New Rescued Veiled Chameleon - Any Advice?

[Betta_Koi]

Hi everybody,
I just recently rescued a Veiled Chameleon from my work. She was showing either old signs of MBD or very early signs of it. She wasn't going to get the help she needed where she was so she's mine now and has a vet appointment tomorrow.
Her name is Kodak and I have no idea how old she is I just know she is much larger then the Chameleons we normally get in (which usually seems to indicate the breeders knew there was something wrong with her. It's becoming a pattern with the older reptiles we get.) She'd also gravid and trying to dig her tunnel and lay as we speak.
I've had arboreal reptiles before but nothing like a female veiled chameleon. I'm flying mostly blind her. I've been dusting her feeders with calcium but I've been reading that the D3 in it can be dangerous if used everyday. I live in Utah where it is currently winter so I can't really give her natural sunlight without her freezing to death. I don't know if she's ever been outside or had natural UV. She has a UVB 5.0 light in her tank but I was wondering how bad it is to dust with D3 calcium daily since we can't really take her outside at the moment, and if it is dangerous, where I can get non-D3 calcium because my work doesn't seem to carry it.
She's currently not showing much interest in food but that seems to be because she'd preggers. She also has a heating pad and a regular light bulb that seems to be keeping her quite warm. She has three live plants in her tank as well. Again, I'm completely new to Veils and Chameleons (especially females) in general. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

 

[JaguarShark]

Hello, welcome to you and little Kodak.

For what seems to be the main question (about supplements) it would depend on the concentration of D3 in the powder. Some are designed to be for daily use. If you do need a different one then there are plenty of sites to buy from online, some of the sponsors of this site will do anything you need.

Here is the basic information that everyone on the site will agree with for looking after Veileds (things like temps etc.) - https://www.chameleonforums.com/care/caresheets/veiled/

You obviously know the basics for what you need to do, and you've come to the right place for any specific questions you might have. If you post pics of her and the setup including her laying bin it would be very useful to see it to advise on possible improvements.
My main advice to new keepers once they have the setup right is always to make sure the diet is as good and varied as possible. After that it's all about the experience

 

[CJ's Exotics]

I wouldn't put a heat pad to underneath. What are the temps in the basking or hot spot, bottom, and ambient or middle?

 

[Betta_Koi]

We keep our house pretty cold for medical reasons and she's by a window so her temps without the pad (which is rather old and taped on the side of the cage between her and the window) usually drop below 60. She's turned around in her tunnel right now and hopefully laying so I can't really give an accurate temp at the moment but with pad and light the last few days she stays around 72-75 sometimes 80 if she's by her light. I've only had her for 3 days but she'll be getting a larger cage and better lighting after the vet tells me what her chances are. She may be running a little warmer today though since we have her covered so she can lay in peace. Normally I only use the pad as night heat since I don't have a ceramic heater as of yet but the house is pretty chilly right now so I've got both on.

 

[CJ's Exotics]

We keep our house pretty cold for medical reasons and she's by a window so her temps without the pad (which is rather old and taped on the side of the cage between her and the window) usually drop below 60. She's turned around in her tunnel right now and hopefully laying so I can't really give an accurate temp at the moment but with pad and light the last few days she stays around 72-75 sometimes 80 if she's by her light. I've only had her for 3 days but she'll be getting a larger cage and better lighting after the vet tells me what her chances are. She may be running a little warmer today though since we have her covered so she can lay in peace. Normally I only use the pad as night heat since I don't have a ceramic heater as of yet but the house is pretty chilly right now so I've got both on.

So her basking spot is 80, ambient is ?, and the bottom is 60? Am I correct?

 

[Betta_Koi]

I believe so yes. I have more experience with Beardies so this more mild temperature thing really throws me. If she wasn't laying (or napping butt first in her laying tunnel, I can't tell - again, new to both chameleons and females, I usually have boys) I'd be able to give you ambient but it's usually in the 70s or at least it has been the last few days.

