Swollen casque and forced exhales

[Nadya_a16]

Thank you for the comments I didn’t have notifications from the forum so I didn’t think I had any responses yet! Here’s some info about my boy.

• Your Chameleon - The species, sex, and age of your chameleon. How long has it been in your care?

Karma is a male veiled chameleon and he’s about 1 year and 8 months old and he has been in my care for 1 year and 5 months. I purchased him from Petco when he was 3 months old.

• Handling - How often do you handle your chameleon?

I handle him about 2 times a week he’s always been very sweet as long as I’m the one who takes him out of the cage he’ll bite anyone else that tries but once he’s out he’s happy to adventure and meet new people but hesitant sometimes and prefers to climb on me and stay on my shoulders or travel to the top of my head if he wants to come out he’ll grab for me but if he’s not in the mood he’ll shy away and I’ll leave him alone but he’s got happy colors when he does wanna come out

• Feeding - What are you feeding your cham? What amount? What is the schedule? How are you gut-loading your feeders?

I feed him about 6 large crickets everyday I use to dust with repti calcium without D3 every other feeding but the vet recommended every feeding. The crickets were eating Fluker’s orange cube complete cricket diet but I started giving them cutie orange slices since the crickets are providing extra supplements by being dusted and the oranges seem to keep them more hydrated and alive. I also use to give him hornworms as treats and organic dandelion greens from sprouts, strawberries as treats, and wax worms once in a blue moon but wax worms aren’t his favorite so not anymore, he use to have a live pothos plant but he tore it to shreds and I haven’t been able to get my hands on another organic one since because it’s so hard to find them without pesticides or other junk that could hurt him. The vet recommended dubia roaches but I’ve been breeding crickets that I get from Amazon from (buyfeedercrickets). And I’m too afraid to shy from crickets since I’m worried about his condition.

• Supplements - What brand and type of calcium and vitamin products are you dusting your feeders with and what is the schedule?

As I provided above I feed him about 6 large crickets everyday I use to dust with repti calcium without D3 every other feeding but the vet recommended every feeding. The crickets were eating Fluker’s orange cube complete cricket diet but I started giving them cutie orange slices since the crickets are providing extra supplements by being dusted and the oranges seem to keep them more hydrated and alive.

• Watering - What kind of watering technique do you use? How often and how long to you mist? Do you see your chameleon drinking?

He has a gallon dripper system that lands in a pool at the bottom of his cage he will either shoot his tongue at the falling droplets or dip his mouth in the pool at the bottom. I mist him once in the morning and once in the afternoon with a spray bottle I have and occasionally he’ll lick droplets off the fake plants in the cage. His urates are always white with that little bit of yellow at the end so I know he’s hydrated enough. I clean the pool out everyday when I pick up his droppings with tweezers he will sometimes poop in the pool every morning so that’s when I clean it out with soap and hot water.

• Fecal Description - Briefly note colors and consistency from recent droppings. Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites?

He has tested negative for parasites his poops are firm and solid I can sometimes see undigested cricket legs in them but I will provide pictures of recent droppings. He just passed some odd droppings this morning a rather large and yellow urate and large poo.

• History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you.

As I’ve mentioned previously during the snow storm and power outage he got too close to the top of his cage and got a little burn on the top of his casque it has since been treated and healed by a silver sulfadiazine cream. He had outgrown his old cage and I hadn’t had any problems with him getting too close to the top until the power outages. I hear little forced exhales from him now from time to time but he’s still strong and has a strong grip and he still wanders around the cage doing his little rounds eats and drinks. This problem with the swollen casque has persisted for about 3 months with no decline he’s still the same with the swollen casque and has had 3 vet visits he was on antibiotics ceftazidime (Fortaz was the brand name I was told. He finished those injections a month ago 2mL every 3 days alternate arms I had to give him myself but it seemed like such a small dose. I have tried handling him less but he will climb on the cage door which I call his little tantrums and when I open it he wants to come out. So other than the casque and little forced exhales he’s my normal happy guy he hasn’t gotten any better but also hasn’t gotten worse I just fear for the possibility of him getting worse.

Cage Info:

• Cage Type - Describe your cage (Glass, Screen, Combo?) What are the dimensions?

I have an exo terra screen cage dimensions are 18 x 23.5 x 35 inches the top of the cage is 63 inches from the floor.

