Please share your Triceros Hoehnelii/ Helmeted Cham setups

[Lewtha]

So far I haven’t found any setups for the Hoehnelii and I’m looking for ways to do better/change things up. I’m finding it hard keep the humidity upwards of 70 despite the 10+ varieties of plants in my 2x2x4. I’m asking for your setup’s pics so I can think outside the box of what I’m already doing. This is your time to shine for this species so please do that with vigor! Here are my asks:

May I see your complete setups please? (If you have a screened cage, I’m going to ask you lots of questions starting with how)

Can you include your fogging and misting schedules?

How do you prevent gnats?

What plants are you using in your setups besides pothos? What plants are THRIVING/giving you LIFE in your setups? (Yes, I have more than pothos in mine and yes, I have quite the selection of plants in general for the cage and apartment and am looking for varieties I haven’t seen/considered)

What do you feed yours? I’ve tried mealworms, hornworms, waxworks, and crickets. He only eats crickets . Do not suggest Dubias.

How do you use a Solarmeter? I think mine is reading wrong…

Please don’t post infographics or general info, I have them and use them, however, I’m finding the experience lacking and I’m asking the question “is this the best I can do?” . With VIGOR folx!!! Bring out the Ohhh and ahhhs!! The “why didn’t I think of that?!?!?!”

Also, I realized a flaw in my setup and am looking for a proper drainage setup.

I also have this display case that I would prefer to use…. It’s 2x2x6.5. Can you give me ideas on how to setup drainage in something so low?? What other problems may I encounter in using it (the top will be partially screened)? Biggest issue… I need to build a door for it. I was thinking of building a vinyl screen door. Better solution?

How do you create bottom ventilation where it’s right above the substrate layer instead of the entire substrate layer?

 

[Beman]

Are you trying to get a 70% daytime humidity? Because that would be too high. Take a look at this link and the care image there for this species https://chameleonacademy.com/trioceros-hoehnelii/

See my feedback in bold.





May I see your complete setups please? (If you have a screened cage, I’m going to ask you lots of questions starting with how) The enclosure for this species is going to be very similar to any other chameleon species. branches and plants.

Can you include your fogging and misting schedules? This will depend on your ambient levels. Not a one size fits all approach but most mist in the morning before temps increase and in the evening when temps decrease. Fogging would be done at night only with temps below 67

How do you prevent gnats? They come with cham keeping. They are in the soil. They do cycle out eventually but if you add a new plant with new soil the cycle starts again. There are things like getting a Katchy to put in the room to help reduce their numbers https://www.amazon.com/fruit-fly-tr...ocphy=9030291&hvtargid=pla-435047713827&psc=1

What plants are you using in your setups besides pothos? What plants are THRIVING/giving you LIFE in your setups? (Yes, I have more than pothos in mine and yes, I have quite the selection of plants in general for the cage and apartment and am looking for varieties I haven’t seen/considered) I use pothos, dracaena and hibiscus. Need plant lighting to support plants other than pothos. See image at the bottom.

What do you feed yours? I’ve tried mealworms, hornworms, waxworks, and crickets. He only eats crickets . Do not suggest Dubias. Most chameleons eat what they know. You work in the new feeders along side the ones they know.

How do you use a Solarmeter? I think mine is reading wrong… How is yours reading wrong? All you do it press and hold the button and it will display the UVI if your using the solarmeter 6.5 If it is not the 6.5 or 6.5R they display totally differently and you do need to find the guides to understand the conversion to UVI level.


Also, I realized a flaw in my setup and am looking for a proper drainage setup. How are you installing lighting for the enclosure and where are your screen sections for airflow? Drainage everyone does differently based on their cage. Some have a main drainage hole in the bottom to drain in a bucket. Others wet vac the bottom.

I also have this display case that I would prefer to use…. It’s 2x2x6.5. Can you give me ideas on how to setup drainage in something so low?? What other problems may I encounter in using it (the top will be partially screened)? Biggest issue… I need to build a door for it. I was thinking of building a vinyl screen door. Better solution? You would need the entire top to be screened on this. And you need airflow intakes around the bottom. Since this enclosure is all glass you have to have good air circulation or you will have very stagnant air which can cause respiratory issues. PC fans on the top to help pull up and out air would be beneficial too with how tall this enclosure is. I am sure you could use attachments to the glass to build a door. Do a frame then pic what material you want to use.

