Sick Chameleon To Vet

babybug134

New Member
I just took my sick 8 mo old Jackson Chameleon to the vet last nite. She has a hugely inflamed right eye so swollen she can't open it and she has become lethargic and weak. They put her on antibiotic eye drops and gave her a shot of an antibiotic and fluids under her skin. Strangely she continues to eat but will not drink. My vet suggested I keep a bowl of luke warm water at the bottom of her enclosure for her to soak in but my chameleon favors the highest point in the cage and I have no idea how to get her into the water! My enclosure if large enough but I put alot in the enclosure to make her feel more at home; faux moss covered branches, air plants, bromeliad, pre-made water, fogger, etc. Could these be harming her in any way? Any suggestions on getting her to drink? I tried a small syringe and although it worked the other night it has not worked since. According to my vet the light and heat sources are fine. Although I admitted I do not dust my crickets or gut load them and she STRESSED the importance of doing both. She said maybe a vitamin A deficiency.
Anyway I'm upset because I hate to see her like this. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Kristi
 
Here is some recommended information to include when asking for help in the health clinic forum. By providing this information, you will receive more accurate and beneficial responses. It might not be necessary to answer all these questions, but the more you provide the better. Please remember that even the most knowledgeable person can only guess at what your problem may be. Only an experienced reptile veterinarian who can directly examine your animal can give a true diagnosis of your chameleon's health.


Cage Info:

* Cage Type - Describe your cage (Glass, Screen, Combo?) What are the dimensions?
* Lighting - What brand, model, and types of lighting are you using? What is your daily lighting schedule?
* Temperature - What temp range have you created (cage floor to basking spot)? Lowest overnight temp? How do you measure these temps?
* Humidity - What are your humidity levels? How are you creating and maintaining these levels? What do you use to measure humidity?
* Plants - Are you using live plants? If so, what kind?
* Placement - Where is your cage located? Is it near any fans, air vents, or high traffic areas? At what height is the top of the cage relative to your room floor?
* Location - Where are you geographically located?


Chameleon Info:

* Your Chameleon - The species, sex, and age of your chameleon. How long has it been in your care?
* Handling - How often do you handle your chameleon?
* Feeding - What are you feeding your cham? What amount? What is the schedule? How are you gut-loading your feeders?
* Supplements - What brand and type of calcium and vitamin products are you dusting your feeders with and what is the schedule?
* Watering - What kind of watering technique do you use? How often and how long to you mist? Do you see your chameleon drinking?
* Fecal Description - Briefly note colors and consistency from recent droppings. Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites?
* History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you.
* Current Problem - The current problem that you are concerned about.


Pictures are helpful
 
It kinda worries me that the vet told you to put a bowl of lukewarm water for her in the bottom of the cage. Which vet in NJ did you go to?
 
You know that struck me as kind of odd as well! I went to Red Bank. But I actually thought she was pretty great and she is a reptile and amphibian owner as well.
 
Maybe try getting her into the shower, oftentimes the high humidity will stimulate them to drink. Pedialyte is good to offer when they do drink. Only time I've ever soaked chameleons was when they were egg bound....
 
You said..."faux moss covered branches, air plants, bromeliad, pre-made water, fogger, etc. Could these be harming her in any way?"...I don't use moss because I worry about it causing impaction if ingested. What are the air plants you are using? Did you wash the plants well (both sides of the leaves) before you put them in the cage?

What is the basking temperature in the cage? Ambient? Night time?
Is your chameleon pooping?

You said..."Any suggestions on getting her to drink? I tried a small syringe and although it worked the other night it has not worked since"...dripping water on its nose should stimulate it to drink. Drip it slowly...one or two drops per second. Are you sure she's not drinking when you aren't watching her? Are you misting the cage? Running a dripper?

You said..."Although I admitted I do not dust my crickets or gut load them and she STRESSED the importance of doing both. She said maybe a vitamin A deficiency."...she may have more than just a vitamin A deficiency. Do you provide UVB light for her? Sunlight? The UVB from the light and the sunlight should not pass through glass or plastic.

Exposure to UVB/sunlight allows the chameleon to produce D3 which allows it to use the calcium in its system. Since most insects used as feeders have a poor ratio of calcium to phosphorous, its important to dust with a phos.-free calcium powder at most feedings.

Dusting the insects before feeding them to the chameleon twice a month with a vitamin powder that has a (prOformed) beta carotene source of vitamin A will ensure that the chameleon gets enough vitamins. Beta carotene will not build up in the system since its converted to vitamin A as needed. However, its not proven whether all/any chameleons can convert the beta carotene...so it may be necessary to give a little prEformed vitamin A once in a while. PrEformed can build up though and the excess can prevent the D3 from doing its job and push the chameleon towards MBD.

Also, dusting twice a month lightly with a phos.-free calcium/D3 powder will ensure that the chameleon gets enough D3. (This shouldn't be needed if the chameleon gets direct sunlight.) D3 FROM SUPPLEMENTS will also build up in the system. (UVB from light/sunlight shouldn't build up as long as the chameleon can move out of the light.)

Gutloading and feeding the insects a nutritious diet is also important. You can feed crickets, roaches, superworms a wide assortment of greens (dandelion, kale, collards, endive, escarole, mustard greens, etc.) and veggies ( carrots, sweet potatoes, sweet red pepper, squash, zucchini, celery leaves, etc.).

Calcium, phos., D3 and vitamin A all play important parts in bone health and in other systems in the chameleon as well...and they need to be in balance. You need to look at what you supplement with, what you feed to the insects and what you feed to the chameleon when trying to balance it.

Appropriate temperatures also play a part. The proper temperatures allow for good digestion which then plays a part in nutrient absorption.

Hope you can make the necessary changes to get your chameleon back on track!
 
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