So my camillion little foot has a vet who is one of the top 12 vets in America. I took her under a month ago and my vet said that she rarely would tell someone they were doing perfect. But I was at that perfect level. My camillian's humidity is normally between 30 and 50 during the day time 72 a 100 at night time. Her temperature ranges between 69 and 74 at night time and 77 to 83 during the day. She has live and fake plants and a bio active tank lots of different live creatures due to being In a bio active tank Iso pods red centipedes flies Dubai roaches horn worms mill worms crickets wax worms are all in the tank she. Has the choice to free eat and I give her crickets at a Certain time everyday. She has a water fountain that's charcoal filtered 75 intense heat lamp and the T5 light that fits her tank not sure what's going on with her. But she's had the same color pattern for about a week. I've never seen this coloring pattern on her before. She normally gets up between 630 and 7 o'clock every morning and goes to bed between 630 and 7 o'clock at night for the past. Week she's been sleeping till noon and not sleeping until 830 at night. Just trying to figure out if anyone has any ideas seeing that my vet can't seem to find anything wrong.
Sleeping alot
- Thread starter Onnie.g
- Start date
Lt.WorfReportingForDuty
Established Member
Has anything changed in the environment like lights left on? Are the lights on a timer that maybe was affected by daylight savings time or something?
Could she be gravid or egg bound?
Could she be gravid or egg bound?
She's showing gravid colors but not trying to dig and she's sleeping later n staying up longer
She's moving but not nearly as much
Yes I have a 8 in lay Ben in cage she's never layer b4 and my vet said she probably wouldn't until for a few months but she's definitely showing gravid colors but doesn't look fatter
No change in environment yho
She looks quite plump…I would think she’s producing eggs…and if you’ve been overfeeding her, she likely has a large clutch. I just hope she’s not eggbound or suffering from follicular stasis.
Please post some photos of her cage including the lights.
You said…”She has a water fountain that's charcoal filtered 75 intense heat lamp and the T5 light that fits her tank”…is it a tank or a cage? What’s the temperature in the basking area? Not a fan of fountains even when they have a filter on them.
Please post some photos of her cage including the lights.
You said…”She has a water fountain that's charcoal filtered 75 intense heat lamp and the T5 light that fits her tank”…is it a tank or a cage? What’s the temperature in the basking area? Not a fan of fountains even when they have a filter on them.
She free eats for 3 more months my vet is one of 12 in the US for some sort of exotic license she told me bc she was a juvenile that I could continue until she hit a yr she also said she was n the weight range she should be in. I recently found out the colors she's showing are receptive colors so I've been giving her a lil more d3 incase she is making eggs rn she has absolutely NO LUMPS at all that are showing so my vet doesn't want to xray until they are visible and if she does become egg bound we will spay. She has a 12 inch t5 and a 24x24x48 screen enclosure 3 sides are wrapped with backdrop due to hard time with humidity and to give more privacy seeing that I have 7 other animals and she's in the living room she has 2 humidifiers hooked to the cage THAT I USE AT NIGHT FOR HUMIDITY CONTROL until her SMART mister gets her and when it arrives the charcoal waterer will come out as well she has a 10 inch egg lay bin with washed play sand organic soil mix and a bio active tank with live and fake cover and plants I'm just worried bc she has been sleeping in till 12 pm everyday which is 6 hrs past her normal wake up time....once she's awake she's very active but not eating as much and crawling EVERYWHERE
But no change in anything on my part
Yeah don't really WANT a fountain it's just there till smart mister is delivered
Attachments
MzLaurie11
Avid Member
One thing about vieleds especially females is they like to eat plants. So i would remove anything with a fake leaf or fake moss on it so she doesnt take a nibble and get impacted. I was told to cover only two sides so ventalation stays good and lack of ventalation can cause them to close eyes. Also if she is receptive she should not be able to see any males and visa versa. with a cage that size the linear ubv should be 24" with a high out put bulb to get as deep as possible. I know its a bioactive setup and you should have a cleanup crew to eat the dead things so you dont create a patasite issue. I think rainbowmealworms.com sell cleanup crews.
