Remys Vet Visit

[Asour89]

Took Remy to have a checkup and a fecal done today. The vet said that she looks amazing and is very healthy. She weighs 46 grams. I was told (on here) that I need to have her basking area at about 80-ish. The vet told me that her basking area should be at 100. That is the ideal temp they would like it to stay at to keep her healthy. I asked about the egg concerns and if it’s too hot, she may make too many infertile eggs... she said that as long as she is healthy and getting her steady calcium that there will be no worries.

What are your opinions on the matter? I have always been a by the book, what the dr/vet says goes. & I do believe that she knows her stuff. NC State is one of the top vet schools in our country & she has a great reputation on all reptiles.

I am just over all very happy and relieved to know that I am doing a great job with her in my 6 months I’ve had her.

(she was stressed from our trip in the photo)

 

[jannb]

I recommend keeping her basking spot around 83 or 84 and cut back on her food.
Do you have a lay bin for her? She looks like she might have eggs now.

Where are you located? I might be able to recommend a vet with more chameleon experience.

 

[Asour89]

I recommend keeping her basking spot around 83 or 84 and cut back on her food.
Do you have a lay bin for her? She looks like she might have eggs now.

Where are you located? I might be able to recommend a vet with more chameleon experience.

We literally just got home from the vet, lol. She’s not got eggs and she is a very healthy girl. My vet says her basking area needs to be at 100. That’s what I was asking were opinions on her expertise advice. She is a graduate from NC States vet school & is has a great reputation for reptiles. I live in Raleigh. We have NC state vet school, then a couple more side vets. Only a handful see reptiles.

 

[nightanole]

iddy biddy + 100f = cook

Id keep your current setup. Maybe raise to 90-95f this time next year.

There is a reason why you never see basking lights in baby breeder cages. And girls generally want to be on the cooler side. I assume the girls just bake/bask longer, vs the males that get warm quickly, then go on patrol, then come back and heat up again, repeat


50g is not going to have eggs any time soon....

 

[Asour89]

iddy biddy + 100f = cook

Id keep your current setup. Maybe raise to 90-95f this time next year.


50g is not going to have eggs any time soon....

I normally try to keep it around 85-90 for her. Her cage is about 4 feet long, so she has plenty of room to have levels of temps that suit her. The vet said she is at a good size for her age, of course there like people and vary.

 

[nightanole]

I normally try to keep it around 85-90 for her. Her cage is about 4 feet long, so she has plenty of room to have levels of temps that suit her. The vet said she is at a good size for her age, of course there like people and vary.

50g is a good weight, its just no where near "adult" so you should not have to worry about eggs. 85-90 is great. For that small i would not even use a flood light, just a good old round house bulb that can keep and area 85-90 (maybe even 95 since you have a huge cage).


Then again if jannb says you can have eggs at 50g, who am i to argue.

 

[Asour89]

50g is a good weight, its just no where near "adult" so you should not have to worry about eggs. 85-90 is great. For that small i would not even use a flood light, just a good old round house bulb that can keep and area 85-90 (maybe even 95 since you have a huge cage).


Then again if jannb says you can have eggs at 50g, who am i to argue.

Oh, I gotcha. I had been told she looked gravid before, but from having her since a wee little baby, I always thought they were just her stress or not happy colors. She needed a fecal done as well, so I got a vet appt as soon as I was told she may be gravid. The thought of egg laying and complications I’ve read about on here and Other places stresssses me out. I still consider her a teen, lol. so for me to find out that I actually do know my cham like I thought, was such a huge relief. I’ve had people say, oh egg laying will be an easy process and a breeze. I don’t think that is true until you have actually gone through the process first hand. So until then, I will stay by the book and listen to my vet. I have a lot invested in my little ones.

 

[Beman]

100 degrees seems nuts to me... Granted I have no female experience. My male will start gapping if he is even slightly over 89 degrees. Females are supposed to be kept at a lower temp of 85 where the males should be somewhere between 90-95. I would think 100 as said would basically bake the poor thing. I would go with what Jann said with temps. She keeps females and keeps temps low and food intake lower so that her females stay healthier and produce many less eggs.

 

[Asour89]

100 degrees seems nuts to me... Granted I have no female experience. My male will start gapping if he is even slightly over 89 degrees. Females are supposed to be kept at a lower temp of 85 where the males should be somewhere between 90-95. I would think 100 as said would basically bake the poor thing. I would go with what Jann said with temps. She keeps females and keeps temps low and food intake lower so that her females stay healthier and produce many less eggs.

