Shopping list review

[ChameLeon_]

Allright so I'm about to start buying and building cage for my very first chameleon. I've done really big research and i think i know what i need to know now. I've formed a shopping list of items I'll need but I'm not sure whether i got everything and everything is right etc.. is anyone here by any chance willing to go through it with me? Preferably through chat or something different so we don't spam it here. Thank you in advance!

 

[kinyonga]

I'm sure lots of people will help you here!!

 

[ChameLeon_]

If anyone has something to say to my shopping list and husbandry here as well, i will post my list and recap here as well!

Allright so the cage itself will be made out of wood that will be treated with boat wood sealant thats water resistant and will vent a lot before i place chameleon in there. Living area will be about 55x55x120cm, plus a cabinet underneath the living area for food water etc.. Basking spot will be a bit higher than eye level. 2 sides of cage should be solid and will be placed in a corner of the room, and 2 sides and top will be screen. The screen i want to use is this one, since aluminium black ones are unavailable here, and this should be made of HDPE which should keep even a cat out. Maybe only top will be some aluminum one even if silver so it doesnt melt. Top part with lights will be held by 2 solid sides, aluminum L brackets on all 4 corners and a PVC pipe going through the middle serving as a support for top part and as a support to branches as well.

For lights, they will be on timer (12 on / 12 off cycle), and I plan to go with this light and use it as a hood for this UVB light bulb. I cannot fit longer UVB, and im still unsure whether to go with this or a stronger UVB150 one. For heat, i plan to use this dome that is about 15cm wide, with a basic clear bulb of 75W and with a dimmer plugged into it to adjust the heat. I'm also considering using a flood light for plants if it will be too dim, maybe something like this?

For watering and draining the excess water, i got a misting set with 2 nozzles. I plan to mist the cage 2 times a day, before lights go on and before they go off, for about 3 minutes each time. During day, i'm considering a DIY dripper on top. As for draining the water, i want to make the bottom a bit tilted so the water goes to one corner, drill hole there and drain it to a bucket through a small pvc pipe. I'm also considering adding some large rocks on bottom for esthetics? The bottom will be a small bowl shape made of wood as well and sealed with aquarium silicone sealant.

For food i want to start a dubia roach colony and provide some variety here and there with treats. They will be kept in 2 boxes, one larger heated one for breeding adults and one smaller without heating for nymphs and subadults for feeding and gutloading. The roaches will be fed scraps from kitchen and gutloaded prior to feeding with greens, fruit etc.. I will dust them with clean Calcium every feeding and with Multivitamin containing vitamin A, D3 and others every approx. 2 weeks.

For decorations, branches, flowers etc.. I'm planning to pick up some local free branches in the woods and clean them properly, and for plants i will definitely go with live potted plants that are on safe veiled list and are availiable for me locally. I want to plant the half of the enclosure densely, so he can hide when he wants to.

That should be all, if you need any more info on anything from the list please let me know. If any links are not working, let me know and i will look into it as well! Everything i listed together with building the cage itself and buying a chameleon, flowers etc.. should cost me around 300€. Thank you again for helping me, means a lot!

 

[Beman]

I do not have time to go through everything today but I will tomorrow. Please let me know if no one has gone through and given you feedback then.

 

[ChameLeon_]

I do not have time to go through everything today but I will tomorrow. Please let me know if no one has gone through and given you feedback then.

Oh sweet, thank you! One kind user already helped me with it, but i would love to hear from someone as reputable here as u are please!

 

[Tkrd69]

If you spam it here other new owners might want to read it

 

[ChameLeon_]

I do not have time to go through everything today but I will tomorrow. Please let me know if no one has gone through and given you feedback then.

Hey, so if you have time, noone else responded so a help would be really appreciated! Thank you in advance.

 

[Beman]

Hey, so if you have time, noone else responded so a help would be really appreciated! Thank you in advance.

Just waking up now.... I will start going through everything give me a bit to do so.

 

[Beman]

See my feedback in bold.

