New baby panther

cooney2340

New Member
Hello all,
I just got my baby female panther on the 1st of november.. she has finally stopped pacing her terrarium but she still hasn't eaten but she has pooped twice. She also did start a shed yesterday. I bought her from petco though and I wanna take her into a vet as soon as I can to get her checked out but I don't want to put her under anymore stress. When can I take her to a vet? Should I be concerned that she hasn't eaten but has pooped twice?
 
Hey there welcome to the forum. Can you post some pics of your baby and of the cage including the lighting on top? Depending on her size you may not be feeding small enough insects or the right type. Or it could have to do with something in the enclosure set up. She is now at the point where she has to start eating. Depending on age they eat anywhere from 2-3 dozen insects a day very easily when they are young.

Per taking her to a vet. Depending on size I would hold off on this if she is very young. It can be extremely stressful but also if she is too small it can be very hard to treat them. If you go to a vet that does not know what they are doing then it can be very dangerous with a baby that is too small.
 
So I'm an idiot and bought the kit that literally everyone does not recommend... also we were having a hard time with humidity control... we live in Northern Illinois and we're about to be in the super dry months. We bought acrylic pieces from home depot to set up so we can have a bit more control... any help with her enclosure would be greatly appreciated!! Also I keep getting conflicting information about whether mesh or glass is better... I know they need ventilation but I keep reading that if you have a hard time controlling the environment then a combo of mesh and glass is preferred. When I swap out her terrarium should I get a glass/mesh combo?

I am lucky enough to live somewhat close to an exotic animal vet... they are about 40 minutes away from me.

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Hi and welcome to the forum! You are not an idiot!!! Many fall into the chameleon kit trap. So glad you landed here though everyone is great and knowledgeable!! I would recommend a full husbandry review, I’ll attach the form below you can copy and paste with your answers.
As for some of your questions: I would take the chameleon kit box off the enclosure it may be scaring your little one. The y are solitary and territorial so looking at another chameleon is a big stress. You can wrap it with a shower curtain and tape for now. I recommend a hybrid or screen cage, no glass. I live in Ny so our winters are brutal as well.
Remove the bottom layer of gravel, bare bottom is best unless fully bioactive. Remove the water glass and use a water bottle with a pin hole on bottom place on top of the cage to make a dripper. They don’t recognize standing water usually and lick off the leaves. Lastly are you confirmed that’s a female? Her tail base will be deciding if you have a photo. Sorry I ramble sometimes. The husbandry form will make it much easier for the experienced to keep it nice and neat. Lol

Chameleon Info:
  • Your Chameleon - The species, sex, and age of your chameleon. How long has it been in your care?
  • Handling - How often do you handle your chameleon?
  • Feeding - What are you feeding your cham? What amount? What is the schedule? How are you gut-loading your feeders?
  • Supplements - What brand and type of calcium and vitamin products are you dusting your feeders with and what is the schedule?
  • Watering - What kind of watering technique do you use? How often and how long to you mist? Do you see your chameleon drinking?
  • Fecal Description - Briefly note colors and consistency from recent droppings. Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites?
  • History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you.

Cage Info:
  • Cage Type - Describe your cage (Glass, Screen, Combo?) What are the dimensions?
  • Lighting - What brand, model, and types of lighting are you using? What is your daily lighting schedule?
  • Temperature - What temp range have you created (cage floor to basking spot)? Lowest overnight temp? How do you measure these temps?
  • Humidity - What are your humidity levels? How are you creating and maintaining these levels? What do you use to measure humidity?
  • Plants - Are you using live plants? If so, what kind?
  • Placement - Where is your cage located? Is it near any fans, air vents, or high traffic areas? At what height is the top of the cage relative to your room floor?
  • Location - Where are you geographically located?
 
Hello and welcome! Chameleon's tongues are so strong that even rocks can be picked up. The retraction is so fast that down the gullet it goes. So keeping rocks, gravels, pearlite, etc out of the cage is safest! i actually sift all of my top soil always. Females usually are awesome hunters too. At least mine were. You should keep the screen cage and tape down the vinyl you have hanging on all sides to the frame. The back and one side should be covered. Then hang the cords from the lights on the side that is sealed. It will help with humidity and prevent fires from over spray hitting electrical from either hand spraying or misting. You should remove the fake plants. They have sharp edges and chams especially females willnibble or eat plants. Even fake moss can cause impact and lead to death. Live plants on the other hand keeps humidity up and the water tends to lie on the leaves so they can drink it off of them. You need to fill out the form and post pics for a complete review. There is so much bad inaccurate info out there usually from manufactured trying to sell their wares that its criminal. We have all been there and done that in our journey to learn what these special creatures need. This is a community of cham owners that want to help you avoid those pitfalls to provide the best life for your new chameleon that is possible. her age is very important as all females are egg layers. So if you don't know, call the store and ask them to check there records. You should buy it sell a chameleon that is younger then three months, but we have seen this is rarely done with these big chain stores. At some point your little girl will need a lay bin because like chickens, she will lay even if she isn't fertilized. So best if luck to you I will keep an eye on this post to offer any other info. The chameleonacademy.com has excellent info on cage set up and lights temps humidity etc based on species. Its not a one size fits all kind of thing.
 
