Self-refill heated sealed MistKing resovior

[Brodybreaux25]

My reservoir is a SEALED 15gal clear tank with an aquarium heater in it, stays at 93 degrees 24/7. I also installed a toilet fill valve inside of the sealed reservoir so I do not have to keep refilling the tank, it does it on its own. I have an in-line water filter before the toilet valve but it’s nothing spectacular. I’ve been running it this way for about 4 months and so far I haven’t had any kind of bacteria problems but I realize 4 months may not be enough time for these kinds of problems to manifest. My question is dose me operating my water reservoir this way create an elevated risk of bacteria build up?

Keep in mind the entire system was sterilized and sealed when I installed it. I do have a way of introducing iodine, or other sterilant, into the reservoir without breaking the main seal but so far it is untested. The water is just as clear as the day I set it up, but I doubt that means too much when it comes to bacteria…


Either way I would like to test the water coming out of my MistKing vs my regular tap water, can anyone recommend what to look for or a test kit to buy?

If I do find that I have elevated bacteria levels would a powerful UV light aquarium filter knock out the bacteria?

 

[Virgil1972]

I installed a system that tests water for different diseases not to long ago. It would take samples from the main water supply and if there was anything there it would drain the system and run chlorine through. Im not sure what is cost but it was probably around $50,000. I would not recommend it for you. I would think that if you run some kind of cleaner through every so often to keep it clean that would be ok.

 

[Brodybreaux25]

Yeah. I was a hinking something $100 or less just to see what is happening. Curiosity mostly....

 

[Brodybreaux25]

Yeah. I was a hinking something $100 or less just to see what is happening. Curiosity mostly....

Something more like high school experiment level.

 

[ChamLB]

Don't know about the bacterial testing question but the toilet valve idea is brilliant.
We do clean out our reservouir periodically.

 

[Brodybreaux25]

Don't know about the bacterial testing question but the toilet valve idea is brilliant.
We do clean out our reservouir periodically.

Thank you, this site has helped me endlessly when it comes to learning Cham husbandry, it's nice to be able to give a little bit back.

When I first started playing with this idea most products I found cost $25 or more and most had shakey reviews. Toilet valve cost $8 and we all know how reliable they are!

 

[ChamLB]

I love the ingenuity of an 8$ solution.

 

[jamest0o0]

I did this with RO/DI for my nano reef auto top offs, and saltwater changes. I'd like to see your set up if you could post a pic. I want to do this when I get my house.

To add though, personally I wouldn't bother heating MK water, it won't do much, but possibly add bacteria. The mist helps will help cool them off, if they're too cold they always have a basking light JMO

 

[Angelwolf]

Ya. I would also say no heater. That just turns the thing into an incubator. You could easily enough run an in-line UV sterilizer made for a reef aquarium. Just look them up at www.drsfostersmith.com

 

[Brodybreaux25]

I was talking with someone on here the other day about the heater, they do make very little difference when it's all said and done...

I'll post a pic of my set up tonight.

 

[jamest0o0]

Thanks, I've used UV sterilizer bback in the day. The general consensus was that they helped water clarity, but had no guarantees as far as killing everything. That may have changed though?

 

[Brodybreaux25]

Thanks, I've used UV sterilizer bback in the day. The general consensus was that they helped water clarity, but had no guarantees as far as killing everything. That may have changed though?

DIY Self-Refilling MistKing Reservoir for $8


I’ve had a few people ask me to explain how I built a self-refilling MistKing reservoir for just $8.


You will have to splice a “T” into whatever kind of plumbing system you have to work with. Then run your line to where ever you want to set up your reservoir. Here you have a choice to make, you can either put a male/female threaded fitting on the reservoir end of your new line or you can install a valve. I strongly recommend the valve, it will make any maintenance you have to do much easier. Once you have installed your choice of fitting you will need a hose to connect your waterline to the inlet of your toilet valve. They cost a bit more but I only use stainless steel braided flex hoses in my house, they are much stronger than a rubber one. Rubber hoses can be easily damaged but will still work here. Install your hose on your new line.


To install the toilet valve you will have to build a small platform for your reservoir to sit on top of for two reasons. The first is your tank will have fittings poking out of the bottom of it. The second is that your reservoir must be installed above your pump for it to work correctly. Your platform can be as simple as using a stack of 2x4s or bricks. See attached pics.


Once built, get a drill bit big enough to drill a hole in the reservoirs floor dead center. The hole you drill should be just barely large enough to stick the water inlet side of the toilet valve through the bottom. It should be a tight fit. If you are using a plastic tote as I have be sure to drill VERY slowly with minimal pressure. If you force it I guarantee you will crack your reservoir. From the inside of your reservoir poke the threads through the hole you drilled in the bottom. Don’t forget to install the toilet valve’s gasket inside the tank before you tighten the nut that secures the valve to the bottom of your reservoir. Connect the other end of your hose to the inlet of your toilet valve that is now sticking out of the floor of your reservoir.


Now you can install the MistKing bulkhead and make the connection from your reservoir to your MistKing pump.


Parts list:

· Pipes and fittings

· Valve (if using one)

· Hose

· Toilet valve

· Drill with Bit

· Tank (large enough that the toilet valve has clearance on all sides. If your valve gets hung up in the open position your tank will overflow!)


Tip - If any of the line you will be installing will be exposed to freezing temps in the winter I strongly recommend using PEX pipe, not PVC or metal. PEX has two BIG advantages over other materials. The first is that it will expand when in cold service versus busting like PVC will, your line may freeze but it will not rupture on you! The second is that PEX pipe is VERY flexible, you can pretty much snake this pipe into the tightest of spaces, removing the need to install a bunch of 90s like you would have to do with PVC or metal pipe.

I'm pretty sure most people can figure out how to set something like this on their own, but I know other people, by no fault of their own, need help along the way. If you have any suggestions or if any of this is confusing your feedback is welcome!

 

[jamest0o0]

Thank you for the post, I'm going to save this!