How do you create bottom ventilation where it’s right above the substrate layer instead of the entire substrate layer? This would be adding in or cutting in a section above your substrate. With that cage you would want to extend the length and then do it at least 3 inches high so that it pulls enough creating the chimney effect.

 

[Lewtha]

Are you trying to get a 70% daytime humidity? Because that would be too high. Take a look at this link and the care image there for this species https://chameleonacademy.com/trioceros-hoehnelii/

See my feedback in bold.





May I see your complete setups please? (If you have a screened cage, I’m going to ask you lots of questions starting with how) The enclosure for this species is going to be very similar to any other chameleon species. branches and plants.

Can you include your fogging and misting schedules? This will depend on your ambient levels. Not a one size fits all approach but most mist in the morning before temps increase and in the evening when temps decrease. Fogging would be done at night only with temps below 67

How do you prevent gnats? They come with cham keeping. They are in the soil. They do cycle out eventually but if you add a new plant with new soil the cycle starts again. There are things like getting a Katchy to put in the room to help reduce their numbers https://www.amazon.com/fruit-fly-tr...ocphy=9030291&hvtargid=pla-435047713827&psc=1

What plants are you using in your setups besides pothos? What plants are THRIVING/giving you LIFE in your setups? (Yes, I have more than pothos in mine and yes, I have quite the selection of plants in general for the cage and apartment and am looking for varieties I haven’t seen/considered) I use pothos, dracaena and hibiscus. Need plant lighting to support plants other than pothos. See image at the bottom.

What do you feed yours? I’ve tried mealworms, hornworms, waxworks, and crickets. He only eats crickets . Do not suggest Dubias. Most chameleons eat what they know. You work in the new feeders along side the ones they know.

How do you use a Solarmeter? I think mine is reading wrong… How is yours reading wrong? All you do it press and hold the button and it will display the UVI if your using the solarmeter 6.5 If it is not the 6.5 or 6.5R they display totally differently and you do need to find the guides to understand the conversion to UVI level.


Also, I realized a flaw in my setup and am looking for a proper drainage setup. How are you installing lighting for the enclosure and where are your screen sections for airflow? Drainage everyone does differently based on their cage. Some have a main drainage hole in the bottom to drain in a bucket. Others wet vac the bottom.

I also have this display case that I would prefer to use…. It’s 2x2x6.5. Can you give me ideas on how to setup drainage in something so low?? What other problems may I encounter in using it (the top will be partially screened)? Biggest issue… I need to build a door for it. I was thinking of building a vinyl screen door. Better solution? You would need the entire top to be screened on this. And you need airflow intakes around the bottom. Since this enclosure is all glass you have to have good air circulation or you will have very stagnant air which can cause respiratory issues. PC fans on the top to help pull up and out air would be beneficial too with how tall this enclosure is. I am sure you could use attachments to the glass to build a door. Do a frame then pic what material you want to use.

How do you create bottom ventilation where it’s right above the substrate layer instead of the entire substrate layer? This would be adding in or cutting in a section above your substrate. With that cage you would want to extend the length and then do it at least 3 inches high so that it pulls enough creating the chimney effect.


View attachment 322838

Hi Bemean!

Above 70 at night only.

I was asking more beyond the plants and branches as you’ve already critiqued my setup. As in to see the fogger and mister placements. Fogging so it rises from the bottom to the top or vice versa? Those using glass vs screen cages. Drainage systems.

Multiple misting during the day or just one? Fogging every night when temp is below 67?

Cool, thanks for the link!

I’ve been trying but he ignores all worms even when they’re all mixed together.

Solormeter 6.5R - only reads 0.8 under an Arcadia 6% light no matter the distance.

Flaw is with old/current setup up you’ve already seen hence why I’m looking for for new ideas because it leaked all over the cabinet it was on and now it’s falling apart. Don’t wanna wet vac.

