My Veiled Chameleon is very agressive how can I prevent this

Your female is already showing her adult mature colors so she could produce eggs soon. You need an opaque container at least 12" deep x 12" x 8" filled with moist washed playsand IN her cage at all times now.

For females you have to be careful not to constantly overfeed them or you'll make them lay big clutches and she could develop MBD and other health issues and have trouble laying the eggs.


Why don't you answer the questions in the how to ask for help thread near the top of the health forum so we can see if everything is ok?
Here's the link....
https://www.chameleonforums.com/threads/how-to-ask-for-help.66/
 
I would like to say I think your right it may be female but I don't want you to mess with it too much right now though to find out 100%

Okay things to fix/get
  • Uvb light a linner bulb it will look like a tube and the hood for it hood remove the plastic cover on it.
  • You need to add more foliage to the top of the cage this is where they spend the majority of their time and will in turn make your Cham feel more comfortable add more branches up at the top as well this will help her be able to move around her home.
  • You need a laybin for her or she will become egg bound
  • An incandescent light for heat 60 watt is good you need to be able to measure the temperature at the basking spot low 80's is good for her age
How are you keeping the humidity up what is her misting schedule like? Have you seen her poop yet how does it look?

Here is a pic of my enclosure you can see like uvb light at the top reference and the foliage and pathways I was talking about
 

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Kristen99 said:
I would like to say I think your right it may be female but I don't want you to mess with it too much right now though to find out 100%

Okay things to fix/get
  • Uvb light a linner bulb it will look like a tube and the hood for it hood remove the plastic cover on it.
  • You need to add more foliage to the top of the cage this is where they spend the majority of their time and will in turn make your Cham feel more comfortable add more branches up at the top as well this will help her be able to move around her home.
  • You need a laybin for her or she will become egg bound
  • An incandescent light for heat 60 watt is good you need to be able to measure the temperature at the basking spot low 80's is good for her age
How are you keeping the humidity up what is her misting schedule like? Have you seen her poop yet how does it look?

Here is a pic of my enclosure you can see like uvb light at the top reference and the foliage and pathways I was talking about
Click to expand...
Have a uvb
 
Kristen99 said:
I would like to say I think your right it may be female but I don't want you to mess with it too much right now though to find out 100%

Okay things to fix/get
  • Uvb light a linner bulb it will look like a tube and the hood for it hood remove the plastic cover on it.
  • You need to add more foliage to the top of the cage this is where they spend the majority of their time and will in turn make your Cham feel more comfortable add more branches up at the top as well this will help her be able to move around her home.
  • You need a laybin for her or she will become egg bound
  • An incandescent light for heat 60 watt is good you need to be able to measure the temperature at the basking spot low 80's is good for her age
How are you keeping the humidity up what is her misting schedule like? Have you seen her poop yet how does it look?

Here is a pic of my enclosure you can see like uvb light at the top reference and the foliage and pathways I was talking about
Click to expand...
I already have a uvb is basking bulb needed how many crickets a day I don’t want to over feed I usually feed 8 a day thanks for help
 
Please fill this out and we can specifically see what you need and need to make changes on
Yes you need a basking light no color is better and what brand is you uvb I haven't seen one like that.. do you have the box and can I see a picture uva is different than uvb and full spectrum lighting does not mean uvb

Chameleon Info:
  • Your Chameleon - The species, sex, and age of your chameleon. How long has it been in your care?
  • Handling - How often do you handle your chameleon?
  • Feeding - What are you feeding your cham? What amount? What is the schedule? How are you gut-loading your feeders?
  • Supplements - What brand and type of calcium and vitamin products are you dusting your feeders with and what is the schedule?
  • Watering - What kind of watering technique do you use? How often and how long to you mist? Do you see your chameleon drinking?
  • Fecal Description - Briefly note colors and consistency from recent droppings. Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites?
  • History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you.

Cage Info:
  • Cage Type - Describe your cage (Glass, Screen, Combo?) What are the dimensions?
  • Lighting - What brand, model, and types of lighting are you using? What is your daily lighting schedule?
  • Temperature - What temp range have you created (cage floor to basking spot)? Lowest overnight temp? How do you measure these temps?
  • Humidity - What are your humidity levels? How are you creating and maintaining these levels? What do you use to measure humidity?
  • Plants - Are you using live plants? If so, what kind?
  • Placement - Where is your cage located? Is it near any fans, air vents, or high traffic areas? At what height is the top of the cage relative to your room floor?
  • Location - Where are you geographically located?

Current Problem - The current problem you are concerned about.

--------------

Please Note:
  1. The more details you provide the better and more accurate help you will receive.
  2. Photos can be very helpful.
 
