need help please not sure????? i am new to this
- Thread starter kidn180
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rubicsphere
New Member
Sounds like the white skin could just be sheddings.
reptoman
Avid Member
Welcome to the forums. You can gutload your crickets with a variety of vegetables - collard greens, carrots, squash, etc just avoid broccoli or spinach. Also put some fruit in with them - apples, bananas, pretty much any fruit you have around. Try doing a search for gutload and you will find a ton of information on that subject. You should also do some research on supplementing with calcium, vitamins, minerals. Hope this helps.
Elizadolots
New Member
You should click the thread at the top of this forum. There are valuable links which will give you tons of information.
reptoman
Avid Member
skully23
New Member
And/or fill this out...You seem to know nothing about the cham..white stuff around nose holes? if so sounds like over supplementing..if not its most likely shedding if it happens around whole body.
Cage Info:
* Cage Type - Describe your cage (Glass, Screen, Combo?) What are the dimensions?
* Lighting - What brand, model, and types of lighting are you using? What is your daily lighting schedule?
* Temperature - What temp range have you created (cage floor to basking spot)? Lowest overnight temp? How do you measure these temps?
* Humidity - What are your humidity levels? How are you creating and maintaining these levels? What do you use to measure humidity?
* Plants - Are you using live plants? If so, what kind?
* Placement - Where is your cage located? Is it near any fans, air vents, or high traffic areas? At what height is the top of the cage relative to your room floor?
* Location - Where are you geographically located?
Chameleon Info:
* Your Chameleon - The species, sex, and age of your chameleon. How long has it been in your care?
* Handling - How often do you handle your chameleon?
* Feeding - What are you feeding your cham? What amount? What is the schedule? How are you gut-loading your feeders?
* Supplements - What brand and type of calcium and vitamin products are you dusting your feeders with and what is the schedule?
* Watering - What kind of watering technique do you use? How often and how long to you mist? Do you see your chameleon drinking?
* Fecal Description - Briefly note colors and consistency from recent droppings. Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites?
* History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you.
* Current Problem - The current problem that you are concerned about.
Cage Info:
* Cage Type - Describe your cage (Glass, Screen, Combo?) What are the dimensions?
* Lighting - What brand, model, and types of lighting are you using? What is your daily lighting schedule?
* Temperature - What temp range have you created (cage floor to basking spot)? Lowest overnight temp? How do you measure these temps?
* Humidity - What are your humidity levels? How are you creating and maintaining these levels? What do you use to measure humidity?
* Plants - Are you using live plants? If so, what kind?
* Placement - Where is your cage located? Is it near any fans, air vents, or high traffic areas? At what height is the top of the cage relative to your room floor?
* Location - Where are you geographically located?
Chameleon Info:
* Your Chameleon - The species, sex, and age of your chameleon. How long has it been in your care?
* Handling - How often do you handle your chameleon?
* Feeding - What are you feeding your cham? What amount? What is the schedule? How are you gut-loading your feeders?
* Supplements - What brand and type of calcium and vitamin products are you dusting your feeders with and what is the schedule?
* Watering - What kind of watering technique do you use? How often and how long to you mist? Do you see your chameleon drinking?
* Fecal Description - Briefly note colors and consistency from recent droppings. Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites?
* History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you.
* Current Problem - The current problem that you are concerned about.
holy schmolly..... you guys are awesome....uh uh i will get back with you on some stuff i know.
she is female been in my care for about a month. her screen cage is 2x2x4 fake plants sitting on sons dresser about 3' high does have the fan on sometimes. misting about 3 to 4x daily at night temps about 75 day open blinds with 60w day bulb temp about 80 just set up drip system and feeding only crickets, they eat flukers orange cubes. don't really handle much when sunny outside i take her out there for a little while. also dust crickets with calcium powder. we are in tx fecal looks normal and humidity is moderate.
she is female been in my care for about a month. her screen cage is 2x2x4 fake plants sitting on sons dresser about 3' high does have the fan on sometimes. misting about 3 to 4x daily at night temps about 75 day open blinds with 60w day bulb temp about 80 just set up drip system and feeding only crickets, they eat flukers orange cubes. don't really handle much when sunny outside i take her out there for a little while. also dust crickets with calcium powder. we are in tx fecal looks normal and humidity is moderate.
SpinyFranky
New Member
First of congrats on getting a new chameleon, now lets get down to giving her an awesome life.
As stated above, white "powder" from the nose is sometimes an indication of over supplementation, if it looks flaky and skin like your chameleon is just shedding.
Cage wise she is good.
Are you running UVB in that cage? if so what kind and how old is the bulb? how many hours daily?
How are you measuring the temperatures inside the cage? are you using a digital thermometer?
