New and Seeking Some Help

[McBoredFace]

Hi my name is Brooke and my new best friend’s name is Durnehviir. Named after an awesome dragon from my favorite video game. I’m going to fill out the health info you have here and ask questions from there.

• Your Chameleon - Jackson’s Chameleon, Male, and I’m not quite sure about the age. I’ve had him for 2 months and the pet store said he was probably around 8 months but I’m not so sure. How can I tell? I’ll post a good picture of him so if you can tell or give me an idea that would be awesome.
• Handling - surprisingly he loves to explore and chill on my hand, arms, face, head, body every single day for at least 5 mins-60mins around 4-5 times a day and almost every night I take him out and he falls asleep on me and maybe an hour or so later I gently put him back in his favorite sleeping spot.
• Feeding - I feed him 5-6 large crickets a day. Always in the morning. And I gut load them with Flunkers orange cube “complete cricket diet” and Flunkers cricket quencher “calcium fortified” now is that okay or should I change that?
• Supplements - once every few days I dust the crickets with repti calcium “without d3” and they gave me these drops for the water but it says it’s for tap water and I would never give him the undrinkable shit they have in philly. So he gets the bottled water I drink which is usually Dasani.
• Watering - I have one of those water misting things that sprays the same bottled water for 8 seconds 8 times a day. I also have a spray bottle that I mist his enclosure mostly every time I really see it dry and a lot more spraying on the leaves he drinks from. It’s been difficult finding a good steady place for him to drink from so whenever I spray I find a leaf and will keep spraying until he comes over to drink (if he’s thirsty, I never force him) and he’ll drink that way. I’m sure he drinks when I’m not watching too. But it’s highly unlikely since how much he drinks when I’m giving him water. I tried getting one of those BioBubble Reptile Drinking fountain but he never caught on to it and crickets kept jumping in...
• Fecal Description - Never had him tested for parasites but I’m trying to find a vet for a check up but I’m having trouble getting a straight answer if these people have ever handled a chameleon before. Most just keep saying they take exotic pets... but his feces is very good and healthy. I read up on that post and it looks just like the healthy good one. Brown poop and the white slimy urate.
• History - No other history or knowledge since I got him from a petstore. But in a post I saw I did comment about how a few of the employees have experience in chameleons and the habitats they were in weren’t perfect but not abusive to the animal.

Cage Info:

• Cage Type - I’ll take a picture because I’m not sure. I threw out the box...
• Lighting - Both uvb and the blue sun light thing are on 10 hours a day in the winter. And 14 in the summer. At night both are off. For extra heat if he needs it during the day I add one of those red lights.
• Temperature - thermometers on the bottom middle and top on the enclosure. It’s between 75-82 F during the day and around 62 at night.
• Humidity - I have a thermometer that detects humidity too but honestly I’m having problems figuring out how to keep it humid in a screen cage and not a tank. The pet store said a fogger is too much. I put a shower curtain around the outside of the cage except the door side but I’m not sure if that helps?
• Plants - no live plants yet. After I show a picture of his enclosure im hoping you can help me figure out which live plants you think might be best for him. For his happiness and look wise as well.
• Placement - it’s on a table in our top bedroom with beautiful sun light from the sun roof and in the corner. So medium height and we have no other pets at the moment. Just me and my bf. And he only goes near him when we’re relaxing on the couch and Durnehviir climbs on him. We do plan of getting a dog and cat but when we do they won’t be allowed anywhere near him. If you have any advice on making sure he’s isolated from them that would help to.
• Location - I live in Philadelphia Pennsylvania
• All I want to do is keep Durnehviir happy and healthy for as long as possible. So any advice on that and what exactly I can buy or make to make this happen would be appreciated. Funds are not an issue when it comes to my little soul sucking cuddly dragon<3
• Also the pictures of where his enclosure is is only temporary because I’m moving today into the new place where he’ll have a nice beautiful room on the top floor with amazing natural sun light and a sun roof.

