shaking and trembling cham when climbing?

i believe i have a reptisun uv cpmact bulb like this ....... http://www.bestpetsuppliesguide.com/zoo-med-reptisun-reptisun-5-0-compact-uv-fluorescent-bulbs/


as you can see with my lighting ....

Hi, I did not know you had the Uv coil bulb, too, was under the impression, that you had, just the sunglow+basking bulb.

Most people on here say to change the coil bulb anyway as they have caused eye issues with certain brands, Also how old is it as they do expire over time,
 
Hi, I did not know you had the Uv coil bulb, too, was under the impression, that you had, just the sunglow+basking bulb.

Most people on here say to change the coil bulb anyway as they have caused eye issues with certain brands, Also how old is it as they do expire over time,

i have had it since i had Spot... so i would say around 6 months... am i due a replacement ?

also i just want to say thank you to everyone who has helped me. very much appreciated
 
i have had it since i had Spot... so i would say around 6 months... am i due a replacement ?

also i just want to say thank you to everyone who has helped me. very much appreciated

Not to sure on the coil bulbs. but I know the Linear, some people change at 6months to be safe,
 
coil bulbs generally arent recommended as their UV output and penetration often less than they claim. Also, they tend to lose efficacy quickly and can cause eye issues.

We change our UV tubes every 6-9 months to be sure on their efficacy :)
 
coil bulbs generally arent recommended as their UV output and penetration often less than they claim. Also, they tend to lose efficacy quickly and can cause eye issues.

We change our UV tubes every 6-9 months to be sure on their efficacy :)

i re-phrase ..... a tube lol
 
Here is pic of the 3 different supplements I use and some dusted feeders to give you an idea of the amount to use. I use a little spoon to make sure I don't add to much powder in with the feeders. The Rep Cal brands are very strong as far as the amount of vitamin (mg or IU/KG) so make sure you don't overdo it.
See pic #4.

I use the Miner-All (outdoor has no D3) every feeding except on Fridays.

I use the other 2 on alternating Fridays. Cal W/D3 one Friday then the next Friday is Herptivite. Then I repeat.

The other 2 pics are some lightly dusted crickets. This is usually the "look" I try to achieve to make sure my cham is getting enough but not too much.

The last pic is of a cricket that has waaayy to much powder on it; often times referred to as "ghosted."

Hope this helps you with an idea of supplements.
 

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Here is pic of the 3 different supplements I use and some dusted feeders to give you an idea of the amount to use. I use a little spoon to make sure I don't add to much powder in with the feeders. The Rep Cal brands are very strong as far as the amount of vitamin (mg or IU/KG) so make sure you don't overdo it.
See pic #4.

I use the Miner-All (outdoor has no D3) every feeding except on Fridays.

I use the other 2 on alternating Fridays. Cal W/D3 one Friday then the next Friday is Herptivite. Then I repeat.

The other 2 pics are some lightly dusted crickets. This is usually the "look" I try to achieve to make sure my cham is getting enough but not too much.

The last pic is of a cricket that has waaayy to much powder on it; often times referred to as "ghosted."

Hope this helps you with an idea of supplements.

thanks silkyslim i shall use your images as a good reference for the future :)
 
Hi, what everyone is mentioned are right, def. MBD, hope in early stage. One thing I haven't seen anyone to suggest about your setup, I think 23 degrees is way too cold for a yemen chameleon, they need around 30~32 degrees at the basking area. Do you use any thermostat to controll the temperature?
 
Hi, what everyone is mentioned are right, def. MBD, hope in early stage. One thing I haven't seen anyone to suggest about your setup, I think 23 degrees is way too cold for a yemen chameleon, they need around 30~32 degrees at the basking area. Do you use any thermostat to controll the temperature?

ive herd people say that around the 30 mark is a little too high...

but yes i do have a thermostat to help control the temperature... do you suggest i raise it ?

i also have a ceramic bulb now, that i have placed ontop of the cage to generate heat throughout the night.... because i use a timer switch for the UV/Basking bulb to simulate a good dosage of light and heat... now the weather in my country is getting colder... the room temperature is dropping at night time so i have the ceramic bulb to keep the edge off which is on a thermostat.... but dont worry the bulb is way out of reach of my cham to get to...
 
Exposure to proper UVB, appropriate temperatures, supplements, a supply of well-fed/gutloaded insects, water and an appropriate cage set-up are all important for the well-being of your chameleon.

Appropriate cage temperatures aid in digestion and thus play a part indirectly in nutrient absorption. For young veiled chameleons I keep the basking temperature in the low 80's. Their small bodies cool and heat and dehydrate more quickly than adults do. For a basking light you can use a regular incandescent household bulb in a domed hood...but I use a double fluorescent fixture that has one regular fluorescent light in and one Reptisun 5.0 UVB tube light since that puts the temperature in the right range.

Exposure to UVB from either direct sunlight or a proper UVB light allows the chameleon to produce D3 so that it can use the calcium in its system to make/keep the bones strong and be used in other systems in the chameleon as well. The UVB should not pass through glass or plastic no matter whether its from the sun or the UVB light. The most often recommended UVB light is the long linear fluorescent Repti-sun 5.0 tube light that I mentioned above. Some of the compacts, spirals and tube lights have caused health issues, but so far there have been no bad reports against this one.

Since many of the feeder insects have a poor ratio of calcium to phosphorus in them, its important to dust the insects before you feed them to the chameleon with a phos.-free calcium powder to help make up for it.