Chameleon Info:
• Your Chameleon
- The species, sex, and age of your chameleon. How long has it been in your care?
Female Panther chameleon we are guessing around 3 months. My gotcha date is 11/1/24
• Handling - How often do you handle your chameleon?
The only time I handled her was to get her in her cage
• Feeding - What are you feeding your cham? What amount? What is the schedule? How are you gut-loading your feeders?
Trying to feed her meal worms, crickets, and dubia roaches gutloaded with calcium with vitd3. Putting 5 in a cup and leaving it there for a couple of hours. I have been switching out the insects everyday and she still hasn't eaten
I put the insects in a bag with the powder, shake the bag then put the insects in her feeders cup
• Supplements - What brand and type of calcium and vitamin products are you dusting your feeders with and what is the schedule?
Repticalcium with d3
Repashy calcium plus
Have not figured out a feeding schedule yet cuz she hasn't eaten yet. Currently have been gutloading with the repticalcium with d3
• Watering - What kind of watering technique do you use? How often and how long to you mist? Do you see your chameleon drinking?
I am misting currently with a spray bottle about 4 times a day for 2 minutes at a time (I am looking into misters)
We have a dripper that runs from 1400-1700
We have a fogger that we keep on from 0100-0500
I have not seen her drink (I am also not really going by her too often because I don't want to stress her out)
• Fecal Description - Briefly note colors and consistency from recent droppings. Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites?
She has pooped twice
Like a brownish color that looked like it was kinda spongy if I were to touch it if that makes any sense
No she has never been tested for parasites
• History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you.
I got her from petco, I went there yesterday to talk to them and see how old she is and they could not give me an answer. I then asked where did they get her from so I can reach out to them for her hatch date and they were also unable to give me that information. They suggested I go based off of a growth chart
I am really worried that she hasn't eaten yet but she has pooped twice. She is going through her second shed. Most of it has come off just a few spots on her side that are still attached. Petco was atleast able to tell me that she only shed once while they had her.

Cage Info:
• Cage Type
- Describe your cage (Glass, Screen, Combo?) What are the dimensions?
Screen cage dimensions: 18x18x36
• Lighting - What brand, model, and types of lighting are you using? What is your daily lighting schedule?
Reptisun T5 HO Fluorescent UVB bulb
Reptisun terrarium hood
Repti basking spot lamp
Mini deep dome lamp fixture
Lighting schedule: lights on at 0800 and off at 2000
• Temperature - What temp range have you created (cage floor to basking spot)? Lowest overnight temp? How do you measure these temps?
Cage has an average temp of 77
Basking spot: mid 80s
Night temp drops to low 70s
Have 3 temperature gauges, 1 is by basking spot 2nd is like mid level
• Humidity - What are your humidity levels? How are you creating and maintaining these levels? What do you use to measure humidity?
Humidity levels during the day: averaging about 55%
Humidity levels during night: 85%-90%
Have a fogger on from 0100-0500
I bought 3 different hygrometers and have them placed in different areas of the cage
• Plants - Are you using live plants? If so, what kind?
Fake plants
I have purchased a money tree and a pothos plant but need more info on what soil to use that is safe for chameleons
• Placement - Where is your cage located? Is it near any fans, air vents, or high traffic areas? At what height is the top of the cage relative to your room floor?
Temporarily located in living room by sliding glass door. It is sitting on top of a glass table i would say the top of the cage is roughly 6 feet from the floor. Not really high traffic area, we don't spend much time in the living room
• Location - Where are you geographically located?
Northern illinois
 
First off not an idiot you at least got the deluxe kit with the correct UVB lighting. I will go through your husbandry and post more information then you probably want lol.
 