Allright so the cage itself will be made out of wood that will be treated with boat wood sealant thats water resistant and will vent a lot before i place chameleon in there. Living area will be about 55x55x120cm, plus a cabinet underneath the living area for food water etc.. Basking spot will be a bit higher than eye level. 2 sides of cage should be solid and will be placed in a corner of the room, and 2 sides and top will be screen. The screen i want to use is this one, since aluminium black ones are unavailable here, and this should be made of HDPE which should keep even a cat out. Maybe only top will be some aluminum one even if silver so it doesnt melt. Top part with lights will be held by 2 solid sides, aluminum L brackets on all 4 corners and a PVC pipe going through the middle serving as a support for top part and as a support to branches as well. Size of cage is good. For the screen. I prefer aluminum screening for windows. This not only can handle temps if lights are sitting on top but bugs can not chew through it. I am not familiar with the type you have there and I only speak English so I can not read the description.
So your thinking top screen and then a side and front screen? Then the back and a side solid against the wall? This should be fine. Make sure you test your ambient humidity in your home first... If it is really low then you may want to have the other side panel be solid and just keep the front and top screen.


For lights, they will be on timer (12 on / 12 off cycle), and I plan to go with this light and use it as a hood for this UVB light bulb. I cannot fit longer UVB, and im still unsure whether to go with this or a stronger UVB150 one. Ok for this I would not buy these two. For one it does not look like the fixture actually has a metal reflective panel for the uvb lighting. THis is how reptile fixtures differ from other fixtures. And the UVB is a T8 not T5. So your not going to get the depth of UVI penetration. Can you get Arcadia pro T5 fixtures there? For heat, i plan to use this dome that is about 15cm wide, with a basic clear bulb of 75W and with a dimmer plugged into it to adjust the heat. I'm also considering using a flood light for plants if it will be too dim, maybe something like this? These should be fine, Just double check temp output of the fixtures of course when they are running.

For watering and draining the excess water, i got a misting set with 2 nozzles. I plan to mist the cage 2 times a day, before lights go on and before they go off, for about 3 minutes each time. During day, i'm considering a DIY dripper on top. As for draining the water, i want to make the bottom a bit tilted so the water goes to one corner, drill hole there and drain it to a bucket through a small pvc pipe. I'm also considering adding some large rocks on bottom for esthetics? The bottom will be a small bowl shape made of wood as well and sealed with aquarium silicone sealant. All of this sounds good but I would do away with the rocks and have the bottom sealed really well so you can easily wipe it out to clean and so it drains.

For food i want to start a dubia roach colony and provide some variety here and there with treats. They will be kept in 2 boxes, one larger heated one for breeding adults and one smaller without heating for nymphs and subadults for feeding and gutloading. The roaches will be fed scraps from kitchen and gutloaded prior to feeding with greens, fruit etc.. I will dust them with clean Calcium every feeding and with Multivitamin containing vitamin A, D3 and others every approx. 2 weeks. One thing that will be hard is your ability to breed dubia .They like being very warm. So if you can give them the temps then you will be fine. The other thing is depending on what the chameleon was raised on it may not take to the dubia alone. Typically we have to work them in. Also Dubia have to be fed a very very low protein source for gutload otherwise they build up uric acid which a chameleon can have issues processing out. I can not tell exactly what is in the supplements... So ensure that the calcium is a plain phosphorus free calcium. And the multivitamin I can not tell what the levels and ratios are. So you can try it but if you see signs of edema then you will want to switch this out. Your schedule is correct on the rotation of these two.

For decorations, branches, flowers etc.. I'm planning to pick up some local free branches in the woods and clean them properly, and for plants i will definitely go with live potted plants that are on safe veiled list and are availiable for me locally. I want to plant the half of the enclosure densely, so he can hide when he wants to. Just make sure that they are not pine, cedar, or eucalyptus for the branches.

That should be all, if you need any more info on anything from the list please let me know. If any links are not working, let me know and i will look into it as well! Everything i listed together with building the cage itself and buying a chameleon, flowers etc.. should cost me around 300€. Thank you again for helping me, means a lot!

 

[Tonyww93]

For the potted plant you might also think about picking up a growlight to maintain it

 

[ChameLeon_]

Thank you so much for a valuable input! I will add info you couldnt get beacuse it's not in english and answer your questions now.

