Panther Double Mansion.

cyberlocc

Chameleon Enthusiast
I decided, (kinda late :p), to make a loose build log. It will be loose as my phone is broken and getting the wife to come out in the heat and take pics is a challenge (prying her phone away is even harder lol).

Plus I already started and am maybe halfway done, a tad less.

The idea has changed over many times. To fit my needs, sadly this has involved undoing a lot that was done and redoing/changing.

The original idea was to make it as a living room cage for QT. I then later decided a better purpose. So the removable Divider idea was nixed and a solid wall is going in. However, my reptile room cage plans works for all the chams I plan to keep, aside from 2 male panthers. They need bigger digs, this will be there bigger digs.

Anyway I kept being asked for pics so decided to start a thread :).

Now here is where I am.

View media item 42884View media item 42885
The internal dimensions of each side is 24x24x52. (minus the 2x2s that frame the corners and the bottom 2x6s)

Lots of work to go. In the end, it will look like a piece of furniture (hopefully). My wife said she wanted more plants in the living room :p so I used that as an in for this in the living room.

The cage will look like furniture, it will have a trim top and bottom (bottom for looks top for use and looks) The bottom trim will be 1x6s that will be altered with a router. The top will have the same router finish, with 1x10s. This will hide all the lighting and the rain domes.

The screen top, will be removable (though made of wood frame and sealed). That way if a tear happens I could remove and repair it. It will be bolted on, with nuts in the wood.

The cage will be separated into 2 sections. There will be a "Substrate Pan" built into the bottom. It will have drainage and be 5.5 inches tall.

The next two things will be the "Hot Topic" as they are largely debated around here.

There will be 3 4in vent holes in each side of the cage. This will be the only airflow from the sides, as the front doors will be sliding glass. This will simulate a "Glass Terrarium" it will keep the humidity high. There will be fans in the top that will be on a timer to help airflow and dry out when needed. Mistings will be kept short, for the ability to dry inbetween and not soak my plants. The bottom cupboard, will have sliding wood doors.

Plants the other hot debate. This will be a bio active enclosure, with a drainage layer and then cocofiber substrate. Isopods and Spring tails will also be in there as a cleaner crew. It will be heavily planted, and likely the walls will be covered in Cork sheet decorations (the ones that look like trees). Or fern panels if I can find them.

Plants I have currently decided on is, Ficus (maybe hibiscus), grape, and air plants all over. I want to add some more ground cover plants but have not decided what yet.

One of the hardest decisions I had to make with this cage was sealing. I want it to be non toxic and durable, as well as truly waterproof. This lands me in a hard spot that cost is high.

The decision that I have made is to fiberglass the corners for strength. I will then coat the entire inside with Sweetwater Epoxy Paint. Which is made for making plywood Aquariums, it is 100% water proof, non toxic and very strong and durable.

I will seal the inside and outside with the Sweetwater, the inside will get a few coats while the outside will get 1. After I do the outside with Sweetwater, I will then paint it with Black flat acrylic paint just for looks. This should make this to be very durable and last a long long time.

I am using a 3/4 inch PVC bulkhead for draining excess water. There will be a drain bucket and water supply for the mister in the bottom cupboard. There will also be 1/2-1 inch hydroton balls or similar for a drainage layer under the soil.

Fiberglassing should be done by the end of the week. I then need to wait 2 weeks or so until the sweetwater can be applied. so stay tuned.

I should have a new update later today.
 
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Nice looking already. What are you gonna use to make it hydrofobe? I dont think the fiberwood plank on the floor can endure much moisture.
 
Looks really nice, like the demensions you choose should be perfect for the male panthers. How are you going to keep the humidity from warping the particle board? I built something similar and even with copious amounts of sealing and resealing ended up warping within a year and rotting within 2 - 2 1/2 years. Was an outdoor iguana enclosure without an automated mister, just the Florida humidity and occasional rain coming in sideways around the roof was enough to cause the issues.
 
Nice looking already. What are you gonna use to make it hydrofobe? I dont think the fiberwood plank on the floor can endure much moisture.

Not going to lie dont know what a hydrofobe is lol. reiterate and I will answer :p.

But I think I know where you are going with that. How to seal the water, there will only be fiberglass on the corners and they wont be to waterproof just top add strength for the sweetwater. That will be gone over with Sweet Water epoxy. Sweet Water is a epoxy resin paint, (its thinner than the other marine epoxys, as it has a higher solvent count, once dry its similar). People use it in the plywood aquarium hobby. I have seen it used for 2000 gallon shark tanks and it held up for 20+ years :). It is 100% waterproof and kinda pricey lol.

It is in essence like I said above, a Marine Epoxy like is used to seal boats. It is just thinner to start with, but drys to a hard rock substance, that is non toxic.
http://pentairaes.com/epoxy-paint-kits.html < Sweetwater Epoxy.