 

[McBoredFace]

He’s more pictures I thought got posted

 

[McBoredFace]

And another. After we move and get settled I want to build him one of those huge enclosures out of an old cabinet or something and next to that I want to make a free range little play ground kinda thing for him in the room. It’s basically going to be his room and my bf’s art studio. I’m giving up a gaming room for him lol I’ll still play games in there but it’ll look less like a gamer room and more like a jungle lol

 

[McBoredFace]

Okay! So let me know what you think! Thank you for your help and concerns!

 

[blue_cham]

Welcome Brooke! I love how enthusiastic you are Which is great news for Durnehviir

I will start by saying, I can tell the petstore gave you common advice (common from petstores) that is not 100% correct or adequate. This happens quite a bit. I got my boys from a reptile expo and even there, I was given bad advice.

Second... by the time I finishing typing and post, I will not be surprised if someone else has too, lol. So apologies, but I have the morning off, so what the heck!

Third, you probably already saw this, but the forums has caresheets. This is the one for Jacksons: https://www.chameleonforums.com/care/caresheets/jacksons/

Okay, lets do this...

Feeding - I feed him 5-6 large crickets a day. Always in the morning. And I gut load them with Flunkers orange cube “complete cricket diet” and Flunkers cricket quencher “calcium fortified” now is that okay or should I change that?

Amount is not too bad. Some people do feed every day, at his age he would be okay with every other day at about 8-10 crickets according to the caresheet. Members on the forum will highly suggest a variety of feeders too. Flukers is not a recommended gut load, not very nutritious. It will keep the crickets alive, but wont make them nutritious for your cham. There are some premades like Cricket Crack, if you compare the label to Flukers, you can see the difference in ingredients. Or you can research homemade recipes, use fresh veggies and fruits (that are safe) and some people do a combination of both or switch between brands to give variety.

Supplements - once every few days I dust the crickets with repti calcium “without d3” and they gave me these drops for the water but it says it’s for tap water and I would never give him the undrinkable shit they have in philly. So he gets the bottled water I drink which is usually Dasani.

This is the biggest change needed. Jacksons are what are called a montane species, and they tend to be more sensitive to certain supplements. Hopefully a more Jacksons experienced can give you specifics. But you will need to cycle in a d3 supplement and a multivitamin. The caresheets describe how often, but hopefully a Jacksons person will jump in here

Watering - I have one of those water misting things that sprays the same bottled water for 8 seconds 8 times a day.

Spoiled little guy getting Desani, lol. Thats perfectly fine for him to drink but I'd recommend RO or Distilled water, because it will decrease mineral build up and make your equipment last longer. Misting times should be much longer. Two minute misting sessions are generally the minimum recommended, this allows good water buildup on the leaves and allows chams to do some self eye cleaning if they desire. This should also help your humidity levels. It's okay for the cage to dry out in between, in fact it's good. As long as humidity is up. A constantly wet change can lead to health issues.

I’m sure he drinks when I’m not watching too. But it’s highly unlikely since how much he drinks when I’m giving him water.

As long as your automated mister is pointed at the leaves, he will have chances to drink. If he is rushing over to drink or drinking for long periods of time though, then he is not getting enough throughout the day.

Cage Type - I’ll take a picture because I’m not sure. I threw out the box...

What are the measurements/dimensions of the cage?

Lighting - Both uvb and the blue sun light thing are on 10 hours a day in the winter. And 14 in the summer. At night both are off. For extra heat if he needs it during the day I add one of those red lights.

What strength is the UVB bulb? If you don't have box still, it should say somewhere on the bulb itself. I haven't heard much about the blue sun... is it a heat bulb? Red is not recommended, you will do best with a white light heat bulb (honestly not sure why, but it's what I've read on the forums tbh...). The temperature looks about right for a juvenile so your wattage of bulb might be okay, but will need to increase as he ages into an adult. Whatever bulb you use though, make sure to do a hand test. If you can't hold your hand at the basking spot without discomfort, it's too hot for the cham. For younger chams that like to climb on the screen, you want to make sure the screen closest to the light is also not to hot to burn.