• Lighting - What brand, model, and types of lighting are you using? What is your daily lighting schedule?

Basking branch is about 7 inches from top of screen cage and 9 inches total away from the bulb. The lighting bulb is a mercury vapor bulb that the vet recommended for him and it has been tested for UV output and heat and has passed it should be replaced in about 6 months I believe so it will continue to provide enough UV output I can’t remember the brand or model but it’s got a dome cover and has been tested to make sure it’s providing for him. His light is on a zoo med outlet timer that turns on at 7:30am when he usually wakes up and turns off at 9pm when he’s ready for bed I also cover his cage with a blanket at night so no other lights will disturb him while he’s sleeping.

• Temperature - What temp range have you created (cage floor to basking spot)? Lowest overnight temp? How do you measure these temps?

Basking branch is about 7 inches from top of screen cage and 9 inches total away from the bulb. The basking temperature on his branch is about 100 degrees F and the bottom of the cage is about 70 degrees F the lowest overnight temp is 70 degrees. I measure these using a zoomed digital thermometer and a bio dude thermometer and humidity gauge. My bio dude battery just died so I need new batteries.

• Humidity - What are your humidity levels? How are you creating and maintaining these levels? What do you use to measure humidity?

Humidity levels would range from 70% after a misting and get down to 30% before another misting with spray bottle. I am looking to install plexiglass on three sides of his cage to help conserve this humidity and also so I can get an automatic mister for him. I measured these levels with a bio dude dual humidity gauge and thermometer but my batteries just died so I need to get new ones. I will only use plexiglass if it is not reflective so he won’t get irritated by his reflection I’ve heard that can happen. I hope to get some live plants so also help with the humidity.

• Plants - Are you using live plants? If so, what kind?

Haven’t been able to get my hands on another organic pothos if anyone has recommendations for stores or sites I could get some veiled friendly live plants that’d be great but just plastic ones for now.

• Placement - Where is your cage located? Is it near any fans, air vents, or high traffic areas? At what height is the top of the cage relative to your room floor?

He is by my bedroom window but I usually keep the blinds closed and only open them on nice sunny days for him. No vents there is a fan on my ceiling but I never use it. And I’m the only one in my room so no high traffic.

• Location - Where are you geographically located?

I live in Lewisville, Texas which is upper east Texas.

Current Problem - The current problem you are concerned about.

Swollen casque and forced exhales from time to time they sound like tiny sneezes almost.

 

[kinyonga]

Sorry you didn't get a reply to your other thread...
https://www.chameleonforums.com/threads/swollen-casque.182275/
Once in a while things get missed.

Welcome to the forum!
It will take a while to read your post here and answer...it's long!

His right elbow is showing possible signs of MBD.
His urates are pretty orange so he needs some hydration.
More to follow.

 

[kinyonga]

You said..."Thank you for the comments I didn’t have notifications from the forum so I didn’t think I had any responses yet! Here’s some info about my boy"...sorry for th delay in answering... it's been a bad day here.

You said.."Karma is a male veiled chameleon and he’s about 1 year and 8 months old and he has been in my care for 1 year and 5 months. I purchased him from Petco when he was 3 months old"...have you made any husbandry changes since you got him?

You said..."I handle him about 2 times a week he’s always been very sweet as long as I’m the one who takes him out of the cage he’ll bite anyone else that tries but once he’s out he’s happy to adventure and meet new people but hesitant sometimes and prefers to climb on me and stay on my shoulders or travel to the top of my head if he wants to come out he’ll grab for me but if he’s not in the mood he’ll shy away and I’ll leave him alone but he’s got happy colors when he does wanna come out "...amazing how they can trust some people and be defensive of others!

Please post a couple more photos of him from the side.
you said..."I feed him about 6 large crickets everyday I use to dust with repti calcium without D3 every other feeding but the vet recommended every feeding"...at his age he should only be fed two or three times a week about 4 large crickets (or equal calorie value of other insects).
You said..."The crickets were eating Fluker’s orange cube complete cricket diet but I started giving them cutie orange slices since the crickets are providing extra supplements by being dusted and the oranges seem to keep them more hydrated and alive"...I would dump the orange cubes...they're not the best choice. I would feed the crickets, roaches, locusts, superworms a variety of greens such as dandelion greens, collards, kale,endive, escarole and veggies such as sweet potatoes, zucchini, squash, sweet red peppers, carrots and a very very small amount of fruit such as berries, apples, pears, melon, cantaloupe, etc.
You said..." I also use to give him hornworms as treats and organic dandelion greens from sprouts, strawberries as treats, and wax worms once in a blue moon but wax worms aren’t his favorite so not anymore"...they don't really eat vegetables and fruits in the wild. IMHO it's better to feed the fruits and veggies , etc. The insects.