Hi there, and welcome! Like @GrannyK said, you are not an idiot! We all start somewhere and learn from there; as long as you want to give your cham their best life possible and are always willing to learn and improve, that’s what matters! There’s a decent amount of info coming below, and I know it’s a lot to take in, so make sure to ask any and all questions you need! There are no stupid questions here, we just want to help! My feedback will be in red, and I’ve also attached helpful links and images at the bottom:

Chameleon Info:
• Your Chameleon
- The species, sex, and age of your chameleon. How long has it been in your care?
Female Panther chameleon we are guessing around 3 months. My gotcha date is 11/1/24
If you post a pic with your cham’s tail straight out behind her, we can double check that she is in fact a she! I’ve also added a panther sexing link below!
• Handling
- How often do you handle your chameleon?
The only time I handled her was to get her in her cage
That’s great! Once she’s settled down (could be a few weeks or even longer), you can start building trust with her via hand feeding (this could take a while, too). When it’s warm enough out, you can also take her outside for natural uvb as another reward for her!
• Feeding
- What are you feeding your cham? What amount? What is the schedule? How are you gut-loading your feeders?
Trying to feed her meal worms, crickets, and dubia roaches gutloaded with calcium with vitd3. Putting 5 in a cup and leaving it there for a couple of hours. I have been switching out the insects everyday and she still hasn't eaten
I put the insects in a bag with the powder, shake the bag then put the insects in her feeders cup
So mealworms aren’t good for chameleons, only as rarer treats. Crickets and dubia are good, don’t worry about that, but the more variety you have, the better! Silkworms, black soldier fly larvae, captive bred grasshoppers, blue or green bottle fly spikes, other types of roaches that usually get a better feeding response are turkistan/red runner roaches, discoids, green banana roaches (these do climb and fly- none of the others that I’m listing do though) horseshoe crab roaches, and ivory or orange headed roaches, pupated black soldier flies and green and blue bottle flies, along with house flies (get from a reptile feeder insect store, don’t catch ones in your house to use if you have them), wax worms that have pupated into moths, and (if she’s still small enough) bean beetles and flightless fruit flies, are all great “staple” feeders easily available in the US! Remember, variety is key, so try to give/rotate through as many options as possible! Now, she might not be big enough for some of those feeders yet, the rule of thumb is to feed nothing wider than the width of her head between her eyes. If you’re not sure, always ere on the side of caution and go smaller, it never hurts. Speaking of which, how big are your feeder bugs compared to her? They might be too big, which could explain her not eating. Also, where are you getting her bugs from? Pet stores do have a higher chance of having parasites in their bugs, mainly and especially crickets, so it’s important to get bugs from a reputable source (usually online stores specializing in reptile feeding live insects). I’ve attached links below to our sponsors for cham food on the forums, along with the only place I recommend getting crickets from (Ghann’s Crickets), and another place I get silkworms (and other bugs) from (TC Insects) below, as well as a feeder chart! When ordering bugs online, always go smaller if you’re not sure what size to get, you can always grow them out and feed more until they do grow to size. At 3 months old, feed her as much as she wants! What time(s) of day are you feeding her? Like @Beman said, she should be downing dozens appropriately sized feeders once she starts eating

You are gutloading incorrectly, supplements should only be used to lightly coat the insects right before feeding them off. You want to use a mix of fresh, organic leafy greens, other veggies, and some fruit, and optionally, a little commercial gutload (there are more things you can add, too). You want to keep all your buggies well fed and hydrated so they’re as nutritionally dense as possible for your cham when feeding them off! I’ve attached a gutload chart below, stick to those foods, as they are all safe, not all veggies/fruits/other foods are! What does her feeder cup look like? Is it accessible to her (that could be another possible issue for her not eating if that’s the case)? If you’re leaving bugs in her feeder and walking away, stick a little piece of gutload in there for the bugs to munch on so they stay well fed!