For the screen. I prefer aluminum screening for windows. This not only can handle temps if lights are sitting on top but bugs can not chew through it. I am not familiar with the type you have there and I only speak English so I can not read the description.

I cannot get hands on aluminium screen that is not silver. I read that silver screens reflect too much light and it's hard to see through. This one is made of HDPE material, hardened plastic that should keep even cats out, so hopefully it will keep feeders in. I also plan to cup-feed mostly, so they wont have chance to chew through. For top, i would use some metal one to stadn the heat.

So your thinking top screen and then a side and front screen? Then the back and a side solid against the wall? This should be fine. Make sure you test your ambient humidity in your home first... If it is really low then you may want to have the other side panel be solid and just keep the front and top screen.

In our area we have average humidity, i will be able to get more accurate reading soon when my meter arrives. I expect that this hybrid solution should be ideal, but yes i will check once i can.

Ok for this I would not buy these two. For one it does not look like the fixture actually has a metal reflective panel for the uvb lighting. THis is how reptile fixtures differ from other fixtures. And the UVB is a T8 not T5. So your not going to get the depth of UVI penetration. Can you get Arcadia pro T5 fixtures there?

It does not have a metal reflective panel unfortunately, but i was thinking of makeing a DIY one. Not as effective, but i could then use stronger UVB150 bulb instead of UVB100 one. The reflector would be half a tube of large diameter covered with aluminum cooking foil, hopefully without too much wrinkles? Arcadia are very hard to get here and really expensive compared to other parts etc.. It is not exactly a 5.0 nor a 10%, if you check those new links they made a new marking system, it should be something in between. Would that work possibly?

Just double check temp output of the fixtures of course when they are running.

Of course i will fine-tune everything before introducing a chameleon.

ll of this sounds good but I would do away with the rocks and have the bottom sealed really well so you can easily wipe it out to clean and so it drains.

Actually you are right with the rocks, did not realize it will cause problems when cleaning feces and other stuff.. Thanks! I plan to seal everytghing with aquarium safe silicone, so hopefully nothing will leak.

One thing that will be hard is your ability to breed dubia .They like being very warm. So if you can give them the temps then you will be fine. The other thing is depending on what the chameleon was raised on it may not take to the dubia alone. Typically we have to work them in. Also Dubia have to be fed a very very low protein source for gutload otherwise they build up uric acid which a chameleon can have issues processing out.

I would like to start breeding few months before i actually get a chameleon, so they have time to start reproducing properly, or i would buy feeders until i get the colony going. Hopefully he will get used to roaches since i would buy a young one? Low protein source such as .. ? Not great with nutritions and stuff im sorry.

I can not tell exactly what is in the supplements... So ensure that the calcium is a plain phosphorus free calcium. And the multivitamin I can not tell what the levels and ratios are. So you can try it but if you see signs of edema then you will want to switch this out.

For the Calcium it says it is pure 100% calcium carbonate, so without any additives. The Multivitamin should contain calcium as well, vitamin D3 with ratio 25 000 iu/kg if it tells you something? Other than that it contains vitamins A, C, E, B1, B2, B6, B12, minerals Fe, Co, Mn, Cu, Zn, I, Se and some acids, should be a multi pack for chameleons?

Just make sure that they are not pine, cedar, or eucalyptus for the branches.

We have a lot of birches around here, are those allright?

Thank you again for your time, you are awesome! I hope i get it all right..

 

[Beman]

Thank you so much for a valuable input! I will add info you couldnt get beacuse it's not in english and answer your questions now.


I cannot get hands on aluminium screen that is not silver. I read that silver screens reflect too much light and it's hard to see through. This one is made of HDPE material, hardened plastic that should keep even cats out, so hopefully it will keep feeders in. I also plan to cup-feed mostly, so they wont have chance to chew through. For top, i would use some metal one to stadn the heat.


In our area we have average humidity, i will be able to get more accurate reading soon when my meter arrives. I expect that this hybrid solution should be ideal, but yes i will check once i can.


