New guy here coming up with a plan.

[Tackett]

Part 1 of 2

So, I bought my little girl who's 5 almost 6 a leopard gecko. Obviously I've been doing all the work and letting her enjoy and learn, and doing all this I think I've been bitten by the herp bug.

My local pet store is fantastic, I am very lucky. The owner is a conscientious pet owner and runs a great store with quality products and information, he actually directed me to this forum. Anyway, i had never ever in all the years of visiting this pet store I have never set foot in the herp department, I've always went straight to the reef section. Inside the herp section was a gigantic planted enclosure with the biggest freaking chameleon I had ever seen. The owner told me it was his personal Parsons chameleon and started filling my head with all kinds of ideas. He did discourage me from buying a Parsons and showed me a veiled chameleon, which was also quite big. He suggested I started with that and said having known my experience with reef aquariums that I should be able to set up a nice enclosure without much difficulty, then he directed me to this forum. I digress though.

Long story short (too late I know), I'm making plans for a veiled chameleon enclosure and I wanted to run my ideas past you kind experts here.

I plan on DIYing about 90% of this and I'm going to link some of the products when applicable. I know this is lengthy so thanks ahead of time for reading it.

THE ENCLOSURE
All in all I would like to make a weatherproof, large enclosure with a drain, a locking and hinged front panel, a hood to hide the lighting and heating and a decorative back wall.
frame
Wood frame covered in epoxy paint similar to making a plywood fish tank. I'll likely use particle board and coat it with epoxy. I don't think there is much reason to use plywood.
screen
1/2" PVC screen from Home Depot or lowes, my research says this is the best size.
drainage
Vinyl Shower floor, covered in pond foam and then the foam covered in black epoxy paint for durability and looks. It will be placed on top of a cabinet with a container inside that the drainage will run into.
design
Three open sides with the back covered in epoxy, then eggcrate covered in pond foam to make it appear like a rocky surface. I may or may not grow some real climbing vines and flowers that will all but cover the wall.

LIGHTING/HEATING
This will be complicated because I need lights that will serve multiple functions to both grow the plants that are in the enclosure, provide the animal with healthy UVB, and ensure the correct heat gradient and basking abilities without using unreliable incandescent bulbs.
plant lighting
A full spectrum programmable LED light with sunrise, sunset, moonlighting and storm capabilities.
uvb
Two fluorescent fixtures.
heat
I haven't decided on this yet, I'm thinking that since the LED will be ok for the plants and it will probably be a 16" or larger fixture depending on how big I make the final enclosure, that I could probably get away with a couple of ceramic elements pointed at an angle toward the center of the light. This way he would go up top toward the led and get the heat off the elements. I have to be careful not to melt the housing on the light though, so I'm not sure what the best thing would be. My other idea would be to use a tubular heating element for an oven, stove or hot tub (hooked to a temp probe and thermostat) coiled around the outside of the enclosure protected by a heat shield. This would effectively heat the entire top of the enclosure. I'm not positive though I'm still brainstorming this. Any ideas would be helpful.

WATER SYSTEM
My master plan is to provide fine mist multiple times a day and a large rain simulation from the top.
mist
My plan is to run spray bars up the length of each corner of the enclosure. These will be fed by a pump in a reservoir under the cabinet. This will provide fine horizontal mist. I plan on running this in short bursts (like a few seconds) multiple times a day.
rain
I plan on feeding a round droplet bar at the top of the enclosure which will be fed by a different pump.

PLANT TYPES
My plan here is to have four types of plants, and this is one section where I need lots of help. I want vines, a hanging basket or two, ground cover, and a centerpiece.
centerpiece
I love those habiscous trees, and this is likely going to be my centerpiece plant unless there are objections.
Hanging basket plant.
I have no idea here, preferably in my mind I am picturing something that grows downward toward the centerpiece.
Vines
Not a clue, I hope to have these growing from the bottom up attaching themselves to the pond foam wall in the back.
Ground cover
Again, no clue here. My hope is to have some short plants growing around the centerpiece.

 

[Tackett]

Part 2 of 2

AUTOMATION/REDUNDANCY
My general rule on making anything complex and automated is to have at least three fail safes with one being a last resort property damage prevention method. I want to be able to turn systems on and off when I am gone, and be able to be notified of when a system fails. So I will be using a Neptune apex for this build. I am once again going to divide this section up into the to make it easier to read.
temp control
I will need four temp probes with the apex, one will be inside the hood that contains the lights, one will be inside the enclosure toward the top and one will be directly below the basking area and the final one will be sitting directly on top of the hood itself on the outside.
hood
When the temp gets above a set point, the apex will turn on a few large PC fans that will ventilate the hood. If the temperature drops below an acceptable level the fans will be shut off. This will keep down energy consumption and noise. When the temp starts to get higher than the set point, the apex will turn off the heating elements and send me a text alert that they have been shut down. If the outside temp probe sitting on the hood reaches a certain temp the apex will shut down everything inside the hood (all lights, all elements) and panic text me.
basking area
Temp above set point turn off element. Temp below set point turn on element. If the LED goes into storm mode, turn off element. Turn off element at a set time, turn on element at a set time. Simple. If temp above set point at set time, text me. If temp below set point at set time, text me.
top of enclosure ambient
Temp above set point turn off element, temp below set point turn on element, turn off elements at a set time, turn off elements at a set time, simple. Again, if temp falls below set temp at set time, text me. If temp rises above set point at set time, text me.