• Supplements
- What brand and type of calcium and vitamin products are you dusting your feeders with and what is the schedule?
Repticalcium with d3
Repashy calcium plus
Have not figured out a feeding schedule yet cuz she hasn't eaten yet. Currently have been gutloading with the repticalcium with d3
So both of those supplements are incorrect together. What you want is to use a phosphorus-free calcium without D3 every feeding, except for once every two weeks, where you’ll use a combo multivitamin and D3 supplement (instead if those two separate, it’s easier- though the Calcium Plus is a combo, just too much D3). I’d recommend Repashy Calcium Plus LoD (it has a jacksons chameleon on the bottle). Zoo Med Reptivite with D3 is another option, but it does have phosphorus in it, which is why I’m recommending Repashy Cakcium Plus LoD (it doesn’t). If you don’t already know (if you do, great!), when you dust, right before feeding the bugs off, only lightly coat them with the supplement (you don’t want them looking like powdered donuts)
• Watering
- What kind of watering technique do you use? How often and how long to you mist? Do you see your chameleon drinking?
I am misting currently with a spray bottle about 4 times a day for 2 minutes at a time (I am looking into misters)
We have a dripper that runs from 1400-1700
We have a fogger that we keep on from 0100-0500
I have not seen her drink (I am also not really going by her too often because I don't want to stress her out)
Your misting length is perfect! You want to be misting around lights on and lights off for daytime mistings. If you need more daytime humidity, you can do a longer morning misting, cover side(s)of the cage (even the top front door if needed, keep the lower service door screen and clear of anything to make sure there’s enough airflow if you do this, though), add more plants, and go bioactive (I’d wait until after she’s big enough to get a clean bill of health). If any/all of those still don’t work, you can add a late afternoon misting. Dripper is great! Where is it placed in the cage? Fogger schedule is great, too, though your night temps are not low enough for it to be safe to fog (see my feedback in the temperature section). What type of fogger is it though (cool mist or warm mist)? Chams are secretive drinkers, so misting the plants really well and adding a dripper and a fogger (if temps are low enough) are all ways to make sure she’s hydrated. The only automatic misters I recommend are CliMist or MistKing
• Fecal Description
- Briefly note colors and consistency from recent droppings. Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites?
She has pooped twice
Like a brownish color that looked like it was kinda spongy if I were to touch it if that makes any sense
No she has never been tested for parasites
One she is big enough, I’d bring her in to an experienced chameleon vet to be checked over and have her poop tested for parasites (you want at least 3 poops in a row to get tested and all come back clean to be sure she’s parasite free). I know this sounds weird, but feel free to post (more) poop pics!
• History
- Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you.
I got her from petco, I went there yesterday to talk to them and see how old she is and they could not give me an answer. I then asked where did they get her from so I can reach out to them for her hatch date and they were also unable to give me that information. They suggested I go based off of a growth chart
I am really worried that she hasn't eaten yet but she has pooped twice. She is going through her second shed. Most of it has come off just a few spots on her side that are still attached. Petco was atleast able to tell me that she only shed once while they had her.
Petco is sadly not a good place to get a cham, so you want to make sure your husbandry is on point and, (again) once big enough, take her to the vet
 

