a prEformed source. The most often recommended UVB light is the Repti-Sun 5.0 long linear tube light.
I feed/gutload crickets, roaches, locusts, super worms with a variety of greens (dandelions, collards, endive, escarole, kale, etc) and veggies (carrots, squash, zucchini, sweet potatoes, sweet red peppers, etc.) and a small amount of fruit (berries, Apple, pear, melon, etc.).
I'm sorry I missed this thread when you first posted it.
Brodybreaux25
Chameleon Enthusiast
No fountains of any kind, they are biological time bombs.
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