WATER CONTROL/HUMIDITY CONTROL
I'm going for efficient, recyclable and safe. The main drain at the bottom of the enclosure will be directed into a reservoir inside the cabinet the enclosure will be sitting on. Inside this cabinet will be a humistat, two PC fans will be on either side of the cabinet, multiple float switches and pumps will be inside the reservoir, a humistat will be inside the enclosure, and a few large PC fans will be on the side of the enclosure itself (protected from toes). One pump inside the reservoir will supply the rainfall system, one pump will supply the misting system, and one pump will be the emergency drain pump. The entire reservoir will be fed by my RODI storage container that I use for my reef.

reservoir feed
Two float switchs will placed a few inches above the bottom (minimum water level) of the reservoir, and at the top of the reservoir (maximum water level). When the bottom float drops, and minimum operating level has been reached, the pump inside the RO/DI container will come on and pump water into the reservoir until the top float rises. The top float will shut the pump off. The inlet from the water pump will have a float valve on it, so in case the top float sticks, the float valve will shut off the water supply from the pump. At the very top of the reservoir will be an emergency float switch that is supposed to remain dry. So should the float switch fail, and the float valve fail, the emergency float will activate the emergency drain pump, start draining the reservoir and panic text me. I will also have water alarms in the floor next to the tank, so if they get wet, the apex will panic text me as well.
enclosure humidty
I can't imagine this being a problem, but with only 3 sides, a lot of water and live plants I imagine it could be. So inside will be a humistat connected to the apex and PC fans on either side of the enclosure (again, protected from little feet). When the humidity reaches a set point, the fans will come on. When it gets below a set point, the fans will turn off. Simple.
rain/mist
Apex will turn on the rain pump which is in the reservoir under the cabinet. Turn on at a certain time, turn off at a certain time. The apex maps and monitors voltage draw from the outlets, so if the pump is supposed to be on and is drawing power less than a set point, text me. The same will happen with the mist pump, just on a different time schedule.

LIGHTING
Im going for the most natural approach possible here. As I said before Im planning on using a full spectrum programmable LED fixture that can do sunrise, sunset, and storm functions. I will likely call a place for a custom LED layout as I will need spectrums different than a reef tank, Less blue and less low NM with wider lenses. I havent mapped out the spectrum yet but thats on my research list.
LED light
I will likely call up reefbreeders, reefbrite, ecotech or another manufacturer and see about a custom layout as mentioned above. The sunrise/sunset will be managed by the apex and hopefully I can get some nice colors during both dusk and dawn to simulate the sunrise. Ill have to take a look at the times in their natural habitat and when dusk/dawn usually happens, then I will just time it accordingly. Random storm mode will be fun with random times that the light will dim, the white leds will flash like lightning and the rain system pump will come on. That added with the humidity fans may end up being pretty natural.
uvb
I think I have decided at this point to do a higher concentration for a shorter time period. Instead of running UVB for the entire day, just running it at peak times with the brightest period of the day, possibly from 9am till 4pm or something depending on when the peak times are in the natural habitat. My original plan was to use a dimmable t5 fixture to handle all the lighting and just ditch the fun storm mode, but I cant for the life of me find a dimmable t5 bulb. If anyone knows where I can find one, please point me there. The apex will also control the photoperiod for the UVB.

CONCLUSION
So, As you can see I really need some specifics here that are mentioned. I know this has been a long post and I appreciate everyone sticking with me. Any help or input will be greatly appreciated.

regards,
Ben

 

[RcManChild]

Man that is a long read

Part 1 of 2

So, I bought my little girl who's 5 almost 6 a leopard gecko. Obviously I've been doing all the work and letting her enjoy and learn, and doing all this I think I've been bitten by the herp bug.

My local pet store is fantastic, I am very lucky. The owner is a conscientious pet owner and runs a great store with quality products and information, he actually directed me to this forum. Anyway, i had never ever in all the years of visiting this pet store I have never set foot in the herp department, I've always went straight to the reef section. Inside the herp section was a gigantic planted enclosure with the biggest freaking chameleon I had ever seen. The owner told me it was his personal Parsons chameleon and started filling my head with all kinds of ideas. He did discourage me from buying a Parsons and showed me a veiled chameleon, which was also quite big. He suggested I started with that and said having known my experience with reef aquariums that I should be able to set up a nice enclosure without much difficulty, then he directed me to this forum. I digress though.

Long story short (too late I know), I'm making plans for a veiled chameleon enclosure and I wanted to run my ideas past you kind experts here.

I plan on DIYing about 90% of this and I'm going to link some of the products when applicable. I know this is lengthy so thanks ahead of time for reading it.