I did lower her food intake at about 6 months. I feed her every other day now, instead of daily. I heard that impacted the egg production as well. I am going to try to keep the basking area at about 85-90. I feel like that is a fair medium. I don’t think it will hurt her. Just wanna maintain the healthy.

 

[nightanole]

100 degrees seems nuts to me... Granted I have no female experience. My male will start gapping if he is even slightly over 89 degrees. Females are supposed to be kept at a lower temp of 85 where the males should be somewhere between 90-95. I would think 100 as said would basically bake the poor thing. I would go with what Jann said with temps. She keeps females and keeps temps low and food intake lower so that her females stay healthier and produce many less eggs.

Yea its kinda why i always ask "male please" when im ordering. With girls its pretty much a race to become an adult and lay your eggs before the dry season starts. Its why they take soooo much longer to incubate vs beardies. And unfortunately if you over feed a growing girl(not sure about adults) she will become sexually mature before she is fully grown. Its kinda like "hey there is ample food around, lets grow some eggs" vs "i have to become adult size as quickly as possible".

Tegus the race is even worse. Over feed a growing girl and not only may she not hibernate (they hibernate over 6 month a year, so have $$$ on heating and food) but she will reach adult "size" on the outside, but the reproductive tract may end up stretched, and end up with a sterile tegu.

 

[Beman]

Yea its kinda why i always ask "male please" when im ordering. With girls its pretty much a race to become an adult and lay your eggs before the dry season starts. Its why they take soooo much longer to incubate vs beardies. And unfortunately if you over feed a growing girl(not sure about adults) she will become sexually mature before she is fully grown. Its kinda like "hey there is ample food around, lets grow some eggs" vs "i have to become adult size as quickly as possible".

Yeah I love the beauty of the females but dang they would stress me out too much. I am a helicopter mom as is.

 

[Asour89]

Yea its kinda why i always ask "male please" when im ordering. With girls its pretty much a race to become an adult and lay your eggs before the dry season starts. Its why they take soooo much longer to incubate vs beardies. And unfortunately if you over feed a growing girl(not sure about adults) she will become sexually mature before she is fully grown. Its kinda like "hey there is ample food around, lets grow some eggs" vs "i have to become adult size as quickly as possible".

I am in nooooo rush for the egg laying. I am glad that I didn’t ever over feed her. Thank goodness for these forums.

 

[MrsM]

I wouldn’t go over low 90s unless they were fighting a RI.
But then I’m no vet and have significantly less experience than many on here.

 

[jannb]

We literally just got home from the vet, lol. She’s not got eggs and she is a very healthy girl. My vet says her basking area needs to be at 100. That’s what I was asking were opinions on her expertise advice. She is a graduate from NC States vet school & is has a great reputation for reptiles. I live in Raleigh. We have NC state vet school, then a couple more side vets. Only a handful see reptiles.

Maybe it’s just the picture or her colors that made me think she had eggs. I would still recommend having a laying been for her. Lower temps and less food means less clutches, fewer eggs and a longer life. I know a vet in Raleigh that has allot of reptiles and he did his internship here in the Keys with my vet, Dr. Douglas Mader. His name is Bradley Waffa.

https://petrepair.com/about/team/

A friend of mine uses this vet in Raleigh for her iguanas;

Christine Eckermann-Ross
Daniel Johnson
Stacey Leonatti
Avian and Exotic Animal Care
http://avianandexotic.com
8711 Fidelity Blvd.
Raleigh, NC 27617-4805
919-844-9166

 

[Asour89]

Maybe it’s just the picture or her colors that made me think she had eggs. I would still recommend having a laying been for her. Lower temps and less food means less clutches, fewer eggs and a longer life. I know a vet in Raleigh that has allot of reptiles and he did his internship here in the Keys with my vet, Dr. Douglas Mader. His name is Bradley Waffa.

https://petrepair.com/about/team/

A friend of mine uses this vet in Raleigh for her iguanas;

Christine Eckermann-Ross
Daniel Johnson
Stacey Leonatti
Avian and Exotic Animal Care
http://avianandexotic.com
8711 Fidelity Blvd.
Raleigh, NC 27617-4805
919-844-9166

I have heard of that one. I have had a laybin set up for about a month to be on the safe side. Thanks for the advice!