well either way the moths will lay eggs, maybe your just not seeing it, they will lay fertile or unfertile
OK I love your setup! with the grate for their poop to fall through! sooooo smart. I still have mine in cocoons. When I put in the rolls I had some up and some on the side. The bigger worms seemed to go for the side ones and the smaller ones went for the ones cut down and sitting up. I took all of mine out of the rolls once they completed their cocoon and put them into a separate container. It has been about a week since the first one spun. I have been keeping my worms at 78-80 degrees. I did have to put a small dish of water in to up the humidity because the food was drying out within a few hours under the heat.
Yeah I put the water dish in their container... I have it at 78 degrees. I have not had any issue of food drying out since I added the water.
So you don't put them in the fridge immediately? How many days do I wait exactly?
I read that you wait 3 days after they are laid. They will change from lemon color to dark grey/brown/black if fertile during that time.
ohhhhhhh I just love that I can pick your brain on this lol. Thanks hun. So far no changes in my cocoons but the very first one cocooned on the 6th and the last one cocooned on the 13th. So I still have a bit of time if it is 3 weeks lol. I am hoping that I get males and females that emerge at the same time.
Mine emerged over 5 days and I did have to physically pair them up. I put clear deli cups with airholes over the mating pairs and removed the males after they were done (12-24 hrs) but left the females confined so that she laid all eggs on a circle of paper towel. Made it easier to control. after the 3 days, I cut out the paper towel circles, bagged and dated the baggies, and put them in the fridge.
Uggg I am really thinking this will be my first and last attempt at this lol. These are sooooo demanding
Yes that's what I was looking at. But in reading the chart they are higher in phosphorus and lower in calcium to that of even a cricket. So wouldn't they not be the healthiest? Unless the moths make up a different nutritional value than the larvae? Idk I just saw the chart and was curious. Just seems like there are better options out there imo. I guess the one advantage they have is being very low in fat. So maybe a good feeder for already overweight Chams or adults with fat kid issues? Lol
So they should still be fed as part of a variety but from my understanding it is the fact that they are low in fat but also high in calcium, b vitamins, protein, iron, and magnesium. I believe it is due to the low fat content and nutritional value that they are considered such a good feeder.
OK thank you Beman. Was just curious because I hear about Calcium to phosphorus ratios. Having to much phosphorus to calcium negates the effects of the calcium as far as absorption into the bones and tissues themselves. I have really been doing good with mixing up the feeders for my little guy. Yesterday he had 7 gutloaded crickets, 2 gutloaded Dubias, and 2 superworms! Was super proud of him for eating all his fruits and veggies lol!
I am by no means a specialist lol. I know it has to do with the total amounts of everything. I also know that the fat content is something that is looked at. Honestly I feed them because this was what I was advised to do by several of the very experienced keepers and breeders here. Due to my guy being extremely picky and no longer being willing to eat crickets, dubia, or superworms. I needed to find another staple feeder that I could use that he would actually eat.OK thank you Beman. Was just curious because I hear about Calcium to phosphorus ratios. Having to much phosphorus to calcium negates the effects of the calcium as far as absorption into the bones and tissues themselves. I have really been doing good with mixing up the feeders for my little guy. Yesterday he had 7 gutloaded crickets, 2 gutloaded Dubias, and 2 superworms! Was super proud of him for eating all his fruits and veggies lol!