It does not have a metal reflective panel unfortunately, but i was thinking of makeing a DIY one. Not as effective, but i could then use stronger UVB150 bulb instead of UVB100 one. The reflector would be half a tube of large diameter covered with aluminum cooking foil, hopefully without too much wrinkles? Arcadia are very hard to get here and really expensive compared to other parts etc.. It is not exactly a 5.0 nor a 10%, if you check those new links they made a new marking system, it should be something in between. Would that work possibly?


Of course i will fine-tune everything before introducing a chameleon.


Actually you are right with the rocks, did not realize it will cause problems when cleaning feces and other stuff.. Thanks! I plan to seal everytghing with aquarium safe silicone, so hopefully nothing will leak.


I would like to start breeding few months before i actually get a chameleon, so they have time to start reproducing properly, or i would buy feeders until i get the colony going. Hopefully he will get used to roaches since i would buy a young one? Low protein source such as .. ? Not great with nutritions and stuff im sorry.


For the Calcium it says it is pure 100% calcium carbonate, so without any additives. The Multivitamin should contain calcium as well, vitamin D3 with ratio 25 000 iu/kg if it tells you something? Other than that it contains vitamins A, C, E, B1, B2, B6, B12, minerals Fe, Co, Mn, Cu, Zn, I, Se and some acids, should be a multi pack for chameleons?


We have a lot of birches around here, are those allright?

Thank you again for your time, you are awesome! I hope i get it all right..

Ok for screen sounds like that will work but for the top panel I am guessing you will need to go with a larger gauge... This is where uvb and screen gets tricky. Your going to have to go with a metal for the top but you need to know your UVI level. T8 fixtures have a lower output distance compared to a T5HO fixture. So next question are you able to buy a solarmeter 6.5 there? I can assist with distance to basking if your using a T5HO or a T8 with reptisun bulbs going through standard aluminum window screen. But once you very off of that with a T8 I just do not know to give you approximate UVI level at basking distance.

I do not advice making your own reflector... The most important thing in chameleon husbandry is UVB being on point. Without this so many issues can stem from. Can you get your hands on reptisun bulbs?

Perfect start checking your ambient house humidity levels. This will give you a good base to work from.

If the chameleon was raised on dubia you will not have an issue. But most babies are raised on crickets at least they are here in the states. So just keep in mind you may have to feed crickets along side dubia. So dubia and protein... It means a low protein gutload... Needs to be under 12% if I am remembering correctly. So if you use a commercial gutload like repashy bug burger it is below the protein % but their superload gutload is higher than the % which is more protein intake then dubia should get.
If you do all fresh veg that is fine to... Choose items from the image below.

The calcium is good and the multivitamin sounds good. Yes thank you for that info because I can compare that to other leading brands we can get here.

Birch trees are wonderful! Go on a collecting mission and find yourself some beautiful pieces. I always recommend collecting more than you think you need. Typically we need more for an enclosure than we realize. I would not strip the bark off them.

 

[ChameLeon_]

Ok for screen sounds like that will work but for the top panel I am guessing you will need to go with a larger gauge... This is where uvb and screen gets tricky. Your going to have to go with a metal for the top but you need to know your UVI level. T8 fixtures have a lower output distance compared to a T5HO fixture. So next question are you able to buy a solarmeter 6.5 there? I can assist with distance to basking if your using a T5HO or a T8 with reptisun bulbs going through standard aluminum window screen. But once you very off of that with a T8 I just do not know to give you approximate UVI level at basking distance.

I do not advice making your own reflector... The most important thing in chameleon husbandry is UVB being on point. Without this so many issues can stem from. Can you get your hands on reptisun bulbs?

Perfect start checking your ambient house humidity levels. This will give you a good base to work from.

If the chameleon was raised on dubia you will not have an issue. But most babies are raised on crickets at least they are here in the states. So just keep in mind you may have to feed crickets along side dubia. So dubia and protein... It means a low protein gutload... Needs to be under 12% if I am remembering correctly. So if you use a commercial gutload like repashy bug burger it is below the protein % but their superload gutload is higher than the % which is more protein intake then dubia should get.
If you do all fresh veg that is fine to... Choose items from the image below.

