My new friend "Cammy"

[tBoNe]

Hi, this is tBoNe currently living in Minnesota, and loved tropical animals.
Our first owned reptile a 6-8 month Female Veiled Chameleon named CAMMY. She is very shy and sometimes pissy when I trying to handle her. She is a beauty, and we are very glad to have in our life. We also have a 46 gallon African chichlids and 5 year Mexican Red Knee Tarantula. I do however have a lot of questions about the chameleon. so be with me if I posting some nOOb? Thank you
I know it's a bad pics!!!

 

[Justin Carl]

Well, I'm not sure how much you know about veiled chameleons, but you should do some homework on proper husbandry and keeping female veileds.
Just use the search option.

 

[Julirs]

Welcome. If you would fill out this form we will be happy to fill in any husbandry gaps you may have...
Cage Info:
Cage Type - What kind of cage are you using? What is the size?
Lighting - What kind of lighting are you using? How long do you keep the lights on during the day?
Temperature - What temperature range have you created? Basking spot temp? What is the temperature at night?
Humidity - What are your humidity levels? How are you creating and maintaining these levels?
Plants - Are you using live plants? If so, what kind?
Location - Where is your cage located? Is it near any fans, air vents, or high traffic areas?

Chameleon Info:
Your Chameleon - The species, sex, and age of your chameleon.
Feeding - What are you feeding your cham? What amount? What kind of schedule? How are you gut-loading your feeders?
Supplements - What are you dusting your feeders with and what kind of schedule do you use?
Watering - What kind of watering technique do you use? Do you see your chameleon drinking?
Fecal Description - Briefly note colors and consistency from recent droppings.
History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you.
Current Problem - The current problem that you are concerned about.

 

[Brad Ramsey]

http://raisingkittytheveiledchameleon.blogspot.com/

Good Luck with her!
You've come to the right place for help.

-Brad

 

[tBoNe]

Ok here they are....



Cage Type - Exo Terra from petsmart. 18"W x 18"D x 24"H
Lighting - Basking heat adjusting heat with Inferred lamp. ESU Reptile Slimline Light Fixture with 18" Super UV Lamp (12 hours max daylight)
Temperature - low about 65F high 85F? At day I set it up for 81F, also I have a bottom heat pad that can be up to 70F of heat 8 x 12. Night time I'm lower the to 65F as well I turn it of the UV lamp.
Humidity - Maintaining the humidity always up to 50 percent, misting about 4 times a day. Waterfall fogger to keep the humidity.
Plants - Currently using plastic branches, vines, and mosses from petmart. Planning live pants in the near future because the plants contains better humidity level.
Location - Living in the minnesota ( very cold at this moment) Is near by the window close by the heater. As you see from the picture of my cham, she is also some closing by the television.


Your Chameleon - Yemen Veiled Chameleon, Female, 6~8 month
Feeding - Mostly Crickets some mealworms cover with calcium dust. Mealworms 3 times and up to 5 crickets daily bases.
Supplements - Jurassic Cal. Calcium Supplement
Watering - Waterfalls/ drinking fountain
Fecal Description - White/yellow blended. Some dark brown droppings.
History - Well the pet store from where i bought the cham, she was recently recover by the battle from the other cham.
Current Problem -I notice that she is missing some thumb on the left front foot.

 

[tBoNe]

here is the pics what i meant

 

[Zoey]

If the cage is glass, she should be switched into a screen cage soon

You should look into getting a Repti SUN 5.0 bulb.

The waterfall as far as I know is unnecessary.

If she is 6-8 months old, it also might be a good time to set up a place for her to lay eggs so if needed she doesn't become egg bound

Good luck with her.

 

[Julirs]

Ok here they are....

OK-not trying to be mean here, but this is exactly the completely wrong type of set up for a chameleon. Let me explain.

Cage Type - Exo Terra from petsmart. 18"W x 18"D x 24"H They should be in an all screen or partially screened in enlcosure.Lighting - Basking heat adjusting heat with Inferred lamp. ESU Reptile Slimline Light Fixture with 18" Super UV Lamp (12 hours max daylight) The fixture is perfect, but the bulb is not. Get a Zoomed Reptisun 5.0. Also-remove the plastic cover from the fixture, UVB cannot pass through glass or plastic.
Temperature - low about 65F high 85F? At day I set it up for 81F, also I have a bottom heat pad that can be up to 70F of heat 8 x 12. Night time I'm lower the to 65F as well I turn it of the UV lamp. No bottom heat or infrared. Chams will be fine unless nightime temps drop below 60. A regular HH bulb in a clamp lamp is great.Humidity - Maintaining the humidity always up to 50 percent, misting about 4 times a day. Waterfall fogger to keep the humidity. Kill the waterfall. They are bad bacteria breeding grounds.
Plants - Currently using plastic branches, vines, and mosses from petmart. Planning live pants in the near future because the plants contains better humidity level. Live plants all the way. I use a combo of fake and real.
Location - Living in the minnesota ( very cold at this moment) Is near by the window close by the heater. As you see from the picture of my cham, she is also some closing by the television.