…. Skipping.

So create a screen frame about 5 inches high to run the length of the door. Any other options?

I have that infographic, thanks. Have a Drac, it’s not thriving, just existing . Rehabbing a Prayer Plant to throw in there.

Thinking of going Bioactive but can’t wrap my brain about how smh

 

[Beman]

Above 70 at night only. Great just make sure your getting your temp drops at night this species really needs them.

I was asking more beyond the plants and branches as you’ve already critiqued my setup. As in to see the fogger and mister placements. Fogging so it rises from the bottom to the top or vice versa? Those using glass vs screen cages. Drainage systems. So fog falls. It does not rise. So you want it to come into the cage from the top. most of us retrofit a fogger with PVC pipe up to the top of the cage and then have it fall through the top screen. You do not want the pipe sitting directly on the screen or there will be water blocking the flow. So have the pipe sitting at least a half inch off the screen. See images below.

I have my misting heads in the back because I run mine a bit differently then most. As you will see from the pic. I use an extension of tube to have them point straight down hooked to the top screen with a small zip tie. Because I do it this way All my lighting is running in front of it. I do not want fixtures sitting above it or it will heat the tube for the misting nozzle.

Multiple misting during the day or just one? Fogging every night when temp is below 67? So I run a morning and two evening mistings. But I also run my basking fixture a shorter period during the day so that when I mist the cage is cool. Yes fogging only when temps are cool at night or this can create Hot fog which can lead to a respiratory infection.

Cool, thanks for the link!

I’ve been trying but he ignores all worms even when they’re all mixed together. I use a feeder run. Always made it easier for me to transition babies over to new feeders. Giving more of the new feeders than what they are familiar with.

Solormeter 6.5R - only reads 0.8 under an Arcadia 6% light no matter the distance. Are you holding the button and not letting go? What distance are you getting this reading (like its only saying that no matter how close or how far? No reduction as you move away from the fixture? You should see a drastic change but you have to hold the button with the intake for the machine at the top to read the output. If literally it is not changing you may have a faulty solarmeter. Change the battery first if still no change I would return it.

Flaw is with old/current setup up you’ve already seen hence why I’m looking for for new ideas because it leaked all over the cabinet it was on and now it’s falling apart. Don’t wanna wet vac. Then your looking at bio active or retrofitting... Unless you buy a new Tamura designs enclosure that is all set for drainage into a bucket.

…. Skipping.

So create a screen frame about 5 inches high to run the length of the door. Any other options? I have found getting creative comes in handy in this hobby. Depending on your enclosure you really have to modify to make stuff work sometimes. I have a dragon strand that I totally retrofitted to fit my chams needs. lol

I have that infographic, thanks. Have a Drac, it’s not thriving, just existing . Rehabbing a Prayer Plant to throw in there. Dracaena are hit and miss for me.

Thinking of going Bioactive but can’t wrap my brain about how smh This may help you on the how to https://www.chameleonforums.com/blogs/intro-to-bio-activity.2429/

 

[Lewtha]

Above 70 at night only. Great just make sure your getting your temp drops at night this species really needs them.

I was asking more beyond the plants and branches as you’ve already critiqued my setup. As in to see the fogger and mister placements. Fogging so it rises from the bottom to the top or vice versa? Those using glass vs screen cages. Drainage systems. So fog falls. It does not rise. So you want it to come into the cage from the top. most of us retrofit a fogger with PVC pipe up to the top of the cage and then have it fall through the top screen. You do not want the pipe sitting directly on the screen or there will be water blocking the flow. So have the pipe sitting at least a half inch off the screen. See images below.

I have my misting heads in the back because I run mine a bit differently then most. As you will see from the pic. I use an extension of tube to have them point straight down hooked to the top screen with a small zip tie. Because I do it this way All my lighting is running in front of it. I do not want fixtures sitting above it or it will heat the tube for the misting nozzle.

Multiple misting during the day or just one? Fogging every night when temp is below 67? So I run a morning and two evening mistings. But I also run my basking fixture a shorter period during the day so that when I mist the cage is cool. Yes fogging only when temps are cool at night or this can create Hot fog which can lead to a respiratory infection.

