My male veiled is burying himself and I don't have a good enclosure for him.

MissSkittles said:
Unless you’ve mated your chameleon, the eggs will be infertile…no babies. Chameleons lay (infertile) eggs every few months. There are ways to reduce egg production/laying, but first let’s get thru basic husbandry and all. If no one reviews your husbandry by the time I’m back on, I’ll do. Gotta run for now though. 🏃‍♀️
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Oh good to know thank you so much
 
Jpeff said:
You shouldn't spray him or take in shower. You don't want any colored lights red is bad for eyes. Your humidity is to high should be around 40 percent during day. You don't want to use meal worm or super worms as main food crickets better. Super worms are a treat they will stop eating and will only eat super if you give to much. They are like Crack to a chameleon
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Can i take him outside in the rain?
 
I’ll be putting my feedback in bold. I know that several things have already been addressed, but for my own sanity and simplicity, I’ll be covering everything which may repeat some stuff.
Chameleon Info:
  • Your Chameleon - Veiled chameleon, still looking for the sex,5 and a half months. 3 and a half months. I am pretty sure that you have a female, but without clearer pics can’t be 100% certain. Below are pics of my guy when he was about 4 months old…arrow points to his tarsal spur and you can see the vertical stripes that males have, along with a taller casque. I’m going to proceed under the assumption that you have a girl.
  • Handling - Only about 10 minutes a day to clean his/her cage.
  • Feeding - Meal worms super worms and only crickets a few times a month. 5-7 meal worms 3-4 super worms 5-6 crickets. No schedule. Putting vegetables in a cricket keeper with all the worms. So how often are you feeding? It’s a bit tricky at this age for feeding girls, as we want to make sure they get enough nutrition, but not too much where they produce a massive amount of eggs. Assuming you have a girl who is looking to lay her eggs at current, once she has achieved a successful laying, you’ll feed and hydrate her very well for a couple of days. Then you’ll start her on a diet of 3-4 feeders, 3 days a week (plus occasional treats). You’ll want to improve what you’re feeding as well as what you are feeding the feeders. Attachments on both and ask questions if needed.
  • Supplements - Only repti-calcium with d3 twice a month. This is great, but she also needs a good multivitamin twice a month and a calcium without D3 at every feeding. So for example, every Mon & Wed you’ll lightly dust with phosphorus free calcium without D3. Fridays on weeks 1 & 3, you’ll use calcium with D3 and Fridays on weeks 2 & 4 you’ll use a multivitamin. A good multivitamin is ReptiVite - just make sure to get the one without D3.
  • Watering - misting the enclosure 3 times a day and fogging 8-10 hours a night. Everyday misting 2-4 minutes. My chameleon does drink only if i spray him/her directly or if i slowly drop water on his/her nose or if in the shower. Usually we say not to directly spray your chameleon. Your misting frequency and duration is fine. Showers are not recommended except in extreme emergency as they are stressful and even a lukewarm one can be scalding to a cham. Also, this is a good place to tell you that many chameleons are very secretive about drinking. I have 5 chams and I’m yet to see any of them drink. Urates are white, so they are drinking enough. I’ll get into fogging a bit later.
  • Fecal Description - Black droppings watery and squishy,urates light-dark yellow with white tip. Never been tested for parisites because i can't find a reptile vet near me It’s always a good idea to have a wellness visit with a fecal check for all new animals…lizards included. Reptile/chameleon vets are often few and far between any many of us have some long drives to get to one.
  • History - Never moves except to eat,buries in the dirt,bulging eyes,and eats a lot. Really need some clearer pics.
Going to break this up into two parts. More to come.