THE ENCLOSURE
All in all I would like to make a weatherproof, large enclosure with a drain, a locking and hinged front panel, a hood to hide the lighting and heating and a decorative back wall.
frame
Wood frame covered in epoxy paint similar to making a plywood fish tank. I'll likely use particle board and coat it with epoxy. I don't think there is much reason to use plywood.
Be careful of any chemicals, anything meant for a salt water tank will be safe for the chameleon
screen
1/2" PVC screen from Home Depot or lowes, my research says this is the best size.
Crickets will escape.. use screen mesh for screen doors and windows.
drainage
Vinyl Shower floor, covered in pond foam and then the foam covered in black epoxy paint for durability and looks. It will be placed on top of a cabinet with a container inside that the drainage will run into.
See below for substrate - bad idea over all... I may be mis understanding however.
design
Three open sides with the back covered in epoxy, then eggcrate covered in pond foam to make it appear like a rocky surface. I may or may not grow some real climbing vines and flowers that will all but cover the wall.

LIGHTING/HEATING
This will be complicated because I need lights that will serve multiple functions to both grow the plants that are in the enclosure, provide the animal with healthy UVB, and ensure the correct heat gradient and basking abilities without using unreliable incandescent bulbs.
plant lighting
A full spectrum programmable LED light with sunrise, sunset, moonlighting and storm capabilities.
Overkill, and the chameleon will want complete darkness to sleep.
uvb
Two fluorescent fixtures.
heat
I haven't decided on this yet, I'm thinking that since the LED will be ok for the plants and it will probably be a 16" or larger fixture depending on how big I make the final enclosure, that I could probably get away with a couple of ceramic elements pointed at an angle toward the center of the light. This way he would go up top toward the led and get the heat off the elements. I have to be careful not to melt the housing on the light though, so I'm not sure what the best thing would be. My other idea would be to use a tubular heating element for an oven, stove or hot tub (hooked to a temp probe and thermostat) coiled around the outside of the enclosure protected by a heat shield. This would effectively heat the entire top of the enclosure. I'm not positive though I'm still brainstorming this. Any ideas would be helpful.
You can't have any overheating as the chameleon will burn. Chameleons in my experience associate light with heat, which is also where the UVB bulb should be.

WATER SYSTEM
My master plan is to provide fine mist multiple times a day and a large rain simulation from the top.
mist
My plan is to run spray bars up the length of each corner of the enclosure. These will be fed by a pump in a reservoir under the cabinet. This will provide fine horizontal mist. I plan on running this in short bursts (like a few seconds) multiple times a day.
rain
I plan on feeding a round droplet bar at the top of the enclosure which will be fed by a different pump.
Just watch your humidity levels.

PLANT TYPES
My plan here is to have four types of plants, and this is one section where I need lots of help. I want vines, a hanging basket or two, ground cover, and a centerpiece.
centerpiece
I love those habiscous trees, and this is likely going to be my centerpiece plant unless there are objections.
Hanging basket plant.
I have no idea here, preferably in my mind I am picturing something that grows downward toward the centerpiece.
Vines
Not a clue, I hope to have these growing from the bottom up attaching themselves to the pond foam wall in the back.
Ground cover
Again, no clue here. My hope is to have some short plants growing around the centerpiece.
I used hydro balls with reptisoil, work really well.

 

[RcManChild]

Part 2 of 2

AUTOMATION/REDUNDANCY
My general rule on making anything complex and automated is to have at least three fail safes with one being a last resort property damage prevention method. I want to be able to turn systems on and off when I am gone, and be able to be notified of when a system fails. So I will be using a Neptune apex for this build. I am once again going to divide this section up into the to make it easier to read.
OVERKILL... spend the money on a mist king and a sun ray fixture with a timer from homedepot...
temp control
I will need four temp probes with the apex, one will be inside the hood that contains the lights, one will be inside the enclosure toward the top and one will be directly below the basking area and the final one will be sitting directly on top of the hood itself on the outside.
Temperature is set my height from cage and Wattage of bulb... this is not needed.
hood
When the temp gets above a set point, the apex will turn on a few large PC fans that will ventilate the hood. If the temperature drops below an acceptable level the fans will be shut off. This will keep down energy consumption and noise. When the temp starts to get higher than the set point, the apex will turn off the heating elements and send me a text alert that they have been shut down. If the outside temp probe sitting on the hood reaches a certain temp the apex will shut down everything inside the hood (all lights, all elements) and panic text me.

basking area
Temp above set point turn off element. Temp below set point turn on element. If the LED goes into storm mode, turn off element. Turn off element at a set time, turn on element at a set time. Simple. If temp above set point at set time, text me. If temp below set point at set time, text me.
top of enclosure ambient
Temp above set point turn off element, temp below set point turn on element, turn off elements at a set time, turn off elements at a set time, simple. Again, if temp falls below set temp at set time, text me. If temp rises above set point at set time, text me.
again overkill, but if its what you want then more to you.

