Open to Constructive Criticism

D

dinothechameleon

Member
Hello everyone! I hope you are all having an amazing day and I am so happy to be a part of this beautiful community! I recently got a chameleon 4 days ago and I wanted to post everything about his husbandry to ensure that I am doing everything correctly. I will post details of my husbandry and chameleon below.

Age: 3 months old
Sex: Male panther chameleon
Basking temperature: 80 degrees Fahrenheit
Humidity levels: 45 (I ordered plastic shower curtains so I can put it on the sides of his enclosure to increase humidity levels)
Feeders: Dubia roaches, waxworms, hornworms, and BSFL
Supplements: Calcium without D3 (I use this 6 days a week), calcium with D3, I use this every other week for one day, and a multivitamin( I use this every other week for one day)
UVB light: Linear T5 HO 5.0
Frequency and amount of food: Once a day, 10-15 feeders (at least planning to since he won't eat yet)
Cage size: 2 feet x 2 feet x 4 feet

My main concern is that my chameleon is not eating. I am aware this is normal when you first receive a chameleon, but what is the norm of when you first get your chameleon of it not eating. 2-3 days? 4-5? I see him drinking water which I am quite happy about, but I cannot get him to eat. I free ranged a hornworm him and he very obviously could see it, but he didn't eat it. I left him alone for a couple of hours because I know they are shy eaters but when I came back he still didn't eat it. I put a couple of dubias and waxworms in a bowl hanging in his enclosure and he did not eat it. (I will put photos below so you can better understand what I mean). I am concerned that he does not know his food is in his bowl. I mean, how is he automatically supposed to know that his food will be in his bowl? What if he is hungry but he just isn't looking in the bowls direction so he is just starving? Please give me advice and suggestions. Here are pictures of his enclosure and feeders. (I did not include a picture of his waxworms because they are exactly one half of the size of the hornworm. Also, I just put the hornworm in his bowl with no supplement just so you guys could see the size. In the picture of his enclosure you can see the bowl on the top left of his cage.)

IMG_8137.jpg
Screen Shot 2021-01-24 at 11.19.44 AM.png
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Please give me suggestions to better improve my husbandry and help me to get him to eat! Thank you!!
 
Welcome! My feedback and any questions will be in red. I’ll also post helpful links and care images at the end.

Hello everyone! I hope you are all having an amazing day and I am so happy to be a part of this beautiful community! I recently got a chameleon 4 days ago and I wanted to post everything about his husbandry to ensure that I am doing everything correctly. I will post details of my husbandry and chameleon below.

Age: 3 months old
Sex: Male panther chameleon
Basking temperature: 80 degrees Fahrenheit What type of basking bulb do you use? Do you use any other lights besides his basking and UVB bulbs? Or anything at night? How do you measure his temps? What are the ambient and nighttime temps? What is the schedule for his lights?
Humidity levels: 45 (I ordered plastic shower curtains so I can put it on the sides of his enclosure to increase humidity levels) How do you measure it? What are his nighttime levels?
Feeders: Dubia roaches, waxworms, hornworms, and BSFL What do you gutload with, and how do you do it? There’s feeder and gutload charts below. Variety for both is best!
Supplements: Calcium without D3 (I use this 6 days a week), calcium with D3, I use this every other week for one day, and a multivitamin( I use this every other week for one day) Does your multivitamin contain D3? Which type of Vitamin A is in it (preformed- retinol or proformed- beta carotene)?
UVB light: Linear T5 HO 5.0 How far away is his basking branch from the UVB bulb?
Frequency and amount of food: Once a day, 10-15 feeders (at least planning to since he won't eat yet) At that age, give him as much as he’ll eat.
Cage size: 2 feet x 2 feet x 4 feet

He might not be eating from his bowl because he’s not used to it, try placing the roaches on a branch. I’d also switch out his feeding bowl for one with a non-reflective surface, as they don’t like looking at other chameleons (even if it’s a reflection of himself). Make sure all feeders are appropriately sized, too. Could you fill out the rest of these categories as well, please?
  • Handling - How often do you handle your chameleon?
  • Watering - What kind of watering technique do you use? How often and how long to you mist? Do you see your chameleon drinking?
  • Fecal Description - Briefly note colors and consistency from recent droppings. Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites?
  • History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you.
  • Plants - Are you using live plants? If so, what kind?
  • Placement - Where is your cage located? Is it near any fans, air vents, or high traffic areas? At what height is the top of the cage relative to your room floor?
  • Location - Where are you geographically located?