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Cage Info:
• Cage Type
- Describe your cage (Glass, Screen, Combo?) What are the dimensions?
Screen cage dimensions: 18x18x36 This is fine for now, but as she grows, she’ll need a bigger cage. The minimum size for female panthers is either 2’x2’x4’ tall or 36”x18”x36” tall, but the recommended size is 4’x2’x4’ tall or bigger; go as big as you can! My panther girl uses her entire cage, so don’t worry about anything being “too big”, that simply won’t be the case haha! Like @GrannyK and @MzLaurie have already said, you want to remove all of that stuff at the bottom. The only things you should have in her cage are her, branches (that she can grip, the logs at the bottom are too big), plants, and vines. Speaking of that, you’ll need to remove and replace the moss poles and Exo Terra vines with safe options. I’d add a big centerpiece plant in her enclosure, as well. Below I’ve attached two chameleon safe plant lists and two cage set up links for inspiration!
• Lighting
- What brand, model, and types of lighting are you using? What is your daily lighting schedule?
Reptisun T5 HO Fluorescent UVB bulb
Reptisun terrarium hood
Repti basking spot lamp
Mini deep dome lamp fixture
Lighting schedule: lights on at 0800 and off at 2000
What is the strength of your uvb bulb, and what is the length of your uvb fixture? And how far away is your cham’s basking branch/vine from the uvb bulb itself? Remember that Zoo Med bulbs need to be replaced every six months, unless you have a Solarmeter 6.5 (which I cannot recommend enough, it’s literally a life saver, and every keeper should have one if they can afford it!). A Solarmeter 6.5 will tell you the exact distance needed between the basking branch and uvb bulb (you want a uvi of 3 at the top of your cham’s back when she’s on her basking branch), exactly when to replace your uvb bulb (when the uvi cuts in half to 1.5), and it’s the only way to tell if a uvb bulb is defective. When you upgrade your fixture to the size needed for her biggest cage (at least the length of the cage, or longer if you’ll be placing the fixture diagonally), which you can buy now, you don’t have to wait until you upgrade her cage size, I’d recommend getting the Arcadia ProT5 kit with an Arcadia 6% uvb bulb. Arcadia has a better fixture, and their bulbs only need to be replaced once a year (if you don’t have a Solarmeter 6.5 to check). How far away is her basking bulb from her basking branch? Lighting schedule is perfect!
• Temperature
- What temp range have you created (cage floor to basking spot)? Lowest overnight temp? How do you measure these temps?
Cage has an average temp of 77
Basking spot: mid 80s
Night temp drops to low 70s
Have 3 temperature gauges, 1 is by basking spot 2nd is like mid level
Are your temperature gauges digital or analog? Her basking spot and ambient temps are too warm; you want her basking spot to be between 78-80*F (it needs to be measured with a probed digital thermometer, with the probe placed where the top of her back is when she’s on her basking branch). Too high of temps can lead to more eggs, which puts extra strain on her and her health long term. Your night times are too high for fogging. It’s only safe to fog when the temps are 65*F or lower, so stop fogging if you can’t drop the temps to those levels. Higher temps and high humidity can lead to respiratory infections
• Humidity
- What are your humidity levels? How are you creating and maintaining these levels? What do you use to measure humidity?
Humidity levels during the day: averaging about 55%
Humidity levels during night: 85%-90%
Have a fogger on from 0100-0500
I bought 3 different hygrometers and have them placed in different areas of the cage
Are the hygrometers digital or analog? Daytime humidity levels are perfect! You need to get 65*F or lower at night for that high of nighttime humidity levels and to use the fogger
• Plants
- Are you using live plants? If so, what kind?
Fake plants
I have purchased a money tree and a pothos plant but need more info on what soil to use that is safe for chameleons
Those plants are great! You’ll want to use either Dawn dish soap or Physan to clean the plants and roots (rinse very, very, very, very well after!), then use any organic potting soil. You’ll want to cover the soil with rocks too big for her to eat just in case she wants to taste test the soil
• Placement
- Where is your cage located? Is it near any fans, air vents, or high traffic areas? At what height is the top of the cage relative to your room floor?
Temporarily located in living room by sliding glass door. It is sitting on top of a glass table i would say the top of the cage is roughly 6 feet from the floor. Not really high traffic area, we don't spend much time in the living room
I’d relocate her cage away from the door, it can cause drafts, and since it’s glass, it can also alter the cage temps too much
• Location
- Where are you geographically located?
Northern illinois
Do you want a vet list to find one near you for in the future? I’ve also added panther care links below, including an incredible egg laying blog by @MissSkittles ! I’ve also attached a lay bin image below, too. You’ll need to make sure you get an appropriate lay bin in her cage soon so she gets used to it by the time she does have eggs

http://www.muchadoaboutchameleons.com/2013/04/male-or-female-how-to-sex-baby-panther.html
https://www.chameleonforums.com/sponsors/?tag=food
https://www.ghann.com/Default.aspx
https://www.tcinsects.com/
https://chameleonacademy.com/plants/
https://www.madcham.de/en/pflanzen-fuers-terrarium/
https://chameleonacademy.com/setting-up-a-chameleon-cage/
http://www.muchadoaboutchameleons.com/2012/04/how-to-set-up-proper-chameleon.html
https://chameleonacademy.com/chameleon-husbandry-program-getting-started-with-chameleons/ (read through every section if you haven’t already, it’s the most up to date husbandry standards!)
https://chameleonacademy.com/panther-chameleon-care/ (the temps and feeding amounts do differ based on age and gender, and you can push the daytime humidity a little higher, but everything else is on point!)
 
So I'm an idiot and bought the kit that literally everyone does not recommend... also we were having a hard time with humidity control... we live in Northern Illinois and we're about to be in the super dry months. We bought acrylic pieces from home depot to set up so we can have a bit more control... any help with her enclosure would be greatly appreciated!! Also I keep getting conflicting information about whether mesh or glass is better... I know they need ventilation but I keep reading that if you have a hard time controlling the environment then a combo of mesh and glass is preferred. When I swap out her terrarium should I get a glass/mesh combo?

I am lucky enough to live somewhat close to an exotic animal vet... they are about 40 minutes away from me.
So for this we can work with screen to modify it and make it more of a hybrid style. I am going to give you a lot of information in red bold. Take it piece by piece and ask any questions you need.