WATER CONTROL/HUMIDITY CONTROL
I'm going for efficient, recyclable and safe. The main drain at the bottom of the enclosure will be directed into a reservoir inside the cabinet the enclosure will be sitting on. Inside this cabinet will be a humistat, two PC fans will be on either side of the cabinet, multiple float switches and pumps will be inside the reservoir, a humistat will be inside the enclosure, and a few large PC fans will be on the side of the enclosure itself (protected from toes). One pump inside the reservoir will supply the rainfall system, one pump will supply the misting system, and one pump will be the emergency drain pump. The entire reservoir will be fed by my RODI storage container that I use for my reef.

reservoir feed
Two float switchs will placed a few inches above the bottom (minimum water level) of the reservoir, and at the top of the reservoir (maximum water level). When the bottom float drops, and minimum operating level has been reached, the pump inside the RO/DI container will come on and pump water into the reservoir until the top float rises. The top float will shut the pump off. The inlet from the water pump will have a float valve on it, so in case the top float sticks, the float valve will shut off the water supply from the pump. At the very top of the reservoir will be an emergency float switch that is supposed to remain dry. So should the float switch fail, and the float valve fail, the emergency float will activate the emergency drain pump, start draining the reservoir and panic text me. I will also have water alarms in the floor next to the tank, so if they get wet, the apex will panic text me as well.
enclosure humidty
I can't imagine this being a problem, but with only 3 sides, a lot of water and live plants I imagine it could be. So inside will be a humistat connected to the apex and PC fans on either side of the enclosure (again, protected from little feet). When the humidity reaches a set point, the fans will come on. When it gets below a set point, the fans will turn off. Simple.
rain/mist
Apex will turn on the rain pump which is in the reservoir under the cabinet. Turn on at a certain time, turn off at a certain time. The apex maps and monitors voltage draw from the outlets, so if the pump is supposed to be on and is drawing power less than a set point, text me. The same will happen with the mist pump, just on a different time schedule.

LIGHTING
Im going for the most natural approach possible here. As I said before Im planning on using a full spectrum programmable LED fixture that can do sunrise, sunset, and storm functions. I will likely call a place for a custom LED layout as I will need spectrums different than a reef tank, Less blue and less low NM with wider lenses. I havent mapped out the spectrum yet but thats on my research list.
LED light
I will likely call up reefbreeders, reefbrite, ecotech or another manufacturer and see about a custom layout as mentioned above. The sunrise/sunset will be managed by the apex and hopefully I can get some nice colors during both dusk and dawn to simulate the sunrise. Ill have to take a look at the times in their natural habitat and when dusk/dawn usually happens, then I will just time it accordingly. Random storm mode will be fun with random times that the light will dim, the white leds will flash like lightning and the rain system pump will come on. That added with the humidity fans may end up being pretty natural.
uvb
I think I have decided at this point to do a higher concentration for a shorter time period. Instead of running UVB for the entire day, just running it at peak times with the brightest period of the day, possibly from 9am till 4pm or something depending on when the peak times are in the natural habitat. My original plan was to use a dimmable t5 fixture to handle all the lighting and just ditch the fun storm mode, but I cant for the life of me find a dimmable t5 bulb. If anyone knows where I can find one, please point me there. The apex will also control the photoperiod for the UVB.

1) UVB bulbs do not replicate the sun's power... therefore this theory may or may not work...
2) Chameleons have a tendancy to know how much UVB they need, therefore they will limit their exposure.
3) Too much UVB can be bad and cause burns

CONCLUSION
So, As you can see I really need some specifics here that are mentioned. I know this has been a long post and I appreciate everyone sticking with me. Any help or input will be greatly appreciated.

regards,
Ben

 

[RcManChild]

I commented on what you want to do....

my full opinion...

build a terrarium to a decent size or buy one,....

use a mist king to water the chameleon
use a sun ray fixture from exo terra - provides UVB and heat...
Put in lots of foliage for the chameleon to hide...
put a 120V timer on the sunray fixture...

and you're done... probably the same price as the apex system.

 

[Tackett]

Thank you so much for taking the time to read my novel and respond.

While I do understand that this can be done much cheaper and easier than I have outlined, but I really need a way of both controlling and monitoring the system remotely. So the apex is actually a necessity, especially with the water and the flooding possibilities. Timers fail, thermostats fail, I need a way of knowing when these things bite the dust before the animal gets hurt.

I am open to simplifying some things though as I agree i do have a tendency to over think a lot of things.

 

[jamest0o0]

Wow, got a lot going on there. Would like to see how that turns out. One thing i can add about the heat, you probably don't want the entire top of the enclosure to be heated. It's best to have a basking spot, like a corner.

For plants, sounds like pothos might be something you're looking for. They are really easy as well.

The storm mode sounds interesting, would like to hear what others think about that. the flashing lights might add more stress than necessary.

Anyway nice to see another reefer here, makes me miss having saltwater tanks! Goodluck

 

[jamest0o0]

Thank you so much for taking the time to read my novel and respond.

While I do understand that this can be done much cheaper and easier than I have outlined, but I really need a way of both controlling and monitoring the system remotely. So the apex is actually a necessity, especially with the water and the flooding possibilities. Timers fail, thermostats fail, I need a way of knowing when these things bite the dust before the animal gets hurt.

