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charlie2022

charlie2022

Member
Hi everyone! My name is Kristen and I'm currently a new owner of my Veiled Chameleon, Charlie. I've always wanted one, and one day I was at the pet store and Charlie immediately started interacting with me through the glass so I could not pass up the opportunity & I took him home with me. He is a 3 month old male. I've only had him for 3 days now. I did a lot of research before getting him, but I know there's so much more to learn about them. AKA why I'm here! Charlie and I are thrilled to be apart of this Cham family :) This is my first time with a Chameleon, but we have a family Leopard gecko named Spot.

Here is are a couple of pictures of Charlie hanging out:



IMG_1888.jpeg
IMG_1901.jpeg
IMG_1905.jpeg

If you have any general tips for beginners please let me know!
 
kinyonga said:
Welcome to the forum!

If you answer the questions in this thread with as much detail as possible we can check out your husbandry better...
https://www.chameleonforums.com/threads/how-to-ask-for-help.66/
Click to expand...
Chameleon Info:
  • Your Chameleon - Veiled Chameleon / Male / 3 months / 3 days.
  • Handling - I only held him before I got him at the pet store. I have not tried holding him since he's been in his new cage. (Was thinking maybe I let him adjust first? But I don't want to loose the opportunity of creating trust with him, so let me know when would be a good time to try to interact more one on one with him)
  • Feeding - I am feeding him about 7-9 crickets a day. He eats a little after his lights turn on in the morning 9am (normally he will drink his water off the leaves in the morning first) and then I feed him again in the evening around 5-6pm. I've fed him a cricket out of my hand once, but normally I will use tongs and feed him or I will place the crickets on leaves so he can hunt them. (Charlie definitely has a big appetite, so should I increase his food intake?)
  • Supplements - I am using Repashy Supergoods "Calcium Plus" (red lid). I normally coat them again once I see the powder has rubbed off.
  • Watering - I have a "Water Dripping Tree" that I have running 24/7. I mist 3 times a day manually with a spray bottle (Morning, Evening, Before Bed). I've seen Charlie drink from the water dripping tree in the mornings.
  • Fecal Description - I have not seen any fecal yet (is that normal? I've only had him 3 days) I might have to observe the bottom of his cage more throughly. I do not know if he has been tested for parasites. I'll have to call the pet store tomorrow and ask.
  • History - They did not really give me any previous information on Charlie.

Cage Info:
  • Cage Type - Screen / Large "Zoo Med Reptibreeze Open Air Screen Cage.
  • Lighting - 80W Solar Glo "All In One" (Exo Terra) / lights on at 9am - lights off at 9:30pm. (This is the only light I have for him. It seems to be working so far, but if you have any other suggestions PLEASE let me know :)
  • Temperature - 85 degrees for the baking spot. I have not checked overnight due to the thermometer falling (I have to reattach it in his cage more sturdily). I use "Thermometer Humidity Gauge" by ZooMed (Economy Dual Analog Terrarium).
  • Humidity - I believe 45-50% I have to recheck when I reattach his meter. I use a spray bottle and mist 3 times a day, and I have large "Golden Pothos" plant in his cage. I use "Thermometer Humidity Gauge" by ZooMed (Economy Dual Analog Terrarium). Question though: I also have a fogger I use at night for 30 minutes. Should I use my plastic shower curtain to maintain the fog to stay inside?
  • Plants - Yes, a large Golden Pothos.
  • Placement - By my closet on top of a wooden stand. Not near any fans or traffic areas. My window is by my bed and I have shutter curtains to block the sun. I open them during the day.(I do have a celling fan on low throughout the day though) Height wise: I'd say its in the middle. Not super low and not super high.
  • Location - Florida

Current Problem - The current problem you are concerned about.
My biggest concern is he won't warm up to me. I've been giving him his space and he's never really showed any signs of aggression when I'm doing stuff to his cage (other than his chin puffing a little). I just want the little guy to know he can trust me! So if you have any tips to gain their trust easily that would be great! Lastly, the fact that I have not seen any poop yet worries me a little bit, but I do not know if it takes them a couple of days to digest.