Agree with all the info about minimal handling of your chameleon. I'm pretty new at this too, and understanding there are times you might eventually have to be able to remove him for cleaning I will tell you how I came to be able to handle my aggressive veiled:

First, I did very little with him while he became accustomed to his new home. If I put my hand in there he would hiss and lunge at me. I didn't want to be bitten but I did want him to learn to accept me, so the plan was to introduce my hand without touching him once a day for only a few seconds until he understood that the hand was intrusive but not dangerous. I always kept it below him and within 2-4 inches from him. I wore thin gloves at first because I need to not fear being bitten (he wold full on lunge attack when I put my hand in there and I did not want to reflexively pull away and accidentally teach him that attacks cause removal of hand.) I would stay rock steady while he tried to bite me. then, when he gave up the attack I would remove the hand and leave him be.

I paid attention to the colors I was wearing when doing this as some days he seemed more agitated than others and I believe bright shirts set him off.

Eventually his attacks became less enthusiastic and maybe I'd get a big hiss and just a small lunge. I eventually felt comfortable removing the gloves and only presented the back of my hand as there's no loose skin or flesh there for them to actually grip in a bite and their nose tends to just bounce off the surface of the hand, non painfully.

The best I ever got was reluctant acceptance and eventually willingness to take an insect from the back of my hand if I didn't get too close. This was huge because it meant my hand had something good to offer. We practiced hand feeding for quite a while. Hissing never went away but lunging did.

At about 8 months something interesting happened and he developed a strong interest in leaving his cage. This was our breakthrough because when I opened the cage he one day scrambled right out onto my hand looking to escape! At this point I discovered I liked it better when I couldn't handle him because he was always trying to jump on me to get out every time I opened the door. At times when he doesn't wish to leave his cage I may still het a hiss and a lunge...I wouldn't call him tame or friendly even, but he often will come out on h s own, and when I have to take him out he may do so reluctantly but I don't fear I'm over stressing him, he knows now what to expect.

I hope this helps you, and remember to keep handling to a minimum even when you are able! And slow is key!
 
Is the bulb a mercury vapor bulb? Basking bulbs are not essentially needed depending on the hot spot temperatures. I hope you are not talking about UVA when you say UVB, they are totally different.
 
CJ's Exotics said:
Is the bulb a mercury vapor bulb? Basking bulbs are not essentially needed depending on the hot spot temperatures. I hope you are not talking about UVA when you say UVB, they are totally different.[/QUOT
Ceycham said:
Agree with all the info about minimal handling of your chameleon. I'm pretty new at this too, and understanding there are times you might eventually have to be able to remove him for cleaning I will tell you how I came to be able to handle my aggressive veiled:

First, I did very little with him while he became accustomed to his new home. If I put my hand in there he would hiss and lunge at me. I didn't want to be bitten but I did want him to learn to accept me, so the plan was to introduce my hand without touching him once a day for only a few seconds until he understood that the hand was intrusive but not dangerous. I always kept it below him and within 2-4 inches from him. I wore thin gloves at first because I need to not fear being bitten (he wold full on lunge attack when I put my hand in there and I did not want to reflexively pull away and accidentally teach him that attacks cause removal of hand.) I would stay rock steady while he tried to bite me. then, when he gave up the attack I would remove the hand and leave him be.

I paid attention to the colors I was wearing when doing this as some days he seemed more agitated than others and I believe bright shirts set him off.

Eventually his attacks became less enthusiastic and maybe I'd get a big hiss and just a small lunge. I eventually felt comfortable removing the gloves and only presented the back of my hand as there's no loose skin or flesh there for them to actually grip in a bite and their nose tends to just bounce off the surface of the hand, non painfully.

The best I ever got was reluctant acceptance and eventually willingness to take an insect from the back of my hand if I didn't get too close. This was huge because it meant my hand had something good to offer. We practiced hand feeding for quite a while. Hissing never went away but lunging did.

At about 8 months something interesting happened and he developed a strong interest in leaving his cage. This was our breakthrough because when I opened the cage he one day scrambled right out onto my hand looking to escape! At this point I discovered I liked it better when I couldn't handle him because he was always trying to jump on me to get out every time I opened the door. At times when he doesn't wish to leave his cage I may still het a hiss and a lunge...I wouldn't call him tame or friendly even, but he often will come out on h s own, and when I have to take him out he may do so reluctantly but I don't fear I'm over stressing him, he knows now what to expect.

I hope this helps you, and remember to keep handling to a minimum even when you are able! And slow is key!
Click to expand...
thanks
Click to expand...
 
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