Your Chameleon - Yemen Veiled Chameleon, Female, 6~8 month
Feeding - Mostly Crickets some mealworms cover with calcium dust. Mealworms 3 times and up to 5 crickets regulary.

Meal worms are a bad staple.​

Supplements - Jurassic Cal. Calcium Supplement You need essentially 3 supplements-Repcal Calcium withD3, without D3 and Herptivite-Search here for supplement schedules.
Watering - Waterfalls/ drinking fountain Bad as stated before.
Fecal Description - White/yellow blended. Some dark brown droppings. Yellow orange indicates dehydration.
History - Well the pet store from where i bought the cham, she was recently recover by the battle from the other cham.
Current Problem -I notice that she is missing some thumb on the left front foot.

She should heal from this.

Again-Pet stores are horrible about cham care-most know next to nothing. I followed Petstore care my first time out and the cham cooked in a glass cage and lived 4 days. This forum is full of long term breeders that can help you be sucessful. Please ask questions. If this cham is new you can maybe return many of the items. LLL Reptile and Big Apple Herp have much cheaper prices-order online.

 

[Julirs]

Here is an example of a chameleon cage setup. Substrate on the cage floor is considered bad as if they eat it it can lead to impaction.

 

[Brad Ramsey]

Please, please, please read this: http://raisingkittytheveiledchameleon.blogspot.com/
I don't have the time to address all the things that are wrong with your set-up.
Again, I'm glad you found the forums!!!

-Brad

 

[Dylan Dutz]

Sorry but your set-up is pretty bad. I don't want to sound mean, but you need the best for your cham. Check out Brad Ramsey's site!

 

[tBoNe]

Great info....But somehow my cham likes the mealworms somehow...i fed her everyday with my bare hands and she's going for it...I don't think mealworms are bad staple where they actually eat them. The waterfalls BTW I change the water once a week according what the box described I thought it was ok. But thanks for the great info.... I hoping to get some live plants today....any suggestions. Home depot got some nice plants.

 

[Julirs]

Mealworms are bad staples. Just becuase you love something does not mean it is good for you. The real cool thing about this forum is that you can learn from others mistakes, so do alot of reading. Changing the water everyday would not be enough. Good live plants are Pothos and Schefflera-wash them in soapy water, rinse well, and repot them to avoid bad soil, pesticides, and fertilizer.
Welcome to the forums and one of the harder animals to keep alive if you do things wrong! People here are passionate and it disturbs us to watch someone do the wrong thing. Since forum members have helped thousands of people, they have that best intention at heart.

 

[tBoNe]

Thanks you guys for helping me, but this site was my first visit/register and I had my cham about 2 weeks. I always wanted one, but before I got it, i had to do some research. Which I did. Once I got to the petstore and mention about my acknowledges, he suggested to me the basic setup....and again which I follow it. I don't see any problems with the cham she climbs, eats and going to branches to branches.


I visit ramsey's website for the first time today....and It kinda wanna makes my setup change. A great source to keep a cham happy...once again thanks to all for the info's

 

[Julirs]

The one thing you want to change ASAP is that UVB light. If you don't remove the cover and replace the bulb, your cham will develop MBD in a short period of time. Also remove the waterfall and the substrate. If you watch your temps you can change the other things over time.

 

[tBoNe]

kool I will do that....

 

[Brad Ramsey]

Thank You for being so open to learning how to do this correctly and making the right adjustments.
You may be able to return some of the things you bought that are not appropriate.

-Brad

 

[tBoNe]

Now it's time for some correction. I'm glad I came across to this website so I can have a healthy happy pet. Thanks to chameleonforum.com...i can't say enough ( I know it's annoying)lol

 

[Justin Carl]

I have been giving this to people a lot, so sorry for the other forum members that keep seeing this. I need a blog spot or something.

READ THIS!!!