Cool, thanks for the link!

I’ve been trying but he ignores all worms even when they’re all mixed together. I use a feeder run. Always made it easier for me to transition babies over to new feeders. Giving more of the new feeders than what they are familiar with.

Solormeter 6.5R - only reads 0.8 under an Arcadia 6% light no matter the distance. Are you holding the button and not letting go? What distance are you getting this reading (like its only saying that no matter how close or how far? No reduction as you move away from the fixture? You should see a drastic change but you have to hold the button with the intake for the machine at the top to read the output. If literally it is not changing you may have a faulty solarmeter. Change the battery first if still no change I would return it.

Flaw is with old/current setup up you’ve already seen hence why I’m looking for for new ideas because it leaked all over the cabinet it was on and now it’s falling apart. Don’t wanna wet vac. Then your looking at bio active or retrofitting... Unless you buy a new Tamura designs enclosure that is all set for drainage into a bucket.

…. Skipping.

So create a screen frame about 5 inches high to run the length of the door. Any other options? I have found getting creative comes in handy in this hobby. Depending on your enclosure you really have to modify to make stuff work sometimes. I have a dragon strand that I totally retrofitted to fit my chams needs. lol

I have that infographic, thanks. Have a Drac, it’s not thriving, just existing . Rehabbing a Prayer Plant to throw in there. Dracaena are hit and miss for me.

Thinking of going Bioactive but can’t wrap my brain about how smh This may help you on the how to https://www.chameleonforums.com/blogs/intro-to-bio-activity.2429/


View attachment 322846

Awesome! Thanks!

Temp drops are happening! Usually have to use freezer packs.

Hmmm, I have my fogger pvc pipe about an inch up tilted at a 45 degree angle (including the little holes) to the cage but I noticed your little holes are parallel. I think I misunderstood the assignment lol

I had my nozzles running along the front and then the light you suggested behind that. Will definitely swap.

Before lights on in the morning and after lights out?

Grumpy old man will rather not eat than eat a worm. He will literally wait until there’s crickets. I’ll figure something out.

Will retry the solarmeter tomorrow. Holding in 5inches away or 10inches away is what I meant.

I looked at the dragon stand drainage tray to late. I originally wanted something that sat tight against the walls as I didn’t want something blocking the little door (which apparently I never use smh).

Thanks! I’m gonna go for it. Will test it on it on a shorter cage first.

Beman, thank you as always! I envy you’re branching skills. I noticed a black cord twined around a branch in the back. What’s that?

 

[Uri]

I set mine up like any other chameleon mine is set up like the standard Jackson’s enclosure I use heat shrink film to cover the sides and back and in terms of humidity I just have the fogger at full blast for a few hours at night and mist a little during the night and I don’t observe mine going to a dripper so I assume I’m doing hydration right I gotta say I can relate to the worm thing from what I hear they are not fans of worms the only work he ever ate was a silk worm and rarely mealworms or super worms roaches fruit flies bean Beatles and crickets are the favorite. Are you using basking lights because those can dry out a cage and they really don’t need it as the uvb lights produce enough. You could try a swamp cooler to get humidity or get pvc enclosure as those maintain humidity very well I’m waiting on the leap enclosures for mine. I can’t help with the ventilation on the display but if you have a drainage layer inside with leca akd all bioactive I’ve never had to drain an enclosure as the plant roots suck up the water and if you have that much water at the bottom you ate overwatering the enclosure. Keep in mind they do well in higher Uv mine is 5-6 at basking and he displays a beautiful baby blue and bright yellow. Also keep the cage away from ac vents as those vents dry out enclosures when they go off if you have screen then you’ll need to either close off sides or bring the room humidity up pretty high

 

[Uri]

Oh and the gnats mine usually eats them he’s small enough to consider them food and will NEVER say no to anything that flies so I’ve never had an issue with fruit flies with him which is nice

 

[Beman]

Awesome! Thanks!

Temp drops are happening! Usually have to use freezer packs.