You said..."he use to have a live pothos plant but he tore it to shreds and I haven’t been able to get my hands on another organic one since because it’s so hard to find them without pesticides or other junk that could hurt him"...it's not necessary for them to be organic...you can wash "ordinary" ones well...both sides of the leaves and either change out the soil or wash it thoroughly. Add rocks that are too big for the chameleon to possibly ingest.

You said..."The vet recommended dubia roaches but I’ve been breeding crickets that I get from Amazon from (buyfeedercrickets). And I’m too afraid to shy from crickets since I’m worried about his condition"...roaches would be a good addition.

You said..."As I provided above I feed him about 6 large crickets everyday I use to dust with repti calcium without D3 every other feeding but the vet recommended every feeding"...the vet is correct. In addition to this, you should be dusting once every second week with a phos free calcium/D3 powder and one day on alternate weeks with a vitamin powder that contains a prEformed source of vitamin A. All powders should be dusted lightly.

You said..."He has a gallon dripper system that lands in a pool at the bottom of his cage he will either shoot his tongue at the falling droplets or dip his mouth in the pool at the bottom"...poolsmare very hard to keep bacteria free so aren't recommended. I know you said you clean it well.

You said..."I mist him once in the morning and once in the afternoon with a spray bottle I have and occasionally he’ll lick droplets off the fake plants in the cage"...good.

You said..."He has tested negative for parasites his poops are firm and solid I can sometimes see undigested cricket legs in them but I will provide pictures of recent droppings. He just passed some odd droppings this morning a rather large and yellow urate and large poo"...good that you had him tested.

You said...."I hear little forced exhales from him now from time to time but he’s still strong and has a strong grip and he still wanders around the cage doing his little rounds eats and drinks"...does he raise his nose in the air and gape when he does this?

You said...." This problem with the swollen casque has persisted for about 3 months with no decline he’s still the same with the swollen casque and has had 3 vet visits he was on antibiotics ceftazidime (Fortaz was the brand name I was told. He finished those injections a month ago 2mL every 3 days alternate arms I had to give him myself but it seemed like such a small dose. I have tried handling him less but he will climb on the cage door which I call his little tantrums and when I open it he wants to come out. So other than the casque and little forced exhales he’s my normal happy guy he hasn’t gotten any better but also hasn’t gotten worse I just fear for the possibility of him getting worse"... What did the vet say about the casque?

You said..."I have an exo terra screen cage dimensions are 18 x 23.5 x 35 inches the top of the cage is 63 inches from the floor"...

You said..."Basking branch is about 7 inches from top of screen cage and 9 inches total away from the bulb. The lighting bulb is a mercury vapor bulb that the vet recommended for him and it has been tested for UV output and heat and has passed it should be replaced in about 6 months I believe so it will continue to provide enough UV output I can’t remember the brand or model but it’s got a dome cover and has been tested to make sure it’s providing for him. His light is on a zoo med outlet timer that turns on at 7:30am when he usually wakes up and turns off at 9pm when he’s ready for bed I also cover his cage with a blanket at night so no other lights will disturb him while he’s sleeping"... The lighting needs some work. I'll leave it up to @Beman to help you with that.

You said..."Basking branch is about 7 inches from top of screen cage and 9 inches total away from the bulb. The basking temperature on his branch is about 100 degrees F and the bottom of the cage is about 70 degrees F the lowest overnight temp is 70 degrees. I measure these using a zoomed digital thermometer and a bio dude thermometer and humidity gauge. My bio dude battery just died so I need new batteries"...100F is way too warm 80 to 82 F would be much better.

You said..."Humidity levels would range from 70% after a misting and get down to 30% before another misting with spray bottle. I am looking to install plexiglass on three sides of his cage to help conserve this humidity and also so I can get an automatic mister for him. I measured these levels with a bio dude dual humidity gauge and thermometer but my batteries just died so I need to get new ones. I will only use plexiglass if it is not reflective so he won’t get irritated by his reflection I’ve heard that can happen. I hope to get some live plants so also help with the humidity"...