Chameleon Info:
• Your Chameleon
- The species, sex, and age of your chameleon. How long has it been in your care?
Female Panther chameleon we are guessing around 3 months. My gotcha date is 11/1/24 Looks to be about right could be pushing 4 months. You 100% sure you have a female? I can tell better by seeing the tail base. http://www.muchadoaboutchameleons.com/2013/04/male-or-female-how-to-sex-baby-panther.html
• Handling
- How often do you handle your chameleon?
The only time I handled her was to get her in her cage. Good let her settle and get cage set up to 100% then you can work on building trust. Link to building trust https://www.chameleonforums.com/blogs/building-trust-with-your-chameleon.2396/
• Feeding
- What are you feeding your cham? What amount? What is the schedule? How are you gut-loading your feeders?
Trying to feed her meal worms, crickets, and dubia roaches gutloaded with calcium with vitd3. Putting 5 in a cup and leaving it there for a couple of hours. I have been switching out the insects everyday and she still hasn't eaten. How large are the crickets and dubia? Babies this small should be eating 1/4 inch sized. I am not a fan of meal worms due to their lower nutritional value. Most babies like this are trained up by free feeding. Depending on your cup it may not work for her. I tend to switch babies to a feeder run method. You can buy one like a Shooting gallery or full throttle feeder or make your own. https://dragonstrand.com/constructing-a-chameleon-feeder-run/ I highly recommend this and put a branch near it so she can access it. But this makes it so they can actively see the movement of the insects. And if size appropriate they will start targeting. At this age 2 dozen minimum is a normal amount daily for baby to take down.
I put the insects in a bag with the powder, shake the bag then put the insects in her feeders cup
• Supplements - What brand and type of calcium and vitamin products are you dusting your feeders with and what is the schedule?
Repticalcium with d3
Repashy calcium plus
Have not figured out a feeding schedule yet cuz she hasn't eaten yet. Currently have been gutloading with the repticalcium with d3 Ok these need to be adjusted. You need plain calcium without D3. This would be your every feeding supplement. The Repashy calcium plus if it is not the LoD version with the jackson cham on it you need to buy the LoD version. This one would be 2 times a month only on say the 1st and the 15th.Per gutloading this is the act of properly feeding your insects See the gutloading image.
• Watering
- What kind of watering technique do you use? How often and how long to you mist? Do you see your chameleon drinking?
I am misting currently with a spray bottle about 4 times a day for 2 minutes at a time (I am looking into misters) Misting morning and late afternoon. The cage needs to dry out during the day. look into the mistking starter auto misting system.
We have a dripper that runs from 1400-1700 Dripper run mid day for a few hours. Dripping on plant leaves.
We have a fogger that we keep on from 0100-0500 So fogger you would run at night only and only in temps below 67 degrees or baby is at risk of a respiratory infection.
I have not seen her drink (I am also not really going by her too often because I don't want to stress her out) They tend to be very shy about this.
• Fecal Description
- Briefly note colors and consistency from recent droppings. Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites?
She has pooped twice
Like a brownish color that looked like it was kinda spongy if I were to touch it if that makes any sense
No she has never been tested for parasites. See if you have a vet that you can drop off a fecal sample for testing before you set up an appointment. Most that understand stress and chams will understand the need for this because if the fecal comes back negative there is no reason to stress them out taking them in.
• History
- Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you.
I got her from petco, I went there yesterday to talk to them and see how old she is and they could not give me an answer. I then asked where did they get her from so I can reach out to them for her hatch date and they were also unable to give me that information. They suggested I go based off of a growth chart
I am really worried that she hasn't eaten yet but she has pooped twice. She is going through her second shed. Most of it has come off just a few spots on her side that are still attached. Petco was atleast able to tell me that she only shed once while they had her. So they get them from essentially mass breeders. No info you can go back to.
 