The same question to humidity
The orange flukers cubes are more of a supplement to real gutloading, than an actual gut load by itself. I use: Carrots, Apples, Kale, Romaine, Escarole, Endive, Orange, Orange Juice, Honey. Most of it is either salad scraps or peelings from fresh veggies that I give directly to the crickets.
Since your chameleon is a veiled, which are known to eat plant matter - offer he some: Escarole, Kale, Romaine, even strawberries ( in moderation ) - that way she can get a good source of nutrients without relying on the crickets so heavily.
Hope this helps
feel free to send a PM with any more questions, though im sure many more people will chime in here.
S.F
As stated above, white "powder" from the nose is sometimes an indication of over supplementation, if it looks flaky and skin like your chameleon is just shedding.
Cage wise she is good.
Are you running UVB in that cage? if so what kind and how old is the bulb? how many hours daily?
How are you measuring the temperatures inside the cage? are you using a digital thermometer?
The same question to humidity
The orange flukers cubes are more of a supplement to real gutloading, than an actual gut load by itself. I use: Carrots, Apples, Kale, Romaine, Escarole, Endive, Orange, Orange Juice, Honey. Most of it is either salad scraps or peelings from fresh veggies that I give directly to the crickets.
Since your chameleon is a veiled, which are known to eat plant matter - offer he some: Escarole, Kale, Romaine, even strawberries ( in moderation ) - that way she can get a good source of nutrients without relying on the crickets so heavily.
Hope this helps
feel free to send a PM with any more questions, though im sure many more people will chime in here.S.F
reptoman
Avid Member
Put the fruit in with the crickets. Whatever your crickets eat is what you are feeding to your cham ultimately. Where in TX? I am in Richardson. I keep panthers but the general care and supplementation is very similar with veileds. let me know if you need any help. I will be happy to tell you what I have learned over the past couple of years.
Clifford
New Member
I dont think so. This usually is just salts.
Clifford
New Member
She is probably going to shed.
I would use fruits and vegetables as your gutload, rather than that Flukers stuff.
As a new chameleon owner, you might find Syn's FAQ blog useful: https://www.chameleonforums.com/blogs/syn/238-faq-starting-off-directory.html
Sandrachameleon also has very good stuff in her blog.
cambech
New Member
Careful with this stuff. It has D3 in it. I got into some trouble a while back with it. by gutloading with this you may be giving your girl way to much D3.
http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?pcatid=18441&pvid=71791&productnum=0033222
VeiledOwner87
New Member
the best way is to make your own gut load "salad", i would lean towards cricket dry gutload because many keepers in this forum use that along with fresh fruits and veggies. i have never used it though. if it looks like white skin around her nose then she may be starting a new shed. but it may also looks like a white crust, which is an indication of over supplimenting with calcium. chameleons tend to deposit excess calcium and what not through their nose and through their urates. but powder calcium is a slight bit tougher to digest then liquid, which is why you LIGHTLY dust your crickets. its faster to be deposited through the nose then the digestive system.
How old is your chameleon?
Once she is sexually mature its important to have a place in her cage for her to dig in case she produces eggs....they don't have to mate to produce them...and failure to lay the eggs can lead to eggbinding.
You can gutload crickets, roaches, locusts, superworms, etc. with a wide variety of greens (dandelions, kale, collards, endive, escarole, mustard greens, etc.) and veggies (carrots, squash, sweet red pepper, sweet potato, zucchini, celery leaves, etc.)
Since most of the feeder insects have a poor ratio of calcium to phos. I dust at most feedings with a phos.-free calcium powder.
I dust twice a month with a phos.-free calcium/D3 powder to ensure that the chameleon gets some without overdoing it. I leave it to produce the rest of the D3 from its exposure to the UVB light. D3 from supplements can build up in the system and cause problems. As long as a chameleon can move in and out of the range of the UVB it should not over-produce D3 from the light.
I dust twice a month with a vitamin powder that has a beta carotene source of vitamin A. Beta carotene (prOformed) sources of vitamin A will not build up in the system like prEformed sources will but there is controversy as to whether all/any chameleons can convert it so some people give a little prEformed once in a while. Excess prEformed vitamin A may prevent the D3 from doing its job and push the chameleon towards MBD.
Calcium, D3, vitamin A and phos. are all important in bone health and need to be in balance. When balancing them you need to look at what you feed the chameleon, what you feed to the insects and what you supplement with.
