PLEASE HELP

[Static13]

Hello everyone, forgive me in advance for the long post. I have a male panther chameleon who is about 1 1/2 years old. I purchased him from a reptile expo from breeders about 2 months ago.

Issues: Initially he was rubbing his eyes on sticks pretty aggressively. I purchased Vitamin A Repashy powder and that has seemed to get much better, he still does this rarely. This also started getting better about the time i removed the red heat bulb. He is very picky about eating, when i first got him he loved dubias/crickets but quickly lost interest in the dubias. Initially I was feeding 5-6 bugs every other day, but now he will only eat a few bugs at a time and some days will eat nothing. Lately his poop has also been runny/liquid brown. I noticed one time he had a very minimal amount of red in his poop, but that has almost seemed to go away. He has shed once since i’ve owned him, and there is still shed stuck to his face. The pooping is also occurring once or more daily.

Supplements and Husbandry: He is in a 24x48 reptibreeze cage, with a 5.0 UVB. Ambient room temp is ~68F. Basking temps are 85-95F. Night temp is ~65-70F. I have a live hibiscus plant with 4 pothos in each corner. He gets calcium without D3 in every feeding, and vitamin A and calcium without D3 once a month. He is also on a regulated 12 hour sleep schedule. On days where he won’t eat I resort to giving him 1-2 superworms so he won’t starve, but I don’t want to teach him being picky gets him treats. He does have a dripper in case he ever wants a drink. I was misting 2-3 times a day, but after the vet visit i’ve been doing more frequently.
I had a cheap hygrometer, but it seemed very unreliable and I’m planning to buy a new, high end one as well as a lamp hanger as soon as possible.
Handling: He has been handled as minimal as possible, but with his issues I’ve taken him to the vet and been taking him out daily for the past ~3 days for soaks/shower steams. He has always been extremely friendly, has never hissed or puffed at me, and will not close his eyes during handling. Sometimes he even comes to me from his cage.

Vet Visit/Previous Advice: The vet confirmed he has no parasites, and they said that the only issue he has is dehydration. I stay in contact with the breeders and in contrast they have told me he was overhydrated.

He acts like normal, which is weird. He shows bright colors and darker when basking. Aside from the issues i’ve described, he acts completely normal, happy, and healthy.

I have wanted a panther my entire life, and I love this little guy more than anything. I have done countless amounts of research and it feels like i’ve done everything I know to do to make sure he is okay. Regardless whether it’s the vet, the breeders, or online research like these forums i end up with a different answer everywhere. I am lost. Will someone please give me some credible information on what I am doing wrong? If any other information is needed please ask. Pictures are below, I replicated his home from the breeders as best as I could and they told me the cage looks good. I am worried about him not eating properly, as well as over moisturizing and causing respiratory problems, and really anything at all. Please understand this is only my 2nd ever chameleon and I have really done everything I know to do.

 

[ERKleRose]

Hi there! There are some corrections that need to be made from the info you’ve provided, but if you could fill out this form in as much detail as possible, that’ll help us help you the most! Also, stop using the Repashy Vit. A immediately, it is way too high in preformed Vit. A. How did the vet rule out parasites?

Chameleon Info:

• Your Chameleon - The species, sex, and age of your chameleon. How long has it been in your care?
• Handling - How often do you handle your chameleon?
• Feeding - What are you feeding your cham? What amount? What is the schedule? How are you gut-loading your feeders?
• Supplements - What brand and type of calcium and vitamin products are you dusting your feeders with and what is the schedule?
• Watering - What kind of watering technique do you use? How often and how long to you mist? Do you see your chameleon drinking?
• Fecal Description - Briefly note colors and consistency from recent droppings. Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites?
• History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you.

Cage Info:

• Cage Type - Describe your cage (Glass, Screen, Combo?) What are the dimensions?
• Lighting - What brand, model, and types of lighting are you using? What is your daily lighting schedule?
• Temperature - What temp range have you created (cage floor to basking spot)? Lowest overnight temp? How do you measure these temps?
• Humidity - What are your humidity levels? How are you creating and maintaining these levels? What do you use to measure humidity?
• Plants - Are you using live plants? If so, what kind?
• Placement - Where is your cage located? Is it near any fans, air vents, or high traffic areas? At what height is the top of the cage relative to your room floor?
• Location - Where are you geographically located?