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Cage Info:
• Cage Type
- Describe your cage (Glass, Screen, Combo?) What are the dimensions?
Screen cage dimensions: 18x18x36. fine for now will need to go up to a 24x24x48 though.
• Lighting
- What brand, model, and types of lighting are you using? What is your daily lighting schedule?
Reptisun T5 HO Fluorescent UVB bulb
Reptisun terrarium hood. So UVB is correct now you want to measure 8-9 inches from the fixture bottom to the closest branch. That is the closest a branch should sit to put the cham in the right UVI.
Repti basking spot lamp
Mini deep dome lamp fixture
Lighting schedule: lights on at 0800 and off at 2000.. I think I am figuring out your military time right so if that is 8-8pm I would cut it back an hour. With it getting dark out earlier they tend to follow the seasons.
• Temperature
- What temp range have you created (cage floor to basking spot)? Lowest overnight temp? How do you measure these temps?
Cage has an average temp of 77 little warm... Looking for ambient daytime temps to sit in low 70's
Basking spot: mid 80s... Little warm you want basking to sit 80f for babies this young but especially females. Makes sure your using a temp gauge with probe attached at the branch below the basking fixture to get an accurate temp reading.
Night temp drops to low 70s Not low enough they need the cool down. You can not run the fogger at all in temps this warm. Must be below 67 to avoid baby developing a respiratory infection.
Have 3 temperature gauges, 1 is by basking spot 2nd is like mid level
• Humidity - What are your humidity levels? How are you creating and maintaining these levels? What do you use to measure humidity?
Humidity levels during the day: averaging about 55% little high for daytime. looking for 30-45% max 50% daytime levels.
Humidity levels during night: 85%-90%. ok as long as your getting the needed temp drop. Dropping to low 60's.
Have a fogger on from 0100-0500
I bought 3 different hygrometers and have them placed in different areas of the cage
• Plants - Are you using live plants? If so, what kind?
Fake plants
I have purchased a money tree and a pothos plant but need more info on what soil to use that is safe for chameleons.. Good so any organic soil that does not have the white perlite in it can be used.
• Placement
- Where is your cage located? Is it near any fans, air vents, or high traffic areas? At what height is the top of the cage relative to your room floor?
Temporarily located in living room by sliding glass door. It is sitting on top of a glass table i would say the top of the cage is roughly 6 feet from the floor. Not really high traffic area, we don't spend much time in the living room
• Location - Where are you geographically located?
Northern illinois


Start reading every at this link for their husbandry program. https://chameleonacademy.com/chameleon-husbandry-program-getting-started-with-chameleons/ Neptune the chameleon on youtube has great accurate info as well. Then ask all your questions in the forum.

Per being worried about the screen. With the humidity levels your getting I would not stress. Use the acrylic panels and attach to the outside with velcrow or command strips right to the frame of the cage. This will make it so you can remove a panel if needed. Put on the back and two sides recheck your levels for a few days. This will help with overspray as well.
IF this is in fact a female there are a few things we change up as they mature. They can lay infertile eggs like chickens do. Here is specific female info for you.
As she matures you will have to start cutting back her food. By about 6-7 months she should be getting about 5-8 small feeders each day. At about 7-8 months you want to slowly reduce by cutting down feeder amounts so that she is on a feeding schedule of 3 days a week with 3 feeders. You want them to be on this schedule by the time they are 9-10 months old.



You will not ever want basking to be over 78-80 for her. Very important for females because as she ages she needs this temp no higher at basking to help control the amount of eggs she produces. The hotter the temp the more their metabolism speeds up so we have to keep the temp lower since we are doing lower food intake.

A lay bin should be added as a permanent fixture by the time they are 6 months old so they get used to it and it does not cause stress.

https://www.chameleonforums.com/threads/laying-bin-set-up-educational-video.77225/
 
Maybe all of us active members that do husbandry reviews need to comment that we are working on it so others know lol. Cause um me too over here the last 30 minutes. Oh well double the info :hilarious:
Will do! Didn’t see you had posted until I was almost done
 
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Maybe all of us active members that do husbandry reviews need to comment that we are working on it so others know lol. Cause um me too over here the last 30 minutes. Oh well double the info :hilarious:
Thank you so much to everyone that replied!!! Sorry for the late response I work overnight and am also battling the plague. I have cleaned up the bottom of the cage. Trying to get a picture of her or his backside for you guys to help me sex the panther I have.

We were thinking of converting my closet to be just her room... is this a bad idea? Also is it a bad idea to purchase the larger enclosure for her now since she's a baby?

We do purchase the insects from a reptile store not from a pet store like petco or petsmart and I mixed up gutloading and dusting... we are feeding the insects veggies and fruits before we try to feed the lizards (have a bearded dragon and leopard gecko as well) but thank you for that sheet that explains gutloading cuz I realized i can add a lot more. Thank you to everyone that has been so kind as well.

I will be working on dropping the temperature in general but more at night... without the fogger I can't really get the humidity that high. Is there anything else I can do to get the nighttime humidity high without a fogger? Also what should the humidity levels be if the temp doesn't drop that low?
 
So for this we can work with screen to modify it and make it more of a hybrid style. I am going to give you a lot of information in red bold. Take it piece by piece and ask any questions you need.


