Paranoid Newbie???

dtnichols109

New Member
Hello everyone! My name is Daniel and I'm new to Chameleon Forums, and chameleon ownership in general. I've had my little guy for about a week now and had a few issues listed on the bottom of the husbandry I was hoping more experienced owners could give me advice on. Thanks in advance to everyone helping! :)


Chameleon Info

Your Chameleon – His name is Hugh, and he is a male (presumed) Veiled Chameleon who is approximately 3” long and 3 months old (presumed) at this time. He has been in my care since August 1st, 2017.

Handling – I have not tried handling him yet as I’ve only had him for one week and I was letting him get used to his surroundings before needlessly stressing him out. At what time should I try handling, and are there any good tips on how?

Feeding – I’m currently feeding him almost exclusively mini crickets (1/4”) that I’ve gut loaded with a Fluker’s High-Calcium Cricket Diet, collard greens, sweet potato peelings, and an orange slice. I offer him the crickets in a cup 2-3x daily. At max he’s only eaten 3 crickets in one day, and only ever 1 per offering, even though to my understanding he should be putting down 8-10 crickets. At first I thought that this was normal as he got used to his new home, but now I’m starting to get concerned. So far he has eaten all of the crickets offered out of the cup, but I do leave 2-3 crickets in the cup on the bottom of his enclosure at all times just in case he does get hungry, which he has yet to eat from. Typically, once he gets a cricket in his mouth it takes him a few minutes to swallow/digest it (he does an Upward-Facing Dog yoga pose as he swallows) and this seems to break his interest in continuing eating. After being with me for a week, is this still considered normal behavior for a young Veiled Chameleon?

Supplements – I’m using all Rep-Cal supplements. I use the Calcium w/out D3 with every food offering (since he is young and growing quickly); I intend on feeding the Multivitamin and the Calcium w/ D3 on alternating Sundays (max 2 a month each).

Watering – Right now I mist his enclosure (focusing on the plants) 3-4x daily for about 2-3 minutes each time. He does not, REPEAT DOES NOT, like this and will either hide in the plants themselves and wait out the storm, or flees to the opposite side of his cage. I do use the ReptiSafe Water Conditioner by ZooMed on all water that he comes into contact with. I witness him drinking typically 1-2x daily and so I believe that this method is working. I’m currently in the process of installing a Little Dripper by ZooMed into his cage so that he will have access to water 24/7; saving up for a Mist King.

Fecal Description – He’s had 4-6 droppings in my care as of writing this. All stool parts were a darker shade of brown, quickly drying to an almost black under his lights. The urine part started off as yellow but gradually changed to a more off-white, and now has been mostly white for the past 2 days. He has not been checked for any parasites.

History – Hugh was purchased at a local pet shop, and so I don’t have much back history on him. I grew up caring for box turtles with my dad (they are his and he still has them), and so I have a pretty basic-to-average familiarity with taking care of reptiles.


Cage Info

Cage Type – For right now I have a Medium ReptiBreeze screen cage by ZooMed (16x16x30), because it was my understanding that a large cage for a small chameleon would be too overwhelming. When he hits the 9-month mark I’m going to switch to a Dragon Strand Large Breeder Cage (21.5x16x44.5) because they look neat and will help maintain good humidity levels, which is something I’m currently struggling with.

Lighting – I'm using two bulbs; a ReptiSun 5.0 for UVA/UVB and a ZooMed 50w Repti Basking Spot Lamp. I turn the ReptiSun on at 7:30am and the basking lamp on at 8:00am, and the basking lamp off at 7:00pm and the ReptiSun off at 7:30pm. In total, 12 hours of the ReptiSun and 11 hours of the basking lamp. Someone told me that the difference helps simulate the natural sunrise/sunset and warming/cooling of their environment.

Temperature – This has been a struggle because I’ve already purchased two digital thermometers with probes, and both, one more than the other, give sketchy readings. The more reliable one says my basking temperature is between 80-83 degrees F and my resting temperature is at 72-75 degrees F. At night I turn off all the lights, and my room gets to be between 65-70 degrees F. I test these temperatures by moving the probe of the more reliable thermometer around the cage and letting it rest for 10 minutes for an accurate reading. When not in use, I let it sit directly under the basking spot lamp to get a constant reading of the hottest temperature in the cage. Always looking for suggestions on a good, reliable thermometer/hygrometer!