Thank you so much,
Kristen
 
A couple very important things, you need a long linear t5ho light fixture with either a reptisun 5.0 or a arcadia 6% bulb in it to meet his uvb requirements. his basking branch should be at least 9-10 inches below it. Also you should only feed him in the am and maybe early afternoon as much as he will eat. Don’t feed him at night because he needs time and his heat lamp to digest
 
Chameleon Info:
  • Your Chameleon - Veiled Chameleon / Male / 3 months / 3 days.
  • Handling - I only held him before I got him at the pet store. I have not tried holding him since he's been in his new cage. (Was thinking maybe I let him adjust first? But I don't want to loose the opportunity of creating trust with him, so let me know when would be a good time to try to interact more one on one with him) Perfect that you’re letting him get settled in. Here’s a great read on building trust. https://www.chameleonforums.com/blogs/building-trust-with-your-chameleon.2396/
  • Feeding - I am feeding him about 7-9 crickets a day. He eats a little after his lights turn on in the morning 9am (normally he will drink his water off the leaves in the morning first) and then I feed him again in the evening around 5-6pm. I've fed him a cricket out of my hand once, but normally I will use tongs and feed him or I will place the crickets on leaves so he can hunt them. (Charlie definitely has a big appetite, so should I increase his food intake?) At 3 months old, he can be cut back to feeding once in the AM. He should be getting about double what you’re giving him and adding some variety would be great. Additionally, you need to feed your feeders well so that they are more nutritious. Attaching feeder and gutloading graphics. *We aren’t able to have dubia roaches in Fla, but we can have discoid which are very similar.
  • Supplements - I am using Repashy Supergoods "Calcium Plus" (red lid). I normally coat them again once I see the powder has rubbed off. This is giving him too much multivitamins and D3. It’s more geared towards nocturnal/crepuscular animals like your leopard gecko. You’ll want to lightly dust at every feeding except one every other week with a phosphorus free calcium without D3. Then, that one feeding every other week you’ll want to use something like Reptivite with D3 or Repashy calcium plus LoD.
  • Watering - I have a "Water Dripping Tree" that I have running 24/7. I mist 3 times a day manually with a spray bottle (Morning, Evening, Before Bed). I've seen Charlie drink from the water dripping tree in the mornings. The majority of us here would say to get rid of the dripper tree as it’s basically a bacterial fountain. It’s much better to spray for at least 2 minutes right before lights go on and off. For mid day you could spray for about 1 minute or use a dripper for 15-20 minutes.
  • Fecal Description - I have not seen any fecal yet (is that normal? I've only had him 3 days) I might have to observe the bottom of his cage more throughly. I do not know if he has been tested for parasites. I'll have to call the pet store tomorrow and ask. If he came from a chain pet store, he has likely not been tested for parasites. It’s always a good idea to have a wellness visit with a vet at which you can also have a fecal done. We have a few good vets here in Fla who are experienced with chameleons. In Orlando there is Dr Bogoslavsky https://myavho.com/ and Dr Diaz https://www.orlandoexoticveterinarian.com/
  • History - They did not really give me any previous information on Charlie.

