Plant light

[Klyde O'Scope]

or maybe it is just PPF. @Klyde O'Scope knows I think.

It's PPFD, but it's complicated. (What isn't?)

Sorry I got to this late. First, let's clear up some confusion about PAR; it can stand for 2 entirely different things in lighting.

From: https://www.viribright.com/comparing-par-br-mr-light-bulbs/

PAR stands for “parabolic aluminized reflector” and is best used in settings that require a focused, narrow beam of light. Most PARs do not exceed a beam angle of 45 degrees in most cases. BR stands for “bulged reflector” and is considered a wide-angle floodlight often exceeding 100-degree beam angles. MR means “multi-faceted reflector” and the most narrow of the bulb types mostly used as a spotlight.

When talking about the quality of the light itself,
From: https://fluence.science/science-articles/horticulture-lighting-metrics/

PAR is "photosynthetic active radiation." PAR light is the wavelengths of light within the visible range of 400 to 700 nanometers (nm) which drive photosynthesis (Figure 1). PAR is a much used (and often misused) term related to horticulture lighting. PAR is NOT a measurement or “metric” like feet, inches or kilos. Rather, it defines the type of light needed to support photosynthesis. The amount and spectral light quality of PAR light are the important metrics to focus on. (To find out more about spectral light quality click here). Quantum sensors are the primary instrument used to quantify the light intensity of horticulture lighting systems. These sensors work by using an optical filter to create a uniform sensitivity to PAR light (Figure 1), and can be used in combination with a light meter to measure instantaneous light intensity or a data logger to measure cumulative light intensity.

Granted, this stuff gets technical, but I recommend reading both of the above articles entirely, and take from them what you can. I don't understand it all, and IMO some sites seem deliberately obfuscatory in explaining it. Boiling down what I do (think I) know, LEDs are superior to T5 fluorescents.
https://www.chameleonforums.com/threads/led-bar-recommendations.177698/#post-1598391

I too like the Sansi lights. For those that cannot build their own, they're the best I've seen so far, and owning a couple different types, we're happy with both.

The closest comparison I can make to the bulb in the OP is this one. Unfortunately it's out-of-stock at the moment. Another choice might be this one.

TBH though, any of the three are only going to cover about one plant in an enclosure unless you back them off far enough that you lose the intensity you want for a grow light. That, or get a separate bulb for each plant or plant geoup (if closely enough spaced).

For the best combination of coverage & penetration, you want something with more oomph.
That is why—for chameleon enclosures—I like the rectangular pad light—even over the X configuration.

I have a double wide enclosure (48x24x48), so I bought 2 of the pads, and they're working out extremely well. It's (hyperbolically) like daylight in there.

My Missus has two of these lighting two plants each.

The cost of these bulbs may sound high at first, but when you compare them as I did in the above-linked post (50K hr life, 5 yr warranty), they are far more economical in the long run.

 

[Mendez]

It's PPFD, but it's complicated. (What isn't?)

Sorry I got to this late. First, let's clear up some confusion about PAR; it can stand for 2 entirely different things in lighting.

From: https://www.viribright.com/comparing-par-br-mr-light-bulbs/


When talking about the quality of the light itself,
From: https://fluence.science/science-articles/horticulture-lighting-metrics/


Granted, this stuff gets technical, but I recommend reading both of the above articles entirely, and take from them what you can. I don't understand it all, and IMO some sites seem deliberately obfuscatory in explaining it. Boiling down what I do (think I) know, LEDs are superior to T5 fluorescents.
https://www.chameleonforums.com/threads/led-bar-recommendations.177698/#post-1598391

Thanks for that info. I'll definitely read those articles when I have time.

I also have two 36 watt Sansi bulbs over my cage and they work wonderfully!

The cost of these bulbs may sound high at first, but when you compare them as I did in the above-linked post (50K hr life, 5 yr warranty), they are far more economical in the long run.

I agree, when I first saw these lights on amazon I thought they were super expensive, but then I compared them to other lighting sources and found them to be fairly reasonable. Especially since the two sansi lights put out enough heat to act as a basking spot, plus the electricity bill is going down because now your lights have a purpose other than putting out heat (e.g a 65-watt incandescent uses electricity to put out heat but is useless when growing plants). And when comparing the price to quad t5 fixtures, two sansi $= 1 quad $; yet the sansi bulbs put out more light. Plus the Sansi bulbs have a 5-year warranty on Amazon so you can always replace them if they die before then.

 

[Klyde O'Scope]

I too like the Sansi lights. For those that cannot build their own, they're the best I've seen so far, and owning a couple different types, we're happy with both.

Make that three types. The Missus just brought in several pkgs. Two of them (I'm told) contain these for another of her plant tables that have been using up old stock of T12s.

 

[Thesolecontender]

I didnt know there was so much to look for when getting plant lights

Hahaha yeah lighting is actually a very dynamic and complicated science when you get into it.

Should see my work with all the lights on in the plant rooms have a bout half a million watts of led power total