ElliotG
Chameleon Enthusiast
Ah okay, let me edit that. Thanks!The Chameleon School is not a trustworthy site, and for veileds, the only plant list they should use is The Chameleon Academy's one because it has veiled-tested plants
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Ah okay, let me edit that. Thanks!The Chameleon School is not a trustworthy site, and for veileds, the only plant list they should use is The Chameleon Academy's one because it has veiled-tested plants
thank you so much! i’ll get her a golden pothos and a money tree since they’re accessible to me right now and i’ll also check the links for more plants and vines.Here’s a good start to live plants.
https://chameleonacademy.com/plants/
Here’s a list of what I have and keep. I’ve been successful with these.
-Dracaena marginata
-Money Trees
-ponytail palms
-Golden pothos.
Any tree without sap should be good. Just make sure it hasn’t been treated with pesticides and is cleaned before putting in their cages. I use Lilac bush branches and Russian oil branches. Both are really great in my opinion.
Here’s some links to vines that are good.
https://www.amazon.com/Coolrunner-R...uPWNsaWNrUmVkaXJlY3QmZG9Ob3RMb2dDbGljaz10cnVl
https://www.amazon.com/MULTIFACE-Fl...9Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=
Avoid the eco terra vines with that weird texture. Those also fall apart and can damage chameleons eyes.
Just make sure to either cover up the original soil they’re in in pebbles or repot in organic soil. I do both but sometimes people don’t have the time to repot 15 plants in a day .thank you so much! i’ll get her a golden pothos and a money tree since they’re accessible to me right now and i’ll also check the links for more plants and vines.
sorry, i don’t know what you mean by “full enclosure lights down” but if you can explain i can take a picture for you. i also do not have a lay bin but i’ll see if the store has one for purchase. the humidifier is automatic so it senses when the room is either too high or low so it shuts off or turns on when it needs to. i don’t have a feeder run either but i can definitely find one. as soon as i get home i’ll take out the moss vines and fake plants. thank you!Hi do you have pictures off your full enclosure lights down ? Do you have a lay bin as veiled will lay eggs regardless of being in contact with a male. Are you using your humidifier during the day? Are you using a feeder run for your insects? Imo get rid of the moss vine's and fake plants as veiled are notorious for eating plants and these can cause impaction risks.
noted!Just make sure to either cover up the original soil they’re in in pebbles or repot in organic soil. I do both but sometimes people don’t have the time to repot 15 plants in a day .
A lay bin is just a plastic tub filled with washed out play sand. 8-12” (I might be incorrect on the inches I have all boys.) damp enough for her to hold a tunnel and burry her eggs.sorry, i don’t know what you mean by “full enclosure lights down” but if you can explain i can take a picture for you. i also do not have a lay bin but i’ll see if the store has one for purchase. the humidifier is automatic so it senses when the room is either too high or low so it shuts off or turns on when it needs to. i don’t have a feeder run either but i can definitely find one. as soon as i get home i’ll take out the moss vines and fake plants. thank you!
oh okay, then that is something i can get done for her asap. is there a certain amount of time i should wash the sand?A lay bin is just a plastic tub filled with washed out play sand. 8-12” (I might be incorrect on the inches I have all boys.) damp enough for her to hold a tunnel and burry her eggs.
yes, i can post a picture when i get home. i will say that our cage looks nothing like yours, when we got our cham they recommended us all the wrong things (now i know) so it looks like the perfect place for a cham to get sick and probably not even a livable place for them. they also recommended us substrate and as i’m reading the chameleon academy modules i know that it’s not necessary. so please be easy on us when i post the picture as we are fairly new and not educated enough and are going to change everything as soon as we can!Washed View attachment 308025Play sand from a toy store @torij28 a full picture this is what I mean. Can you also post pictures of your supplements plz
hi, sorry for the late response, i got home late last night! but here’s everything i took pictures of.Don't worry most pet stores do recommend the wrong things that's not your fault the main thing is your here and asking for help and that's all that matters my first enclosure didn't look like this it was by studying and with the help on here I got things sorted we are all on here one another to help each other so do no judging by me
Okay, so all of my feedback and any questions will be in red, and I've attached helpful links and pics below:
- Chameleon info - Veiled Cham, female, 10 months old (maybe) We’ve had her since Oct. 2020
- Handling - We don’t take her out as often because she doesn’t seem to like it, but when we do take her out we keep her out for maybe 10 minutes and we take her outside to climb on some small trees that we have in our backyard. We have been handling her a lot more now that we know how to feed her and such.