Cage Info:
  • Cage Type - Screen / Large "Zoo Med Reptibreeze Open Air Screen Cage. He will be outgrowing this quicker than you know. The minimum size for an adult is 2x2x4’ (XL ReptiBreeze) Just an idea - instead of replacing what you have, you could attach a second Lg ReptiBreeze to make it double wide for him. The extra width would make up for the depth and height.
  • Lighting - 80W Solar Glo "All In One" (Exo Terra) / lights on at 9am - lights off at 9:30pm. (This is the only light I have for him. It seems to be working so far, but if you have any other suggestions PLEASE let me know :) What you have is a mercury vapor light, which is not recommended unless you have a solarmeter 6.5 to monitor uvb levels. Let’s keep things simple. The standard is a linear T5HO fixture with either a ReptiSun 5.0 or Arcadia 6% uvb bulb. Usually when you buy the ReptiSun or Arcadia fixture you get your first bulb included. The fixture will need to be as long as your enclosures width. You’ll need to add a basking bulb/fixture. For that you can use an incandescent bulb and I’d say to start at about a 60w or 75w. As your little guy will probably walk upside down along the screen top, you’ll want to raise your lights about an inch or 2 above the screen. I use little wire baskets from Dollar Tree for this. Then basking area should be about 8-9” below your lights. No lights at night. No additional heat at night. Your 12 hour schedule is perfect.
  • Temperature - 85 degrees for the baking spot. I have not checked overnight due to the thermometer falling (I have to reattach it in his cage more sturdily). I use "Thermometer Humidity Gauge" by ZooMed (Economy Dual Analog Terrarium). 85 is just a tad warm for your youngster. It’s perfect for when he’s an adult, but babies should be around 80. The analog gauges are notoriously inaccurate. Better to use a digital one with a probe.
  • Humidity - I believe 45-50% I have to recheck when I reattach his meter. Same thing about the analog gauge…get digital. Ideal daytime humidity is between 30-50% so you’re good there.I use a spray bottle and mist 3 times a day, and I have large "Golden Pothos" plant in his cage. I use "Thermometer Humidity Gauge" by ZooMed (Economy Dual Analog Terrarium). Question though: I also have a fogger I use at night for 30 minutes. Should I use my plastic shower curtain to maintain the fog to stay inside? Yes, most need to place something on the sides and/or back to contain humidity and overspray of water. For fogging at night, you’ll only want to boost humidity if you can achieve a temp drop lower than around 68-70. If you can get a substantial temp drop, you can run the fogger longer at night for 100% humidity. I’m in central Fla and can’t get such a temp drop so I don’t fog.
  • Plants - Yes, a large Golden Pothos. Perfect plant for chameleons! You will want more though. All of the plastic/fake plants will need to be replaced with safe live ones. Veileds tend to nibble their plants, so fake ones can pose a risk for bowel obstruction. I hang my fake plants on the outside of the doors of my enclosures to give extra privacy.
  • Placement - By my closet on top of a wooden stand. Not near any fans or traffic areas. My window is by my bed and I have shutter curtains to block the sun. I open them during the day.(I do have a celling fan on low throughout the day though) Height wise: I'd say its in the middle. Not super low and not super high. Sounds good. Height = safety for chams. Just do make sure that during the day the heat coming thru the window isn’t going to overheat your little cutie.
  • Location - Florida What part?

Current Problem - The current problem you are concerned about.
My biggest concern is he won't warm up to me. I've been giving him his space and he's never really showed any signs of aggression when I'm doing stuff to his cage (other than his chin puffing a little). I just want the little guy to know he can trust me! So if you have any tips to gain their trust easily that would be great! Well, ummm….veileds have a reputation for not being the friendliest of chameleons. While there are some who have super sweet and friendly veileds, that tends to be the exception rather than the rule. It is important to work on building trust and get comfortable with handling. If you don’t have cats, dogs or other predators in the house, you could try setting up a small free range area next to a window which an hour or so on it would be a nice little ‘reward’ for allowing handling. Lastly, the fact that I have not seen any poop yet worries me a little bit, but I do not know if it takes them a couple of days to digest. The stress of a new home can cause a bit of constipation. If you can find some hornworms small enough for him, those will help lubricate things as well as give additional hydration.
A great place to learn more is https://chameleonacademy.com/ and then there is Neptune the Chameleon on YouTube.
Of course, the forum is awesome for asking questions, sharing pics and just celebrating the awesomeness of your chameleon. I’m very glad that you’re here. 🤗
95928668-2477-47A1-B233-42C6E6701922.jpeg
36949FDE-7F72-493B-BEF5-E41374A95E7E.jpeg
 
Lindasjackson said:
A couple very important things, you need a long linear t5ho light fixture with either a reptisun 5.0 or a arcadia 6% bulb in it to meet his uvb requirements. his basking branch should be at least 9-10 inches below it. Also you should only feed him in the am and maybe early afternoon as much as he will eat. Don’t feed him at night because he needs time and his heat lamp to digest
Click to expand...
thank you!
 