Humidity - I have a thermometer that detects humidity too but honestly I’m having problems figuring out how to keep it humid in a screen cage and not a tank. The pet store said a fogger is too much. I put a shower curtain around the outside of the cage except the door side but I’m not sure if that helps?

Yes, screen is tricky. Live plant will help A LOT tho. A fogger is okay if used correctly. If it's pipped into the cage, you can put it on a timer between misting, and just let it run in one area of the cage, so the cham is not forced to be in contact with mist if he does not want to. Or you can get a cool mist humidifier (the kind sold for people). I have one set up next to my cages for dry seasons. Some people turn them into diy foggers Also, I see you wrapped with towels on the cage, try plastic instead. Should retain moisture better in the cage. You can buy shower curtains cheap and cut to size

Plants - no live plants yet. After I show a picture of his enclosure im hoping you can help me figure out which live plants you think might be best for him. For his happiness and look wise as well.

Plants are great. This safe plant list usually recommended : https://flchams.com/chameleon-safe-plant-list/ . Pothos ivy is a number one with cham keepers. The leaves are nice and broad for drinking, hardy, and grow into a vine. You will find that water droplets last longer on real plants than plastic too. Anything on the safe list that does well in shade to partial shade is good. If you want sun loving plants, you will need a special light.



Sorry for my long windedness! I'm still fairly new, but hopefully I hit on the basic stuff and someone else can help more on things like Jackson supplements. Excited you are on the forums! Hopefully you will share Durnehviir's pictures as he develops, would love to see more of him

 

[JacksJill]

Welcome to the forum. I'll put my answers in bold.

• Your Chameleon - Jackson’s Chameleon, Male, and I’m not quite sure about the age. I’ve had him for 2 months and the pet store said he was probably around 8 months but I’m not so sure. How can I tell? At about a year he will stop getting longer, start to shed in patches and not all at once. It's not very exact but gives you an estimate.I’ll post a good picture of him so if you can tell or give me an idea that would be awesome. He's cute.
• Handling - surprisingly he loves to explore and chill on my hand, arms, face, head, body every single day for at least 5 mins-60mins around 4-5 times a day and almost every night I take him out and he falls asleep on me and maybe an hour or so later I gently put him back in his favorite sleeping spot. His going to sleep on you could be him stressing out and shutting down or where you are is too dark and he thinks it's night time. Check this link out for more info http://www.chameleonbreeder.com/podcast/ep-6-chameleons-and-stress/
• Feeding - I feed him 5-6 large crickets a day. Always in the morning. And I gut load them with Flunkers orange cube “complete cricket diet” and Flunkers cricket quencher “calcium fortified” now is that okay or should I change that? You can do a lot better by making a gut load of fresh or fresh frozen fruits and vegetables. This list will get you started.
  Suggested Ingredients
  Best - These gutloading ingredients are best because they are highest in calcium, low in phosphorus, oxalates and goitrogens. They should be the primary components of your gutload: mustard greens, turnip greens, dandelion leaves, collard greens, escarole lettuce, papaya, watercress and alfalfa.
  
  Good - These gutloading ingredients are good because they are moderately high in calcium and other vitamins/minerals. They should be used in addition to those from the previous category: sweet potato, carrots, oranges, mango, butternut squash, kale, apples, beet greens, blackberries, bok choy and green beans.
  
