Sitting With Mouth Open

[PBandJammers]

Chameleon Info:

• Your Chameleon - Male, Jackson's, I’m sure he’s between 3 - 6 months
• Handling - Very little. Nothing besides moving him to a plant by the window to free roam.
• Feeding - About 4-7 Crickets daily
• Supplements - Calcium without D3. I was told by the reptile shop I purchase my crickets through they are vitabugs and my Chameleon won’t require vitamin supplements
• Watering - The Reptirain automated system. I have it set up for 1 minute every 3 hours.
• Fecal Description - Its been daily and dark brown and white.
• History - Had him about 3 weeks now.

Cage Info:

• Cage Type - I have a screen cage 16x16x20
• Lighting - I have the Zoo med double dish thing for lighting and I'm using a UVB as well as basking light in it. it's set from 8am to 8pm on a timer.
• Temperature - In basking spot it hits High 70’s and the rest of the cage is in the high 60’s.
• Humidity - The digital humidity gauge I have hanging has a read out of around 70%- 100% depending on when the last spray was.
• Plants - Mostly artificial with a real Gardenia.
• Placement - It's in the corner of my living room next to a window with woodenblinds. On nice days I’ll open the window and let air and light in. it's not near any vents or anything. the top of the cage is about 6 1/2 from the ground as it's sittingon a desk.
• Location - I'm in northern California

Current Problem - Him opening his mouth started about 2-3 days ago. Which is also the time I started feeding him the new crickets from a different place. I don’t see why that would be the cause though. He doesn’t gasp or hiss or anything like that, he’ll just occasionally open his mouth for like 2-3 seconds then close it again. I’ve read that open mouths is either it being too hot and a respiratory infection. I don’t think my temps are too hot. I’m just a worried parent. He’s been eating and drinking and dedicating just fine. I uploaded some photos of what his cage looks like, as well as window placement.

#1

 

[Decadancin]

I was told by the reptile shop I purchase my crickets through they are vitabugs and my Chameleon won’t require vitamin supplements

This is terrible advice and probably given just so you continue to use them as the feeder source. The best feeders are those who have been kept feeding on a high quality gutload.

As for supplements, here is a good starting point from the caresheets for Jacksons...

Calcium and other vitamins are very important to your chameleon's health. Feeder insects should be lightly dusted with powdered supplement before being fed to your chameleon. As a montane species (native to higher altitudes) Jackson's have decreased supplementation requirements compared to tropical species due to metabolism differences. Use calcium (without D3 or phosphorus) twice a week, a multivitamin once a month, and calcium with D3 once a month.

I'm not suggesting that this has anything to do with the symptoms you are describing.

 

[PBandJammers]

This is terrible advice and probably given just so you continue to use them as the feeder source. The best feeders are those who have been kept feeding on a high quality gutload.

As for supplements, here is a good starting point from the caresheets for Jacksons...

Calcium and other vitamins are very important to your chameleon's health. Feeder insects should be lightly dusted with powdered supplement before being fed to your chameleon. As a montane species (native to higher altitudes) Jackson's have decreased supplementation requirements compared to tropical species due to metabolism differences. Use calcium (without D3 or phosphorus) twice a week, a multivitamin once a month, and calcium with D3 once a month.

I'm not suggesting that this has anything to do with the symptoms you are describing.

Yeah, I’ve been doing twice a week Calcium and they guy load their crickets. I don’t remember with what brand of feed though. They also give them vegetables and fruit. They toured me around the store since I was a new customer and they wanted me to see what exactly they do to their crickets.

 

[Maximillion]

My Maxey has always sat around with her mouth open every since I got her at about 3 months old. She is now going on 4 years old and still sits around with her mouth open... But I only kept her alive by the wonderful people on this sites advise and wisdom they know much more than I do...

 

[PBandJammers]

My Maxey has always sat around with her mouth open every since I got her at about 3 months old. She is now going on 4 years old and still sits around with her mouth open... But I only kept her alive by the wonderful people on this sites advise and wisdom they know much more than I do...

It’s good to know that maybe it’s just a thing he does and isn’t a serious problem.

 

[Mawtyplant]

Can you post a better picture of your chameleon? Your basking temperatures are too low, i go to bed now but i will double check with you tomorrow

 

[PBandJammers]

Can you post a better picture of your chameleon? Your basking temperatures are too low, i go to bed now but i will double check with you tomorrow

I tried to get a good shot of him, but he’s super camera shy. He’s the best I could get of little Mica.

 

[Kathy S]

I tried to get a good shot of him, but he’s super camera shy. He’s the best I could get of little Mica.

I am new to the forum, but have kept Chams for years. Jackson's are my favorites, especially the females.
I wonder if your little guy is just starting to feel good enough, spunky enough to practice a little threat behavior, since he only does it for a couple seconds. Does he look at you when he does it? Is it when you maybe surprise him a little? If he is not mouth breathing, I doubt he has a respiratory infection. But I agree that he might like his bask spot a little warmer, but if he is in a window, maybe it gets warmer than you think and he is cooling off when he gapes. I would not put a cage in the sun because he cannot get away from it like he would if he lived in a tree. Move him to the window in the morning sun, then put him back. I have a perch in the window where mine like to see the sky. Kathy

 

[PBandJammers]

I am new to the forum, but have kept Chams for years. Jackson's are my favorites, especially the females.
I wonder if your little guy is just starting to feel good enough, spunky enough to practice a little threat behavior, since he only does it for a couple seconds. Does he look at you when he does it? Is it when you maybe surprise him a little? If he is not mouth breathing, I doubt he has a respiratory infection. But I agree that he might like his bask spot a little warmer, but if he is in a window, maybe it gets warmer than you think and he is cooling off when he gapes. I would not put a cage in the sun because he cannot get away from it like he would if he lived in a tree. Move him to the window in the morning sun, then put him back. I have a perch in the window where mine like to see the sky. Kathy

Actually now that you mention it, I’ve only ever seen him do it when I’m up close to the cage. I’ve never seen him do it from afar. It’s only when I’m looking at him closely that he does it. Yeah he does look at me while he does it. And when I clean up around his tank he usually flees from me and hides in his “angry corner”. I got him from petco and I’m not sure how they treat their pets, but hes thouroghly afraid of hands. I could use tongs or hold his feeding cup and he’s all bright and green, but if I put my hand too close or move to quickly, it’s pretty much instantly dark brown/ black and trying his best to get away. Maybe he’s making his stand against hands?