MissSkittles said:
Chameleon Info:
  • Your Chameleon - Veiled Chameleon / Male / 3 months / 3 days.
  • Handling - I only held him before I got him at the pet store. I have not tried holding him since he's been in his new cage. (Was thinking maybe I let him adjust first? But I don't want to loose the opportunity of creating trust with him, so let me know when would be a good time to try to interact more one on one with him) Perfect that you’re letting him get settled in. Here’s a great read on building trust. https://www.chameleonforums.com/blogs/building-trust-with-your-chameleon.2396/
  • Feeding - I am feeding him about 7-9 crickets a day. He eats a little after his lights turn on in the morning 9am (normally he will drink his water off the leaves in the morning first) and then I feed him again in the evening around 5-6pm. I've fed him a cricket out of my hand once, but normally I will use tongs and feed him or I will place the crickets on leaves so he can hunt them. (Charlie definitely has a big appetite, so should I increase his food intake?) At 3 months old, he can be cut back to feeding once in the AM. He should be getting about double what you’re giving him and adding some variety would be great. Additionally, you need to feed your feeders well so that they are more nutritious. Attaching feeder and gutloading graphics. *We aren’t able to have dubia roaches in Fla, but we can have discoid which are very similar.
  • Supplements - I am using Repashy Supergoods "Calcium Plus" (red lid). I normally coat them again once I see the powder has rubbed off. This is giving him too much multivitamins and D3. It’s more geared towards nocturnal/crepuscular animals like your leopard gecko. You’ll want to lightly dust at every feeding except one every other week with a phosphorus free calcium without D3. Then, that one feeding every other week you’ll want to use something like Reptivite with D3 or Repashy calcium plus LoD.
  • Watering - I have a "Water Dripping Tree" that I have running 24/7. I mist 3 times a day manually with a spray bottle (Morning, Evening, Before Bed). I've seen Charlie drink from the water dripping tree in the mornings. The majority of us here would say to get rid of the dripper tree as it’s basically a bacterial fountain. It’s much better to spray for at least 2 minutes right before lights go on and off. For mid day you could spray for about 1 minute or use a dripper for 15-20 minutes.
  • Fecal Description - I have not seen any fecal yet (is that normal? I've only had him 3 days) I might have to observe the bottom of his cage more throughly. I do not know if he has been tested for parasites. I'll have to call the pet store tomorrow and ask. If he came from a chain pet store, he has likely not been tested for parasites. It’s always a good idea to have a wellness visit with a vet at which you can also have a fecal done. We have a few good vets here in Fla who are experienced with chameleons. In Orlando there is Dr Bogoslavsky https://myavho.com/ and Dr Diaz https://www.orlandoexoticveterinarian.com/
  • History - They did not really give me any previous information on Charlie.

