New owner here… help.
- Thread starter LibraryLadywChemeleon1
- Start date
LibraryLadywChemeleon1
New Member
I’m a librarian at an elementary schoo… my hope is to be able to take her to school with me and home in the evening
LibraryLadywChemeleon1
New Member
How much should she be eating daily? I feed her twice a day… I have not seen her drink… I have feed her 3 crickets last night sept 23… not eaten today 24th.
@MissSkittles @Gloriawood
@MissSkittles @Gloriawood
Gloriawood
Chameleon Enthusiast
So I’m going to let missskittles tell you exactly how much to feed her. I know that with females we feed a little less so that they produce smaller clutches of eggs. BUT your girl isn’t full grown yet so I’m not positive. I’m also going to let her review your husbandry as she will be much better at it than me. She’s on here quite often so I’m sure she will see this.
As far as drinking, chameleons tend to be shy drinkers. I’ve had mine since late February and have only seen him drink one time. This is not at all uncommon. We can judge their hydration by monitoring their urates (the white part of their poo) mostly white is hydrated. Orange or yellow is dehydrated. It’s ok to have some yellow or orange at one end, just MOSTLY white. You will learn quick that we watch their poo a lot
it tells us quite a bit about them
Sherbertsmysunshine
Chameleon Enthusiast
I just want to add, taking your chameleon to a school and back every day probably isn't a good idea. these are very shy animals and take a while to get used to their new environment. I would leave her home, let her stay in her cage for a while, and not handle her until at least a week after being in her new cage/home.
LibraryLadywChemeleon1
New Member
I was thinking that too. I want her to bond with me and not be scared of me. So far she is settling in well.
Sherbertsmysunshine
Chameleon Enthusiast
Maby when she is more use to her cage. you could bring her to your school, but I still wouldn't do it often.
like mentioned, @MissSkittles knows way more about this stuff. I know she will help your little lady thrive!
Steve A
Chameleon Enthusiast
I think you should prepare yourself to never think of it as her "bonding" with you. Now, we see videos of people handing their chameleons a lot, and some of them SEEM to want to be handled, etc. And maybe that is true in some circumstances. But at the end of the day, that 'bond' is almost certainly 100% food driven. They're not the type of animal that will truly form a bond with you like a dog for example.
However, the issue with bringing her to school is not you, it's the entire process. Removing her from her environment often, taking her to a place where there's going to be a bunch of kids, etc.... it just wouldn't be good for her IMO.
I could be wrong about this, but I think this would be like you are constantly "re-introducing" her to both enclosures/environments. And this (again IMO) will stress her out extremely, and that to me sounds like something that would probably threaten her life. Chameleons get stressed very easily.
Please keep in mind I'm a newer keeper myself. I've learned a lot, but let's see what some of the more experienced keepers have to say about this. I would definitely wait to see how they feel about it before doing it. I am under the impression that although it is okay to ship them once.... they really shouldn't be traveling with any frequency, unless you have to move.
MissSkittles
Chameleon Enthusiast
You’ve been getting some terrific input already. Pardon if I may repeat some. 
Your sweet little girl is maybe somewhere around 4 months or so. I’m not so great at guessing and i can only go by the size of her casque. Right now you should be feeding her once a day in the morning. The amount is never easy to figure for a girl of this age and I probably give a different number every time, but she still has some growing to do. I’m going to say to give her maybe 15+ feeders of appropriate size daily. Your feeders need to be smaller than the space between her eyes, and it’s better to err on the side of being too small rather than too big. Veileds grow very quickly and as young as 5-6 months old she could be sexually mature and producing eggs. It’s essential to get your husbandry as perfect as possible ASAP for any chameleon, but even more so for young ones and our veiled girls. Young chameleons have no resources to fall back upon and if their husbandry isn’t correct in all aspects, they can decline and pass quickly. Right now, I’m going to direct you to the most accurate and up to date source of husbandry. https://chameleonacademy.com/chameleon-basics/ Do make sure to read thru all and also check out the species specific info for veileds. As you’ve seen, we are a helpful bunch so ask whatever questions you have and someone will do their best. I’m going to search Petco’s website and provide you with links of the items needed. There is still much more to be said about care of our sweet girls, but we have a bit of time.
