New with chameleons - need an experienced opinion

Duesxx

New Member
B2C57DFE-9AE3-4ECB-854B-E9C9850260E0.jpeg

Had this fella for about a week, bought from a local breeder. He’s eating well, but his right eye-sometimes he keeps it closed, or at a squint like this. It started yesterday and hasn’t changed since. I’m leaning to a vitamin A possibility and I bought some Retinyl Palmitate powder to dust with but would sure appreciate a more experienced opinion.

Cage details are:
81 at top basking area
RH is reading 70%
Mistking auto misting
Arcadia 6% t5
65wtt basking bulb
2x Arcadia jungle dawns
Here is a pic of the setup
image.jpg

Any opinions or guidance is much appreciated.
 
if the bottom moss is real, i guess you can keep it. If you feed crickets, and they fall in love, they will have the honeymoon in said moss, and you will be greeted with a see of pin heads...
 
Welcome to the forum!

What supplements do you use specifically. I'm particularly interested in calcium, D3, orEformed vitamin A and phosphorous in each one.

How do you feed/gutload the insects?
 
if the bottom moss is real, i guess you can keep it. If you feed crickets, and they fall in love, they will have the honeymoon in said moss, and you will be greeted with a see of pin heads...
I will definitely keep that in mind! I try to feed one as he eats then another so I don’t loose feeders in the cage. And I grow orchids so I always have moss around, my plans are to change it out every so often.
Welcome to the forum!

What supplements do you use specifically. I'm particularly interested in calcium, D3, orEformed vitamin A and phosphorous in each one.

How do you feed/gutload the insects?
Thank you! Supplements are Repashy calcium+, flukers repta calcium with d3 & phosphorus free, bee pollen and like I said I just ordered the Vitamin a powder but have not started supplementing it. I am feeding him crickets, Dubia and horn worms with a carrot to the feeders everyday atm. Need to run to the grocery for some more variety on the food for feeders.
 
I’ll just add a couple thoughts here. Before making any drastic changes to your supps—especially if you’re considering a strong vit A product—try a more moderate regime that incorporates low but consistent levels of the fat soluble vitamins such as A and D. And Work at really dialing in your uvb, insect nutrition and hydration.

A vet visit is almost always a good idea—if only to establish a working relationship with your vet. Just keep in mind that the symptoms of over and under supplementation—especially with vitamin A—can be very similar. Also, please note that prior to and during a shed, or when hydration and humidity have recently changed, chameleons can “work” their eyes—inflating, deflating, etc—in response. At least this has been by observation.

In short, unless there is some pressing medical emergency (veterinary confirmed), small incremental changes are often better than big changes quickly. Such changes will also make it easier to identify thresholds, and document changes.
 
Forgot to ask how often for each.
So I’m feeding 5 bugs every other day, I dust with pollen and repashy each time, and will use the d3 once every couple weeks.
Beautiful plant setup
Thank you! I’m waiting on a ti plant to arrive and it will be done.
I’ll just add a couple thoughts here. Before making any drastic changes to your supps—especially if you’re considering a strong vit A product—try a more moderate regime that incorporates low but consistent levels of the fat soluble vitamins such as A and D. And Work at really dialing in your uvb, insect nutrition and hydration.

A vet visit is almost always a good idea—if only to establish a working relationship with your vet. Just keep in mind that the symptoms of over and under supplementation—especially with vitamin A—can be very similar. Also, please note that prior to and during a shed, or when hydration and humidity have recently changed, chameleons can “work” their eyes—inflating, deflating, etc—in response. At least this has been by observation.

In short, unless there is some pressing medical emergency (veterinary confirmed), small incremental changes are often better than big changes quickly. Such changes will also make it easier to identify thresholds, and document changes.
That all makes sense! I have reef tanks, so I definitely understand the incremental formula. This is just a new animal for me, so I want to do the best I can for him.
 
Anyone know a good Veiled Chameleon breeder? I’m new to the forums and O was also wondering if it was safe to have a chameleon shipped to you instead of getting it in person?
 
Anyone know a good Veiled Chameleon breeder? I’m new to the forums and O was also wondering if it was safe to have a chameleon shipped to you instead of getting it in person?
If you post your own thread it is better. Look into Framschams for Veileds and yes it is safe to have them shipped but temps need to be lower outside. Shipping in hot weather has its dangers. They are shipped a specific way and shipped over night. You would then pick it up from a local fed ex hub rather than delivery of any type.
 
So I think I have determined that he is closing the eye based on my misting or lack thereof. I’m having a little trouble dialing in the schedule -but is this a typical response for a panther? I have dart frogs, but let’s be honest, their misting needs are negligible so I’ve never had to work that hard on it. This is a new experience for me.
 
So I think I have determined that he is closing the eye based on my misting or lack thereof. I’m having a little trouble dialing in the schedule -but is this a typical response for a panther? I have dart frogs, but let’s be honest, their misting needs are negligible so I’ve never had to work that hard on it. This is a new experience for me.
That is very possible as well. I find that panthers like mistings quite a bit. My Veiled loves them.

The only other thing I was looking at is you said your running 2 jungle dawns and the 6% UVB T5. What are your distances with all of these to the branches below? Jungle dawns are very bright so you do not want the cham right on them. With the UVB and what you are using you need a 8-9 inch distance from the bottom of the fixture to the branches below... Your branches seem to sit a bit high. Also adding in more vines or whatever you used on that top basking area would be helpful for him to move around and find where he wants to be. But you still need that 8-9 inch distance with the UVB.
 
If you post your own thread it is better. Look into Framschams for Veileds and yes it is safe to have them shipped but temps need to be lower outside. Shipping in hot weather has its dangers. They are shipped a specific way and shipped over night. You would then pick it up from a local fed ex hub rather than delivery of any type.
Ok thanks
 
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