Need help... veiled not eating.
- Thread starter dmaizer
- Start date
pssh
Avid Member
If you aren't going to follow our advice, then don't ask for it.
Like is said before, hang SEVERAL feeding cups at different levels.
You can also try usig plastic tweezers to stick the food in his mouth. Do not handle him at any time! This will only make him stressed out.
Or again, you can take him to the vet. You can't give up hope because you haven't done anything to try and help him. The cage he is in is HUGE, he probably can't find his food.
Like is said before, hang SEVERAL feeding cups at different levels.
You can also try usig plastic tweezers to stick the food in his mouth. Do not handle him at any time! This will only make him stressed out.
Or again, you can take him to the vet. You can't give up hope because you haven't done anything to try and help him. The cage he is in is HUGE, he probably can't find his food.
jojackson
New Member
Have you tried just leaving the poor bloody thing the hell alone mate? From the sound of your post, it seems you've been harrassing him everyday since you got it.
You havent left it alone to settle in, its stressed.
If theres activity and movement in the room, or/and it cant hide (it cant, you dont have enough plants, easy access to the floor, a dripper) ,including you panicking over it, waving bugs in its face, its not going to feel any better.
Get some plants, add a branch or two from the floor, add a dripper, provide food and leave it be for a few days. 1 cup or 40 wont make it eat if its stressed out.
It may not eat while your there.
p.s did you ask what it was eating before? provide variety.
Incidently, it wont starve to death so quickly. Relax, dont go shoving bugs in its face (force feeding), you'll just make matters worse.
You havent left it alone to settle in, its stressed.
If theres activity and movement in the room, or/and it cant hide (it cant, you dont have enough plants, easy access to the floor, a dripper) ,including you panicking over it, waving bugs in its face, its not going to feel any better.
Get some plants, add a branch or two from the floor, add a dripper, provide food and leave it be for a few days. 1 cup or 40 wont make it eat if its stressed out.
It may not eat while your there.
p.s did you ask what it was eating before? provide variety.
Incidently, it wont starve to death so quickly. Relax, dont go shoving bugs in its face (force feeding), you'll just make matters worse.
Destiny
Member
the tempertures are way too hot that might be part of the problem...... it also might be that he's still getting used to his environment. Whe i first got my gecko he didn't eat for two weeks i had to hand feed him. if you take a little dripper with water and drop about one drop of water on his nose. if that doesnt help try hand feeding him that should work.
dmaizer
Avid Member
what should temp. and humd. be at? and red heat light? cage temp during the day 86.3 and humd. is 50 -60? new uvb and new temp and humd. gauge. the old temp and humd werent working right. hopefully he will start eating. and how can i keep the humd. up? and is it ok when i mist the cage the temp. drops to 75 for 5- 10 mins?
panthercham
New Member
Have you tried just leaving the poor bloody thing the hell alone mate? From the sound of your post, it seems you've been harrassing him everyday since you got it.
You havent left it alone to settle in, its stressed.
If theres activity and movement in the room, or/and it cant hide (it cant, you dont have enough plants, easy access to the floor, a dripper) ,including you panicking over it, waving bugs in its face, its not going to feel any better.
Get some plants, add a branch or two from the floor, add a dripper, provide food and leave it be for a few days. 1 cup or 40 wont make it eat if its stressed out.
It may not eat while your there.
p.s did you ask what it was eating before? provide variety.
Incidently, it wont starve to death so quickly. Relax, dont go shoving bugs in its face (force feeding), you'll just make matters worse.
This is the best advice you have receive so far so listen to it....
Leave him alone! If he is drinking and not dehydrated then let him settle....he will be fine if he is drinking.
Mine took a good 5- 10 days of being left alone and in privacy before they ate and settled in. In the original questions you said he is in a medium traffic area, maybe you can cover 1 or 2 sides of his cage with a towel so he feels safer and cant see so many humans. He looks frightened and stressed in the photos you posted.