I am open to simplifying some things though as I agree i do have a tendency to over think a lot of things.

I would like to get some sort of controller that is connected to my phone one day. I haven't looked much into it yet though. i believe there are things out there for that cheaper and more practical than the Apex, but don't hold me to it. i guess in your case with the float switches for your reservoir that could cause some sort of flood, i don't know what else would be so serious though. A timer fail and your lights stay on an extra hour?

 

[RcManChild]

@jamest0o0

Use an arduino

 

[opheliaeatsbugs]

Would you design my next enclosure?? I made my first enclosure... it was only temporary but I spent a good amount of time putting it together. Chicken wire and a hot glue gun and a pottted plant. Can't wait to see how your turn out

 

[kwengkynator]

Part 1 of 2

So, I bought my little girl who's 5 almost 6 a leopard gecko. Obviously I've been doing all the work and letting her enjoy and learn, and doing all this I think I've been bitten by the herp bug.

My local pet store is fantastic, I am very lucky. The owner is a conscientious pet owner and runs a great store with quality products and information, he actually directed me to this forum. Anyway, i had never ever in all the years of visiting this pet store I have never set foot in the herp department, I've always went straight to the reef section. Inside the herp section was a gigantic planted enclosure with the biggest freaking chameleon I had ever seen. The owner told me it was his personal Parsons chameleon and started filling my head with all kinds of ideas. He did discourage me from buying a Parsons and showed me a veiled chameleon, which was also quite big. He suggested I started with that and said having known my experience with reef aquariums that I should be able to set up a nice enclosure without much difficulty, then he directed me to this forum. I digress though.

Long story short (too late I know), I'm making plans for a veiled chameleon enclosure and I wanted to run my ideas past you kind experts here.

I plan on DIYing about 90% of this and I'm going to link some of the products when applicable. I know this is lengthy so thanks ahead of time for reading it.

Glad to have you on board you seem to be very enthusiastic and well versed on the subject of making enclosures. Glad to have you around!
THE ENCLOSURE
All in all I would like to make a weatherproof, large enclosure with a drain, a locking and hinged front panel, a hood to hide the lighting and heating and a decorative back wall.
Any idea on the measurements?
frame
Wood frame covered in epoxy paint similar to making a plywood fish tank. I'll likely use particle board and coat it with epoxy. I don't think there is much reason to use plywood.
Like mentioned earlier try looking into the chemical composition of the compounds involved and see how they would respond to prolonged heat and moisture and see if it's safe for the chameleon.
screen
1/2" PVC screen from Home Depot or lowes, my research says this is the best size.
I suggest to use a mesh screen instead. The benefits of the mesh "capturing" the mist droplets in the enclosure adds humidity stability and its great for lesser cleanup.
drainage
Vinyl Shower floor, covered in pond foam and then the foam covered in black epoxy paint for durability and looks. It will be placed on top of a cabinet with a container inside that the drainage will run into.
Great detail should be put into the drainage since it can cause major problems in the future. Although you sound like someone who knows more about that subject than I do
design
Three open sides with the back covered in epoxy, then eggcrate covered in pond foam to make it appear like a rocky surface. I may or may not grow some real climbing vines and flowers that will all but cover the wall.
Sounds amazing! Make sure to show progress pictures of the build!
LIGHTING/HEATING
This will be complicated because I need lights that will serve multiple functions to both grow the plants that are in the enclosure, provide the animal with healthy UVB, and ensure the correct heat gradient and basking abilities without using unreliable incandescent bulbs.
plant lighting
A full spectrum programmable LED light with sunrise, sunset, moonlighting and storm capabilities.
My chameleon loves to sit under my plant lights sometimes even more than my UVB lights. Although the UVB bulb is on at the same time. He just seems to really enjoy the full spectrum plant lights I have. About the moonlighting and sunset features, those might be unnecessary. The light levels are usually a trigger for the chameleon to sleep. These animals have a "third eye" called the parietal eye that is photoreceptive. This triggers their circadian rhythm and a moonlight setting might be a bit too bright for them. Although I personally have one of my chameleons in the living room and I just turn off the lights in the area (still gets a bit bright sometimes) he still gets his sleep, given that I give him a myriad of options to hide from the lights. If you want to keep your moonlight system I suggest giving him lots of covered areas to hide and make sure that there is still an obvious shift in the amount of light to trigger the sleep cycles. Now about the storm capabilities, Im absolutely at lost in what you mean by that. If what it means is what I think, it sounds awesome!
uvb
Two fluorescent fixtures.
Try having a main UVB source at the top by the basking spot and a second one covering the body of the enclosure, depending on the height.
heat
I haven't decided on this yet, I'm thinking that since the LED will be ok for the plants and it will probably be a 16" or larger fixture depending on how big I make the final enclosure, that I could probably get away with a couple of ceramic elements pointed at an angle toward the center of the light. This way he would go up top toward the led and get the heat off the elements. I have to be careful not to melt the housing on the light though, so I'm not sure what the best thing would be. My other idea would be to use a tubular heating element for an oven, stove or hot tub (hooked to a temp probe and thermostat) coiled around the outside of the enclosure protected by a heat shield. This would effectively heat the entire top of the enclosure. I'm not positive though I'm still brainstorming this. Any ideas would be helpful.
The heating elements pointed towards a specific section sounds logical to me. Try to keep the basking spot near the top of the cage by nature they are going to look for it there. The idea of heating up the full upper portion of the cage might not be the best. These animals prefer to be on top of the enclosure. I seldom see my chameleon explore the bottom 66% of his cage. Heating up the upper levels might not give your chameleon a good temperature gradient. I suggest creating at least one basking spot at the peak and making sure the other portions of the upper level will still offer a lot of temperature variation.
WATER SYSTEM
My master plan is to provide fine mist multiple times a day and a large rain simulation from the top.
The "large rain simulation" part makes me excited to see it in action. Id love to see it in action. Although Id keep the humidity in check dont go overboard.
mist
My plan is to run spray bars up the length of each corner of the enclosure. These will be fed by a pump in a reservoir under the cabinet. This will provide fine horizontal mist. I plan on running this in short bursts (like a few seconds) multiple times a day.
I suggest more than a few seconds on the misting. Make sure everything is drenched before stopping. Although if you pull off the rain simulation a few seconds a day might just be enough. Make sure that you take note of the water temperature though, especially in winter. Misting cold water on our cold-blooded friends wound not be the best for them.
rain
I plan on feeding a round droplet bar at the top of the enclosure which will be fed by a different pump.
AquaZamp is selling one of those rain domes. I heard those are great for this purpose. I havent used one myself so I cant personally vouch for them.