Your sweet little girl is maybe somewhere around 4 months or so. I’m not so great at guessing and i can only go by the size of her casque. Right now you should be feeding her once a day in the morning. The amount is never easy to figure for a girl of this age and I probably give a different number every time, but she still has some growing to do. I’m going to say to give her maybe 15+ feeders of appropriate size daily. Your feeders need to be smaller than the space between her eyes, and it’s better to err on the side of being too small rather than too big. Veileds grow very quickly and as young as 5-6 months old she could be sexually mature and producing eggs. It’s essential to get your husbandry as perfect as possible ASAP for any chameleon, but even more so for young ones and our veiled girls. Young chameleons have no resources to fall back upon and if their husbandry isn’t correct in all aspects, they can decline and pass quickly. Right now, I’m going to direct you to the most accurate and up to date source of husbandry. https://chameleonacademy.com/chameleon-basics/ Do make sure to read thru all and also check out the species specific info for veileds. As you’ve seen, we are a helpful bunch so ask whatever questions you have and someone will do their best. I’m going to search Petco’s website and provide you with links of the items needed. There is still much more to be said about care of our sweet girls, but we have a bit of time.
Gloriawood
Chameleon Enthusiast
May also check chewy.com. I got my enclosure there super cheap as a new customer they gave me $50 off.You’ve been getting some terrific input already. Pardon if I may repeat some.
Your sweet little girl is maybe somewhere around 4 months or so. I’m not so great at guessing and i can only go by the size of her casque. Right now you should be feeding her once a day in the morning. The amount is never easy to figure for a girl of this age and I probably give a different number every time, but she still has some growing to do. I’m going to say to give her maybe 15+ feeders of appropriate size daily. Your feeders need to be smaller than the space between her eyes, and it’s better to err on the side of being too small rather than too big. Veileds grow very quickly and as young as 5-6 months old she could be sexually mature and producing eggs. It’s essential to get your husbandry as perfect as possible ASAP for any chameleon, but even more so for young ones and our veiled girls. Young chameleons have no resources to fall back upon and if their husbandry isn’t correct in all aspects, they can decline and pass quickly. Right now, I’m going to direct you to the most accurate and up to date source of husbandry. https://chameleonacademy.com/chameleon-basics/ Do make sure to read thru all and also check out the species specific info for veileds. As you’ve seen, we are a helpful bunch so ask whatever questions you have and someone will do their best. I’m going to search Petco’s website and provide you with links of the items needed. There is still much more to be said about care of our sweet girls, but we have a bit of time.
MissSkittles
Chameleon Enthusiast
XL ReptiBreeze 2x2x4’. https://www.petco.com/shop/en/petco...arge-reptibreeze-open-air-screen-cage-1348442
Multivitamin/D3 combo supplement. https://www.petco.com/shop/en/petcostore/product/zoo-med-reptivite-reptile-vitamins
Dimming basking light fixture. https://www.petco.com/shop/en/petcostore/product/flukers-clamp-lamp-with-dimmer
UVB bulb. https://www.petco.com/shop/en/petcostore/product/zoo-med-reptisun-50-uvb-t5-ho-lamp
**they do not sell the needed fixture**
Thermometer. https://www.petco.com/shop/en/petcostore/product/zoo-med-digital-thermometer-1120646 **does not include hygrometer & price is too high
Unfortunately, Petco doesn’t have very much that is appropriate or usable for a chameleon. The correct uvb light & fixture is absolutely necessary. Here are other links of products needed for reasonable prices.
UVB T5HO fixture and 5.0 bulb. https://www.lllreptile.com/products/22468-zoo-med-30-t5-high-output-terrarium-hood
Dual thermometer/hygrometer https://www.lllreptile.com/products/34330-zoo-med-digital-combo-thermometer-humidity-gauge **much better price!