- Feeding - What are you feeding your cham? We started off feeding her crickets but then started only feeding her wax worms, but since she’s been sick(?) she hasn’t been eating or drinking. We would feed her 10-12 worms at a time and she wasn’t acting funny or anything until we fed her some super worms and then she completely changed. We weren’t sure of how to feed her for a while but for a few days we have been force feeding her black fly larvae (2 or 3 because that’s all she’ll eat) As previously stated, waxworms should be used as treats only. If her tongue still works, you can pupate the waxworms into moths to feed, though. Crickets, roaches, silkworms, grasshoppers, moths, flies, black soldier fly fly larvae, etc. are all great staples! I've attached both a feeder and gutload list below (use as many ingredients as possible- in the correct ratios- in the feeders' gutload so they're as nutritious as possible!). What do you gutload with, and how do you do it? Do you poke a hole in or kill the black soldier fly larvae beforehand so she can digest them? How do you force-feed her? It can be dangerous as a chameleon's airways are in the front of their mouth. She doesn’t really use her tongue anymore but I do think it’s still working, we weren’t informed about gutloading but I will start doing that now. We also weren’t aware that we were supposed to kill them before feeding her so we will do that too. We watched a video of someone else force feeding their cham on yt so that’s how we’ve been doing it.
- Supplements - We’re newby cham owners so we only have what they gave us when we purchased her, repti calcium and sticky tongue miner-all and we would occasionally dust the worms with the miner-all. You either need to use ReptiCalcium without D3 every feeding with a multivitamin without D3 (but preferably with preformed Vit. A- like Zoo Med Reptivite Without D3) once every two weeks and a phosphorus-free calcium with D3 (like Zoo Med ReptiCalcium With D3) once every two weeks (so pick a day that you’ll use and alternate the supplement on that day each week) or use the Sticky Tongue Farms Miner-All Indoor every feeding and gutload with Sticky Tongue Farms Vit-All (prepared properly). ReptiCalcium and Miner-All are not meant to be used together, so pick one and go with the corresponding schedule and supplements. We’re going to our reptile store tomorrow to get her the right supplements so we can get her on schedule.
- Watering - We have a humidifier that is set to 55% and we mist her cage throughout the day with the exo-terra misting bottle for about 30 seconds to a minute. Before she started acting different, we would see her drink water but now I don’t see her drink any at all, she used to go to the top of her cage when she was thirsty too and we would give her water then. You do not want to be using a humidifier during the day. That combined with her high temps most likely caused her suspected upper respiratory infection if she does have one. You want to mist her enclosure down at least two times a day (around lights on and lights off) for at least 2-5+ minutes or longer each time. Shorter spurts can be used throughout the night, and a late afternoon session can be added if the humidity gets too low. You want the humidity to be 30-50% during the day, preferably on the lower end of that scale. If there is enough ventilation, and it's cold enough (65*F or lower, though you can push it at 67*F), the humidity can get up to 100% during the coldest parts of the night. You can add a dripper during the day so water is accessible if she wants/needs it. Is the humidifier is a cool-mist humidifier? I’ll start misting her cage at on and off time and it is a cool mist humidifier, is that bad for her?
- Fecal Description - Her poop has been the same since we got her, yellowish/white combo and the moist brown. The last time we saw her poop it was slimy, brown yellow/white, but I don’t think she’s pooped recently because I don’t see any fresh droppings. She has also never been tested for parasites. If you can find a fresh fecal sample, getting it tested for parasites would be great! Dropping off another two fresh fecal samples as you find them afterwards will help make sure no parasites were missed. I’ll see what we can find for her most recent droppings!
- History - She used to climb all over her cage and would go into hiding as usual in the fake vines that we have in there but now she is constantly at the bottom of her cage. I also noticed that her grip has weakened and she was squinting for a while but now she is keeping one eye closed and the other one kind of open. She also sleeps at the bottom of her cage or I see her falling slightly. I’ve also noticed that she will only use her back legs and she will just lay on her front legs. She also never used to climb on the side of her cage (screen) but she was doing it for a bit. My boyfriend about a week ago brought her in from taking her outside and she went into her cage and hung upside down with her mouth open for a little bit. I was also watching her the other day and I saw that the eye she keeps closed was bulging out every few seconds but it then stopped, it just looks swollen now compared to her other eye. We also just recently got her the Fluker’s Repta Eye rinse from our local reptile store and have been trying to rinse her eyes out with them. She now keeps her left eye open but her right eye is completely closed. I wouldn't use the Fluker's Repta Rinse. If she chooses to come into the mist while you're misting her cage and try to clean her eye, then great, otherwise don't do anything. Leave the eye for the vet to fix. Okay, we’ll stop using it! Thank you.