Probe Thermostat Heat Lamp

[naterowley]

See how it works there for you. Note the bamboo branches can splinter and be very slick to hold onto.

That's the last of the previous cage I need to remove, the issue I'm having with that is that I'll have to cut them out of the screen, they are glue and screwed in to most places through the screen, I tried removing one and ripped the screen. Good catch on that, it drives me crazy

 

[Beman]

That's the last of the previous cage I need to remove, the issue I'm having with that is that I'll have to cut them out of the screen, they are glue and screwed in to most places through the screen, I tried removing one and ripped the screen. Good catch on that, it drives me crazy

Ugg that sucks... Yeah if they are that hooked in then you would probably cause a lot of damage to the cage... Maybe a new cage is in your future. lol. I have eagle eyes when it comes to images

 

[BryanP]

We'll just agree to disagree on some points.

Ideally you would have a nice steady heat being provided by a nice steady light. The PID will do a good job holding setpoint regardless of wattage of bulb BUT I've watched my cham daily through remote cams for the last 3 months with this unit and can without a doubt tell you he knows when it's on vs when it's not based on the light he sees not the heat he feels. With a high enough wattage bulb the setpoint would be reached and the light would be too dim or even out for a length of time that isn't acceptable while it drops down to a point it's calling for heat again. It's not about the providing any visible light per se other than faking the sun light so that the cham comes under the heat. If the light is off or constantly dim mine doesn't bother. I actually started with a 75w bulb but ended up with a 40w and I'm in IL so it's definitely cold here right now. YMMV and your situation might require a different wattage bulb BUT I'd personally start at the low end of the scale and provide the source that provides me the optimal amount of steady heat at the desired setpoint and at the brightest light possible. You're going to get some fluctuation, just the nature of the animal, but you absolutely can tailor it so it doesn't do it much based on the wattage of the bulb.

So in some ways we're saying the same thing but my opinion is I'd rather the bulb be maintaining as much light as possible while maintaining said temp.

Again, was and is my opinion and I stand by it based on my observations.

OK I'll agree with you're application in thr sense that you're priority is light output (heat as well obviously) but a well designed and tuned PID loop (not saying the reptizoo one is this) IN THEORY should eventually reach near steady state. You always have some dimming and brightening but it should be very minimal if it's tuned right.

And for anyone who is like "WTF is a PID?!?"

This is an example of a PID loop. Time would be the same but on the vertical axis it would be temperature (controlled by wattage output)

 

[regal81455]

OK I'll agree with you're application in thr sense that you're priority is light output (heat as well obviously) but a well designed and tuned PID loop (not saying the reptizoo one is this) IN THEORY should eventually reach near steady state. You always have some dimming and brightening but it should be very minimal if it's tuned right.

And for anyone who is like "WTF is a PID?!?"

This is an example of a PID loop. Time would be the same but on the vertical axis it would be temperature (controlled by wattage output) View attachment 349034

I wholeheartedly agree.

If my only concern was temp I'd absolutely recommend a higher watt bulb or maybe a CHE. When I used PIDs for powdercoating ovens it was always "the bigger the element the better" because our only goal was to hit temp and hit it as quick as possible.

With the chams, I think we're trying to hit a nice balance of light output ( to draw them in ) and steady warmth ( as required by their biology ). Again, all just my opinions.