New Veiled Chameleon

[Ryan617]

So I got a new Veiled Chameleon and I wanted to get anyone's input at my setup etc. I'm new to owning a chameleon so I'm a bit nervous and I'm trying to get things right.

My Chameleon is about 4"

Lighting
I'm using a Reptile UVB bulb 100 from Exo Terra for 12 hours a day and a heat lamp whenever I turn my ac on because my room gets really cold. The tank stays at 70 degrees and humidity is at 75

Terrarium
A tall Exo Terra 12x12x18 glass terrarium. I have coconut fiber at the bottom of the tank and hydro balls to absorb the water from the dripper. I found a branch in my backyard in there that I cleaned with some bleach and water that I let dry for a couple weeks. Also have a couple of Exo terra plants for him to climb and hide in

Food
Regular crickets from petsmart and sometimes coated with Repticalcium with D3 that free roam the tank, and superworms that sit in a bowl at the bottom of the tank

Hydration
I have a little dripper at the top of the tank and I mist the tank around 3 times a day

Questions:
-I've only seen my Veiled eat once and whenever he tries to get a cricket he misses and it runs off, this has happened a couple of times and I'm worried if he doesn't eat properly.
-What do I put in tap water to get rid of the bad contents in it to make it safe for my chameleon?

 

[csmolins89]

I will give you a few pointers from what I've gained since having my chameleon

1. Get a different cage , glass is horrible and the chameleon needs to have good ventilation and glass cannot provide that. Glass may work for the time being but look into getting a 24"x24"x48" screened cage.

2. You need to be dusting the feeders with calcium WITHOUT D3 daily and Limit the calcium with D3 to twice a month.

3. Get rid of all substrate at the bottom of the cage all you need is either nothing or paper towels . Substrate breeds bacteria and the chameleon can actually get the substrate stuck on it's tongue and get impacted which can eventually lead to death.

4. 70 is way too low for a chameleon there needs to be a basking spot for the chameleon at least 85 degrees and will need to be warmer when the chameleon gets older. The chameleon regulates it's metabolism through heat and if it's not warm enough it won't digest food properly.

5. Don't use tap water. Get distilled water from the grocery store. It has nothing in it and will be the purest thing you can get. A gallon costs less than a dollar at the grocery store.

6. If you don't already , get all of your lights on a timer. This will make everything easier on you and will keep your Cham happier in the long run.

7. If you haven't thought about it yet think about investing in an automated mister. Makes life way easier and you won't have to worry about hand spraying the tank.

I know it's a lot to take in all at once and you will probably have to get a whole different setup but if you want your Cham to be happy and healthy you'll have to change some things up

 

[Ryan617]

Okay so screen cage it is. But wont 24x24x48 be to big for the chameleon? I mean i know its gonna grow and such and i don't wanna buy multiple cages but will the chameleon have trouble finding food if the cage is really big?

I had planned to buy the Monsoon misting system in the future when i can afford it.

Any recommended brands of calcium to use?

I took note of everything, thank you for the help

 

[csmolins89]

You can get a feeder cup for the crickets for the the time being until the chameleon can hunt properly. Stay away from the monsoon systems ...yes they are the most inexpensive option , but you'll have troubles in the long run. I had one go out on me in less than 4 months. Spend the extra 20 bucks and get the aquazamp or mist king system. I use repti calcium without d3 I had to buy it online because no pet store In my area carries it for some reason.

 

[Ryan617]

Besides me not having a screen terrarium which I'm gonna get soon, how does it look?

 

[torreyakatoe]

Looks good. Might be be a bit hot in one area with 100 watt. Also get a humidity gauge and thermometer! Super helpful. I would go with a bigger setup though, your Veiled is going to grow up sometime. Plant arrangement may need a bit more cover too.

 

[Ryan617]

Okay sounds good, I'm just looking for a spot to put a screen terrarium where he'd be happy. Thanks for the help guys

 

[ChiefRedman]

Okay sounds good, I'm just looking for a spot to put a screen terrarium where he'd be happy. Thanks for the help guys

I would invest in a digital thermometer, you can get them cheap online. The dial type thermometer do a horrible job reading temps in a basking spot. In a tank you have a risk of overheating and thats no bueno. Good thing you are getting a cage

Looks like you have sand in the bottom? If so I would get rid of it because it can cause digestion problems.

 

[chamclaris]

I would recommend getting a temp gun off Amazon or Ebay. If you do some searching you can will find one for around 20$. I bought several digital thermometers and found them unreliable and frustrating. Love your cham, very cute

 

[kinyonga]

Welcome to the world of chameleons!

Re lighting...I have for many many years used the Repti-sun 5.0 long linear tube as a source of UVB. I use a regular household incandescent light bulb as a basking light. The wattage is determined by the temperature you need to provide in the basking area. Make sure the bulb isn't close enough or hot enough to burn the chameleon. Low 80 to mid 80's F should be good for your chameleon.

Since you have airconditioning your glass cage should be fine but it would be better to be bigger as the chameleon grows. Where do you live though? The chameleon may not be eating because it's too cold. Appropriate temperatures are important for good digestion.