Humidity – One of the thermometers was also a hygrometer, and unfortunately it was the sketchier of the two. When used, my levels consistently read between 10%-30% no matter what I try. I’m also aware that it should ideally be in the 40%-70% humidity range for a Veiled Chameleon. To increase the humidity, I’ve added two live potted plants, mist as described above under ‘Watering’, and am working on repurposing a shower curtain into panels for twos sides of the cage; until I can get my Dragon Strand. Again, always looking for suggestions on a good reliable thermometer/hygrometer!

Plants – In order to help increase humidity levels, and for my chameleon’s happiness, I’ve recently added two live potted plants; a 4” Weeping Fig and a 6” Pothos (Devil’s Ivy). I rinsed each plant off well and got rid of most of the original soil. I then repotted the plants in a clean, rinsed pot with organic potting soil and large river rocks on the top so he doesn’t accidently ingest the soil. No fertilizers or plant foods were used. He doesn’t seem too interested in the Weeping Fig, as it is still pretty small, but he loves to drink from the Pothos plant’s leaves, as well as the leaves of his fake hanging plant and vine.

Placement - His cage is located in my bedroom, where just my partner and I sleep, so I would not consider it high traffic. The vent is located on the other side of the room, as well as a small fan that we keep constantly going on either the slow or medium setting. He does not receive direct wind from that fan. We do sleep with the windows open in the evening (only during the summer), but I have woken up once or twice a night just to make sure that the temperature stays above 65 degrees F. His cage rests on top of my dresser, and so the bottom of the cage is a good 5.5’ off the floor of my room and the top of his cage not but a few feet from my ceiling.

Location – I’m located in a small town called Roy, Washington; fairly close to Mt. Rainer within the Puget Sound Basin.


Current Problem – The past two days I’ve walked into the room and found him resting his head on the branch in a strange way with either one or both of his eyes closed. At first I thought he was maybe napping, but when he sleeps he usually tilts his head up towards the sky and he isn’t doing this when I catch him with his head down. What made me write was that this morning I noticed him actually using his vine to scratch his eyes, both of them. I included a few pictures in this post: one of him swallowing water the weird way he does (swallows food this way too), one of his eye closed when I first walked into the room (I believe the other one was open), one where he is scratching his eyes with his vine (has me worried), and one where he was just hanging out looking normal and cute (to me). I've also included a picture of his cage, just in case that has any clues as well. His eyes don’t look puffy or swollen to me. They look normal, with no discharge or anything messing them up. Maybe I’m being too worrisome? I did read something somewhere about this possibly being a vitamin A deficiency, and since he was a pet shop baby and I don’t know much more to his prior husbandry than that I’m not sure if that is a possibility at this young of an age or not. If I open the cage he perks right back up and opens both eyes normally. I’ve tried to mist him directly thinking maybe a flake of old shed skin, but as mentioned about he DOES NOT like that, moves around the cage, and so it proved useless. Is this maybe normal for Veiled Chameleons? I’m a little worried to give him vitamin A as I’ve read how dangerous it can be if it is not needed… suggestions?

CAGE 002.jpg HUGH 002.jpg HUGH 5.jpg HUGH 6.jpg HUGH 8.jpg
 
First off way to go on your new "guy" (from what I can see you may have a little girl, if you can post some real clear pictures of the back feet it will be easier to tell)!!

Second thank you for filling out the help form!!!!! So many people do not take the time, and that just makes it harder to help.

I don't want to panic you, but I think Hugh may be in trouble. He is real little, and so skinny!! If he eats and drinks like that he may have a RI. And is it just me or is there something real funky coming from that nostril??

It may however be nothing more than fixing a few things. He definitely needs more plants, sticks, vines etc... And you are right he should be eating a lot more. This could be a simple fix though. You mentioned leaving a few crickets in a feeder cup at the bottom of his cage... Try making a feeder cup you can hang at his level, this is what I made:
IMG_20170706_000740.jpg


You may want to try scaling back the size your feeding, and just offer more. You can also use fruit flies, when my guy was little he loved them!! Also I know some people may disagree but I put an appropriate amount of feeders in my chams cup in the am and leave them there, if they are not gone the next morning I swap them out for fresh. I started doing this with my chams because when I got them they where also way under weight, and I wanted them to have the option to eat whenever they are hungry.

