kev barton
New Member
hi
my chameleons poo colour has gone from black to 100% cream/white colour does this mean anything?
my chameleons poo colour has gone from black to 100% cream/white colour does this mean anything?
poo colour
- Thread starter kev barton
- Start date
summoner12
Avid Member
pics would help.
sandrachameleon
Chameleon Enthusiast
Healthy poop has two sections - the black portion and the white urate.
summoner12
Avid Member
I was rereading your thread and wanted to make sure....
Was your cham pooping 100% black in other deposits? or was it coming out all black then a cream/white portion came out?
Like sandrachameleon said, there are two parts.
How old is your cham? It could have just been a sperm plug or he only went tinkle.
kev barton
New Member
hi
yes first it was black and cream now it is all cream
yes first it was black and cream now it is all cream
Lizardlover
New Member
what is the problem again if there was yellow or orange urates?
kev barton
New Member
hi
well his poo was originally black with white/cream part at the end, now the whole poo is white/cream
just wondering if this means anything
well his poo was originally black with white/cream part at the end, now the whole poo is white/cream
just wondering if this means anything
Lizardlover
New Member
yeah thats fine, as long as the poo doesnt have orange in the urates, i was just wondering what the orange meant
summoner12
Avid Member
kev barton
New Member
whats subtrate???
the temp is around 90 in the basking area
he is eating regularly
the temp is around 90 in the basking area
he is eating regularly
Sang
New Member
have you changed anything in his diet.
the second my guy switched to superworms, which were fed a dry gut load, i noticed his poo got a little dehydrated.
and soon as i got him to drink more water and eat the wet gutloaded crickets, his poo went back to normal.
as long as his next few poos go back to a white urate, i wouldn't be to worried about 1 poo lookin a little dehydrated, you can always give him a shower misting session for 5-10 mins...
*point the shower water against the wall, let the bounce back land on a plant that he is in, never direct the water directly onto him, water should be luke warm or room temp, never hot*
the second my guy switched to superworms, which were fed a dry gut load, i noticed his poo got a little dehydrated.
and soon as i got him to drink more water and eat the wet gutloaded crickets, his poo went back to normal.
as long as his next few poos go back to a white urate, i wouldn't be to worried about 1 poo lookin a little dehydrated, you can always give him a shower misting session for 5-10 mins...
*point the shower water against the wall, let the bounce back land on a plant that he is in, never direct the water directly onto him, water should be luke warm or room temp, never hot*
kev barton
New Member
oh ok re subtrate i have oyster shells which were recommended by my supplier
i haven't really changed diet he is on locusts and crickets dry gutloaded
i haven't really changed diet he is on locusts and crickets dry gutloaded
MutantHybrid
New Member
The only reasons I would think anyone would suggest oyster shells would be to sell you something and to provide calcium. Neither reason sounds reasonable to me. Oyster shells cannot be ground down in chameleon guts like chickens do with their gizzards. If small enough, most of the shell would be passed, however, oyster shell is also very sharp. It can cut like a razor if it is chipped in just the right angle, causing internal damage and/or blockage if ingested by an animal that was never intended to eat oysters shells and all.
The main point is, no substrate, nothing at all that could be swallowed by a chameleon should be allowed in the cage unless it is a prey item.
If hydrated appropriately your chameleon should have about 1/4 of the dropping colored pure white and 3/4 dark brown with the entire dropping coated in mucus that will dry in a few hours. You chameleon should have a daily 24 hour cycle and excrete at about the same time every day.
The main point is, no substrate, nothing at all that could be swallowed by a chameleon should be allowed in the cage unless it is a prey item.
If hydrated appropriately your chameleon should have about 1/4 of the dropping colored pure white and 3/4 dark brown with the entire dropping coated in mucus that will dry in a few hours. You chameleon should have a daily 24 hour cycle and excrete at about the same time every day.