  These fresh fruits and vegetables can be combined with dry gutload mixes or home made mixes for optimal well-rounded nutrition. Dry ingredients can include: bee pollen, organic non-salted sunflower seeds, spirulina, dried seaweed, flax seed and organic non-salted almonds.
• Supplements - once every few days I dust the crickets with repti calcium “without d3” and they gave me these drops for the water but it says it’s for tap water and I would never give him the undrinkable shit they have in philly. So he gets the bottled water I drink which is usually Dasani. He will need a small amount of D3 monthly. https://www.chameleonforums.com/care/caresheets/jacksons/
• Watering - I have one of those water misting things that sprays the same bottled water for 8 seconds 8 times a day. I also have a spray bottle that I mist his enclosure mostly every time I really see it dry and a lot more spraying on the leaves he drinks from. It’s been difficult finding a good steady place for him to drink from so whenever I spray I find a leaf and will keep spraying until he comes over to drink (if he’s thirsty, I never force him) and he’ll drink that way. I’m sure he drinks when I’m not watching too. But it’s highly unlikely since how much he drinks when I’m giving him water. I tried getting one of those BioBubble Reptile Drinking fountain but he never caught on to it and crickets kept jumping in...Save this for when you need to go on vacation other wise it is too messy and dirty for regular use.
• Fecal Description - Never had him tested for parasites but I’m trying to find a vet for a check up but I’m having trouble getting a straight answer if these people have ever handled a chameleon before. Most just keep saying they take exotic pets... but his feces is very good and healthy. I read up on that post and it looks just like the healthy good one. Brown poop and the white slimy urate.
• History - No other history or knowledge since I got him from a petstore. But in a post I saw I did comment about how a few of the employees have experience in chameleons and the habitats they were in weren’t perfect but not abusive to the animal.

Cage Info:

• Cage Type - I’ll take a picture because I’m not sure. I threw out the box...
• Lighting - Both uvb and the blue sun light thing are on 10 hours a day in the winter. And 14 in the summer. At night both are off. For extra heat if he needs it during the day I add one of those red lights. You don't need to buy the expensive pet store lights for heat you can use a regular incandescent bulb 40-60 watt should work for a Jackson's
• Temperature - thermometers on the bottom middle and top on the enclosure. It’s between 75-82 F during the day and around 62 at night.
• Humidity - I have a thermometer that detects humidity too but honestly I’m having problems figuring out how to keep it humid in a screen cage and not a tank. The pet store said a fogger is too much. I put a shower curtain around the outside of the cage except the door side but I’m not sure if that helps? Live plants will help maintain daytime humidity and you can wrap 2-3 sides of the cage with clear plastic shower curtain to help retain humidity. A cool mist humidifier would be good for a few hours over night only it is too much for the heat of the day and makes things swampy for took much bacterial growth.
• Plants - no live plants yet. After I show a picture of his enclosure im hoping you can help me figure out which live plants you think might be best for him. For his happiness and look wise as well. Pothos rock they are cheap and hard to kill. Plant Link
• Placement - it’s on a table in our top bedroom with beautiful sun light from the sun roof and in the corner. So medium height and we have no other pets at the moment. Just me and my bf. And he only goes near him when we’re relaxing on the couch and Durnehviir climbs on him. We do plan of getting a dog and cat but when we do they won’t be allowed anywhere near him. If you have any advice on making sure he’s isolated from them that would help to.
• Location - I live in Philadelphia Pennsylvania
• All I want to do is keep Durnehviir happy and healthy for as long as possible. So any advice on that and what exactly I can buy or make to make this happen would be appreciated. Funds are not an issue when it comes to my little soul sucking cuddly dragon<3 The University of Penn. small animal hospital has an exotics department. It's where I got my training a million years ago. They may only take referrals but you can call and get a recommendation at the least if not an appointment.
• Also the pictures of where his enclosure is is only temporary because I’m moving today into the new place where he’ll have a nice beautiful room on the top floor with amazing natural sun light and a sun roof. Good luck with your move. He will travel well in a dark box with something secure to cling on to.

 

[McBoredFace]

Thank you guys all so much for you feedback! You’ve been extremely kind and helpful! I super appreciate it. When I first came on here and was checking out posts I saw a lot of rude people and started getting nervous. Waiting to hear people freak out on me for buying him before doing more research and such >_< but again you’ve been really nice and the most help I’ve had so far. So thank you thank you thank you! As soon as I move him over to the new place tomorrow the towel is coming off the cage and a plastic shower curtain is going on (the towel is only there now because the shower curtain I was going to cut is packed up lol) but yeah and I’ll also stop and get a pothos plant and look at humidifiers and the vitamins! When I go food shopping I’ll get the food for the guy loading as well.I’m going to read the Jackson’s care sheet now too. Again did I say thank you? :3