You said..."plastic ones for now"...plastic is not recommended because if ingested they can cause impaction.

You said..."He is by my bedroom window but I usually keep the blinds closed and only open them on nice sunny days for him. No vents there is a fan on my ceiling but I never use it. And I’m the only one in my room so no high traffic"...

You, said..."I live in Lewisville, Texas which is upper east Texas"...

You said..."Swollen casque and forced exhales from time to time they sound like tiny sneezes almost"...
Casque...
https://chameleonacademy.com/chameleon-medical-obesity/

A lack of proper supplements and lighting may be part of your chameleons issues....more on this later too.

 

[Beman]

MV bulbs are extremely dangerous for chams. They produce much too high of a UVI level and heat level. Casque looks like it has had a thermal burn. If swelling is recent then I am betting on infection from thermal burn.

 

[Nadya_a16]

MV bulbs are extremely dangerous for chams. They produce much too high of a UVI level and heat level. Casque looks like it has had a thermal burn. If swelling is recent then I am betting on infection from thermal burn.

I’m starting to think his main issue might be that he’s just fat. Could overeating cause forced exhales and puffy cheeks? With how much I’m feeding him I would 100% say after reading from chameleon academy that his swollen casque is just fat.

 

[Nadya_a16]

MV bulbs are extremely dangerous for chams. They produce much too high of a UVI level and heat level. Casque looks like it has had a thermal burn. If swelling is recent then I am betting on infection from thermal burn.

Also It looks like I’ve been mislead by my vet I will definitely be getting him a new light and fixing his temp at his basking branch luckily he’s only had this new light for almost 2 months.

 

[Beman]

I’m starting to think his main issue might be that he’s just fat. Could overeating cause forced exhales and puffy cheeks? With how much I’m feeding him I would 100% say after reading from chameleon academy that his swollen casque is just fat.

Also It looks like I’ve been mislead by my vet I will definitely be getting him a new light and fixing his temp at his basking branch luckily he’s only had this new light for almost 2 months.

So when did the swelling start? The thing is his legs are slim.. Can you post more pics of him for me please. I just want a few more details here because my concern is the potential for the swelling to be from infection due to a thermal burn. This can really mess them up. So if it was a sudden over the last few weeks thing then it is more then likely infection and fat.

But yes you are over feeding him. He should only get 3 feeders 3 days a week.

But the high heat needs to be reduced to a basking temp between 80-85max.
You want a T5HO fixture with a 5.0 uvb bulb. This should run the width of the cage and sit on top. Then basking needs to be about 8-9 inches below for the correct UVI level of approximately a 3.

 

[kinyonga]

@Beman said..."The thing is his legs are slim"... That has been bothering me too....but his little body is bothering me more.

Can you post a couple more photos of him so we can see all of him from the side please?

 

[Erica1884]

Thank you for the comments I didn’t have notifications from the forum so I didn’t think I had any responses yet! Here’s some info about my boy.

• Your Chameleon - The species, sex, and age of your chameleon. How long has it been in your care?

Karma is a male veiled chameleon and he’s about 1 year and 8 months old and he has been in my care for 1 year and 5 months. I purchased him from Petco when he was 3 months old.

• Handling - How often do you handle your chameleon?

I handle him about 2 times a week he’s always been very sweet as long as I’m the one who takes him out of the cage he’ll bite anyone else that tries but once he’s out he’s happy to adventure and meet new people but hesitant sometimes and prefers to climb on me and stay on my shoulders or travel to the top of my head if he wants to come out he’ll grab for me but if he’s not in the mood he’ll shy away and I’ll leave him alone but he’s got happy colors when he does wanna come out

• Feeding - What are you feeding your cham? What amount? What is the schedule? How are you gut-loading your feeders?

I feed him about 6 large crickets everyday I use to dust with repti calcium without D3 every other feeding but the vet recommended every feeding. The crickets were eating Fluker’s orange cube complete cricket diet but I started giving them cutie orange slices since the crickets are providing extra supplements by being dusted and the oranges seem to keep them more hydrated and alive. I also use to give him hornworms as treats and organic dandelion greens from sprouts, strawberries as treats, and wax worms once in a blue moon but wax worms aren’t his favorite so not anymore, he use to have a live pothos plant but he tore it to shreds and I haven’t been able to get my hands on another organic one since because it’s so hard to find them without pesticides or other junk that could hurt him. The vet recommended dubia roaches but I’ve been breeding crickets that I get from Amazon from (buyfeedercrickets). And I’m too afraid to shy from crickets since I’m worried about his condition.