My main concern is that my chameleon is not eating. I am aware this is normal when you first receive a chameleon, but what is the norm of when you first get your chameleon of it not eating. 2-3 days? 4-5? I see him drinking water which I am quite happy about, but I cannot get him to eat. I free ranged a hornworm him and he very obviously could see it, but he didn't eat it. I left him alone for a couple of hours because I know they are shy eaters but when I came back he still didn't eat it. I put a couple of dubias and waxworms in a bowl hanging in his enclosure and he did not eat it. (I will put photos below so you can better understand what I mean). I am concerned that he does not know his food is in his bowl. I mean, how is he automatically supposed to know that his food will be in his bowl? What if he is hungry but he just isn't looking in the bowls direction so he is just starving? Please give me advice and suggestions. Here are pictures of his enclosure and feeders. (I did not include a picture of his waxworms because they are exactly one half of the size of the hornworm. Also, I just put the hornworm in his bowl with no supplement just so you guys could see the size. In the picture of his enclosure you can see the bowl on the top left of his cage.)

Here’s informative and helpful links and care images:
https://www.chameleonforums.com/care/external-resources/
https://chameleonacademy.com/chameleon-husbandry-program-getting-started-with-chameleons/
https://chameleonacademy.com/panther-chameleon-care/
https://chameleonacademy.com/plants/
https://www.madcham.de/en/
http://www.muchadoaboutchameleons.com/
https://flchams.com/chameleon-safe-plant-list/
 

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My first critique is that I would add more branches everywhere. These branches should be smaller branches that he can easily grip and maneuver around on. The branches you have at the moment are fine to keep in his cage (as he will still utilize them), but he will definitely enjoy smaller branches.

Also, there are you measuring the basking spot temperature? Are you taking the temp at a branch location or where he sits on the top of the plant? What I would do would be to add more basking branch locations right around the same height as the part of the plant he likes to sit on in the picture. This way more cage volume is utilized making an even happier chameleon. Additionally, this will give him more area to bask or cool off (it is important to have branches that he can move out of the basking spot while still being up high.

Humidity levels: 45 (I ordered plastic shower curtains so I can put it on the sides of his enclosure to increase humidity levels)
Click to expand...
Is 45% humidity the daytime level or nighttime level? Plus, what are you using to measure humidity?

Feeders: Dubia roaches, waxworms, hornworms, and BSFL
Click to expand...
Your feeder choices are great! No comments or concerns here.

My main concern is that my chameleon is not eating. I am aware this is normal when you first receive a chameleon, but what is the norm of when you first get your chameleon of it not eating. 2-3 days? 4-5? I see him drinking water which I am quite happy about, but I cannot get him to eat. I free ranged a hornworm him and he very obviously could see it, but he didn't eat it. I left him alone for a couple of hours because I know they are shy eaters but when I came back he still didn't eat it. I put a couple of dubias and waxworms in a bowl hanging in his enclosure and he did not eat it. (I will put photos below so you can better understand what I mean). I am concerned that he does not know his food is in his bowl. I mean, how is he automatically supposed to know that his food will be in his bowl? What if he is hungry but he just isn't looking in the bowls direction so he is just starving? Please give me advice and suggestions. Here are pictures of his enclosure and feeders. (I did not include a picture of his waxworms because they are exactly one half of the size of the hornworm. Also, I just put the hornworm in his bowl with no supplement just so you guys could see the size. In the picture of his enclosure you can see the bowl on the top left of his cage.)
Click to expand...
I wouldn't be worried about him not eating yet. I'd give it about a week. He will come around. As long as he can see the feeders and gets time alone, he will begin to eat. Whether the feeders are in a bowl, a spoon, a hot air balloon, your chameleon will take down the feeders when he is ready. If he can see the feeders, I wouldn't worry. Come back if he hasn't eaten anything in a week.

Though one thing to note that is actually important is the size of the feeder. Feeders should not exceed the distance between their eyes. When it comes to feeders, slightly smaller feeders are better than slightly larger feeders.

To answer the question you just asked about his dark colors: when you add the branches up top under the basking light, and you are accurately measuring the temps under it (80F), he should be able to warm up on his own. At the moment, I fear that he just wants to be up high on the plant thinking he will warm up but that probably isn't where the basking spot is. You want the basking spot to be one of the highest areas in the cage where he can warm up. If part of the cage is cooler but way up high, he may be drawn to it but not getting the heat he needs.
 
ERKleRose said:
Here’s a link to a thread just created by @Thesolecontender for a DIY shooting gallery. Bill Strand also has a great link for creating your own feeder run
https://www.chameleonforums.com/threads/5-minute-diy-shooting-gallery.180767/
https://dragonstrand.com/constructing-a-chameleon-feeder-run/
Click to expand...
I will add instructions to my post in a second but basically just cut a hole in a plastic food container and then put 1/4 water line around cut edges so cham can't scratch himself up. Then twist tie to cage screen. I will prob add a layer of softer mesh screen or something similar along back so cham isn't blasting his tongue against screen
 
ERKleRose said:
Welcome! My feedback and any questions will be in red. I’ll also post helpful links and care images at the end.