 

[McBoredFace]

I’m going down each list you e helped me with and writing a check list for everything I need to get him or can do now and will make sure it’s done tomorrow and give an update. Btw the cage is I think a little bigger than the recommended size. And if you see the pictures of his place I wanted to ask do you think he has too much in there? I always thought it was too crowded or it’s good cause he has a lot of hiding spots. I’m not sure :/ I just want the best for him and I can tell when I first got him he was stressed but he rarely shows that side of him anymore so at least that’s good. But I’m still glad you’ve helped me so I can do even more

 

[blue_cham]

I’m going down each list you e helped me with and writing a check list for everything I need to get him or can do now and will make sure it’s done tomorrow and give an update. Btw the cage is I think a little bigger than the recommended size. And if you see the pictures of his place I wanted to ask do you think he has too much in there? I always thought it was too crowded or it’s good cause he has a lot of hiding spots. I’m not sure :/ I just want the best for him and I can tell when I first got him he was stressed but he rarely shows that side of him anymore so at least that’s good. But I’m still glad you’ve helped me so I can do even more

I understand what you mean about being nervous about posting. I am still really new myself. But just try to remember that everyone is here to help. Most "rude" comments tend to just be people trying help. I think I understand why some more experienced keepers may get frustrated with us newbies , but if you are open to constructive criticism and having a dialogue, they really do want to help you with your cham. We are all here for our little dragons

Good luck on your shopping trip! Make sure you keep us updated. I am glad you were not scared away by all of the things thrown at you.

As for the foliage density in the cage... what do you think @JacksJill ? Since you have a Jackson in your profile pic I've heard Jackson's don't care for as much density as panthers, because they may get horns caught, but not 100% sure

 

[McBoredFace]

Yeah I figured everyone just wants to help but I was posting in an old forum about petco or something and all I said was the chameleons at the one I bought mine aren’t as bad as what they were saying it was like and how at least 3 workers there had a chameleon before and some knowledge. And they started flipping out at me saying I’m ignorant and was defending petco! Lol I hate big Corp and everything they stand for! But Jesus! Haha but yeah I’ll take any constructive criticism and all the help I can get as long as I’m not rudely being told I’m an anaimal abuser :/ but yeah you guys are really chill. I’ll definitely give updates and more pictures while I’m setting things up and even afterwards.
Also you said you didn’t have a Jackson’s, what kind do you have?

 

[blue_cham]

Ahhh yes... Big chain petstores, that is definitely a topic I just steer clear from. I do know what you mean. A chameleon experienced employee or manager really can make a huge difference, if only it was procedure to have one in every store. Used to be one at our Petco, he's a cool guy. Now he works at the reptile specialty store, ha! I have two male Panthers. A Nosey Be named Pidge, and an Ambilobe named Blue (he was five months old in my thumbnail pic, now about 10 months). Why isn't the Nosey named Blue? It's a long story, lol.

I love the Jackson's though, so cool looking. I haven't the room for another (thats what I keep telling myself), but I'm reading up so I'm ready when the time comes

 

[VerucaSalt]

We have a likely similiarly aged male Jackson, so I'll share the few tidbits I keyed on that others have mentioned.by now I'm sure

He needs to have a multi vitamin and calcium with D3 mixed into your license every other week, so maybe the first and third Mon of each month use the d3 fortified calc and the 2nd and 4th use the multi vitamin.

Another thought I've had in reading and rereading Jackson specific care, would be potentially dusting with the reg calc with no D3 only every other day as over supplementation can be more of a concern with the Jacksons.... but, with that said, I'm not that expert at their husbandry to know if that is a safer bet for their supplementation or not.

Another point to address, tho you've mentioned it as tho it's past tense, no waterfalls/fountains....they're no buemo for Chams. Misleading advertising often shows them using these, it's a bacterial hazard extremely fast, esp with crickets.