Chameleon Info:
• Your Chameleon
- The species, sex, and age of your chameleon. How long has it been in your care?
Female Panther chameleon we are guessing around 3 months. My gotcha date is 11/1/24 Looks to be about right could be pushing 4 months. You 100% sure you have a female? I can tell better by seeing the tail base. http://www.muchadoaboutchameleons.com/2013/04/male-or-female-how-to-sex-baby-panther.html
• Handling
- How often do you handle your chameleon?
The only time I handled her was to get her in her cage. Good let her settle and get cage set up to 100% then you can work on building trust. Link to building trust https://www.chameleonforums.com/blogs/building-trust-with-your-chameleon.2396/
• Feeding
- What are you feeding your cham? What amount? What is the schedule? How are you gut-loading your feeders?
Trying to feed her meal worms, crickets, and dubia roaches gutloaded with calcium with vitd3. Putting 5 in a cup and leaving it there for a couple of hours. I have been switching out the insects everyday and she still hasn't eaten. How large are the crickets and dubia? Babies this small should be eating 1/4 inch sized. I am not a fan of meal worms due to their lower nutritional value. Most babies like this are trained up by free feeding. Depending on your cup it may not work for her. I tend to switch babies to a feeder run method. You can buy one like a Shooting gallery or full throttle feeder or make your own. https://dragonstrand.com/constructing-a-chameleon-feeder-run/ I highly recommend this and put a branch near it so she can access it. But this makes it so they can actively see the movement of the insects. And if size appropriate they will start targeting. At this age 2 dozen minimum is a normal amount daily for baby to take down.
I put the insects in a bag with the powder, shake the bag then put the insects in her feeders cup
• Supplements - What brand and type of calcium and vitamin products are you dusting your feeders with and what is the schedule?
Repticalcium with d3
Repashy calcium plus
Have not figured out a feeding schedule yet cuz she hasn't eaten yet. Currently have been gutloading with the repticalcium with d3 Ok these need to be adjusted. You need plain calcium without D3. This would be your every feeding supplement. The Repashy calcium plus if it is not the LoD version with the jackson cham on it you need to buy the LoD version. This one would be 2 times a month only on say the 1st and the 15th.Per gutloading this is the act of properly feeding your insects See the gutloading image.
• Watering
- What kind of watering technique do you use? How often and how long to you mist? Do you see your chameleon drinking?
I am misting currently with a spray bottle about 4 times a day for 2 minutes at a time (I am looking into misters) Misting morning and late afternoon. The cage needs to dry out during the day. look into the mistking starter auto misting system.
We have a dripper that runs from 1400-1700 Dripper run mid day for a few hours. Dripping on plant leaves.
We have a fogger that we keep on from 0100-0500 So fogger you would run at night only and only in temps below 67 degrees or baby is at risk of a respiratory infection.
I have not seen her drink (I am also not really going by her too often because I don't want to stress her out) They tend to be very shy about this.
• Fecal Description
- Briefly note colors and consistency from recent droppings. Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites?
She has pooped twice
Like a brownish color that looked like it was kinda spongy if I were to touch it if that makes any sense
No she has never been tested for parasites. See if you have a vet that you can drop off a fecal sample for testing before you set up an appointment. Most that understand stress and chams will understand the need for this because if the fecal comes back negative there is no reason to stress them out taking them in.
• History
- Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you.
I got her from petco, I went there yesterday to talk to them and see how old she is and they could not give me an answer. I then asked where did they get her from so I can reach out to them for her hatch date and they were also unable to give me that information. They suggested I go based off of a growth chart
I am really worried that she hasn't eaten yet but she has pooped twice. She is going through her second shed. Most of it has come off just a few spots on her side that are still attached. Petco was atleast able to tell me that she only shed once while they had her. So they get them from essentially mass breeders. No info you can go back to.
Is this a good enough picture of her backend to sex her or him? She's on the side of the cage but I was trying to fix it today so I think that stressed her out. :(
 

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Ohhhhhhh ok i will attempt this when I got home from work in the morning.. my bad! Thank you!! Also big news she ate today!!!!
So yeah if you look at the gender link I gave you it will show how you determine. So we would need the tail straight out and the picture from the side so we can see if there is a bulge indicating male right after the vent on the bottom side of the tail. Or if it is super slim this is going to point to a female.
 
We were thinking of converting my closet to be just her room... is this a bad idea? Also is it a bad idea to purchase the larger enclosure for her now since she's a baby?
As long as there is enough airflow in and out of the closet so there is constant fresh air it should be fine. You can purchase her adult cage now no problem! You’ll just have to replace her branches to ones with bigger diameters as she grows
 
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