Some concerns.

[carbyville]

I'll be moving to either crickets or super worms soon. I'm not sure how I feel about crickets, I can't stand them. Would super worms be better?

If you get a cricket container with the tubes, you won't even have to touch them. They'll go into the tube, you pull the tube out and shake them out into whatever you use to dust your feeders (I use a tall deli cup) and then I pour them into the cage or her feeding cup (I switch off so she can still hunt). I can probably count on my hands how many times I've had to actually touch a cricket in the last two months, and they don't even bother me.

 

[JaniP]

I use the cricket keeper and then transfer them from the tubes in to a tall protein shaker with the drinking cap that has a big mouth hole. I put the lid in and I can dump whatever I'm dusting with in the mouth hole, close it and shake it up and then open only the mouth hole cap to dump them in to his bowl, and they are too stunned to jump out for a little bit. I've never had to touch one that way

 

[Candybugs]

Crickets are kind of a staple food .I used tongs to not have to touch them. I just had one in my shirt and I'm glad I was alone cuz that shirt flew across the room. Good luck. You can do it.

 

[Prichtofu]

Crickets are more nutritious than superworms because they are less fatty, and they hold more of the nutritious gutload that you should be feeding them before hand.

Bugs are a way of life with a Chameleon, if you want a healthy little guy then you'll have to get used to them. You can feed crickets without ever having to touch them with all the keeper systems out there - they creep me out too.

But - all things need variety. You should give him a variety of different bugs - no one wants to eat the same thing all the time!

I don't care about the bugs themselves, but I really hate bugs that make noise. I'm a very light sleeper and crickets keep me awake.

 

[MelissaB]

I don't care about the bugs themselves, but I really hate bugs that make noise. I'm a very light sleeper and crickets keep me awake.

I only buy the 1/2 inch crickets, for that very reason. They don't usually start chirping until they reach 3/4 inch size or so. The 1/2 inch are big enough for my panthers, as long as I give them enough of them.

My husband made a cricket run for me, and the lady thought he said 3/4 when he said 1/4. Ugh, can't wait until the noisy ones are all gone!

Dubia roaches are quiet and easy, if your chameleons will eat them, and if you can get over the "roaches in the house" factor. I dislike them, but keep a colony going just in case I can't get crickets and to give them some variety. They creep me out. Banana roaches are a nice treat, too. They don't creep me out at all, maybe because they're green.

 

[JaniP]

I don't care about the bugs themselves, but I really hate bugs that make noise. I'm a very light sleeper and crickets keep me awake.

These are things to consider before getting this type of pet, then. They need a variety of bugs. You'll have a very miserable Cham if he's eating nothing but super worms.

Crickets only start chirping at the end of their life cycle so if you get smaller amounts of them, and younger ones (your little guy wouldn't be eating bigger ones for a long time anyway) you won't have a problem.

Again, they shouldn't be a "staple diet". Offer many different types of bugs to him as he grows.

 

[SocialNumb]

Like they said, no wings, no chirp. Get the young crickets for the young Cham. They're like walking little bags or whatever you feed them so feed them well. As if you were feeding your Cham.

 

[Prichtofu]

I only buy the 1/2 inch crickets, for that very reason. They don't usually start chirping until they reach 3/4 inch size or so. The 1/2 inch are big enough for my panthers, as long as I give them enough of them.

My husband made a cricket run for me, and the lady thought he said 3/4 when he said 1/4. Ugh, can't wait until the noisy ones are all gone!

Dubia roaches are quiet and easy, if your chameleons will eat them, and if you can get over the "roaches in the house" factor. I dislike them, but keep a colony going just in case I can't get crickets and to give them some variety. They creep me out. Banana roaches are a nice treat, too. They don't creep me out at all, maybe because they're green.

They're easy to deal with if you call them Papaya flower beetles!

 

[Prichtofu]

So last night I removed the waterfall and didn't use the red light at night and he seemed a lot more awake this morning, he didn't sleep at all with the lights on. Maybe the light was keeping him awake...?

 

[Lathis]

Definitely. Chameleons can see the red light through a special light- perceptive scale on the top of the head (parietal eye). It is very sensitive and can sense red light. This is one of the many common pieces if bad advice given to new keepers we see on the Forum. He should recover quickly if you leave him totally dark at night. He won't get cold at night. Chams like and need the temperature drop over night.

Then, if you see him sleeping during the day, it will be a sign of illness.

 

[Prichtofu]

Definitely. Chameleons can see the red light through a special light- perceptive scale on the top of the head (parietal eye). It is very sensitive and can sense red light. This is one of the many common pieces if bad advice given to new keepers we see on the Forum. He should recover quickly if you leave him totally dark at night. He won't get cold at night. Chams like and need the temperature drop over night.

Then, if you see him sleeping during the day, it will be a sign of illness.

Awesome, I really hope this is all it is. I got him from a pet store (dumb mistake, I know) but he appeared to be in relatively good health. I'm really hoping this fixes everything. I'll continue to update! You guys are the best!