What are your thoughts @Andee, @jamest0o0,@Kristen Wilkins ??
 
Hello everyone! My name is Daniel and I'm new to Chameleon Forums, and chameleon ownership in general. I've had my little guy for about a week now and had a few issues listed on the bottom of the husbandry I was hoping more experienced owners could give me advice on. Thanks in advance to everyone helping! :)


Chameleon Info

Your Chameleon – His name is Hugh, and he is a male (presumed) Veiled Chameleon who is approximately 3” long and 3 months old (presumed) at this time. He has been in my care since August 1st, 2017.

Handling – I have not tried handling him yet as I’ve only had him for one week and I was letting him get used to his surroundings before needlessly stressing him out. At what time should I try handling, and are there any good tips on how?

Feeding – I’m currently feeding him almost exclusively mini crickets (1/4”) that I’ve gut loaded with a Fluker’s High-Calcium Cricket Diet, collard greens, sweet potato peelings, and an orange slice. I offer him the crickets in a cup 2-3x daily. At max he’s only eaten 3 crickets in one day, and only ever 1 per offering, even though to my understanding he should be putting down 8-10 crickets. At first I thought that this was normal as he got used to his new home, but now I’m starting to get concerned. So far he has eaten all of the crickets offered out of the cup, but I do leave 2-3 crickets in the cup on the bottom of his enclosure at all times just in case he does get hungry, which he has yet to eat from. Typically, once he gets a cricket in his mouth it takes him a few minutes to swallow/digest it (he does an Upward-Facing Dog yoga pose as he swallows) and this seems to break his interest in continuing eating. After being with me for a week, is this still considered normal behavior for a young Veiled Chameleon?

Supplements – I’m using all Rep-Cal supplements. I use the Calcium w/out D3 with every food offering (since he is young and growing quickly); I intend on feeding the Multivitamin and the Calcium w/ D3 on alternating Sundays (max 2 a month each).

Watering – Right now I mist his enclosure (focusing on the plants) 3-4x daily for about 2-3 minutes each time. He does not, REPEAT DOES NOT, like this and will either hide in the plants themselves and wait out the storm, or flees to the opposite side of his cage. I do use the ReptiSafe Water Conditioner by ZooMed on all water that he comes into contact with. I witness him drinking typically 1-2x daily and so I believe that this method is working. I’m currently in the process of installing a Little Dripper by ZooMed into his cage so that he will have access to water 24/7; saving up for a Mist King.

Fecal Description – He’s had 4-6 droppings in my care as of writing this. All stool parts were a darker shade of brown, quickly drying to an almost black under his lights. The urine part started off as yellow but gradually changed to a more off-white, and now has been mostly white for the past 2 days. He has not been checked for any parasites.

History – Hugh was purchased at a local pet shop, and so I don’t have much back history on him. I grew up caring for box turtles with my dad (they are his and he still has them), and so I have a pretty basic-to-average familiarity with taking care of reptiles.


Cage Info

Cage Type – For right now I have a Medium ReptiBreeze screen cage by ZooMed (16x16x30), because it was my understanding that a large cage for a small chameleon would be too overwhelming. When he hits the 9-month mark I’m going to switch to a Dragon Strand Large Breeder Cage (21.5x16x44.5) because they look neat and will help maintain good humidity levels, which is something I’m currently struggling with.

Lighting – I'm using two bulbs; a ReptiSun 5.0 for UVA/UVB and a ZooMed 50w Repti Basking Spot Lamp. I turn the ReptiSun on at 7:30am and the basking lamp on at 8:00am, and the basking lamp off at 7:00pm and the ReptiSun off at 7:30pm. In total, 12 hours of the ReptiSun and 11 hours of the basking lamp. Someone told me that the difference helps simulate the natural sunrise/sunset and warming/cooling of their environment.

Temperature – This has been a struggle because I’ve already purchased two digital thermometers with probes, and both, one more than the other, give sketchy readings. The more reliable one says my basking temperature is between 80-83 degrees F and my resting temperature is at 72-75 degrees F. At night I turn off all the lights, and my room gets to be between 65-70 degrees F. I test these temperatures by moving the probe of the more reliable thermometer around the cage and letting it rest for 10 minutes for an accurate reading. When not in use, I let it sit directly under the basking spot lamp to get a constant reading of the hottest temperature in the cage. Always looking for suggestions on a good, reliable thermometer/hygrometer!