The calcium is good and the multivitamin sounds good. Yes thank you for that info because I can compare that to other leading brands we can get here.

Birch trees are wonderful! Go on a collecting mission and find yourself some beautiful pieces. I always recommend collecting more than you think you need. Typically we need more for an enclosure than we realize. I would not strip the bark off them.

Thank you again, this is a huge help. I cannot buy the solarmeter as it is really expensive for me. Also a fixture for T5 is almost impossible to find, everything is for LEDs only.. that's why i will have to go with T8 with higher output. As for reptisun bulb, i do not think they sell those here as well.. it's all ReptiPlanet or ExoTerra. I found one supplier with arcadia kit but it is too long for my cage and also cost almost 100€..

The breeder im planning to buy for states that the babies are fed with roached, crickets and other small insects, so hopefully dubias wont be such a problem, if it will be i can try to make a transition from crickets slowly. As for gutload, planning to use mostly fruits and veggies as the bug burger is also not available here

Thank you for confirmation on supplements and branches, i thought i got that right! So only thing i have to figure out is the UVB now.. I'm also trying to stay on budget and every other fixture that is not sold locally is really expensive compared to other parts i can buy locally..

 

[Beman]

Thank you again, this is a huge help. I cannot buy the solarmeter as it is really expensive for me. Also a fixture for T5 is almost impossible to find, everything is for LEDs only.. that's why i will have to go with T8 with higher output. As for reptisun bulb, i do not think they sell those here as well.. it's all ReptiPlanet or ExoTerra.

The breeder im planning to buy for states that the babies are fed with roached, crickets and other small insects, so hopefully dubias wont be such a problem, if it will be i can try to make a transition from crickets slowly. As for gutload, planning to use mostly fruits and veggies as the bug burger is also not available here

Thank you for confirmation on supplements and branches, i thought i got that right! So only thing i have to figure out is the UVB now.. I'm also trying to stay on budget and every other fixture that is not sold locally is really expensive compared to other parts i can buy locally..

Ok so I am going to be limited on giving you distances with exo terra bulbs. Does your breeder use these fixtures and bulbs? Can he give you specific info on this? This is what I can give you... See the left two columns. So your looking for that 1-3UVI range... Veileds are supposed to be exposed to the UVI 3 index. Which as you can tell is very very close to the top screen using the 6% or a 5.0 T8 bulb. Now then if baby can screen climb the top panel you have to lift a T8 fixture too to ensure they are not in overexposure levels. BUT if baby can not screen climb the top due to how then enclosure is made your one step ahead and this can reduce a lot of stress. So with the stronger T8 bulb so either the 10.0 or 12% your looking at 5 inches to get to that 3 UVI range. So you can easily set the fixture on the cage and then have the branch 7 inches down and then baby is going to be in that 2-3 UVI as it matures.

Can you get the fixture that is specifically sold for the exoterra T8 bulbs?




So Sorry I forgot the gutload image.

 

[ChameLeon_]

Ok so I am going to be limited on giving you distances with exo terra bulbs. Does your breeder use these fixtures and bulbs? Can he give you specific info on this? This is what I can give you... See the left two columns. So your looking for that 1-3UVI range... Veileds are supposed to be exposed to the UVI 3 index. Which as you can tell is very very close to the top screen using the 6% or a 5.0 T8 bulb. Now then if baby can screen climb the top panel you have to lift a T8 fixture too to ensure they are not in overexposure levels. BUT if baby can not screen climb the top due to how then enclosure is made your one step ahead and this can reduce a lot of stress. So with the stronger T8 bulb so either the 10.0 or 12% your looking at 5 inches to get to that 3 UVI range. So you can easily set the fixture on the cage and then have the branch 7 inches down and then baby is going to be in that 2-3 UVI as it matures.

Can you get the fixture that is specifically sold for the exoterra T8 bulbs?

So Sorry I forgot the gutload image.

I studied their bulbs here and from that i wanted to go with UVB150 45cm bulb and a fixture i sent before. They state that the stronger bulb can compensate for the loss that the screen is causing and also their chart for distance states that chameleon should be about 7-8 inches from the bulb itself to get UVI 2.6. Problem is i do not know whether i can trust these data.