Here are some good sites with good information...
http://web.archive.org/web/20060502...rnals.com/vet/index.php?show=5.Vitamin.A.html
http://web.archive.org/web/20060421.../index.php?show=6.Vitamin.D3.and.Calcium.html
http://chameleonnews.com/?page=article&id=102
http://www.uvguide.co.uk/
http://raisingkittytheveiledchameleon.blogspot.com/2007/12/keeping-female-veiled.html
http://raisingkittytheveiledchameleon.blogspot.com/
http://adcham.com/
Once she is sexually mature its important to have a place in her cage for her to dig in case she produces eggs....they don't have to mate to produce them...and failure to lay the eggs can lead to eggbinding.
You can gutload crickets, roaches, locusts, superworms, etc. with a wide variety of greens (dandelions, kale, collards, endive, escarole, mustard greens, etc.) and veggies (carrots, squash, sweet red pepper, sweet potato, zucchini, celery leaves, etc.)
Since most of the feeder insects have a poor ratio of calcium to phos. I dust at most feedings with a phos.-free calcium powder.
I dust twice a month with a phos.-free calcium/D3 powder to ensure that the chameleon gets some without overdoing it. I leave it to produce the rest of the D3 from its exposure to the UVB light. D3 from supplements can build up in the system and cause problems. As long as a chameleon can move in and out of the range of the UVB it should not over-produce D3 from the light.
I dust twice a month with a vitamin powder that has a beta carotene source of vitamin A. Beta carotene (prOformed) sources of vitamin A will not build up in the system like prEformed sources will but there is controversy as to whether all/any chameleons can convert it so some people give a little prEformed once in a while. Excess prEformed vitamin A may prevent the D3 from doing its job and push the chameleon towards MBD.
Calcium, D3, vitamin A and phos. are all important in bone health and need to be in balance. When balancing them you need to look at what you feed the chameleon, what you feed to the insects and what you supplement with.
Here are some good sites with good information...
http://web.archive.org/web/20060502...rnals.com/vet/index.php?show=5.Vitamin.A.html
http://web.archive.org/web/20060421.../index.php?show=6.Vitamin.D3.and.Calcium.html
http://chameleonnews.com/?page=article&id=102
http://www.uvguide.co.uk/
http://raisingkittytheveiledchameleon.blogspot.com/2007/12/keeping-female-veiled.html
http://raisingkittytheveiledchameleon.blogspot.com/
http://adcham.com/
Elizadolots
New Member
Just noting that the original poster didn't use the word "holes" when mentioning the white skin on the nose...it might just be a bit of excess shed at the tip of the nose.
Kidn, ultimately you'll want to do some reading on supplementation. Vitamin D3--as I understand this--is necessary to allow the body to utilize calcium. Vitamin D-3 can be gotten in 2 ways: the body can process it after exposure to sunlight or it can be ingested as a supplement.
If the body processes it, it is impossible to over do the amount of Vitamin D-3. The body just won't do it. However, if the Vitamin D-3 is being ingested, it is possible to over do it. And, too much D-3 can inhibit the way the body processes other vitamins.
So, the general thought here is that D-3 supplements should be used somewhat sparingly. Every day would be too much. I'd suggest you switch to another gel water for your crickets and use something else as food. Fluker's basic (not the high calcium) cricket food doesn't seem to have D-3 in it. If your only resource is a Pet Smart, you should be able to find Fluker's basic water gel and feed there. The gel water is a must, the dry feed might be a part of your routine. Most here feed their crickets a variety of green vegetables and fruits. There's a link in the "Basic Husbandry" thread at the top of this forum that addresses supplementation. I recommend it.
Kidn, ultimately you'll want to do some reading on supplementation. Vitamin D3--as I understand this--is necessary to allow the body to utilize calcium. Vitamin D-3 can be gotten in 2 ways: the body can process it after exposure to sunlight or it can be ingested as a supplement.
If the body processes it, it is impossible to over do the amount of Vitamin D-3. The body just won't do it. However, if the Vitamin D-3 is being ingested, it is possible to over do it. And, too much D-3 can inhibit the way the body processes other vitamins.
So, the general thought here is that D-3 supplements should be used somewhat sparingly. Every day would be too much. I'd suggest you switch to another gel water for your crickets and use something else as food. Fluker's basic (not the high calcium) cricket food doesn't seem to have D-3 in it. If your only resource is a Pet Smart, you should be able to find Fluker's basic water gel and feed there. The gel water is a must, the dry feed might be a part of your routine. Most here feed their crickets a variety of green vegetables and fruits. There's a link in the "Basic Husbandry" thread at the top of this forum that addresses supplementation. I recommend it.
ok thanks everyon for the help...well she was just shedding for the concern people. i get the d-3 now and will us it sparingly however where i live at it is starting to get warmer and sunnier so i am taking her outside for a couple of hrs with plenty of water and shade to hide if nec.
Elizadolots
New Member
I'm sure she'll love going outside! I think I'd be close by in case something like a cat or big bird wants to investigate.
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