Humidity – One of the thermometers was also a hygrometer, and unfortunately it was the sketchier of the two. When used, my levels consistently read between 10%-30% no matter what I try. I’m also aware that it should ideally be in the 40%-70% humidity range for a Veiled Chameleon. To increase the humidity, I’ve added two live potted plants, mist as described above under ‘Watering’, and am working on repurposing a shower curtain into panels for twos sides of the cage; until I can get my Dragon Strand. Again, always looking for suggestions on a good reliable thermometer/hygrometer!

Plants – In order to help increase humidity levels, and for my chameleon’s happiness, I’ve recently added two live potted plants; a 4” Weeping Fig and a 6” Pothos (Devil’s Ivy). I rinsed each plant off well and got rid of most of the original soil. I then repotted the plants in a clean, rinsed pot with organic potting soil and large river rocks on the top so he doesn’t accidently ingest the soil. No fertilizers or plant foods were used. He doesn’t seem too interested in the Weeping Fig, as it is still pretty small, but he loves to drink from the Pothos plant’s leaves, as well as the leaves of his fake hanging plant and vine.

Placement - His cage is located in my bedroom, where just my partner and I sleep, so I would not consider it high traffic. The vent is located on the other side of the room, as well as a small fan that we keep constantly going on either the slow or medium setting. He does not receive direct wind from that fan. We do sleep with the windows open in the evening (only during the summer), but I have woken up once or twice a night just to make sure that the temperature stays above 65 degrees F. His cage rests on top of my dresser, and so the bottom of the cage is a good 5.5’ off the floor of my room and the top of his cage not but a few feet from my ceiling.

Location – I’m located in a small town called Roy, Washington; fairly close to Mt. Rainer within the Puget Sound Basin.


Current Problem – The past two days I’ve walked into the room and found him resting his head on the branch in a strange way with either one or both of his eyes closed. At first I thought he was maybe napping, but when he sleeps he usually tilts his head up towards the sky and he isn’t doing this when I catch him with his head down. What made me write was that this morning I noticed him actually using his vine to scratch his eyes, both of them. I included a few pictures in this post: one of him swallowing water the weird way he does (swallows food this way too), one of his eye closed when I first walked into the room (I believe the other one was open), one where he is scratching his eyes with his vine (has me worried), and one where he was just hanging out looking normal and cute (to me). I've also included a picture of his cage, just in case that has any clues as well. His eyes don’t look puffy or swollen to me. They look normal, with no discharge or anything messing them up. Maybe I’m being too worrisome? I did read something somewhere about this possibly being a vitamin A deficiency, and since he was a pet shop baby and I don’t know much more to his prior husbandry than that I’m not sure if that is a possibility at this young of an age or not. If I open the cage he perks right back up and opens both eyes normally. I’ve tried to mist him directly thinking maybe a flake of old shed skin, but as mentioned about he DOES NOT like that, moves around the cage, and so it proved useless. Is this maybe normal for Veiled Chameleons? I’m a little worried to give him vitamin A as I’ve read how dangerous it can be if it is not needed… suggestions?

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Hi their , welcome what a cutie !!. Agreed with @Katacara much much more foliage and cruising space . You want it to be very hard to find your baby . For the eye's it could be several different things . Nutrition , lighting , URI . Have you noticed extra mucus , runny nose , coughing , popping noises , gaping , crusty eyes ? Is there any other lights on at night in your room ? Could you get a close up pic of back heals ?
 
I am having this same problem with my baby veiled cham. Sleeping during the day and not eating much at all. He is very small and skinny.
 
Thank you so much for responding back @Katacara! I'm mostly concerned because of his weight and size as well. I knew he was little but I'm going to work extra hard at getting "him" to gain some more weight. I will create one of the milk jug cups (like yours) to hang in his cage this evening and leave it stocked with a few crickets for him for a few weeks until he gains some more weight. I will try the flies as well... I was nervous that they will get out and all over the cage, laying eggs and what not and then I'd have an infestation; but at this point his immediate health is more concerning. What can I expect with the fruit flies getting in the cage? Is there any other food that I can provide him that will pack on the pounds over the next two weeks or so that his small body can handle?