To answer your questions, i do not know what the breeder is using in terms of UVB unfortunately. I also cannot get the Exoterra linear top, they only sell the Exoterra dualbulb top, which is for compact bulbs and therefore is useless for me.

How can i make the enclosure so that baby wont be able to screen climb the top part and burn himself? Do i just make the distance between wall screen and top screen bigger? Thanks.

 

[Beman]

I studied their bulbs here and from that i wanted to go with UVB150 45cm bulb and a fixture i sent before. They state that the stronger bulb can compensate for the loss that the screen is causing and also their chart for distance states that chameleon should be about 7-8 inches from the bulb itself to get UVI 2.6. Problem is i do not know whether i can trust these data.

To answer your questions, i do not know what the breeder is using in terms of UVB unfortunately. I also cannot get the Exoterra linear top, they only sell the Exoterra dualbulb top, which is for compact bulbs and therefore is useless for me.

How can i make the enclosure so that baby wont be able to screen climb the top part and burn himself? Do i just make the distance between wall screen and top screen bigger? Thanks.

I may have some time this afternoon to dig into the details on their bulbs. If not then I can do it tomorrow.

Can you get a T8 fixture for a fish tank there? THese often have the reflector panel. But if it has a plastic cover for the bulbs that would need to be removed.

Depends on the design of the enclosure. I run a totally hybrid enclosure. So 3 solid sides and the front is marine grade vinyl on the very top and door panels. So my very bottom service door is screen and the top is screen. But due to the top panel and the 3 solid sides he can not get up to the top unless he really really wants to. It is pretty rare that he does. But as a baby he would not be able to because they can not reach that far. So the idea is no access point to climb up to the top. My door was screen but I replaced it with the vinyl as well because he is a screen climber no matter what I do and was losing nails doing it.

But the bottom service door being screen and the top is where you get the chimney effect. What I love about this is I have more stable temps and humidity. I live in a very very dry climate in Arizona but with this enclosure and live plants I can maintain a daytime 40% without issue. And my temps stay stable even if I have windows open.

 

[ChameLeon_]

I may have some time this afternoon to dig into the details on their bulbs. If not then I can do it tomorrow.

Can you get a T8 fixture for a fish tank there? THese often have the reflector panel. But if it has a plastic cover for the bulbs that would need to be removed.

Depends on the design of the enclosure. I run a totally hybrid enclosure. So 3 solid sides and the front is marine grade vinyl on the very top and door panels. So my very bottom service door is screen and the top is screen. But due to the top panel and the 3 solid sides he can not get up to the top unless he really really wants to. It is pretty rare that he does. But as a baby he would not be able to because they can not reach that far. So the idea is no access point to climb up to the top. My door was screen but I replaced it with the vinyl as well because he is a screen climber no matter what I do and was losing nails doing it.

But the bottom service door being screen and the top is where you get the chimney effect. What I love about this is I have more stable temps and humidity. I live in a very very dry climate in Arizona but with this enclosure and live plants I can maintain a daytime 40% without issue. And my temps stay stable even if I have windows open.

That looks really pretty! I would love some feedback on their bulbs but if it's too much trouble please do not do it, you don't have to. Already helped me a great lot!

For the T8 fish fixture, nope again, all here is LED. Nothing is for fluorescent tubes anymore, even the tube lights are LEDs now to save electricity and be more green.. Only kitchen lights as i sent before are still using the old tubes, i didnt find anything else here no matter how hard i tried ..

I plant to do 2 solid 2 screen sides, so he would be able to climb.. although the screen i sent is 5x5mm which is fairly large so his nails won't be pulled or anything. I can try and make the distance between sides and top bigger, so when hes young he wont reach there. What distance is enough for them to prevent from that? Approximately.

I chose 2 solid 2 screen beacuse here the temps are relatively same as their needs (indoors summer day 25-26, nights about 20-23, winter day 21-23, nights as low as i allow it to go by venting, probably around 19-21) and humidity is around the 30-40% mark summer and a bit lower in winter when heating is on, so when i will raise it a bit by misting for him i can get it to spike even higher, hope that's humid enough?