I also liked the Marine epoxy, though it cost a bit more (its thicker so it goes further when thinned like the sweetwater is already.) However like I said its thicker, so you need to buy more stuff to thin it, then get the thinning right without damaging the resin. Then you have to add tint and it goes on lol. It is harder to apply and keep smooth as it is thick.

I also looked at some other epoxy's from newer brands on Ebay ect. I found some people saying they work well, but there is a ton more good reviews from the Aquarium folks for the sweet water.

Both Sweet Water and West Marine Epoxy, share an issue however. That is if the corners flex, they can develop stress cracking. I think this more applys to the AQ people then me, as they are holding 100s of gallons of water, which undoubtedly adds stress. But they suggest to fiberglass the corners to prevent that, with bondo being 15 a can plus cloth for 6, I figured why not.

I am also going to seal the floor with the slope made of body filler. Then sweet water over that :).

I looked at the Liquid Rubber and Pond Armor as well. While they do not share the cracking issue (the Pond armor does but its better about it). The silicon does not stick to the LR, and Pond Armor would require a gallon to do this interior at the price of 250.

Looks really nice, like the demensions you choose should be perfect for the male panthers. How are you going to keep the humidity from warping the particle board? I built something similar and even with copious amounts of sealing and resealing ended up warping within a year and rotting within 2 - 2 1/2 years. Was an outdoor iguana enclosure without an automated mister, just the Florida humidity and occasional rain coming in sideways around the roof was enough to cause the issues.

So I am dealing with that with Sweetwater. The entire cage is going to be sealed in with Sweet Water, inside and out. With Silicon seams where needed. There will be no way for water to get in at all, not from the inside or the out. Like I said above, I seen a guy use it for a 2000 gallon shark tank and many other plywood tanks. They sealed it with sweet water inside out and it last over 20 years, is the longest I seen someone say they had it. Leak free, the others hadn't built it that long ago, but results for 10 years + are a dime a dozen :).

The problem I think a lot of people have is cheaping out. I asked here during my search for suggestions. And got a lot of use Urthane (I assume that is what you did). The issue with that is urthane no matter how thickly applied is not waterproof. It is water resistant, not proof.

If water falls on it and is wiped away or runs down it can be okay for awhile. However standing water and UV will end its usefulness quickly. That is what I keep reading anyway, I have no experience with long term use of it in this manner.

To successfully seal a tank like this, or a boat. You need to use high end 2 part epoxy sealer. And reinforce it correctly. This option is often overlooked or not thought about as its cost. A gallon of Epoxy that can do the job is over 100 dollars and cannot be picked up at a box store, and usually requires Hazmat shipping. Requires Masks gloves ect to apply. Its harder to work with and more expensive, but it is the only way to do it right.

I am not trying to knock Urethane. I used it for my first 2 cages. However I did so know that it will not hold the test of time. I also did so on enclosures that are fully screen and will not have standing water. In this case with standing water and where I want a long life going with true sealer is the only option.

I think a lot of the Urethane issues comes from people assumptions. I seen a lot of people making them with it on the AQ forums and here. People saying "Its waterproof, bars use it for counters and it holds up for years". That is a falsity, bars and restaurants use 2 part epoxy's. The epoxy's are to make boats float, where a leak could mean life or death, so I 100% trust them to save my floor lol.
 
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So small update to the work I got done today and after the pics in OP.

View media item 42897This is the finished "Substrate Tray". There is a 2x6 on all 4 sides in between the 2x2s, and 1 in the middle the wall sits on. This also adds strength to the setup.

View media item 42895View media item 42896These are pictures of the divider wall installed. It is built from 1x2s. They are stacked vertically (so the 2 inches is vertical). I built a box of them and added one in the center for more support.

This "Frame" was then screwed to the bottom into the floor, and the top and back. I then used left over 1/4 plywood to make the wall panels. When screwed to the frame all the 1/4 ply is stronger than it sounds. I am new to this kind of stuff but it was stronger than I thought it would be. I used that to keep dimensions and weight down.

From the pics you may notice I used epoxy wood putty to seal alot of the corners and fill some holes. I still have more to do with it though :). The corners on the floor I think I am going to use Bondo filler however for more strength.
 
Good brother in law:)

Not really, all he did was help with the shelves. Then he took his chop saw and stopped helping due to my sister complaining.

Home depot cut the ply for the sides and back. And from his brilliant Idea, of put the sides on then the supports. I had to take the whole thing apart later and replace 2 of the 2x2s from the structure, and re cut 2 more. Due to not being square at all.