You got a fiscus that is a great start for hiding.....1, 10 or 100 feeding cups wont matter, if he is stressed and frighten he wont eat and dont force feed him yet that will only stress him more and by changing things and being in his space wont help but jusdt unsettle him. He sees you as a predator at the moment.
Now that he has a fiscus and some coverage just let him get used to his surroundings
renzo0684
Avid Member
These questions were answered already!
Lighting - two sun glo 150 w, tight beam, and one uvb light.
Use a 40 watt bulb for heat and a 5.0 repti-sun or a 5.0 repti-glow bulb for uvb
Temperature - 85- 95.Lowest overnight temp? 70-75. How do you measure these temps? Temp. gauge
You want the warmest basking spot 80-85 and the lower part of the cage 75. Over night can drop into the mid to upper 60's
Humidity - What are your humidity levels?50- 60. How are you creating and maintaining these levels? Trying to maintain humidity. What do you use to measure humidity? A humidity gauge
you want it at a constant 50%. When you spray it should raise to at least 70% and stay above 60% for an hour after watering.
Plants - artificial plants , And vines. No live plants
Placement - medium traffic area.
get some live plans in there, pothos are great, umbrella plants, hibiscus (spelling)
Location - Where are you geographically located? Chicago , Illinois
Chameleon Info:
Your Chameleon - veiled chameleon , male, and 5 months old . How long has it been in your care? 6 days
Handling - How often do you handle your chameleon? No handling
Feeding - What are you feeding your cham? Cricket, mealworms. What is the schedule? Every two days. Cricket food, fluker’s cricket quencher
Ditch the meal worms they can cause your cham to get backed up. Gut load with collard greens.
Supplements - sticky tongue farms. Every two weeks
Supplements should be like this
Week1- M-F calcium
Sat-nothing
Sun-Calcium with D3
Week2- M-F calcium
Sat- Nothing
Sun- multivitamin
Week3 Repeat week1
Week4- repeat week2
Watering - What kind of watering technique do you use? Dripping system on the top of the cage. How often and how long to you mist? 4 times a day. Do you see your chameleon drinking?
Spraay 4-5 times a day for 5 minutes each time
Fecal Description - Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites? Not sure.
what does his poop look like?
History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you.
Current Problem - he has not been eating or drinking.
I would also take Jo's advice it makes a lot of sense. As I think back to when i got my cham it took him a while to start eating on a regular basis...
panthercham
New Member
panthercham
New Member
i covered one side with a towel. thanks alot
Great
Just remember...Being a first time cham owner can be just as stressful on you as it is on the cham
If it doesn't start eating soon, the best thing is to take it to the vet.
What type (spiral, compact, long linear tube) and brand is the uvb light.
You said you use fluker’s cricket quencher to feed the insects...I don't like commercial products like this and prefer to use greens (dandelions, kale, collards, endive, escarole, etc.) and veggies (carrots, squash, sweet potato, sweet red pepper, zucchini, etc.) for crickets, superworms, etc.
Its recommended to use three supplements...a phos.-free calcium at most feedings, a phos.-free calcium/D3 powder lightly twice a month and a vitamin powder with a beta carotene source of vitamin A twice a month lightly.
You said your chameleon isn't drinking...have you tried dripping water slowly on the end of his nose?
What type (spiral, compact, long linear tube) and brand is the uvb light.
You said you use fluker’s cricket quencher to feed the insects...I don't like commercial products like this and prefer to use greens (dandelions, kale, collards, endive, escarole, etc.) and veggies (carrots, squash, sweet potato, sweet red pepper, zucchini, etc.) for crickets, superworms, etc.
Its recommended to use three supplements...a phos.-free calcium at most feedings, a phos.-free calcium/D3 powder lightly twice a month and a vitamin powder with a beta carotene source of vitamin A twice a month lightly.
You said your chameleon isn't drinking...have you tried dripping water slowly on the end of his nose?