 

[kinyonga]

I would recommend that you feed the chameleon a variety of well fed and gutloaded insects. You can feed / gutload the crickets, superworms, roaches, locusts with a wide variety of greens such as collards, escarole, endive, dandelion greens, kale, etc and veggies such as carrots, sweet red pepper, squash, zucchini, sweet potato, etc

It's important to supplement the chameleon properly. Since most feeder insects have a poor ratio of calcium to phosphorous we recommend dusting with a phosphorous - free calcium powder at most feedings.

It's also recommended that you dust twice a month with a phosphorous - free calcium / D3 powder to ensure that the chameleon gets some D3 without overdosing it and leaving the chameleon to produce the rest of the D3 from its exposure to the UVB. D3 produced from exposure to UVB won't likely build up in the system and lead to overdoses like D3 from supplements can as long as the chameleon can move in and out of the UVB when it wants to.

It's recommended that you dust twice a month with a vitamin powder that contains a beta carotene ( prOformed ) source of vitamin A. PrOformed sources of vitamin A cannot build up in the system and lead to overdoses like prEformed sources can and this leaves the owner of the chameleon uncharted of deciding whether to give everyone the chameleon any prEformed or not.

Appropriate temperatures allow the chameleon to digest its food properly and thus plays a part in nutrient absorption.

Hope this helps!

 

[Prichtofu]

I would recommend that you feed the chameleon a variety of well fed and gutloaded insects. You can feed / gutload the crickets, superworms, roaches, locusts with a wide variety of greens such as collards, escarole, endive, dandelion greens, kale, etc and veggies such as carrots, sweet red pepper, squash, zucchini, sweet potato, etc

It's important to supplement the chameleon properly. Since most feeder insects have a poor ratio of calcium to phosphorous we recommend dusting with a phosphorous - free calcium powder at most feedings.

It's also recommended that you dust twice a month with a phosphorous - free calcium / D3 powder to ensure that the chameleon gets some D3 without overdosing it and leaving the chameleon to produce the rest of the D3 from its exposure to the UVB. D3 produced from exposure to UVB won't likely build up in the system and lead to overdoses like D3 from supplements can as long as the chameleon can move in and out of the UVB when it wants to.

It's recommended that you dust twice a month with a vitamin powder that contains a beta carotene ( prOformed ) source of vitamin A. PrOformed sources of vitamin A cannot build up in the system and lead to overdoses like prEformed sources can and this leaves the owner of the chameleon uncharted of deciding whether to give everyone the chameleon any prEformed or not.

Appropriate temperatures allow the chameleon to digest its food properly and thus plays a part in nutrient absorption.

Hope this helps!

Thank you for this!

 

[unixmiah]

Give him crickets for now-- small chameleons require more moisture and misting. Make sure to give him shady spots also.

I have my 6 weeks old Panther in a 60% glass / 40% screen cage. My 4 months Veiled used to be in there but I got him a 100% screen cage. It's hard to keep moisture/humidity in a screen cage. But Chameleons should have all screen cages-- you don't want a stuffy environment.

Chameleons sleeping during the day is not a good sign.

 

[unixmiah]

You should put real plants in the cage. You cannot use any plants. Most Veiled, like yours will chew on leaves-- that's why you need to get something that's not bad for them. There are a list of Chameleon safe plants but its hard to find-- some you might need to go to the amazon to get them. lol

You can go to home depot and get Pothos or even in local Grocery store they'll have pothos for sure- if you can get habiscus that would be great. Just make sure when you get it from Home Depot and Lowes you need to rinse out the pesticides before you stick it in the cage.

Chameleons know difference between fake and real plants-- they really like drinking water from the leaves, you should spray the leaves sometimes. My small Panther loves the real plant I put in there, not every night he sleeps on the branch vs. he would never hangout on the fake plant, just walk on it.

 

[Prichtofu]

Today's update:

Yesterday after his first night with the red lamp off, he slept a little bit in the morning but was noticeably more awake and alert. Today after his second dark night, he hasn't slept at all with the lights on and is actually climbing around his cage, walking around on the ground, just exploring and doing things rather than just sitting on a perch and sleeping or doing nothing.

After some adjustments, he now has high perches and low perches, both in the light and in the shade, and a small drinking glass at the base of one of the lower plants, no more waterfall. All seems to be going well! I'll continue to update in the following days just to make sure everything is still going smoothly.

Thanks again everyone for all your help, I'm glad we have gotten this mostly sorted out, I was worried for my little guy, and he may not have made it much longer if I hadn't posted here.

 

[JaniP]

I'm glad to hear there is improvement! Best of luck

 

[PatsyB]

Glad to hear things are getting better. Everyone here has such great advise! Being in central WI you should check out Dr. Foster and Smith they are in Steven's Point. They usually have lots of sales on reptile stuff.

My parents live in Wautoma AKA "the middle of nowhere"!

 

[Candybugs]

LLL REPTILE SUPPLY CO. Has great prices and sizes of screen reptarium and shipping is always 6 bucks

 

[Prichtofu]

Glad to hear things are getting better. Everyone here has such great advise! Being in central WI you should check out Dr. Foster and Smith they are in Steven's Point. They usually have lots of sales on reptile stuff.

My parents live in Wautoma AKA "the middle of nowhere"!

I live in Wausau (about 25 minutes away from Point) so I will definitely check them out!