Hmmm, I have my fogger pvc pipe about an inch up tilted at a 45 degree angle (including the little holes) to the cage but I noticed your little holes are parallel. I think I misunderstood the assignment lol

I had my nozzles running along the front and then the light you suggested behind that. Will definitely swap.

Before lights on in the morning and after lights out?

Grumpy old man will rather not eat than eat a worm. He will literally wait until there’s crickets. I’ll figure something out.

Will retry the solarmeter tomorrow. Holding in 5inches away or 10inches away is what I meant.

I looked at the dragon stand drainage tray to late. I originally wanted something that sat tight against the walls as I didn’t want something blocking the little door (which apparently I never use smh).

Thanks! I’m gonna go for it. Will test it on it on a shorter cage first.

Beman, thank you as always! I envy you’re branching skills. I noticed a black cord twined around a branch in the back. What’s that?

Temp drops are happening! Usually have to use freezer packs. Good.

Hmmm, I have my fogger pvc pipe about an inch up tilted at a 45 degree angle (including the little holes) to the cage but I noticed your little holes are parallel. I think I misunderstood the assignment lol LOL well there are many ways you can creatively do it. Mine is just one way. I used T and L connectors for the 1/2 inch pvc pipe. I had issues prior trying to drill holes in the pipe it would consistently back up the tiny drilled holes with water after 2 hours of fogging. But having it so that the fog drops in from the top can work better because the fog falls anyway. Multiple outlets on the line helps spread the fog out in the cage.

I had my nozzles running along the front and then the light you suggested behind that. Will definitely swap. Again mine is just one way. I have my nozzles set up very differently to do this.

Before lights on in the morning and after lights out? So I run a misting session 15 minutes after the T5 kicks on and then two in the evening once 2 hours before T5's are off and then 15 minutes before last T5 kicks off. I have to do this because Beman will ONLY drink if he sees the water moving. He will not bother if the cage plants are wet. So to do this I then have basking kick on 2 hours after the T5 kicks on in the morning and then basking kicks off 2 1/2 hours before all lights out. Provides the cool down before evening mistings and lets my ambient humidity drop in the morning before the basking turns on. But others will run it the way you are describing. I think you just have to fit this to what works for your chameleon.

Grumpy old man will rather not eat than eat a worm. He will literally wait until there’s crickets. I’ll figure something out. Well crickets are not a horrible feeder at least lol. I mean he could have a superworm addiction which is a hard one to break. Just ensure your guttload is really good.

Will retry the solarmeter tomorrow. Holding in 5inches away or 10inches away is what I meant. Yes, try holding it all distances away while pushing the button. RIght up against the screen under the bulb and down. There should be an extreme difference in the UVI level there to 8 inches away.

I looked at the dragon stand drainage tray to late. I originally wanted something that sat tight against the walls as I didn’t want something blocking the little door (which apparently I never use smh).

Thanks! I’m gonna go for it. Will test it on it on a shorter cage first.

Beman, thank you as always! I envy you’re branching skills. I noticed a black cord twined around a branch in the back. What’s that? So that is the probe for my herpstat basking thermostat. It is hooked in right at the basking branch to keep temps right where I want them. No hotter or cooler.

 

[DocZ]

Here’s what my guys were in

T5 12% UVB with basking areas around 5-6 UVI.
40w incandescent bulbs run on herpstat dimming thermostats
Arcadia LED plant lights

I wasn’t using a mister. I had a dripper running on a reef tank dosing pump a few times per day for a minute or two. Fogging at night. I ran PC fans on a timer during the day to drop the humidity a bit

My guys ate everything. Small Dubias, discoids. Red runner larvae are perfect size and almost too easy to breed. BSFL and flies, small crickets, mealworms, waxworms. Blue/green bottle flies were always a favorite. Bean beetles, flightless fruit flies, etc. They were not too picky. Keep switching up their feeders and they’ll take anything

If you’re getting good nighttime drops, they will be very happy. I don’t think you can drop the temps too low at night (for the chams, may be a bit cold for you). So low 50s is awesome, and they’d be fine with 40s as well occasionally

And fortunately for you @Beman has already came to help. She is very knowledgeable and a treasure around the forum

T. Hoehnelii are awesome chams. Enjoy them!