Hello everyone! I hope you are all having an amazing day and I am so happy to be a part of this beautiful community! I recently got a chameleon 4 days ago and I wanted to post everything about his husbandry to ensure that I am doing everything correctly. I will post details of my husbandry and chameleon below.

Age: 3 months old
Sex: Male panther chameleon
Basking temperature: 80 degrees Fahrenheit What type of basking bulb do you use? Do you use any other lights besides his basking and UVB bulbs? Or anything at night? How do you measure his temps? What are the ambient and nighttime temps? What is the schedule for his lights?
Humidity levels: 45 (I ordered plastic shower curtains so I can put it on the sides of his enclosure to increase humidity levels) How do you measure it? What are his nighttime levels?
Feeders: Dubia roaches, waxworms, hornworms, and BSFL What do you gutload with, and how do you do it? There’s feeder and gutload charts below. Variety for both is best!
Supplements: Calcium without D3 (I use this 6 days a week), calcium with D3, I use this every other week for one day, and a multivitamin( I use this every other week for one day) Does your multivitamin contain D3? Which type of Vitamin A is in it (preformed- retinol or proformed- beta carotene)?
UVB light: Linear T5 HO 5.0 How far away is his basking branch from the UVB bulb?
Frequency and amount of food: Once a day, 10-15 feeders (at least planning to since he won't eat yet) At that age, give him as much as he’ll eat.
Cage size: 2 feet x 2 feet x 4 feet

He might not be eating from his bowl because he’s not used to it, try placing the roaches on a branch. I’d also switch out his feeding bowl for one with a non-reflective surface, as they don’t like looking at other chameleons (even if it’s a reflection of himself). Make sure all feeders are appropriately sized, too. Could you fill out the rest of these categories as well, please?
  • Handling - How often do you handle your chameleon?
  • Watering - What kind of watering technique do you use? How often and how long to you mist? Do you see your chameleon drinking?
  • Fecal Description - Briefly note colors and consistency from recent droppings. Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites?
  • History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you.
  • Plants - Are you using live plants? If so, what kind?
  • Placement - Where is your cage located? Is it near any fans, air vents, or high traffic areas? At what height is the top of the cage relative to your room floor?
  • Location - Where are you geographically located?

My main concern is that my chameleon is not eating. I am aware this is normal when you first receive a chameleon, but what is the norm of when you first get your chameleon of it not eating. 2-3 days? 4-5? I see him drinking water which I am quite happy about, but I cannot get him to eat. I free ranged a hornworm him and he very obviously could see it, but he didn't eat it. I left him alone for a couple of hours because I know they are shy eaters but when I came back he still didn't eat it. I put a couple of dubias and waxworms in a bowl hanging in his enclosure and he did not eat it. (I will put photos below so you can better understand what I mean). I am concerned that he does not know his food is in his bowl. I mean, how is he automatically supposed to know that his food will be in his bowl? What if he is hungry but he just isn't looking in the bowls direction so he is just starving? Please give me advice and suggestions. Here are pictures of his enclosure and feeders. (I did not include a picture of his waxworms because they are exactly one half of the size of the hornworm. Also, I just put the hornworm in his bowl with no supplement just so you guys could see the size. In the picture of his enclosure you can see the bowl on the top left of his cage.)

Here’s informative and helpful links and care images:
https://www.chameleonforums.com/care/external-resources/
https://chameleonacademy.com/chameleon-husbandry-program-getting-started-with-chameleons/
https://chameleonacademy.com/panther-chameleon-care/
https://chameleonacademy.com/plants/
https://www.madcham.de/en/
http://www.muchadoaboutchameleons.com/
https://flchams.com/chameleon-safe-plant-list/
Click to expand...
I use a 75 watt bulb, and I measure it with a temperature gun. Besides the UVB and heat bulb, I use a light for the plants to grow. His lights are on and off for 12 hours, and his ambient temp during the day is around 75 degrees. During night, his ambient temp is about 65 degrees. I measure the humidity in his enclosure with a hygrometer, during the day it is around 45 and during the night it is the same. I gutload the feeders with carrots, sweet potato, apples, and collard greens. My multivitamin does not have D3, I'm not sure of which type of Vitamin A it contains as it does not mention it, but neptunethechameleon recommended it to me and I trust her. His basking branch is 10 inches away from the UVB bulb. I bought a new feeding bowl that has a non-reflective surface. Since I just got him 4 days ago I do not handle him, I plan on not handling him for at least 2 weeks (or whatever his pace is). I use a mistking mister which goes off 3 times a day for 2 minutes. I have never gotten a fecal from him but his poops are dark brown and has a bit of what looks like slime around it. He has never been tested for parasites because he was $300 so I assume his breeder took care of him well. I bought him from RobersonReptiles and he was shipped to me overnight from Florida. I am using all live plants- A money Tree, a Hawaiian Ti Plant, a Pothos plant, an Umbrella Tree, a Calathea Plant, a Wandering Jew, a Weeping Fig, a Spider plant, and a Prayer plant. For the placement, my cage is located in my room, very low traffic and quiet. It is not near any fans or air vents. The very top of my cage stands at about 4'10 feet tall. I live in California.
 