Current Problem - The current problem you are concerned about.

--------------

Please Note:

1. The more details you provide the better and more accurate help you will receive.
2. Photos can be very helpful.

 

[Static13]

Hi there! There are some corrections that need to be made from the info you’ve provided, but if you could fill out this form in as much detail as possible, that’ll help us help you the most! Also, stop using the Repashy Vit. A immediately, it is way too high in preformed Vit. A. How did the vet rule out parasites?

Chameleon Info:

• Your Chameleon - The species, sex, and age of your chameleon. How long has it been in your care?
• Handling - How often do you handle your chameleon?
• Feeding - What are you feeding your cham? What amount? What is the schedule? How are you gut-loading your feeders?
• Supplements - What brand and type of calcium and vitamin products are you dusting your feeders with and what is the schedule?
• Watering - What kind of watering technique do you use? How often and how long to you mist? Do you see your chameleon drinking?
• Fecal Description - Briefly note colors and consistency from recent droppings. Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites?
• History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you.

Cage Info:

• Cage Type - Describe your cage (Glass, Screen, Combo?) What are the dimensions?
• Lighting - What brand, model, and types of lighting are you using? What is your daily lighting schedule?
• Temperature - What temp range have you created (cage floor to basking spot)? Lowest overnight temp? How do you measure these temps?
• Humidity - What are your humidity levels? How are you creating and maintaining these levels? What do you use to measure humidity?
• Plants - Are you using live plants? If so, what kind?
• Placement - Where is your cage located? Is it near any fans, air vents, or high traffic areas? At what height is the top of the cage relative to your room floor?
• Location - Where are you geographically located?

Current Problem - The current problem you are concerned about.

--------------

Please Note:

1. The more details you provide the better and more accurate help you will receive.
2. Photos can be very helpful.

Most of these questions were already answered but i’ll repeat it for clarification. Panther Chameleon, Male 1 1/2 years old. He’s been in my care for around 2 months. The vet did a fecal test, that is how they know no parasites.

Handle as minimal as possible.

Feeding schedule when he was eating fine was every other day 5-6 crickets and an occasional super worm. The breeders recommend since he wasn’t eating the full amount to cut it down to everyday but in half the amount. Some days he will eat a few bugs, others he will not eat at all. Some days feeding will take hours because I do not leave crickets in the cage. I have just recently started gutloading, i put an apple in for the crickets. Online research said gutloading with carrots does not help with vitamin a because of how they digest it. All insects are from feeders pet supply.

Zoo med repticalcium no d3 for every feeding. Zoo med reptivite with D3 and Rephasy vitamin A once a month. Also how are you certain that repashy vitamin A is bad. Why would the breeders or the vet not tell me this?

My chameleon drinks frequently from a dripper, and I mist 4-5 times a day for 30 seconds to a minute. I noticed only one time he was drinking heavily with a drool string out of his mouth.

Poop started normal when I first got him. Over the past week or so it has been light brown, runny like a consistency of water. The urates are normal from what I can tell. He poops once to multiple times a day. I noticed a very small amount of blood in the stool, but after hydrating his bottom that seems to have went away. I have noticed dark brown, thick stool lately so that issue appears to slowly be getting better. Although it is still runny sometimes. Like mentioned he does not have parasites.

No previous information other than he came from Tree Hugger Chameleons.

24x48 Screen cage.

I have multiple bulbs, but right now I have one 150 watt and a 50 watt in a dual bulb. They are white light, and the UVB is a long horizontal 5.0. So far this combo of heat bulbs has showed the most reliable temp for a basking spot. He wakes up and goes to bed at 11 everyday. Regulated 12 hours.

I measure temps with a digital gun, and 68F at bottom of cage, 75F in middle, and 85-95 in basking spot. Night temps are 65-70.

I had a cheap hygrometer because it is the only one i could find in my small town. It had shown humidity levels of 80-90 but i really don’t trust it. The breeders said if i mist 2 times a day that is okay, but after the vet visit ive been doing more. (As previously mentioned).

One live hibiscus and 4 live pothos.

Somerset, Ky. All issues have been previously discussed. Pictures are provided.

 

[janjan20]

I will put my responses in red.

Most of these questions were already answered but i’ll repeat it for clarification. Panther Chameleon, Male 1 1/2 years old. He’s been in my care for around 2 months. The vet did a fecal test, that is how they know no parasites.

