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Not with your cham in there, I hope! I'd worry something like that could wipe out his GOOD bacteria.Once a month I use very diluted f10 in my water for fogger
Oh. This is the lows they experience in nature and the corresponding dew point on an average. So it is based on observation vs some kind of formula.@CasqueAbove thank you!
Can you expand on that? I’m afraid I don’t understand what you’re getting at
what do these animals that live in cloud forests do? Is the assertion that “fogging” is thicker “real fog”
No hole. Just the air circulation of being outside.There is a hole somewhere in the logic or wild Florida would have RI.
...and RH. The only time droplets will expand is if the RH (regardless of temp) is already at/near 100%.This is my thought.
The water droplets will either expand or shrink depending on temp. Correct?
No, not entirely. Temp of droplets may raise/lower body temp. (at least in the lung at first) either way, depending on Δt.So if an animal inhales droplets above body temp those droplets can condense creating fluid in the lungs. If an animal inhalescooldroplets [cooler than body temp] they will warm and expand staying gas form and able to be exhaled properly.
Does this make sense ?
I understand your situation. And anything can be overdone.I originally heard it in a podcast that Bill did. It was that temps should be below 67-68... I believe due to keepers keeping them hotter at night that it would be more dangerous to fog with temps higher and could contribute to respiratory infections. So since they need a night time drop anyways then you would do it only when temps are below that range.
I stopped fogging though. My temps were lower then the range. But the urates were like water. So then I was told I was over hydrating them. That the urate should have form.... But they were always like water. Within a few weeks of stopping fogging the urates were normal with form and white.
OK I know it is not as simple as I make it sound, and I am not stating fact of course. Only if this theory may have something to do with it....and RH. The only time droplets will expand is if the RH (regardless of temp) is already at/near 100%.
Changing temp will also change RH.
No, not entirely. Temp of droplets may raise/lower body temp. (at least in the lung at first) either way, depending on Δt.
I totally agree that it’s a tool, and I think it can be used effectively. I think their ability to raise humidity to 90-100% at night both mimics nature and prevents a water deficit that will occur overnight at low humidity levels. If the humidity is low at night, they will use their body water to humidify the air before it reaches their lungs. Over an extended period, this could lead to dehydration and kidney dysfunction and a whole host of other health problemsOne thing I think gets confused alot, and I don't fully understand. But we use the terms "Fog, as in fogger" , Humidity, and hot humid, aka steam sort of. These are three different things. I think this causes confusion. Foggeres should be thought of as a tool to raise ambient humidity. Not that they need to be inhaling fog. The hot humid fear I believe is distorted. If we use a fogger, with heat we will create steam. This is bad.
This is my thought.
The water droplets will either expand or shrink depending on temp. Correct?
So if an animal inhales droplets above body temp those droplets can condense creating fluid in the lungs. If an animal inhales cool droplets they will warm and expand staying gas form and able to be exhaled properly.
Does this make sense ?
There are definitely different humidity and temperature pockets that occur throughout our enclosures. I have a small glass terrarium 18x18x24 that I keep a gargoyle gecko in. It has a basking bulb on a dimming thermostat set to 80 F at an upper basking branch, a 7% shade dweller UVB, and a Sansi LED fixture. I have two sensorpush sensors in the cage. One is up high on the opposite side as the basking bulb, and one is down low more towards the middle. They have significantly different readings most times of the day. I have a fogger run by a herpstat set to 85% RH so it only runs for a few minutes several times per night. I mist for 15 seconds twice per day, once at 0730, once at 1930 I also have a fan on a dimming cord that creates gentle airflow during the dayI've noticed a phenomenon with enclosure humidity that isn't often discussed, which has influenced my not using a fogger. I've measured humidity inside the canopy of a plant up to 10% higher than humidity out in the open, and it's usually under the canopy that chameleons sleep. Natural air flow doesn't seem to affect this much; IDK about enclosures with fans.
Me too. Plug it in. Pair to the phone (push the pair to phone button). Done. Put it where you likeDude... I'm technologically challenged.
And the sensors run on batteries. The plug it in part is the “gateway” that will log the data for youMe too. Plug it in. Pair to the phone (push the pair to phone button). Done. Put it where you like
No, you don't understand. I don't own a cell phone, much less a smart phone.Me too. Plug it in. Pair to the phone (push the pair to phone button). Done. Put it where you like
No, you don't understand. I don't own a cell phone, much less a smart phone.
Long ago, in a galaxy far, far away... I used to be more savvy, but... nevermind—long irrelevant story.
not with him in.Not with your cham in there, I hope! I'd worry something like that could wipe out his GOOD bacteria.
15c =59f and 37c = 98.6f. I think both are wrong!Pseudomonas is frequently noted as a common respiratory pathogen causing RI
Unfortunately it’s also ubiquitous in the environment and occurs at some level all around us and our lizards at all times
that’s one of my issues with the Madcham article. It states 15 C is it’s optimum temp which is not true. Although it can survive and reproduce at low temperatures, any scientific literature will say it’s optimum temp is 37 C and in fact many of its virulence factors (stuff that makes it damage hosts) are less active or non-existent at lower temps