In many areas tap water is fine. Do you know what's added to your water by the town?

Regarding supplements I use Rep-call phosphorous - free calcium powder at most feedings to help make up for the poor ratio of calcium to phosphorous found in most feeder insects. I dust twice a month with a phosphorous - free calcium D3 powder to ensure the chameleon gets some D3 without overdosing it and leaving the chameleon to produce the rest of the D3 from its exposure to the UVB. I dust twice a month with a vitamin powder that contains a beta carotene (prOformed) source of vitamin A. PrOformed sources of vitamin A cannot build up in the system. If the chameleon shows signs of needing vitamin A you can then give it a little bit of prEformed but be careful because prEformed can build up. Phosphorous, calcium, vitamin A. And vitamin D3 are all important players in bone health and other systems and need to be in balance.

I recommend no substrate...it can lead to impaction.

Hope his helps.

 

[Ryan617]

I just ordered Repticalcium without D3 online and it should be in within a few days. No stores around my area sell it apparently.

Also I noticed my Chameleon doesn't really eat meal worms, I've seen him eat only one, but he loves crickets. Is it possible for a chameleon to eat to much? Because I notice when he eats crickets he eats a lot at a time, that may be normal but just thought I'd ask.

Should I feed my chameleon any greens? If so what? Also what should I use to gut load my crickets?

Also since I am using a real branch that i cleaned off in my tank if water gets into it will is produce any bacteria?

 

[Lizardguy1]

I echo the comments regarding a screen cage, no substrate, lighting, and feeding. Regarding hydration I recommend misting only once a day- 3 times a day is too much. As an adult I recommend 1 long misting/watering every other day, with the cage drying out after watering.

Nutrition- I recommend experimenting with a larger variety of insects- dubia roaches, horned worms, wax worms, etc. also use powdered supplements sparingly, only once or twice a week. I recommend gut loading feeder insects on carrots and leafy greens.

Finally I recommend placing him outside (in a screen cage) for natural sunlight as much as the weather in your area and your schedule permits-

 

[crazychamzoo]

Regarding hydration I recommend misting only once a day- 3 times a day is too much. As an adult I recommend 1 long misting/watering every other day, with the cage drying out after watering.-

I have to say i agree with most of the comments and suggestions but I completely disagree with misting once ever other day even as an adult, even though a veiled chameleon can handle less than perfect conditions, they do thrive in a humidity level around 60-70%. Misting every other day only once is not going to provide to this level of humidity, you would be lucky to achieve 40% in a normal house at that rate. The care sheet on this website for the veiled chameleon even calls for misting several sessions a day. You are doing fine with your misting at 3 times a day, not only will this give your chameleon a better humidity level but will give the more frequent opportunities for drinking as he sees fit. The goal of proper husbandry is to provide optimum living conditions for your chameleon, sounds like your on the right track, good luck.

 

[crazychamzoo]

I just ordered Repticalcium without D3 online and it should be in within a few days. No stores around my area sell it apparently.

Also I noticed my Chameleon doesn't really eat meal worms, I've seen him eat only one, but he loves crickets. Is it possible for a chameleon to eat to much? Because I notice when he eats crickets he eats a lot at a time, that may be normal but just thought I'd ask.

Should I feed my chameleon any greens? If so what? Also what should I use to gut load my crickets?

Also since I am using a real branch that i cleaned off in my tank if water gets into it will is produce any bacteria?

Mealworms are fairly hard to digest, your ok with crickets as the main staple, but your Cham would more than likely enjoy a mix with some silkworms, butter worms, or Phoenix worms, all great choices, possible some smaller horn worms. Oh, and juveniles with eat right around 10-12 appropriately sized crickets a day, they will typically eat there fill, if you have many leftovers, thats a good sign your feeding to much and you can cut back a little. No need to feed greens, but some Veiled's (most of ours) with munch on the plants in the enclosure, ours love hibiscus leaves. And one of your early questions about the 24x24x48 being to big, I don't buy that one bit, young male Chams can easily patrol a territory that sized with no problems, just keep in mind you will have to adjust all the parameters to the proper levels with your temperature levels, humidity etc.. And it's always a good idea to fill around 75% of the enclosure space with foliage.

 

[junglefries]

Looks like you got input already from everyone. Didn't even have to read all the posts, as most of the users who posted will have set you straight. Keep your chin up. You will make some mistakes. You will have that freak out we all had, that turns out to be nothing. These things are and will happen. Just keep reading and asking. That is all anyone or your cham can ask of you. Enjoy your new friend, now that your 'schooling' is almost over.

 

[AACblackout]

Terrariums are fine some people hate them others love them. I use them until my cham is 5 months old. With ac and a celing fan the ventilation is just fine. Now glass tanks for fish are not. 70 is way to cool and always dust without d3 every feeding. Listen to everyone on here they are great and full of knowledge.

 

[Ryan617]

So everything is going good but I noticed that my cham has a dark stripe along its side, what does that mean? He didn't have it all day, just recently.