As far as the RI, I haven't noticed any gunk coming from his eyes or nostrils (I'm pretty sure that was a calcium flake you saw in the photo that he had gotten on his nostril as he had just ate a cricket before that picture), no sunk-in eyes, and he hasn't had any labored breathing aside from the weird swallowing thing he does whenever he gets food or water (first picture of him I believe), so I wasn't sure if that could be it. Anyways, I'll keep a close eye on him and try fattening him up ASAP.

PS - when "he" is feeling better I will post a clear picture of his back feet for confirmation but I was pretty sure at one point I saw two little bumps in between the back toes.
 
@cstocke please start your own thread by filling out the form in the "how to ask for help" sticky. Then we can try to help you. Please be as detailed as possible so we can help with your individual situation.
 
Chameleons will hold their noses pointed upwards when they are having breathing problems. They will even do this when sleeping. That light looks awful bright. I would try changing it out for a 5.0 tube style light. Thay lighy may be bothering his eyes. I say his, but you may gave a her. Post pics of back of back heel and we can tell you for sure. Make sure the multivitamin has Vitamin A and not betacarotene. There is much debate over chameleons being able to convert Betacarotene into vitamin A. Lastly, I would definitely have him/her tested for parasites. Bring in a poop sample to vet. I would rule that on why he may not be eating much. They often will not eat much with an RI or parasites..
 
Your so welcome!! Happy to help. A few things I forgot to mention:

1) Welcome to the wonderful world of chams!! :love:... And be warned they are like potato chips... You can never have just 1 :eek::ROFLMAO:

2) Make sure the edges are covered with something, or at least really smooth! Your guy may walk on the edge, and you don't want him to cut his feet!

Yes I found the fruit flies to be a pain, however you can get them at the pet store and they will be flightless so that helps a little. (Use double sided tape around the enclosure so they can't get far) You could also try wax & butter worms they don't have much in the way of nutritional value so you will want to offer them sparingly (and still offer plenty of crickets) but they are high in fat so for the time being it will help pack on some weight. I don't know what you have available but dubia roaches are more nutritional than crickets (and so much easier to deal with).

Have you found a vet in your area yet that has cham experience? If you have not as of yet start looking now just in case. Better to know now, than needing to scramble if something isn't right. Oh, and when looking test their knowledge about chams a bit because some vets will say they can treat them but know almost nothing about how.

Keep us updated!! I would like to know how you both are doing!! ;)
 
I agree with all that has been said above. He also may have a shed stuck in his eyes especially since they are causing him to be so itchy. I would increase misting duration and use hot water so that when it comes out in a mist (test with your own hand when misting) it should be warm.
 
Bad news everyone :( I woke up this morning and was more positive than ever that your suggestions of a RI were correct. Hugh didn’t eat AT ALL yesterday and drank very little, even passed up wax worms. I made him a “feeder cup” out of milk jug as suggested and attached it to his cage just in case, but nothing in the time that lapsed.

This morning he looked like he was struggling to breath as he drank, and before I even misted his cage with the warm water (which I’ve been doing every 2 hours the past two days cause of his eyes in case it was a shed) I noticed bubbles coming out of his mouth, which to my understanding means a lower respiratory infection. I immediately took him into our vet.

My dad has cared for box turtles my whole life, so I took Hugh to his reptile vet and they gave him antibiotics and are going to keep him for a day or two. Also, he is most definitely a male. The vet was honest with me and said he didn’t think that Hugh would make it though because he was so malnourished and dehydrated (which wasn’t my fault he said), and not properly cared for by the pet shop prior to me getting him. He said he’d give me a call if something happens and a check-in this evening. Sad… but crossing my fingers for my little buddy.

Thank you everyone for your help and suggestions. It made me not think twice or hesitate to take him immediately into the vet, which may or may not save his life. @carol5208 thank you so much for the advice on Vitamin A… right now I had intended on using a multivitamin with the betacarotene, but will look for a new one with Vitamin A (good article, thank you). As I wait for him to get better, I will search for more sticks and foliage as suggestion by Kristen and switch to the longer tube style lamp for his ReptiSun 5.0 to be easier on his eyes. Thank you everyone, wonderful community!
 
Bad news everyone :( I woke up this morning and was more positive than ever that your suggestions of a RI were correct. Hugh didn’t eat AT ALL yesterday and drank very little, even passed up wax worms. I made him a “feeder cup” out of milk jug as suggested and attached it to his cage just in case, but nothing in the time that lapsed.