I have a extremely large clean up crew of different isopods I'll take one side off n see if that helps but she's the only cham so she can't see any males
Als
O sh3 just hot moved to this large tank so we're are waiting on mister and 24 inch t5 fixture she was n a 18x18x24 until 2 weeks ago
@MissSkittles can you jump in on this one when you have time?
You said…”She free eats for 3 more months my vet is one of 12 in the US for some sort of exotic license she told me bc she was a juvenile that I could continue until she hit a yr she also said she was n the weight range she should be in“…never heard of there only being 12 vets with some special exotics degree…what’s the degree called?
As for the eating, if she’s fed too much as she is approaching sexual maturity, she will likely produce a large clutch of eggs and likely develop follicular stasis and/or egg binding and could die for it. To prevent this from happening it’s recommended that female veiled be put on a “diet” and the temperatures kept at or below 80F toprevenr this from happening.
You said…”I recently found out the colors she's showing are receptive colors so I've been giving her a lil more d3 incase she is making eggs rn she has absolutely NO LUMPS at all that are showing so my vet doesn't want to xray until they are visible and if she does become egg bound we will spay“…from the time the female starts showing the receptive colours it’s usually only 30 to 40 days until the eggs are laid. Why would you increase the D3? D3 and calcium (and phos and vitamin A) need to be in balance and D3 from supplements can build up in the system and lead to health issues…as can preformed vitamin A…so we are careful with them. How often have you been using the D3 up until now?
You said…”She has a 10 inch egg lay bin with washed play sand organic soil mix and a bio active tank with live and fake cover and plants“…I would get rid of the fake plants to be sure she can’t eat any and become impacted.
You said…”I'm just worried bc she has been sleeping in till 12 pm everyday which is 6 hrs past her normal wake up time....once she's awake she's very active but not eating as much and crawling EVERYWHERE”…she could be looking for a place to lay eggs. I’m concerned with the sleeping during the day though.
One more concern for now, if she starts to go down hill…becomes lethargic, sits low in the cage, etc, get her to a vet asap before it’s too late to help her.
As for the eating, if she’s fed too much as she is approaching sexual maturity, she will likely produce a large clutch of eggs and likely develop follicular stasis and/or egg binding and could die for it. To prevent this from happening it’s recommended that female veiled be put on a “diet” and the temperatures kept at or below 80F toprevenr this from happening.
You said…”I recently found out the colors she's showing are receptive colors so I've been giving her a lil more d3 incase she is making eggs rn she has absolutely NO LUMPS at all that are showing so my vet doesn't want to xray until they are visible and if she does become egg bound we will spay“…from the time the female starts showing the receptive colours it’s usually only 30 to 40 days until the eggs are laid. Why would you increase the D3? D3 and calcium (and phos and vitamin A) need to be in balance and D3 from supplements can build up in the system and lead to health issues…as can preformed vitamin A…so we are careful with them. How often have you been using the D3 up until now?
You said…”She has a 10 inch egg lay bin with washed play sand organic soil mix and a bio active tank with live and fake cover and plants“…I would get rid of the fake plants to be sure she can’t eat any and become impacted.
You said…”I'm just worried bc she has been sleeping in till 12 pm everyday which is 6 hrs past her normal wake up time....once she's awake she's very active but not eating as much and crawling EVERYWHERE”…she could be looking for a place to lay eggs. I’m concerned with the sleeping during the day though.
One more concern for now, if she starts to go down hill…becomes lethargic, sits low in the cage, etc, get her to a vet asap before it’s too late to help her.
MissSkittles
Chameleon Enthusiast
Hi. Why are there worm casings in your food dish with the crickets and superworms? What supplements are you using and how often for each?