 

[CJ's Exotics]

I believe so yes. I have more experience with Beardies so this more mild temperature thing really throws me. If she wasn't laying (or napping butt first in her laying tunnel, I can't tell - again, new to both chameleons and females, I usually have boys) I'd be able to give you ambient but it's usually in the 70s or at least it has been the last few days.

Ok, post pics please.

 

[Betta_Koi]

Hello, welcome to you and little Kodak.

For what seems to be the main question (about supplements) it would depend on the concentration of D3 in the powder. Some are designed to be for daily use. If you do need a different one then there are plenty of sites to buy from online, some of the sponsors of this site will do anything you need.

Here is the basic information that everyone on the site will agree with for looking after Veileds (things like temps etc.) - https://www.chameleonforums.com/care/caresheets/veiled/

You obviously know the basics for what you need to do, and you've come to the right place for any specific questions you might have. If you post pics of her and the setup including her laying bin it would be very useful to see it to advise on possible improvements.
My main advice to new keepers once they have the setup right is always to make sure the diet is as good and varied as possible. After that it's all about the experience

Thank you! I've had reptiles before but mostly Beardies and I rescued a Green Anole a while back but their needs are not nearly as intense as Chameleons. The care sheet was very helpful. I appreciated it. I was wondering, is there anyway to tell age based on size? I know she's old enough to be making eggs but that's all I really know. She also has a pretty skinny tail compared to the pictures I've seen. I know she's not in perfect health but I was wondering if the tail size is something I need to worry about like I would with certain geckos.

 

[CJ's Exotics]

Thank you! I've had reptiles before but mostly Beardies and I rescued a Green Anole a while back but their needs are not nearly as intense as Chameleons. The care sheet was very helpful. I appreciated it. I was wondering, is there anyway to tell age based on size? I know she's old enough to be making eggs but that's all I really know. She also has a pretty skinny tail compared to the pictures I've seen. I know she's not in perfect health but I was wondering if the tail size is something I need to worry about like I would with certain geckos.

Pictures please.

 

[Betta_Koi]

I haven't taken a whole lot but here's a couple.

 

[Joseph 1233]

I haven't taken a whole lot but here's a couple.

I think she looks a bit dehydrated.

 

[JaguarShark]

She look to be about 8 months old. It's a guess, because a lot depends on nutrition and temps she was kept at before. She does seem a little undernourished, but not too bad. Might be a problem if the laying doesn't go well, but we'll just have to hope it does.

I have to say, there doesn't seem to be gravid colours or much sign of egg bulges though....

 

[CJ's Exotics]

She seems very dehydrated and gravid.

 

[kinyonga]

I can't see the photos...can you post them again please.

You said...We keep our house pretty cold for medical reasons and she's by a window so her temps without the pad (which is rather old and taped on the side of the cage between her and the window) usually drop below 60".. I would move the cage away from the window if possible. It can lead to respiratory infections if it's drafty/chilly. They can take temperatures down to the low 60's with no problem at night as long as they have a basking temperature in the low to mid 80's F during the day.

You said..." She's turned around in her tunnel right now and hopefully laying so I can't really give an accurate temp at the moment but with pad and light the last few days she stays around 72-75 sometimes 80 if she's by her light. I've only had her for 3 days but she'll be getting a larger cage and better lighting after the vet tells me what her chances are. She may be running a little warmer today though since we have her covered so she can lay in peace. Normally I only use the pad as night heat since I don't have a ceramic heater as of yet but the house is pretty chilly right now so I've got both on"...Hopefully she lays the eggs. If she fills in the tunnel and hasn't laid the eggs then she may be eggbound.

Chameleons 101...
If you've kept beardies than you should have no real problems keeping chameleons except for possible egg laying problems.

Supplements...I use a phosphorus-free calcium powder lightly at almost every feeding to help make up fro the usually poor ratio of calcium to phosphorus found in most feeder insects.

I dust twice a month with a phosphorus-free calcium/D3 powder to ensure the chameleon gets some but doesn't overdose on D3 since supplemental D3 can build up in the system...and I leave the chameleon to produce the rest of the D3 from it's exposure to the UVB light.