Fake vine https://www.lllreptile.com/products/37124-pangea-ultimate-vine-green
Misting bottle (manual) https://www.lllreptile.com/products/15331-exo-terra-pressure-spray-bottle
Things to avoid could be quite a long list. Do keep in mind that I did look carefully through the reptile supplies and did product searches on Petco’s site. An example of the point I’m trying to make is Petco sells vines, but they are either mossy, slick or Exo Terra‘s and none of those are good for chameleons for varied reasons (fake moss can be ingested & cause impaction, slick=slippery, Exo Terra’s shed tiny particles that always seem to get into little googly eyes). The fake vine from LLL Reptile is appropriate and I use that type for my own chameleons. I don’t use more than one vine per enclosure as I prefer branches that I’ve scavenged and cleaned. Oak is perfect. Scrub with dish soap, rinse well and sun-dry. Live plants only are best and they need to be safe as veileds will eat them. Pothos is a favorite of most chameleon keepers.
I’ve talked enough for now and will turn things over to another member. If needed, just @ me.
Multivitamin/D3 combo supplement. https://www.petco.com/shop/en/petcostore/product/zoo-med-reptivite-reptile-vitamins
Dimming basking light fixture. https://www.petco.com/shop/en/petcostore/product/flukers-clamp-lamp-with-dimmer
UVB bulb. https://www.petco.com/shop/en/petcostore/product/zoo-med-reptisun-50-uvb-t5-ho-lamp
**they do not sell the needed fixture**
Thermometer. https://www.petco.com/shop/en/petcostore/product/zoo-med-digital-thermometer-1120646 **does not include hygrometer & price is too high
Unfortunately, Petco doesn’t have very much that is appropriate or usable for a chameleon. The correct uvb light & fixture is absolutely necessary. Here are other links of products needed for reasonable prices.
UVB T5HO fixture and 5.0 bulb. https://www.lllreptile.com/products/22468-zoo-med-30-t5-high-output-terrarium-hood
Dual thermometer/hygrometer https://www.lllreptile.com/products/34330-zoo-med-digital-combo-thermometer-humidity-gauge **much better price!
Fake vine https://www.lllreptile.com/products/37124-pangea-ultimate-vine-green
Misting bottle (manual) https://www.lllreptile.com/products/15331-exo-terra-pressure-spray-bottle
Things to avoid could be quite a long list. Do keep in mind that I did look carefully through the reptile supplies and did product searches on Petco’s site. An example of the point I’m trying to make is Petco sells vines, but they are either mossy, slick or Exo Terra‘s and none of those are good for chameleons for varied reasons (fake moss can be ingested & cause impaction, slick=slippery, Exo Terra’s shed tiny particles that always seem to get into little googly eyes). The fake vine from LLL Reptile is appropriate and I use that type for my own chameleons. I don’t use more than one vine per enclosure as I prefer branches that I’ve scavenged and cleaned. Oak is perfect. Scrub with dish soap, rinse well and sun-dry. Live plants only are best and they need to be safe as veileds will eat them. Pothos is a favorite of most chameleon keepers.
I’ve talked enough for now and will turn things over to another member. If needed, just @ me.
Please make sure you read through all the posts in your thread you will not get alerts on every post done and a lot of people are giving you important info.
May I please see a few more pics of her face and eyes close up on both sides... In one of the pics you posted she appears to have an eye issue and I would like to double check.
May I please see a few more pics of her face and eyes close up on both sides... In one of the pics you posted she appears to have an eye issue and I would like to double check.
LibraryLadywChemeleon1
New Member
LibraryLadywChemeleon1
New Member
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MissSkittles
Chameleon Enthusiast
Looks a bit mucousy to my eyes. It’s always a good idea to have a veterinary wellness check (meet your vet) and have a fecal check.
MzLaurie11
Avid Member
Welcome to the wonderful world of chameleons! I kniw what you r thinking, what have i gotten myself into! Yes we all go thru that at first. There is so much to learn! A veiled will double in size every two to three weeks till about a year old. Girls a little less. so whatever you get at this point, get it for a bigger cage that u can get in the future. A linear uvb is the only light that will give your girl what she needs. Without it, mbd, metobolic bone disease. Heartbreaking. Get a 24" reptisun uvb it will hang over the sides till you upgrade and thats fine. No fake plants. Veileds eat plants especially girls and one nibbke will cause impaction. Flukers makes bend a branch with no fake leabes or miss on it that is very reasonable. Heres the light and supplements she needs. She will also need a basking light with a dimmer switch. 75 watt bulb and place it 6 to 8 inches above her basking branch. I keep a theremeter at the basking spot so it if gets too hot i can dim it to where it needs to be. The pic if the cage is 2x2x4 which seems huge at first. But you got to have plenty of vines and sticks ( size of your pinky unless used to bear weight) their little splayed hands are made for staying and climbing in the trees! by 6 months she will need a laybin there us plenty if videos on utube about them. Like chickens, they lay if fertile or not. I suggest you go to chameleon academy online they have great advice on setup etc.. With re to eating, ask the breeder what the schefule was and what was her main food. Wirhveikeds it usually small crickets and bsfl or phoenix worms i get mine fresh from rainbiwmealworms.net. she us too young for hornworms but wax worms can be used as treats that you can feed off of your hand. Also small mealworms can be left in thw frig and last forever. I wish you thebest of luck. Oh if you are going to hand mist, i suggest you get flukers splashproof bulbs. They last longer and dont break as easy.