If you dust twice a month with a phos.-free calcium/D3 powder it will ensure that your chameleon gets some D3 without overdoing it. It leaves the chameleon to produce the rest of what it needs through its exposure to the UVB light. (Some UVB lights have been known to cause health issues, so the most often recommended one is the long linear fluorescent Repti-sun 5.0 tube light.) D3 from supplements can build up in the system but D3 produced from exposure to UVB shouldn't as long as the chameleon can move in and out of it.

Dusting twice a month with a vitamin powder that contains a beta carotene (prOformed) source of vitamin A will ensure that the chameleon gets some vitamins without the danger of overdosing the vitamin A. PrEformed sources of vitamin A can build up in the system and may prevent the D3 from doing its job and push the chameleon towards MBD. However, there is controversy as to whether all/any chameleons can convert the beta carotene and so some people give some prEformed vitamin A once in a while.

Gutloading/feeding the insects well helps to provide what the chameleon needs....so its important too. I gutload crickets, roaches, locusts, superworms, etc. with an assortment of greens (dandelions, kale, collards, endive, escarole, mustard greens, etc.) and veggies (carrots, squash, sweet potato, sweet red pepper, zucchini, etc.)

Calcium, phos., D3 and vitamin A are important players in bone health and other systems in the chameleon (muscles, etc.) and they need to be in balance. When trying to balance them, you need to look at the supplements, what you feed the insects and what you feed the chameleon.

If a chameleon has MBD then you first have to correct the imbalance and then keep it balanced. The fastest way to correct it is for a vet to give it injections of calcium until the blood calcium levels are high enough that the chameleon can be given a shot of calcitonin to draw the calcium rapidly back into the bones.

Here are some good sites for you to read...
http://chameleonnews.com/07FebWheelock.html
http://web.archive.org/web/200605020...Vitamin.A.html
http://web.archive.org/web/200604210...d.Calcium.html
http://www.uvguide.co.uk/
http://raisingkittytheveiledchameleon.blogspot.com/
http://web.archive.org/web/200601140...ww.adcham.com/
Reply With Quote
 
Exposure to proper UVB, appropriate temperatures, supplements, a supply of well-fed/gutloaded insects, water and an appropriate cage set-up are all important for the well-being of your chameleon.

Appropriate cage temperatures aid in digestion and thus play a part indirectly in nutrient absorption. For young veiled chameleons I keep the basking temperature in the low 80's. Their small bodies cool and heat and dehydrate more quickly than adults do. For a basking light you can use a regular incandescent household bulb in a domed hood...but I use a double fluorescent fixture that has one regular fluorescent light in and one Reptisun 5.0 UVB tube light since that puts the temperature in the right range.

Exposure to UVB from either direct sunlight or a proper UVB light allows the chameleon to produce D3 so that it can use the calcium in its system to make/keep the bones strong and be used in other systems in the chameleon as well. The UVB should not pass through glass or plastic no matter whether its from the sun or the UVB light. The most often recommended UVB light is the long linear fluorescent Repti-sun 5.0 tube light that I mentioned above. Some of the compacts, spirals and tube lights have caused health issues, but so far there have been no bad reports against this one.

Since many of the feeder insects have a poor ratio of calcium to phosphorus in them, its important to dust the insects before you feed them to the chameleon with a phos.-free calcium powder to help make up for it.

If you dust twice a month with a phos.-free calcium/D3 powder it will ensure that your chameleon gets some D3 without overdoing it. It leaves the chameleon to produce the rest of what it needs through its exposure to the UVB light. (Some UVB lights have been known to cause health issues, so the most often recommended one is the long linear fluorescent Repti-sun 5.0 tube light.) D3 from supplements can build up in the system but D3 produced from exposure to UVB shouldn't as long as the chameleon can move in and out of it.

Dusting twice a month with a vitamin powder that contains a beta carotene (prOformed) source of vitamin A will ensure that the chameleon gets some vitamins without the danger of overdosing the vitamin A. PrEformed sources of vitamin A can build up in the system and may prevent the D3 from doing its job and push the chameleon towards MBD. However, there is controversy as to whether all/any chameleons can convert the beta carotene and so some people give some prEformed vitamin A once in a while.

Gutloading/feeding the insects well helps to provide what the chameleon needs....so its important too. I gutload crickets, roaches, locusts, superworms, etc. with an assortment of greens (dandelions, kale, collards, endive, escarole, mustard greens, etc.) and veggies (carrots, squash, sweet potato, sweet red pepper, zucchini, etc.)

Calcium, phos., D3 and vitamin A are important players in bone health and other systems in the chameleon (muscles, etc.) and they need to be in balance. When trying to balance them, you need to look at the supplements, what you feed the insects and what you feed the chameleon.

If a chameleon has MBD then you first have to correct the imbalance and then keep it balanced. The fastest way to correct it is for a vet to give it injections of calcium until the blood calcium levels are high enough that the chameleon can be given a shot of calcitonin to draw the calcium rapidly back into the bones.

Here are some good sites for you to read...
http://chameleonnews.com/07FebWheelock.html
http://web.archive.org/web/200605020...Vitamin.A.html
http://web.archive.org/web/200604210...d.Calcium.html
http://www.uvguide.co.uk/
http://raisingkittytheveiledchameleon.blogspot.com/
http://web.archive.org/web/200601140...ww.adcham.com/
 
thank you everyone for your help... i have managed to get him to the vets today although the weather is very bad here..... and they have given him a small calcium injection.... the next thing now is to await the new reptisun bulb and the calcium with D3 solution they have ordered for me

thank you everyone again
 
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