dinothechameleon said:
I use a 75 watt bulb, and I measure it with a temperature gun. Besides the UVB and heat bulb, I use a light for the plants to grow. His lights are on and off for 12 hours, and his ambient temp during the day is around 75 degrees. During night, his ambient temp is about 65 degrees. I measure the humidity in his enclosure with a hygrometer, during the day it is around 45 and during the night it is the same. I gutload the feeders with carrots, sweet potato, apples, and collard greens. My multivitamin does not have D3, I'm not sure of which type of Vitamin A it contains as it does not mention it, but neptunethechameleon recommended it to me and I trust her. His basking branch is 10 inches away from the UVB bulb. I bought a new feeding bowl that has a non-reflective surface. Since I just got him 4 days ago I do not handle him, I plan on not handling him for at least 2 weeks (or whatever his pace is). I use a mistking mister which goes off 3 times a day for 2 minutes. I have never gotten a fecal from him but his poops are dark brown and has a bit of what looks like slime around it. He has never been tested for parasites because he was $300 so I assume his breeder took care of him well. I bought him from RobersonReptiles and he was shipped to me overnight from Florida. I am using all live plants- A money Tree, a Hawaiian Ti Plant, a Pothos plant, an Umbrella Tree, a Calathea Plant, a Wandering Jew, a Weeping Fig, a Spider plant, and a Prayer plant. For the placement, my cage is located in my room, very low traffic and quiet. It is not near any fans or air vents. The very top of my cage stands at about 4'10 feet tall. I live in California.
Click to expand...
Is the basking bulb incandescent, reptile, halogen, colored, etc? His humidity should be 50-60/70% during the day and can go up to 100% at night (using a fogger/cool mist or ultrasonic humidifier at night- just make sure to properly clean it and its tubes and and anything else used thoroughly and often; make sure to put the output tube near/at the top of his cage so the fog rolls down). Covering the back and two sides of his cage will help hold humidity in, as well as giving him more privacy. You can use PVC board, an opaque shower curtain, etc. for it. Adding more live plants will help raise and stabilize humidity levels, too. Could you post a photo of your multivitamin? His basking branch could be moved up an inch or two for more UVB as well, if you don’t have a Solarmeter 6.5 to test the UVI levels (definitely get one of you can afford it!). I would get him tested for parasites, as it’s recommended for any chameleon. Make sure to drop 2-3+ more fresh fecal samples afterwards so the vet can make sure no parasites were missed in the first one. If the vet could do x-rays and bloodwork, that’d be amazing, too! Just make sure he/she is an experienced chameleon vet! Could you raise up the cage somehow (this could be another reason for why he’s so dark)? Chameleons feel safer up high. The Chameleon Academy has great info that is accurate and the most up-to-date, so definitely read through all of their modules and listen to as many podcasts as possible!
 
The bulb is incandescent, and not colored, just white. I do have a solarmeter, but I don't quite understand what the numbers mean. It says that his basking branch is about 3.0 but what does that represent? I will get him tested for parasites and do x-rays and bloodwork, as well as ordering another table which is higher off the ground. I will move up his basking branch a couple of inches like you suggested. This is the multivitamin.
Screen Shot 2021-01-24 at 2.49.47 PM.png
 
dinothechameleon said:
The bulb is incandescent, and not colored, just white. I do have a solarmeter, but I don't quite understand what the numbers mean. It says that his basking branch is about 3.0 but what does that represent? I will get him tested for parasites and do x-rays and bloodwork, as well as ordering another table which is higher off the ground. I will move up his basking branch a couple of inches like you suggested. This is the multivitamin. View attachment 290221
Click to expand...
Those are all perfect! The numbers mean the UVI level if you have the 6.5.
 
The basking branch should be a UVI level of 3, so if your Solarmeter says that, don’t raise the branch at all!
 
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