 

[BostonKeith]

So along with these new leds there is this amazing kinda new thing called the internet! It allows you to search for stuff! Once you find what you like you put money into the screen! Then little green amazon elves pack it up and fly it over in drones. The future is sweet. If there are any reptile shops near you they sell at the minimum t8s. Countless animals require uvb. I would suggest either finding a reptile store or the green elves.

 

[ChameLeon_]

So along with these new leds there is this amazing kinda new thing called the internet! It allows you to search for stuff! Once you find what you like you put money into the screen! Then little green amazon elves pack it up and fly it over in drones. The future is sweet. If there are any reptile shops near you they sell at the minimum t8s. Countless animals require uvb. I would suggest either finding a reptile store or the green elves.

Amazon does not have a warehouse in this country and closest one have 15 20€ shipping on every little item, and as i mentioned before i am trying to stay on budget. Whole cage will cost under 300 and the lights from amazon or other international website would cost me 100€ or more.. that seems a bit too much compared to the cage itself. So elves are not the way here unfortunately.

And for the reptile shops around me, i have no problem getting a T8 tubes, not reptisun but they are T8 tubes. I could get T5 as well if i tried hard enoguh. Problem is with the fixtures for those tubes. Not a single shop sells them anymore here, not reptile-specific only kitchen lights like i linked, so i thought i will try a little DIY with those. Only fixture there is is for compact bulbs which as i read are pretty bad, UVB compact bulbs, basking spot bulbs etc.. But thanks for answering!

 

[Beman]

That looks really pretty! I would love some feedback on their bulbs but if it's too much trouble please do not do it, you don't have to. Already helped me a great lot!

For the T8 fish fixture, nope again, all here is LED. Nothing is for fluorescent tubes anymore, even the tube lights are LEDs now to save electricity and be more green.. Only kitchen lights as i sent before are still using the old tubes, i didnt find anything else here no matter how hard i tried ..

I plant to do 2 solid 2 screen sides, so he would be able to climb.. although the screen i sent is 5x5mm which is fairly large so his nails won't be pulled or anything. I can try and make the distance between sides and top bigger, so when hes young he wont reach there. What distance is enough for them to prevent from that? Approximately.

I chose 2 solid 2 screen beacuse here the temps are relatively same as their needs (indoors summer day 25-26, nights about 20-23, winter day 21-23, nights as low as i allow it to go by venting, probably around 19-21) and humidity is around the 30-40% mark summer and a bit lower in winter when heating is on, so when i will raise it a bit by misting for him i can get it to spike even higher, hope that's humid enough?

I don't mind helping... That is what I am in the forum for... Ok so the UVB I spent the last hour scouring their sites lol. I literally can not find where they say if their measurements are through screen or not. I will say they are almost always given not through screen. So if you can do a large gauge metal screen top this is going to allow more UVB to pass through. Which helps not losing half of the output. So I do not think the UVB100 would be ok for a T8 but I think the UVB 150 would be and close to what we consider a UVB 10.0 in a T8 to be. Now they say they print on the box the distance from the fixture for certain UVI levels. So I would imagine again they are basing these on not going through screen. So I would go with the 150 and then let me know what the dang box says because for the life of me I can not find the box image that actually shows what they suggest. lol

Now for the fixture go with what you found. The reflector is a great thing to have but if you can not get it then that is kinda that lol.

The mesh you chose for the sides will be great for the simple fact nails getting caught will not be an issue. Just make sure when you get it that it is smooth no sharp edges to the plastic that might cut toes.

Veileds tolerate lower humidity so if you can at least maintain 30% in the winter with the heat that will be good. You could always do a removable side panel that you can take on and off depending on the season. Ya know like hook it over the screen on the outside?

Now to get him to not climb really not possible unless your going to have solid sides from the top down at least 8 inches which I think will defeat the purpose of what you envision for the enclosure. So this means heat fixture will have to be lifted up off the top at least 4 inches. UVB with a T8 that we are not 100% certain on I do not know that I would lift it more than 2 inches if using a larger gauge screen for the top. If it was a T5 I would for sure.