To make my whole time even less enjoyable. I dont own a chop saw, and my grandfather has my table saw in Pheonix.
(Not that I use it much till now anyway :p.) So all this has been done with a hand saw and a skill saw. (aside from the shelves 2x3s, 2x4s, the roof 2x2s, and 6 of the supporting 2x2s)
 
Not really, all he did was help with the shelves. Then he took his chop saw and stopped helping due to my sister complaining.

Home depot cut the ply for the sides and back. And from his brilliant Idea, of put the sides on then the feet. I had to take the whole thing apart later and replace 2x2s from the structure.

To make my whole time even less enjoyable. I dont own a chop saw, and my grandfather has my table saw in Pheonix.
(Not that I use it much till now anyway :p.) So all this has been done with a hand saw and a skill saw. (aside from the shelves 2x3s, 2x4s, the roof 2x2s, and 6 of the supporting 2x2s)
My Goodness,That is a lot of wood and panels to cut n build together,Im glad he did help u.
 
I am too, I am appreciative of his help at first. However my sis got mad and so he started rush and making a bigger mess :(. the fact that he kept helping was cool of him though.

In her defense they were here visiting and I told him my plans and he said he was good with wood. So he wanted to help and she wanted to go for a hike lol. Plus they dont have many friends (quite like me, and the wife, after having kids the social life goes down hill). So i think she didnt like him hanging with someone else.

He is moving up here in a few months though, he got a job as the A/M of Kmart up here, so in 10 weeks his training over and they are moving here. Then I am really going to need his help. To fill the reptile room with cages :p. Going to make a whole lot then lol.

20 feet of wall space worth of 24x20x36 cages, and baby cages below. So 10 and I dont even know lol.

I am already working on plans for those as well. The Adult cages will be 48 inches wide and have a divider in the center (a lot like this one). It will have the same idea, sliding glass with 1 peice of glass fully covering 1 side. However those will be made of PVCX, baby cages same idea, only smaller.
 
My Goodness,That is a lot of wood and panels to cut n build together,Im glad he did help u.

I installed a mod just for AlphaKenC. Just wait, I dont feel like photoing it now but tomorrow's update will show it. I did some more after the pic, I got the top on. And the mod is up there, it was a spur of the moment brainstorm.
 
Looks really nice, like the demensions you choose should be perfect for the male panthers. How are you going to keep the humidity from warping the particle board? I built something similar and even with copious amounts of sealing and resealing ended up warping within a year and rotting within 2 - 2 1/2 years. Was an outdoor iguana enclosure without an automated mister, just the Florida humidity and occasional rain coming in sideways around the roof was enough to cause the issues.

I ment hydrophobe. Means that it does not absorb liquids. But i see you figured it out :)
 
I decided, (kinda late :p), to make a loose build log. It will be loose as my phone is broken and getting the wife to come out in the heat and take pics is a challenge (prying her phone away is even harder lol).

Plus I already started and am maybe halfway done, a tad less.

The idea has changed over many times. To fit my needs, sadly this has involved undoing a lot that was done and redoing/changing.

The original idea was to make it as a living room cage for QT. I then later decided a better purpose. So the removable Divider idea was nixed and a solid wall is going in. However, my reptile room cage plans works for all the chams I plan to keep, aside from 2 male panthers. They need bigger digs, this will be there bigger digs.

Anyway I kept being asked for pics so decided to start a thread :).

Now here is where I am.

View media item 42884View media item 42885
The internal dimensions of each side is 24x24x52. (minus the 2x2s that frame the corners and the bottom 2x6s)

Lots of work to go. In the end, it will look like a piece of furniture (hopefully). My wife said she wanted more plants in the living room :p so I used that as an in for this in the living room.

The cage will look like furniture, it will have a trim top and bottom (bottom for looks top for use and looks) The bottom trim will be 1x6s that will be altered with a router. The top will have the same router finish, with 1x10s. This will hide all the lighting and the rain domes.

The screen top, will be removable (though made of wood frame and sealed). That way if a tear happens I could remove and repair it. It will be bolted on, with nuts in the wood.

The cage will be separated into 2 sections. There will be a "Substrate Pan" built into the bottom. It will have drainage and be 5.5 inches tall.

The next two things will be the "Hot Topic" as they are largely debated around here.

There will be 3 4in vent holes in each side of the cage. This will be the only airflow from the sides, as the front doors will be sliding glass. This will simulate a "Glass Terrarium" it will keep the humidity high. There will be fans in the top that will be on a timer to help airflow and dry out when needed. Mistings will be kept short, for the ability to dry inbetween and not soak my plants. The bottom cupboard, will have sliding wood doors.

Plants the other hot debate. This will be a bio active enclosure, with a drainage layer and then cocofiber substrate. Isopods and Spring tails will also be in there as a cleaner crew. It will be heavily planted, and likely the walls will be covered in Cork sheet decorations (the ones that look like trees). Or fern panels if I can find them.