PLANT TYPES
My plan here is to have four types of plants, and this is one section where I need lots of help. I want vines, a hanging basket or two, ground cover, and a centerpiece.
centerpiece
I love those habiscous trees, and this is likely going to be my centerpiece plant unless there are objections.
I havent tried those myself so I cant see how they fair indoors but many have had great success with it here.
Hanging basket plant.
I have no idea here, preferably in my mind I am picturing something that grows downward toward the centerpiece.
POTHOS, they come in many colors and variations plus very hardy plants. I have them in all my cages BIG FAN! Plus they can also be your dangling vines you can suspend midair and let the vines drip down to the bottom of the cage.
Vines
Not a clue, I hope to have these growing from the bottom up attaching themselves to the pond foam wall in the back.
MORE POTHOS!
Ground cover
Again, no clue here. My hope is to have some short plants growing around the centerpiece.

Personally I dont use any ground cover for my cages. Easier to clean and wipe down and less things my cham might ingest. I just make sure that I cover my soil (the ones in the pot for the plants) with medium sized white stones. Also prey cant dig and hide away from your chameleon.

 

[kwengkynator]

Part 2 of 2

AUTOMATION/REDUNDANCY
My general rule on making anything complex and automated is to have at least three fail safes with one being a last resort property damage prevention method. I want to be able to turn systems on and off when I am gone, and be able to be notified of when a system fails. So I will be using a Neptune apex for this build. I am once again going to divide this section up into the to make it easier to read.
I do love automation! I wish one day they can have one set up with Alexa from amazon.
temp control
I will need four temp probes with the apex, one will be inside the hood that contains the lights, one will be inside the enclosure toward the top and one will be directly below the basking area and the final one will be sitting directly on top of the hood itself on the outside.
If you're gonna plan on going in this pricey path go ahead. Im a fan on incorporating this level of tech to our pets. Although I must inform you during the life stages of my chameleons I went through 3 cages. Make sure you dont put too much investment in the initial cage just fundamentals and go all out once they reached full maturity, saves time.
hood
When the temp gets above a set point, the apex will turn on a few large PC fans that will ventilate the hood. If the temperature drops below an acceptable level the fans will be shut off. This will keep down energy consumption and noise. When the temp starts to get higher than the set point, the apex will turn off the heating elements and send me a text alert that they have been shut down. If the outside temp probe sitting on the hood reaches a certain temp the apex will shut down everything inside the hood (all lights, all elements) and panic text me.
System sounds neat! Make sure you make a note of the temperature variability on multiple areas I mentioned earlier.
basking area
Temp above set point turn off element. Temp below set point turn on element. If the LED goes into storm mode, turn off element. Turn off element at a set time, turn on element at a set time. Simple. If temp above set point at set time, text me. If temp below set point at set time, text me.
Great set up and the amount of info and control is beyond what I currently have at my cages. I wish my cage would text me if humidity is low.
top of enclosure ambient
Temp above set point turn off element, temp below set point turn on element, turn off elements at a set time, turn off elements at a set time, simple. Again, if temp falls below set temp at set time, text me. If temp rises above set point at set time, text me.