 

[Kathy S]

I think you're getting the idea. Imagine kids pulling at him, or passing him around while talking loudly. Just yanking him off a branch could break a leg. Now you have to charm him. Let him know that you will not grab him. If you must pick him up, let him walk onto your hand by making it a higher perch than the one he is on.Talk to him softly before you feed him. Be soft and reassuring. After you put some crickets in his cage, tap gently from outside the cage as to where you see them, as if to alert him to where they are. Make yourself his ally. When you look at him, do not stare. If he sees you looking at him, look to your side as if you don't want to see him. Do a slow blink. Let him know you are not competing with him for his food. Stand back when possible and watch from maybe two feet away, or farther. Soon, he will become curious and come to see you when you come in, once he learns you are neither going to grab him, nor compete with him for food. They are very bright despite their slow movements. I think of them as alert old people. Think of this like trying to catch a wild bird, a little more trust every day. If you must inspect him up close before he is tame, make a "blind". Cut a small hole in a piece of cloth, cover one side of the cage and look through the hole. Leave the cloth up so he gets used to it. If he catches on, quit that too.

With all wild things, continual fear puts stress on their immune system. Eventually, the immune system will fail, and he gets pneumonia or the parasite load takes over. So go slow, and you guys will have a great thing in a couple of months.He is just a baby and the foster home was a hard beginning for him. Gaping is not anger, but fear.
.

 

[BuddhaBud]

I think you're getting the idea. Imagine kids pulling at him, or passing him around while talking loudly. Just yanking him off a branch could break a leg. Now you have to charm him. Let him know that you will not grab him. If you must pick him up, let him walk onto your hand by making it a higher perch than the one he is on.Talk to him softly before you feed him. Be soft and reassuring. After you put some crickets in his cage, tap gently from outside the cage as to where you see them, as if to alert him to where they are. Make yourself his ally. When you look at him, do not stare. If he sees you looking at him, look to your side as if you don't want to see him. Do a slow blink. Let him know you are not competing with him for his food. Stand back when possible and watch from maybe two feet away, or farther. Soon, he will become curious and come to see you when you come in, once he learns you are neither going to grab him, nor compete with him for food. They are very bright despite their slow movements. I think of them as alert old people. Think of this like trying to catch a wild bird, a little more trust every day. If you must inspect him up close before he is tame, make a "blind". Cut a small hole in a piece of cloth, cover one side of the cage and look through the hole. Leave the cloth up so he gets used to it. If he catches on, quit that too.

With all wild things, continual fear puts stress on their immune system. Eventually, the immune system will fail, and he gets pneumonia or the parasite load takes over. So go slow, and you guys will have a great thing in a couple of months.He is just a baby and the foster home was a hard beginning for him. Gaping is not anger, but fear.
.

"Alert old people", I love it. Also, excellent advice.

You really do have to charm your chameleon, earn their trust. Food is a great way to do that. Learn to interpret their body language & react accordingly so you don't trigger their stressors.

 

[PBandJammers]

I think you're getting the idea. Imagine kids pulling at him, or passing him around while talking loudly. Just yanking him off a branch could break a leg. Now you have to charm him. Let him know that you will not grab him. If you must pick him up, let him walk onto your hand by making it a higher perch than the one he is on.Talk to him softly before you feed him. Be soft and reassuring. After you put some crickets in his cage, tap gently from outside the cage as to where you see them, as if to alert him to where they are. Make yourself his ally. When you look at him, do not stare. If he sees you looking at him, look to your side as if you don't want to see him. Do a slow blink. Let him know you are not competing with him for his food. Stand back when possible and watch from maybe two feet away, or farther. Soon, he will become curious and come to see you when you come in, once he learns you are neither going to grab him, nor compete with him for food. They are very bright despite their slow movements. I think of them as alert old people. Think of this like trying to catch a wild bird, a little more trust every day. If you must inspect him up close before he is tame, make a "blind". Cut a small hole in a piece of cloth, cover one side of the cage and look through the hole. Leave the cloth up so he gets used to it. If he catches on, quit that too.

With all wild things, continual fear puts stress on their immune system. Eventually, the immune system will fail, and he gets pneumonia or the parasite load takes over. So go slow, and you guys will have a great thing in a couple of months.He is just a baby and the foster home was a hard beginning for him. Gaping is not anger, but fear.
.

I’ll definitely try everything you suggested. Thank you so much for the advice!

 

[Kathy S]

My Maxey has always sat around with her mouth open every since I got her at about 3 months old. She is now going on 4 years old and still sits around with her mouth open... But I only kept her alive by the wonderful people on this sites advise and wisdom they know much more than I do...

I was interested in your success with vitamin supplements. How did you administer them? I can't see you Maxy very well. Is that an Oustalets? Verucosus? I have wanted to get one of those but have had no chance to observe them or their temperaments. What's yours like? Kathy