Veiled and Panther Care sheet

HOUSING- Adult- With Veiled and Panther chameleons their seems to be a standard of 24(w) x24(d) x48(h). One chameleon per cage! These numbers can be tweaked slightly, such as width and depth. A chameleon cage can never be too high. I would try not to make your cage any less than 18x18, and this is if you don’t have any room. The cage should always be made up of screen. At least four sides (top, left, right, back and front) the top must always be screen because your light will be coming in from there. As far as the other four sides any choice off three is sufficient. I have found the best screen material to use is aluminum. It doesn’t rust or melt. It is also easier to see through and UV light enters the cage easier.
Juvenile- An average size juvenile cage is around an 18x18x36. This size cage is good until about the age of one year. If it is a large male you can upgrade sooner.
BABIES- newly born chameleons can be kept in a glass cage together for 7-8 weeks tops. After the age of two months they should be placed in a fully screened cage, and they can still be kept together. Once they are separated around the age of 2.5-3 months and sold they should be kept in a screen enclosure measuring 12x12x24-30. This should be suffice until the age of 6 months. Now it’s time to upgrade to a juvenile cage.
Safe Plants- Hibiscus-my favorite choice, Jasmine, Ficus Benjamina, Croton, Scheffelera Arobricola (Umbrella Plant), Photos, and Airplants. I have used all of these personally and I have found them easy to find and care for.
WATERING- most chameleons will not drink from standing water. There are rare cases that this occurs, but is not a substitute for proper watering. Proper watering should be done through a dripper all day and misting. I have found that the “Big Dripper” will go all day long if you have it dripping at one drop per second. Hand or automated misting should be done 2-3 times daily. You can use a spray bottle or buy a Pro Mist set-up for about 200$ and it does it by itself. Chameleons drink by shooting his/her tongue out at water droplets on leaves. Live plants are far superior to fake plants. They hold water droplets at the end of each leaf. Silk plants usually have the water drip off as soon as it makes contact. I have found that fake moss is a great way to supply water. If it is placed right under your dripper the water will run down to the tips of each piece. This is between 30-70 ends. Waterfalls and bowls help to harbor the growth of bacteria some of these bacteria can cause an Upper Respiratory Infection (URI), so they should be avoided at all cost.
HUMIDITY- The ambient humidity in the cage should be in the 40-50% range. With a spike of 70-80% during and after misting. This isn’t as true for Veiled Chameleons; they can be kept at a lower humidity. If you aren’t lucky enough to live in Florida a cheap humidifier from Walgreens will be fine. Try to stay away from foggers, as these can be frightening to your chameleon. Not to mention more expensive than a humidifier. Higher humidity also helps aid in the shedding process for your chameleon. Generally you will see an “explosive” shed when humidity is high. Meaning all the skin will come off at once. In lower humidity it may take days for it to come off.
LIGHTING- This is a huge area of concern to a chameleon’s health. UVB light helps with absorption of calcium to create strong bones. UVB also aids in the absorption and production of D3. Without proper UVB light a chameleon can develop MBD (Metabolic Bone Disease). The most fool proof light on the market is the Reptisun 5.0. studies have found it superior to the Reptiglo 5.0 for chameleons. Do not purchase the compact bulb. These have been known to cause eye problems, such as photo-kerato-conjunctivitis. Lights should be kept on for 10-12 hours a day. Chameleons can only absorb the UV from these lights close up. The maximum effective range is about ten inches. I have personally used the latest lighting on the market with great success, the Mercury Vapor Bulbs. They are an all in one, both heat and UVB output. The maximum effective range of these bulbs is over 12 inches. As far as temperature goes, Veiled’s are a little warmer about 95 basking temperature or what I call the “hot spot”. The “hot spot” temperature can be acquired using standard house light bulbs ranging from 45-75 watts. A household bulb admits UVA light that stimulates appetite. This should be the temperature in one area on the top of the cage and the rest should be in the 80’s. The rest of the cage should vary, and into the mid 70’s at the bottom. Panther’s should have a basking temperature around 90 degrees. Same goes for the cage having varying temperatures. Babies should always be cooler around 85 degrees max basking for both species. Remember nothing can compare to natural sunlight. The best time to put your chameleon outside is between 10 and 2 o’clock.
SUPPLEMENTING- This is a key factor in the survival of your chameleon. In captivity we do not supply the chameleon with enough feeders to meet the vitamin/mineral demands of a chameleon. So this is taken care of through dusting and gutloading. Most of the feeders we buy today are high and Phosphorous and low in calcium. There is only one way to take care of this problem. I like to use Herpcares cricket duster because it saves supplement and you don’t need to touch the feeder. Not every cricket needs to be dusted either, nor do they need to look like ghost from being covered in so much calcium. Gutloading is a term used when feeder insects are given food to eat that is rich in nutrients. There are several cricket foods on the market today that can be used. Try to stay away from potatoes because they are very high in phosphorous. There are 3 main supplements used today. My schedule looks like: Mondays and Thursdays- Calcium, Tuesdays and Fridays-Rep Cal Herptivite, Wednesdays and Saturdays- T-Rex Chameleon Formula or Mineral-All(indoor). A lot of people have their own schedule and tricks. I also rotate every week between Calcium with D3 and without D3. A chameleon can overdose and die from too much D3.
FEEDERS- Chameleons need a wide range of feeders to stay healthy. We as owners will never be able to supply them with what they would get in the wild. That is why having several staple feeders with proper supplements and gutloading is critical to the survival of captive chameleons. Some of my favorite feeders are; Crickets, roaches, super worms, Silkworms, hornworms, phoenix worms, butter worms, wax worms, and mealworms. Crickets will most likely be you main feeder, that being said they are very poor in nutritional value. They need to be gut loaded with a good cricket food and 2/3 of them should be dusted per feeding. Silkworms and hornworms are fantastic feeders; these can be placed in the cage and don’t need dusting. They are also ferocious eaters, so keep plenty of food available. Phoenix worms are great for juvenile and baby chameleons; they are high in calcium and do not need to be supplemented. They only grow to about ¾” so aren’t much good for adults.