Cage Info:
  • Cage Type - Screen / Large "Zoo Med Reptibreeze Open Air Screen Cage. He will be outgrowing this quicker than you know. The minimum size for an adult is 2x2x4’ (XL ReptiBreeze) Just an idea - instead of replacing what you have, you could attach a second Lg ReptiBreeze to make it double wide for him. The extra width would make up for the depth and height.
  • Lighting - 80W Solar Glo "All In One" (Exo Terra) / lights on at 9am - lights off at 9:30pm. (This is the only light I have for him. It seems to be working so far, but if you have any other suggestions PLEASE let me know :) What you have is a mercury vapor light, which is not recommended unless you have a solarmeter 6.5 to monitor uvb levels. Let’s keep things simple. The standard is a linear T5HO fixture with either a ReptiSun 5.0 or Arcadia 6% uvb bulb. Usually when you buy the ReptiSun or Arcadia fixture you get your first bulb included. The fixture will need to be as long as your enclosures width. You’ll need to add a basking bulb/fixture. For that you can use an incandescent bulb and I’d say to start at about a 60w or 75w. As your little guy will probably walk upside down along the screen top, you’ll want to raise your lights about an inch or 2 above the screen. I use little wire baskets from Dollar Tree for this. Then basking area should be about 8-9” below your lights. No lights at night. No additional heat at night. Your 12 hour schedule is perfect.
  • Temperature - 85 degrees for the baking spot. I have not checked overnight due to the thermometer falling (I have to reattach it in his cage more sturdily). I use "Thermometer Humidity Gauge" by ZooMed (Economy Dual Analog Terrarium). 85 is just a tad warm for your youngster. It’s perfect for when he’s an adult, but babies should be around 80. The analog gauges are notoriously inaccurate. Better to use a digital one with a probe.
  • Humidity - I believe 45-50% I have to recheck when I reattach his meter. Same thing about the analog gauge…get digital. Ideal daytime humidity is between 30-50% so you’re good there.I use a spray bottle and mist 3 times a day, and I have large "Golden Pothos" plant in his cage. I use "Thermometer Humidity Gauge" by ZooMed (Economy Dual Analog Terrarium). Question though: I also have a fogger I use at night for 30 minutes. Should I use my plastic shower curtain to maintain the fog to stay inside? Yes, most need to place something on the sides and/or back to contain humidity and overspray of water. For fogging at night, you’ll only want to boost humidity if you can achieve a temp drop lower than around 68-70. If you can get a substantial temp drop, you can run the fogger longer at night for 100% humidity. I’m in central Fla and can’t get such a temp drop so I don’t fog.
  • Plants - Yes, a large Golden Pothos. Perfect plant for chameleons! You will want more though. All of the plastic/fake plants will need to be replaced with safe live ones. Veileds tend to nibble their plants, so fake ones can pose a risk for bowel obstruction. I hang my fake plants on the outside of the doors of my enclosures to give extra privacy.
  • Placement - By my closet on top of a wooden stand. Not near any fans or traffic areas. My window is by my bed and I have shutter curtains to block the sun. I open them during the day.(I do have a celling fan on low throughout the day though) Height wise: I'd say its in the middle. Not super low and not super high. Sounds good. Height = safety for chams. Just do make sure that during the day the heat coming thru the window isn’t going to overheat your little cutie.
  • Location - Florida What part?

Current Problem - The current problem you are concerned about.
My biggest concern is he won't warm up to me. I've been giving him his space and he's never really showed any signs of aggression when I'm doing stuff to his cage (other than his chin puffing a little). I just want the little guy to know he can trust me! So if you have any tips to gain their trust easily that would be great! Well, ummm….veileds have a reputation for not being the friendliest of chameleons. While there are some who have super sweet and friendly veileds, that tends to be the exception rather than the rule. It is important to work on building trust and get comfortable with handling. If you don’t have cats, dogs or other predators in the house, you could try setting up a small free range area next to a window which an hour or so on it would be a nice little ‘reward’ for allowing handling. Lastly, the fact that I have not seen any poop yet worries me a little bit, but I do not know if it takes them a couple of days to digest. The stress of a new home can cause a bit of constipation. If you can find some hornworms small enough for him, those will help lubricate things as well as give additional hydration.
A great place to learn more is https://chameleonacademy.com/ and then there is Neptune the Chameleon on YouTube.
Of course, the forum is awesome for asking questions, sharing pics and just celebrating the awesomeness of your chameleon. I’m very glad that you’re here. 🤗
View attachment 328189View attachment 328190
Click to expand...
That helped me SO much! Thank you! With it being the weekend I'll be making adjustments :) And Central Florida as well! I study at UCF Go Knights :)
 
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