Plants I have currently decided on is, Ficus (maybe hibiscus), grape, and air plants all over. I want to add some more ground cover plants but have not decided what yet.

One of the hardest decisions I had to make with this cage was sealing. I want it to be non toxic and durable, as well as truly waterproof. This lands me in a hard spot that cost is high.

The decision that I have made is to fiberglass the corners for strength. I will then coat the entire inside with Sweetwater Epoxy Paint. Which is made for making plywood Aquariums, it is 100% water proof, non toxic and very strong and durable.

I will seal the inside and outside with the Sweetwater, the inside will get a few coats while the outside will get 1. After I do the outside with Sweetwater, I will then paint it with Black flat acrylic paint just for looks. This should make this to be very durable and last a long long time.

I am using a 3/4 inch PVC bulkhead for draining excess water. There will be a drain bucket and water supply for the mister in the bottom cupboard. There will also be 1/2-1 inch hydroton balls or similar for a drainage layer under the soil.

Fiberglassing should be done by the end of the week. I then need to wait 2 weeks or so until the sweetwater can be applied. so stay tuned.

I should have a new update later today.
Looking forward to seeing the finished product
 
Seems like you've got it figured out, the sweet water stuff sounds interesting I'll have to look into it for future use. Thanks for sharing all the details.
 
So a few text updates. Pics later today, I got a million things to do and only so much time lol :).

I got the crown on, the light mounts on, mister plate on, and will be sloping the floor for the drain today. Drain will be here tomorrow then I can glass it.

So for the drain slope, I have been racking my brain. Lost in ideas, I asked some people I know and decided to slope it with a product called "Rock Hard" I am going to slope it maybe 3/8 or so from the sides to the center and drop my drain in the center. The drain will be 3/4 inch PVC.

I will post pic updates later in the day, when I get the floor sloped and a few other things done. Hopefully I can do it all with the ton of other stuff going on today lol.

Another update, this project will get extended a tad longer till complete finish. As I have decided to make the wood walls living walls after sealing.

So after my Epoxy has dried, I will be using great stuff and silicon and pots to put an array of plants on the walls and floors. The goal will be fully green planted walls. Due to this change, The outsides final coating will be Sweetwater Epoxy. So I am going to use Black Epoxy instead of white as the walls will be covered in plants and cocofiber anyway.
 
I know I promised an update today Pic Wise. But I am just too tired to take pics lol. So its going to have to wait till tomorrow. I have a million things to do still today and I just want to sleep lol.

Anyway I can run down what I did. I setup the new venting plan, got that cut screwed and sawed out. I sloped the floor and filled the corners of the new divider wall.

I know that doesn't sound like much but believe me it was a lot harder than it sounds.

Tomorrows goal, is to fill the rest of the inside, and glass the floor. then Friday I will glass the corners all of them.
 
Alright guys I know I said no update with pics. But I got a free min and took some :).


So first up the slope is done. It slopes from a tad over 1/4 inch on the sides to zero at a 6 inch or so circle in the center. More sloping will be added with the Fiberglass tomorrow.
View media item 42943
New Vent idea. My hole idea transferring over didn't work too well. So now there will be this, and I will staple screen to the outside. After that a routered frame of 1x2s (same size as the inside one, maybe a tad smaller) will be added on as well over the screen and staples.
View media item 42949
A shot of the crown installed a similar one will be added to the bottom as well (its smaller).
View media item 42948
Mist King bulkhead holes. I know they dont look aligned in the pic, but they are mostly. It is just the angle of the pic, spoiler I was on a ladder to take this lol.
View media item 42944
The light holders, Installed there is 1 on each side. I may need to move the back one, haven't decided yet but it may be pulled in a little more to the front. These grooves are perfect size to have 1x4s dropped into them. So that is what will be done. I will secure the lights to 1x4s and they can drop in the grooves, and are easily removable, if needed. View media item 42946 This was my great invention :). there is 7 inches from the bottom of the light holder to where the top of the screen will be.

The side of the Crown. I know there is a gap to the end, there is a reason for that. Once the bottom is on (will have the same gap) I will put a 1x2 down the back. This will ensure the cage up against the wall will have 1/2 inch clearance for misting hoses and cords.
View media item 42947.

I know the goal was to get the glass on tomorrow. However after thinking more about it, I forgot some stuff that needed done. So the new goal is fill all the gaps. Put the foot beam on, Bondo the slope and test fit the drain. Plus any other odds and ends I need to do, then friday I will Glass.
 
Thanks guys, I will say this is turning out to be considerably more money and work than I thought it would be lol. But I am a perfectionist and want everything right and looking good.

That's how it seems to be most of the time. You think, I am not spending $350.00 on a screen cage when I can build one for much cheaper. Then $500.00 later........

I have done so many enclosures....I think that's how I ended up with greenhouses. It just progressed to that. Ha!
 
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