Klyde O'Scope
Chameleon Enthusiast
Disclaimer: We are not veterinarians here, much less herp vets; the advice/suggestions come largely from members' self-education and experiences.
Whenever I see a calcium deficiency/imbalance in a reptile that's getting calcium supplementation, my mind runs first to the UVB, because without it, the chameleon cannot assimilate the calcium.
For the science, here are some articles by Dr. Frances M. Baines, M.A. Vet.M.B. M.R.C.V.S., considered to be the leading authority on UVB & D3 in reptiles.
https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-1-d&q=frances+baines+reptiles+d3+calcium+uvb
https://reptilesmagazine.com/an-in-depth-look-at-uv-light-and-its-proper-use-with-reptiles/
She can explain things much better than anyone here.
Here is Dr. Baines website: http://www.uvguide.co.uk/
IMO, 5" above the screen for a 5.0 linear UVB is too high—the basking site would have to be 4-5" below the screen in order for the chameleon to get enough UVB (UVI). Mine is less than an inch above the screen with no problems—even during his ceiling climbing phase.
https://www.chameleonforums.com/threads/simple-uvb-fixture-supports.177896/
Personally, I think despite the cost, a UVI meter (Solarmeter 6.5x) should be as required a piece of equipment as a UVB itself. IME, it's worth it. For those handy with an Arduino board, a DIY version can be built for under $50.
This next part is a bit difficult. Chameleons—most chameleons—are fecund animals, and very close to the bottom of the food chain, the only thing lower being the bugs they eat. Otherwise, chameleons are food for many other kinds of animals. As such, despite perfect breeding and husbandry, sometimes they can & do just crash (fail to thrive). It's not anyone's fault—it's Nature (capital N). It can happen with other fecund animals as well (fecundity is not the reason—it's just a correlation).
This is more common with wild-caught animals, and those bred under less than ideal conditions, but it can happen to any of them and us.
I'm not suggesting this is the case, and I certainly hope it's not, but it's something I think every reptile keeper should be aware of. Beating oneself up over things beyond our control... not good.
Other folks here have more knowledge/experience—each to their own strengths.
Hoping for the best.
Whenever I see a calcium deficiency/imbalance in a reptile that's getting calcium supplementation, my mind runs first to the UVB, because without it, the chameleon cannot assimilate the calcium.
For the science, here are some articles by Dr. Frances M. Baines, M.A. Vet.M.B. M.R.C.V.S., considered to be the leading authority on UVB & D3 in reptiles.
https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-1-d&q=frances+baines+reptiles+d3+calcium+uvb
https://reptilesmagazine.com/an-in-depth-look-at-uv-light-and-its-proper-use-with-reptiles/
She can explain things much better than anyone here.
Here is Dr. Baines website: http://www.uvguide.co.uk/
IMO, 5" above the screen for a 5.0 linear UVB is too high—the basking site would have to be 4-5" below the screen in order for the chameleon to get enough UVB (UVI). Mine is less than an inch above the screen with no problems—even during his ceiling climbing phase.
https://www.chameleonforums.com/threads/simple-uvb-fixture-supports.177896/
Personally, I think despite the cost, a UVI meter (Solarmeter 6.5x) should be as required a piece of equipment as a UVB itself. IME, it's worth it. For those handy with an Arduino board, a DIY version can be built for under $50.
- A meter is the only way of knowing for sure what the strength of a bulb is, and what distance to place a basking site beneath it.
- In the long run, a meter will save money. The 'change it every year' meets the life expectancy and warranties, but when UVB bulbs burn out, it's not like flipping a switch—they can last for several months beyond that. I have one that is 2 years old and still puts out its original strength (probably an anomaly). There are also other ways of extending bulb life.
This next part is a bit difficult. Chameleons—most chameleons—are fecund animals, and very close to the bottom of the food chain, the only thing lower being the bugs they eat. Otherwise, chameleons are food for many other kinds of animals. As such, despite perfect breeding and husbandry, sometimes they can & do just crash (fail to thrive). It's not anyone's fault—it's Nature (capital N). It can happen with other fecund animals as well (fecundity is not the reason—it's just a correlation).
This is more common with wild-caught animals, and those bred under less than ideal conditions, but it can happen to any of them and us.
I'm not suggesting this is the case, and I certainly hope it's not, but it's something I think every reptile keeper should be aware of. Beating oneself up over things beyond our control... not good.
Other folks here have more knowledge/experience—each to their own strengths.
Hoping for the best.
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