This morning he looked like he was struggling to breath as he drank, and before I even misted his cage with the warm water (which I’ve been doing every 2 hours the past two days cause of his eyes in case it was a shed) I noticed bubbles coming out of his mouth, which to my understanding means a lower respiratory infection. I immediately took him into our vet.

My dad has cared for box turtles my whole life, so I took Hugh to his reptile vet and they gave him antibiotics and are going to keep him for a day or two. Also, he is most definitely a male. The vet was honest with me and said he didn’t think that Hugh would make it though because he was so malnourished and dehydrated (which wasn’t my fault he said), and not properly cared for by the pet shop prior to me getting him. He said he’d give me a call if something happens and a check-in this evening. Sad… but crossing my fingers for my little buddy.

Thank you everyone for your help and suggestions. It made me not think twice or hesitate to take him immediately into the vet, which may or may not save his life. @carol5208 thank you so much for the advice on Vitamin A… right now I had intended on using a multivitamin with the betacarotene, but will look for a new one with Vitamin A (good article, thank you). As I wait for him to get better, I will search for more sticks and foliage as suggestion by Kristen and switch to the longer tube style lamp for his ReptiSun 5.0 to be easier on his eyes. Thank you everyone, wonderful community!
I'm very happy to hear Hugh is getting care . I'm very sad to hear he has a URI . I hope they can help Hugh recover . We have a little girl Frances(veiled) she's around 16 month , we have struggled with reoccurring respiratory infections for a year . Recovery is about 25% sadly. I will be thinking of both of you . Please keep us posted .
 
If you can I honestly suggest sitting in the shower with him. It will be realtively cold for you, but it will help him breathe with the steam that is created, and I honestly don't suggest leaving him alone on a plant with how weak he is. Also I suggest looking into a heated humidifier if you can and preferably one you can add scents to then get white thyme essential oil, and add just two drops of the essential oil. Reptiles don't need much, I have used more with rodents who have had RI and have done enclosed breathing treatments for them. For chams just put the humidifier above his cage and let the mist kind of fall on it, and make sure the scent kind of permeates his area. White thyme is wonderful for healing RI and opening up air ways in a lot of ways. Tea tree and eucalytpus does this as well but can be harsher for sensitive lungs on reptiles. I wouldn't rely on the thyme to heal him, but breathing treatments combined with the warm humidity will help with helping him breathe and hopefully give him a better chance. Don't do longer than 1 hour at a time but you can do it several times during the day <3 Good luck with your little man, tagging you to make sure you read

@dtnichols109
 
Want to correct some of this, what Hugh has is not URI, it is much worse, it's a LRI or Lower Respiratory Infection. It's pretty much pneumonia or close to it. It is now affecting the little ones lungs. Which is why this one is so dangerous and needs all sorts of supportive care and why Hugh has so much of a lower chance of pulling through. Once it hits the lungs, everything needs to be done to support healthy breathing, water intake and any possible food intake. I will be thinking of your little guy and we will all be hoping for a fast and safe recovery on my end. <3
 
Want to correct some of this, what Hugh has is not URI, it is much worse, it's a LRI or Lower Respiratory Infection. It's pretty much pneumonia or close to it. It is now affecting the little ones lungs. Which is why this one is so dangerous and needs all sorts of supportive care and why Hugh has so much of a lower chance of pulling through. Once it hits the lungs, everything needs to be done to support healthy breathing, water intake and any possible food intake. I will be thinking of your little guy and we will all be hoping for a fast and safe recovery on my end. <3
I was typing to fast and on phone . Sorry for the typo . :confused:
 
I was typing to fast and on phone . Sorry for the typo . :confused:

It's ok sweetie, I just wanted to make sure anyone new to reptile care doesn't mistake the symptoms and the severity of the different type of RI. I mean LRI for rodents are practically a death sentence. Once they get that bad it's about a 5% chance to get them back to where they need to be. If I get someone like that ever, I usually leave them at the vet for their antibiotics and supportive care because they have an actual breath treatment incubator etc. LRI are terrifying for animals, especially reptiles, and it's because it's not recommended for reptiles to be left with vets because the constant stress of being there will often make it worse. But if they like IVs and stuff (if they are that bad) sometimes it's all you can do. With chameleons etc, it can be a dangerous line you are toeing.
 
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