WATER CONTROL/HUMIDITY CONTROL
I'm going for efficient, recyclable and safe. The main drain at the bottom of the enclosure will be directed into a reservoir inside the cabinet the enclosure will be sitting on. Inside this cabinet will be a humistat, two PC fans will be on either side of the cabinet, multiple float switches and pumps will be inside the reservoir, a humistat will be inside the enclosure, and a few large PC fans will be on the side of the enclosure itself (protected from toes). One pump inside the reservoir will supply the rainfall system, one pump will supply the misting system, and one pump will be the emergency drain pump. The entire reservoir will be fed by my RODI storage container that I use for my reef.
Sounds complex yet efficient. This is beyond what I have dealt with myself in the past so Im gonna pass it to the other members.
reservoir feed
Two float switchs will placed a few inches above the bottom (minimum water level) of the reservoir, and at the top of the reservoir (maximum water level). When the bottom float drops, and minimum operating level has been reached, the pump inside the RO/DI container will come on and pump water into the reservoir until the top float rises. The top float will shut the pump off. The inlet from the water pump will have a float valve on it, so in case the top float sticks, the float valve will shut off the water supply from the pump. At the very top of the reservoir will be an emergency float switch that is supposed to remain dry. So should the float switch fail, and the float valve fail, the emergency float will activate the emergency drain pump, start draining the reservoir and panic text me. I will also have water alarms in the floor next to the tank, so if they get wet, the apex will panic text me as well.
enclosure humidty
I can't imagine this being a problem, but with only 3 sides, a lot of water and live plants I imagine it could be. So inside will be a humistat connected to the apex and PC fans on either side of the enclosure (again, protected from little feet). When the humidity reaches a set point, the fans will come on. When it gets below a set point, the fans will turn off. Simple.

rain/mist
Apex will turn on the rain pump which is in the reservoir under the cabinet. Turn on at a certain time, turn off at a certain time. The apex maps and monitors voltage draw from the outlets, so if the pump is supposed to be on and is drawing power less than a set point, text me. The same will happen with the mist pump, just on a different time schedule.

LIGHTING
Im going for the most natural approach possible here. As I said before Im planning on using a full spectrum programmable LED fixture that can do sunrise, sunset, and storm functions. I will likely call a place for a custom LED layout as I will need spectrums different than a reef tank, Less blue and less low NM with wider lenses. I havent mapped out the spectrum yet but thats on my research list.
LED light
I will likely call up reefbreeders, reefbrite, ecotech or another manufacturer and see about a custom layout as mentioned above. The sunrise/sunset will be managed by the apex and hopefully I can get some nice colors during both dusk and dawn to simulate the sunrise. Ill have to take a look at the times in their natural habitat and when dusk/dawn usually happens, then I will just time it accordingly. Random storm mode will be fun with random times that the light will dim, the white leds will flash like lightning and the rain system pump will come on. That added with the humidity fans may end up being pretty natural.
uvb
I think I have decided at this point to do a higher concentration for a shorter time period. Instead of running UVB for the entire day, just running it at peak times with the brightest period of the day, possibly from 9am till 4pm or something depending on when the peak times are in the natural habitat. My original plan was to use a dimmable t5 fixture to handle all the lighting and just ditch the fun storm mode, but I cant for the life of me find a dimmable t5 bulb. If anyone knows where I can find one, please point me there. The apex will also control the photoperiod for the UVB.
With your full spectrum lights at play, you should be able to get away with just running the UVB at natural peak hours. Although extending it a bit more isn't going to harm and most likely benefit the chameleon. I do suggest checking if your lights give enough UVB rays if you wish to run a time specific UVB bulb.

CONCLUSION
So, As you can see I really need some specifics here that are mentioned. I know this has been a long post and I appreciate everyone sticking with me. Any help or input will be greatly appreciated.

regards,
Ben

With your enthusiasm and desire to give the best habitat you can I'm sure you'll be a great keeper. I'm curious what your aquariums look like. You should post a pic

Also after done thinking about an enclosure for your chameleon its time to think about the enclosures for your chameleon's food! Have fun!

 

[Tackett]

I can post a few pics of the reef, it is only a 75g, mostly softies LPS and a few less demanding SPS like green slimers, pocillopora, stylo and the like in the higher flow areas. Lower flow areas I have A toadstool, a sinularia, a Devils hand, a Favia brain, a scan and some rock flower nems. Closer to the center I have a good sized torch, a large hammer colony, frogspawn and a couple more euphyllia. In the center where the flow is the highest is where all these sps is that I mentioned.

Everything flows downstairs through the wall to the basement where I have a rubber maid stock tank and I'm growing some cheato and some other macros like dragons breath, red ribbon algae, blue hypnea, and red gracilaria. Downstairs I have everything hooked to an Apex and I have a stenner dual head peristaltic pump doing duty as an automatic water changer. I have some more odds and ends down there like a salt mix station obviously, a kalk stirrer, etc.

Fish wise I'm pretty heavily stocked. I have a Harem of lyretail Anthias, a one spot foxface, a flame hawk, a gigantic engineer goby who is pushing two feet, a Kole tang and a green mandarin and some more I'm probably forgetting about at the moment. Inverts are few and far between, I have some snails and hermits but the flame hawk and engineer prettt much devistate anything they can fit in their mouths. All in all I'm happy with how it turned out. Some pics below of anyone is interested.