Handle as minimal as possible.

Feeding schedule when he was eating fine was every other day 5-6 crickets and an occasional super worm. The breeders recommend since he wasn’t eating the full amount to cut it down to everyday but in half the amount. Some days he will eat a few bugs, others he will not eat at all. Some days feeding will take hours because I do not leave crickets in the cage. I have just recently started gutloading, i put an apple in for the crickets. Online research said gutloading with carrots does not help with vitamin a because of how they digest it. All insects are from feeders pet supply.
I do agree with @ERKleRose the vitamin A supplement you are using is not the recommended dosage for chameleons. It is fat soluble and stored in fat so it takes a while for it to deplete from the body. He can easily have toxicity if you continue to use it. I would add, it likely helped in the beginning since you saw improvement. Typically as they get older they eat less, he could be going through a phase or it could be related to the weather being colder.


Zoo med repticalcium no d3 for every feeding. Zoo med reptivite with D3 and Rephasy vitamin A once a month. Also how are you certain that repashy vitamin A is bad. Why would the breeders or the vet not tell me this? The reptivite with D3 aid I’m not mistaken also has Vit A along with other vitamins. Everything should be listed on the label. You can also dust with this twice a month. As far as the breeder and vet not saying anything, well they may not know. As many of us here, initially I had no clue about different supplements.

My chameleon drinks frequently from a dripper, and I mist 4-5 times a day for 30 seconds to a minute. I noticed only one time he was drinking heavily with a drool string out of his mouth. If he has a dripper he actively drinks from make sure it’s cleaned thoroughly. If he is parasite free, the diarrhea could be from bacteria. Also, if his urates look good you could just mist twice a day for a couple minutes.

Poop started normal when I first got him. Over the past week or so it has been light brown, runny like a consistency of water. The urates are normal from what I can tell. He poops once to multiple times a day. I noticed a very small amount of blood in the stool, but after hydrating his bottom that seems to have went away. I have noticed dark brown, thick stool lately so that issue appears to slowly be getting better. Although it is still runny sometimes. Like mentioned he does not have parasites.
Next time this happens take a pic and post it so we can see it. Runny stools are of course a sign that something is not right and off balance. The blood could likely be from irritation. Does the poop smell at all?

No previous information other than he came from Tree Hugger Chameleons.

24x48 Screen cage.

I have multiple bulbs, but right now I have one 150 watt and a 50 watt in a dual bulb. They are white light, and the UVB is a long horizontal 5.0. So far this combo of heat bulbs has showed the most reliable temp for a basking spot. He wakes up and goes to bed at 11 everyday. Regulated 12 hours. How far is the basking branch from the uvb and when was the last time it was changed? What is the brand of bulb? Bulbs should be changed every 6 months.

I measure temps with a digital gun, and 68F at bottom of cage, 75F in middle, and 85-95 in basking spot. Night temps are 65-70. I would not let the basking temp get above 85. Especially since you have a 150w and a 50w. I would ditch the 50w and just use the 150w. Just to prevent risk of a burn.

I had a cheap hygrometer because it is the only one i could find in my small town. It had shown humidity levels of 80-90 but i really don’t trust it. The breeders said if i mist 2 times a day that is okay, but after the vet visit ive been doing more. (As previously mentioned). 80-90 is pretty high for day time humidity. You definitely want the cage to dry in between misting sessions. Also, prolonged high humidity with higher temps could potentially put your cham at risk for a respiratory infection.

One live hibiscus and 4 live pothos.

Somerset, Ky. All issues have been previously discussed. Pictures are provided.

The enclosure looks good with the plants and your cham does look healthy and not dehydrated. He looks like he is a healthy weight too.

 

[Static13]

I will put my responses in red.

Most of these questions were already answered but i’ll repeat it for clarification. Panther Chameleon, Male 1 1/2 years old. He’s been in my care for around 2 months. The vet did a fecal test, that is how they know no parasites.

Handle as minimal as possible.