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Newtoreptiles
Member
Don't know much about chameleons but they are very watch don't touch animals, some tolerate interaction but its nothing that they enjoy.
Ok, you said she was from petco... They tend to use the wrong supplementation with chams. With eyes like your girls this could be due to incorrect supplementation but it could also be due to an infection.
So I would recommend getting her scheduled to see a good reptile vet to get a fecal sample. DO NOT let them give a vitamin shot if they want to.
We need to get your husbandry on point which includes her entire cage set up with correct lighting, supplementation, and feeding.
Did you read through the husbandry program here? https://chameleonacademy.com/chameleon-husbandry-program-getting-started-with-chameleons/
With females it is really important to get everything correct as soon as you can. Because they lay infertile eggs like a chicken will. So we adjust temps and feeding schedule and provide a permanent lay bin in the cage.
Here is some info on females specifically... I am betting she is right around 5 months right now.
As she matures you will have to start cutting back her food. By about 6-7 months she should be getting about 5-8 small feeders each day. At about 7-8 months you want to slowly reduce by cutting down feeder amounts so that she is on a feeding schedule of 3 days a week with 3 feeders. You want them to be on this schedule by the time they are 9-10 months old.
You will not ever want basking to be over 78-80 for her. Very important for females because as she ages she needs this temp no higher at basking to help control the amount of eggs she produces. The hotter the temp they more their metabolism speeds up so we have to keep the temp lower since we are doing lower food intake.
A lay bin should be added as a permanent fixture by the time they are 6 months old so they get used to it and it does not cause stress.
https://www.chameleonforums.com/threads/laying-bin-set-up-educational-video.77225/
Note I would not be taking her to school with you. Chameleons are not the lets travel together pets. You will cause far more stress than her body can handle. Stress will reduce her immune system and make her more susceptible to infection as well.
So I would recommend getting her scheduled to see a good reptile vet to get a fecal sample. DO NOT let them give a vitamin shot if they want to.
We need to get your husbandry on point which includes her entire cage set up with correct lighting, supplementation, and feeding.
Did you read through the husbandry program here? https://chameleonacademy.com/chameleon-husbandry-program-getting-started-with-chameleons/
With females it is really important to get everything correct as soon as you can. Because they lay infertile eggs like a chicken will. So we adjust temps and feeding schedule and provide a permanent lay bin in the cage.
Here is some info on females specifically... I am betting she is right around 5 months right now.
As she matures you will have to start cutting back her food. By about 6-7 months she should be getting about 5-8 small feeders each day. At about 7-8 months you want to slowly reduce by cutting down feeder amounts so that she is on a feeding schedule of 3 days a week with 3 feeders. You want them to be on this schedule by the time they are 9-10 months old.
You will not ever want basking to be over 78-80 for her. Very important for females because as she ages she needs this temp no higher at basking to help control the amount of eggs she produces. The hotter the temp they more their metabolism speeds up so we have to keep the temp lower since we are doing lower food intake.
A lay bin should be added as a permanent fixture by the time they are 6 months old so they get used to it and it does not cause stress.
https://www.chameleonforums.com/threads/laying-bin-set-up-educational-video.77225/
Note I would not be taking her to school with you. Chameleons are not the lets travel together pets. You will cause far more stress than her body can handle. Stress will reduce her immune system and make her more susceptible to infection as well.
ChamelaChameleon
Chameleon Enthusiast
Chewy is offering a 30.00 egift card w/100.00 purchase.