Rock flower

Fire fish

Favia brain

One half of the basement setup

Ro/di unit

One of the female anthias, sinilaria is in the background

Overflow in the wall on the other side (since have covered it with a door)

One of the QT tanks and the salt mix station

Pic of the display in the living room (the lights have just started to ramp up so everything is still kind of hiding from last night, usually it takes till about 12-4 before everything becomes really active. That and the kole and fox face are really shy. Any movement and they bolt.)

I think I have progress pics of all this insanity coming together at one point but I don't think anyone wants to see it.

 

[Tackett]

Anyway, so let me see if I can condense the advice in this thread:

1: dial down the complexity.

So I will ditch the storm mode and just go with a full spectrum LED fixture like one of the ones I have on my tank in the pics above (maybe two depending on how big this enclosure gets). I really want a light I can ramp up. It's my opinion that animals do better when light sources ramp up and down as they do in nature.

2: ditch the temp gradient.
So I need to not worry about heating the entire top of the enclosure and just provide a basking light? I need to do some searching and see how everyone handles this.

3: cover all the potted soil with rocks


Anything else?

 

[JGspecial]

youre kinda like me with your perfectly done setups i dont have the complicated weather stuff you describe but heres what i got for my 3 chams. everything is self sufficient, all i have to do is pick up poops, empty my old water buckets, and occasionally change out my waterline filter. i havent had to clean my enclosures yet.

 

[PJK]

A proper basking light will provide appropriate temp gradient. You could also go with a higher wattage bulb and throw it on a dimmer, so you could dial it in. As far as plants go, Hibiscus are beautiful, but they are notoriously hard to keep alive/healthy. I have had nothing but trouble with them. If you want the color, you could throw in a mature Bromeliad. Its got a nice big flower in it. Just food for thought. But simplicity can be your best friend as far as setup goes. More stuff, more cleaning, more can go wrong.

 

[jamest0o0]

1) personally i like complexity in a lot of ways, keeps things interesting. That's personal preference. I would just make sure it serves some sort of purpose.

2) you do want temp gradients, by basking light i mean have a dome fixture pointed at one corner at the top of the enclosure. That way he can move horizontally in and out of it if he wishes. Rather than just having warm temps at the entire top of the enclosure. Most chams tend to stay as high up as they can and they aren't good at knowing what is too hot for them to handle.

3) you could use rocks( large enough they can't be eaten). i was surprised when i first saw how wide their jaws open. Substrate isn't totally out of the question if you want to go that route. Look into bioactive, if you do reefs, that should be no problem for you. Bioactive enclosures remind me a little of setting up a reef on land. Soil isn't dangerous, it is the large chunks of rocks, sticks, etc that are often in soil. I've heard coconut fiber can build up in their system as well. Mosses with spines are also impaction risks. I haven't seen anyone say that fine grained soil or sand has ever caused an impaction, but who knows i guess it is possible. There are benefits to it though if done right(minimal cleaning, holds humidity).

 

[kwengkynator]

Anyway, so let me see if I can condense the advice in this thread:

1: dial down the complexity.
So I will ditch the storm mode and just go with a full spectrum LED fixture like one of the ones I have on my tank in the pics above (maybe two depending on how big this enclosure gets). I really want a light I can ramp up. It's my opinion that animals do better when light sources ramp up and down as they do in nature.
I wouldn't necessarily say dial down the complexity. I sense that you are one of those people that like to do big DIY projects. My dad is the same, got a big automated greenhouse. Just keep in mind that if you're starting with a small chameleon it may be best to start with a smaller cage with just basic necessities then once its full grown go all out.
2: ditch the temp gradient.
So I need to not worry about heating the entire top of the enclosure and just provide a basking light? I need to do some searching and see how everyone handles this.
What I meant was making sure there is a proper temperature gradient available within the coverage of your UVB lights. A basking spot with some heating elements pointed towards it and a light illuminating it would normally suffice. Just make sure that maybe 10 inches from that spot on the same level there is other perches that offer a cooler temperature. Heating the entire top section might still be a good choice. Since temperature variation is needed throughout a chameleons day they can just go up and down the cage more frequent. That is if you make sure that the bottom portion of the cage will still receive ample amounts of UVB rays (making note that UVB rays dont travel that much). Since you would pair this with a rain simulator too much heat shouldn't be an issue. I would still urge you to keep a keen eye out though. Chameleons tend to think they can handle more heat than they actually can.
3: cover all the potted soil with rocks
Can't go wrong with that.

Anything else?

For anything else that can be covered here are the chameleon care sheets. Everything you need to know in the beginning should be here.

https://www.chameleonforums.com/care/

Dont get hesitant about going big on your chameleon cage. A lot of people here have given great care to their pets with just the basic builds doesn't mean your intricate one is overboard. Make sure you have your chameleon's best interest first and you should be good.

 

[Tackett]

I'm going to re-read all these replies a couple of times and redo my plan. I'm also in the process of drawing some stuff on paper before I go into sketchup with it. I'll post my plan v2, and hopefully have some visuals for everyone to help me chew on this a little more.