I dust twice a month with a vitamin powder that contains a beta carotene proFormed source of vitamin A (no D3)...this won't build up in the system like prEformed vitamin A will but it leaves it up to you to decide whether/if the chameleon needs any prEformed vitamin A.

I use a reptisun 5.0 long linear UVB light...and a white incandescent household bulb for a basking light of a wattage that puts the basking temperature for a female veiled into the low 80's F. No lights are on at night. Basking at the proper temperature AIDS in digestion and thus plays a part in nutrient absorption.

Of course hydration is important too. I use a mister and dripper...both off at night so the cage can dry out.

It's important to have healthy insects so I gutload/feed crickets, locusts, roaches, superworms, etc with greens, veggies and a bit of fruit....all of which can be offered to the veiled chameleon too. I use dandelion greens, kale, escarole, endive, collards, carrots, squash, zucchini, sweet red pepper, sweet potato, berries, apples, pears, melon, etc. Of course other insects are fed their appropriate foods too.

With veiled females if they are constantly overfeed once sexually mature they will produce large clutches, can develop MBD and prolapses and have other health issues too...so it's important to keep them on a controlled "diet" once they are mature.

A female veiled can produce eggs every 120 or so days. Things should go ok as long as she is well cared for (although there can be physical issues that cause problems) but if a female shows lethargy, sits low in the cage, has her eyes shut during the day, phantom lays, etc. She needs to go to a vet asap sincemthese are signs of eggbinding. (Phantom lays...digs a hole...turns around butt down and seems to be laying eggs...fills the hole in and returns to the branches but didn't lay eggs).

Egglaying...make sure she has an opaque container at least 12" deep x 12" x8" (bigger is better) in her cage at all times once mature. I fill it with moist (moist enough to hold a tunnel..but not wetter than that) washed playsand.
I hope this helps.

 

[Betta_Koi]

Here they are, plus some more. I've had success rehydrating other reptiles with small doses of Pedialite. Any reason that might not work for chameleons? Her vet appointment is tomorrow morning, if for some she hasn't finished laying by then is it okay to disturb her to get her checked out?

 

[Betta_Koi]

You may have to click on the first two

 

[Andee]

She actually looks very dehydrated, mildly undernuorished. She looks like she may be preparing a new batch of eggs soon already. From the pics I can't tell if she has MBD, which if she does it's likely mild. "Old signs of MBD" doesn't exist unless she's been treated with liquid calcium. The pedialyte actually wouldn't help much unless you know how to successfully medicate a chameleon without aspirating them, or if you have 5-10 minutes to drip it on her nose. Showers are usually best or if you have an auto mister set it for a rehydration cycle. Which for rescue chams I have that need rehydrating, I have 15-20 minute misting cycles twice a day with 5-10 minutes ones twice a day inbetween. A minimum of 4 misting cycles but a preferance of 5.

 

[kinyonga]

You said..."She'd also gravid and trying to dig her tunnel and lay as we speak"...and "if for some she hasn't finished laying by then is it okay to disturb her to get her checked out?"...if she's digging I wouldn't even be interrupting her to take her to the vets in the middle of it an definitely not removing her from the hole.

 

[Betta_Koi]

She laid! Last night it was extra cold so we wound up leaving her light on for the night (I'm working on getting a ceramic heater and other essentials) and she laid right under one of her live plants. I'm trying to get her to eat and drink but she's being a bit stubborn. When I say "Old signs" I mean she's got a dent in her back and a couple bulges in her tail but she's functioning and has not lost any strength so I'm wondering if she had an issue before and the breeder treated it then when they decided to not to breed her they stopped. They've been getting shadier over the past year. I know how to medicate other reptiles without aspirating them. What difference should I be aware of in medicating Chameleons?

 

[Andee]

Chameleons have their trachea opening under their tongue. I find medicating them to be easier than most reptiles. And those signs could just be birth defects or injuries.