Feeding schedule when he was eating fine was every other day 5-6 crickets and an occasional super worm. The breeders recommend since he wasn’t eating the full amount to cut it down to everyday but in half the amount. Some days he will eat a few bugs, others he will not eat at all. Some days feeding will take hours because I do not leave crickets in the cage. I have just recently started gutloading, i put an apple in for the crickets. Online research said gutloading with carrots does not help with vitamin a because of how they digest it. All insects are from feeders pet supply.
I do agree with @ERKleRose the vitamin A supplement you are using is not the recommended dosage for chameleons. It is fat soluble and stored in fat so it takes a while for it to deplete from the body. He can easily have toxicity if you continue to use it. I would add, it likely helped in the beginning since you saw improvement. Typically as they get older they eat less, he could be going through a phase or it could be related to the weather being colder.


Zoo med repticalcium no d3 for every feeding. Zoo med reptivite with D3 and Rephasy vitamin A once a month. Also how are you certain that repashy vitamin A is bad. Why would the breeders or the vet not tell me this? The reptivite with D3 aid I’m not mistaken also has Vit A along with other vitamins. Everything should be listed on the label. You can also dust with this twice a month. As far as the breeder and vet not saying anything, well they may not know. As many of us here, initially I had no clue about different supplements.

My chameleon drinks frequently from a dripper, and I mist 4-5 times a day for 30 seconds to a minute. I noticed only one time he was drinking heavily with a drool string out of his mouth. If he has a dripper he actively drinks from make sure it’s cleaned thoroughly. If he is parasite free, the diarrhea could be from bacteria. Also, if his urates look good you could just mist twice a day for a couple minutes.

Poop started normal when I first got him. Over the past week or so it has been light brown, runny like a consistency of water. The urates are normal from what I can tell. He poops once to multiple times a day. I noticed a very small amount of blood in the stool, but after hydrating his bottom that seems to have went away. I have noticed dark brown, thick stool lately so that issue appears to slowly be getting better. Although it is still runny sometimes. Like mentioned he does not have parasites.
Next time this happens take a pic and post it so we can see it. Runny stools are of course a sign that something is not right and off balance. The blood could likely be from irritation. Does the poop smell at all?

No previous information other than he came from Tree Hugger Chameleons.

24x48 Screen cage.

I have multiple bulbs, but right now I have one 150 watt and a 50 watt in a dual bulb. They are white light, and the UVB is a long horizontal 5.0. So far this combo of heat bulbs has showed the most reliable temp for a basking spot. He wakes up and goes to bed at 11 everyday. Regulated 12 hours. How far is the basking branch from the uvb and when was the last time it was changed? What is the brand of bulb? Bulbs should be changed every 6 months.

I measure temps with a digital gun, and 68F at bottom of cage, 75F in middle, and 85-95 in basking spot. Night temps are 65-70. I would not let the basking temp get above 85. Especially since you have a 150w and a 50w. I would ditch the 50w and just use the 150w. Just to prevent risk of a burn.

I had a cheap hygrometer because it is the only one i could find in my small town. It had shown humidity levels of 80-90 but i really don’t trust it. The breeders said if i mist 2 times a day that is okay, but after the vet visit ive been doing more. (As previously mentioned). 80-90 is pretty high for day time humidity. You definitely want the cage to dry in between misting sessions. Also, prolonged high humidity with higher temps could potentially put your cham at risk for a respiratory infection.

One live hibiscus and 4 live pothos.

Somerset, Ky. All issues have been previously discussed. Pictures are provided.

The enclosure looks good with the plants and your cham does look healthy and not dehydrated. He looks like he is a healthy weight too.

I have only used the vitamin A once so far, but i will not use it again. His basking branch is about 8 inches away from the bulb. I will attach a picture of recent stool and the bulb brand. I will upload another if next time is runny. I was also wondering, should the heat and UVB bulb be overlapping? The UVB is a reptisun 5.0. Should i continue with the soaks and shower steams for now?

 

[janjan20]

Does the stool have undigested bug parts? Also, I saw you post he was 58g at the vet. For being 1.5 years old he should be double that weight. As for the uvb it should be over the basking branch and the basking bulb can be in front or behind. Keep in mind the uvb light will also produce some heat as well. The distance should be good.
I would not soak anymore, they do not absorb water through their vents. No steam showers either. Warm water to them feels much different than it feels for us. As a rule of thumb, always mist with room temp water. The best way to maintain hydration is to keep humidity up at night by fogging.

If you haven’t already, I would check out the chameleon academy as well.

https://chameleonacademy.com/panther-chameleon-care/