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I believe a lot of this stuff has been covered already by others, but I’m going to repeat it. Not only will it keep me a bit sane but all the info will be in one place.
Cage Info:
  • Cage Type - glass cage with screen front. 3 ft x 1 and 1/2 ft x 1 and 1/2 ft. The minimum size for an adult is 4x2x2’ or equivalent. It is stressful for them to not have enough space.
  • Lighting - Zoo med dual lighting system,100 watt basking bulb,60 watt lamp bulb. Lamp bulb 6-8 hrs a day,basking bulb 30 mins a day. The standard for uvb is a linear T5HO fixture with either ReptiSun 5.0 or Arcadia 6% bulb. The fixture will need to be long enough to span the width of your enclosure and the bulb will need to be changed at least every year. Then you’ll want your basking area to be about 8-9” below the lights which will give the ideal uv index.
  • Temperature - Basking spot,80-90 degrees Fahrenheit. 65-70 degrees Fahrenheit. Zoo med dual analog temperature and humidity gauge. This is too hot and i suggest getting a digital thermometer with a probe end. Keeping our girls at no hotter than around 80 helps with reducing egg production. At night, having a significant temp drop is ideal.
  • Humidity - 50-60. misting and fogging.Zoo med dual analog temperature and humidity gauge. Too humid and again, get a digital gauge with a probe end. During the day ideal humidity range is between 30-50%. Here is where I’m going to talk about the fogger. If at night you are able to achieve consistent low temps of at least below 68-70 (preferably lower), then you can use a fogger to boost humidity up to 100%. This simulates the natural hydration chameleons get in the wild thru fog. You do not want to use a fogger if you aren’t able to achieve a decent temp drop at night. High heat plus high humidity is a recipe for respiratory infection.
  • Plants - live plants. fox tail fern and 3 others unknown. Hopefully all are live, safe and have been cleaned. Veileds and especially the veiled ladies like to eat their plants. They have been known to eat fake and then get a fecal impaction/obstruction. If you have any fake, you could attach them to the outside for extra privacy. Attaching fake plant list. Pothos is awesome! Do keep in mind that some of the more tropical plants will need a special plant light.
  • Placement - in front of window. On table above air vent. 6 ft off the floor. Perfect! Height = safety for chameleons.
  • Location - Stickleyville,Va

Current Problem - Burying,bulging eyes,doesn't move except when to eat,eats a lot.
I can’t tell you anything about the eyes without a good pic, and even then may not have any idea. However, since your cham hasn’t been getting any multivitamin, it’s possible that the eye problem is related to a vitamin deficiency. But still, need a pic.
I really believe that the burying is really digging to lay eggs. I’ll cover this process in a separate post.
If you do have a lady cham and she’s been full of eggs, she wouldn’t be moving very much. One thing about veileds, both male and female is that they can be eating machines that never seem to get sated. They are opportunistic about food and eating. They always look/act hungry and break our soft little hearts. We have to stay strong otherwise they can very easily become obese.
Ok, I’ve given you a lot to digest. If something isn’t clear, do ask questions. I have a few things to do and then will be back and go over egg laying stuff. :)
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Beman said:
Ok we need pics up close of the chameleon. I need to actually see it. The aquarium will not work and the lighting has to be upgraded. Along with a new cage...

Copy this and paste it into your reply then fill it out with detail. If you do not know specifics on something like supplements take pics of the labels and tell us how often your using it and how you are using it.


Chameleon Info:
  • Your Chameleon - The species, sex, and age of your chameleon. How long has it been in your care?
  • Handling - How often do you handle your chameleon?
  • Feeding - What are you feeding your cham? What amount? What is the schedule? How are you gut-loading your feeders?
  • Supplements - What brand and type of calcium and vitamin products are you dusting your feeders with and what is the schedule?
  • Watering - What kind of watering technique do you use? How often and how long to you mist? Do you see your chameleon drinking?
  • Fecal Description - Briefly note colors and consistency from recent droppings. Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites?
  • History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you.

Cage Info:
  • Cage Type - Describe your cage (Glass, Screen, Combo?) What are the dimensions?
  • Lighting - What brand, model, and types of lighting are you using? What is your daily lighting schedule?
  • Temperature - What temp range have you created (cage floor to basking spot)? Lowest overnight temp? How do you measure these temps?
  • Humidity - What are your humidity levels? How are you creating and maintaining these levels? What do you use to measure humidity?
  • Plants - Are you using live plants? If so, what kind?
  • Placement - Where is your cage located? Is it near any fans, air vents, or high traffic areas? At what height is the top of the cage relative to your room floor?
  • Location - Where are you geographically located?

Current Problem - The current problem you are concerned about.
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Please Note:
  1. The more details you provide the better and more accurate help you will receive.
  2. Photos can be very helpful.
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new chameleon owner888 said:
Ok i should have them on here about 7 tonight so keep a look out.
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You have a female. When she was digging did you leave her alone? She would have dug a tunnel and then backed into it with her head facing out to lay the eggs. Then she would have filled the hole back in. Did this happen? IF so you need to dig up and count how many eggs were laid. If there are no eggs. Then by the looks of her she is still holding them... And you need to make sure she has a proper lay bin asap... Do not bother her in this period of time unless you are feeding or watering her. They typically go off food when they dig and lay.

If she can not lay the eggs she can become eggbound.
https://www.chameleonforums.com/threads/laying-bin-set-up-educational-video.77225/

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