Misting time should be in minutes-plural, it may help to get or make a dripper. We run our dripper 10-20 mins 3 times daily (i catch run off below at the bottom of the cage and dump immediately after watering time) along with hand spraying, and automatic misting. If you get live safe plants in there, it wont make a pool in the bottom of your cage, if you think of it reversed--would you only want to drink 2-3 times daily?

Gut load--we also were told flukers orange cubes were all.the crickets needed--its true! It's all the crickets need, but not at all what the Cham needs. There are several ready made feeds for them like cricket crack, flchams or joshes frogs sell this, or it's easy to make your own per the many care sheets here.

Diversify foods!! Superworms, bsfl larvae, wax worms, mantis, leaf bugs, Dubai roaches, orange caynon isopods, there are so many, some should be a treat, but others like the Dubai can serve as better staple if your guy is interested. Crickets carry a lot of parasites, esp from the pet store chains, dubais are a superior feeder in comparison, tho my guy is still being stubborn on eating more than one each time we reintroduce. They are all very different tho, yours may prefer these. @jamest0o0 is actually exyreextr expierenced and really helpful in his expierence specifically with this as well as live bioactive enclosures and beautifully planted vivs!!

Vet info--a fecal and annual check up is a great way to start off his health and first year. Easy and relatively inexpensive for how much enjoyment we get from sharing their space.

You sound like you are passionate and excited which makes me happy he founf you!! I wish you lots of luck! These forums def saved my lil guy, and the ppl who have offered advice have helped more than they likely are aware as well!

 

[VerucaSalt]

Also, my lil Gus is extremely social as well. He prefers to be out of his cage and lunges to be on you thru the day as well, tho when he's presented with a chance to be outside, he will nearly jump to sit on his outside plants lol. I don't have hair cage planted as heavily as others do, but, he also has never gotten stuck and I've seen him hunt behind many places I was sure he'd never get back out of on his own lol.

 

[jamest0o0]

@McBoredFace sorry that was me man, I didn't really mean to attack you. Just that we already had a discussion on another thread about petco/smart and I was just throwing it out there that there's no use trying to justify anything they do. Didn't mean it as a personal insult. Tbh I barely read the post.

 

[JacksJill]

As for the foliage density in the cage... what do you think @JacksJill ? Since you have a Jackson in your profile pic I've heard Jackson's don't care for as much density as panthers, because they may get horns caught, but not 100% sure[/QUOTE]
I put a lot of foliage in my jackson's cages. I've never had a problem with horns getting caught but I do see them rub them on things when they are shedding that may look like they are getting caught up. The live plants do a good job of stabilizing the humidity levels and creates pockets of humidity they can retreat to if needed.

 

[makkatfloof]

One little thing I will bust in real quick and suggest is a really nice sized lilac plant. That has BY FAR been the best plant for humidity that I have had. I went through a bunch of plants without no change and now that I started doing lilacs, it’s helped A LOT. Idk what it is about them, but they give off the humidity really well. Plus, the little flowers that grow will sometimes give your cham a lil snack lmao.

 

[McBoredFace]

I’m about to head off and start buying everything I need now, thank you guys! You’ve been a huge help! But as for feeding him variety... I’ve tried and I can’t get him to eat anything but crickets and meal worms! He’s being a little stubborn lately plus he’s about to shed. But I’ll try again.
And @jamest0o0 its okay, I know people get very passionate about That topic so I understand haha and thanks for all the help. I should’ve came here first instead of trying to look it up on my own lol
Oh and our old neighborhood was too loud and lots of traffic so now that we live on a nice quiet street it’s his first time outside enjoying real sunlight! He freaked out a little at first and his color is dark but he’s slowly enjoying it and even started basking on my hand. I think he likes the new place a lot more too

 

[McBoredFace]

Hey so today I noticed a weird yellow spot on Durnehviir. It doesn’t look like anything bad. But it’s not part of his pattern. Does anyone know if it might be something that could turn bad? I’m worried ((

 

[McBoredFace]

 

[McBoredFace]

As you can see the other side is what his normal pattern is. And this yellow spot isn’t part of his normal color pattern...