• Supplements - What brand and type of calcium and vitamin products are you dusting your feeders with and what is the schedule?

As I provided above I feed him about 6 large crickets everyday I use to dust with repti calcium without D3 every other feeding but the vet recommended every feeding. The crickets were eating Fluker’s orange cube complete cricket diet but I started giving them cutie orange slices since the crickets are providing extra supplements by being dusted and the oranges seem to keep them more hydrated and alive.

• Watering - What kind of watering technique do you use? How often and how long to you mist? Do you see your chameleon drinking?

He has a gallon dripper system that lands in a pool at the bottom of his cage he will either shoot his tongue at the falling droplets or dip his mouth in the pool at the bottom. I mist him once in the morning and once in the afternoon with a spray bottle I have and occasionally he’ll lick droplets off the fake plants in the cage. His urates are always white with that little bit of yellow at the end so I know he’s hydrated enough. I clean the pool out everyday when I pick up his droppings with tweezers he will sometimes poop in the pool every morning so that’s when I clean it out with soap and hot water.

• Fecal Description - Briefly note colors and consistency from recent droppings. Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites?

He has tested negative for parasites his poops are firm and solid I can sometimes see undigested cricket legs in them but I will provide pictures of recent droppings. He just passed some odd droppings this morning a rather large and yellow urate and large poo.

• History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you.

As I’ve mentioned previously during the snow storm and power outage he got too close to the top of his cage and got a little burn on the top of his casque it has since been treated and healed by a silver sulfadiazine cream. He had outgrown his old cage and I hadn’t had any problems with him getting too close to the top until the power outages. I hear little forced exhales from him now from time to time but he’s still strong and has a strong grip and he still wanders around the cage doing his little rounds eats and drinks. This problem with the swollen casque has persisted for about 3 months with no decline he’s still the same with the swollen casque and has had 3 vet visits he was on antibiotics ceftazidime (Fortaz was the brand name I was told. He finished those injections a month ago 2mL every 3 days alternate arms I had to give him myself but it seemed like such a small dose. I have tried handling him less but he will climb on the cage door which I call his little tantrums and when I open it he wants to come out. So other than the casque and little forced exhales he’s my normal happy guy he hasn’t gotten any better but also hasn’t gotten worse I just fear for the possibility of him getting worse.

Cage Info:

• Cage Type - Describe your cage (Glass, Screen, Combo?) What are the dimensions?

I have an exo terra screen cage dimensions are 18 x 23.5 x 35 inches the top of the cage is 63 inches from the floor.

• Lighting - What brand, model, and types of lighting are you using? What is your daily lighting schedule?

Basking branch is about 7 inches from top of screen cage and 9 inches total away from the bulb. The lighting bulb is a mercury vapor bulb that the vet recommended for him and it has been tested for UV output and heat and has passed it should be replaced in about 6 months I believe so it will continue to provide enough UV output I can’t remember the brand or model but it’s got a dome cover and has been tested to make sure it’s providing for him. His light is on a zoo med outlet timer that turns on at 7:30am when he usually wakes up and turns off at 9pm when he’s ready for bed I also cover his cage with a blanket at night so no other lights will disturb him while he’s sleeping.

• Temperature - What temp range have you created (cage floor to basking spot)? Lowest overnight temp? How do you measure these temps?

Basking branch is about 7 inches from top of screen cage and 9 inches total away from the bulb. The basking temperature on his branch is about 100 degrees F and the bottom of the cage is about 70 degrees F the lowest overnight temp is 70 degrees. I measure these using a zoomed digital thermometer and a bio dude thermometer and humidity gauge. My bio dude battery just died so I need new batteries.

• Humidity - What are your humidity levels? How are you creating and maintaining these levels? What do you use to measure humidity?

Humidity levels would range from 70% after a misting and get down to 30% before another misting with spray bottle. I am looking to install plexiglass on three sides of his cage to help conserve this humidity and also so I can get an automatic mister for him. I measured these levels with a bio dude dual humidity gauge and thermometer but my batteries just died so I need to get new ones. I will only use plexiglass if it is not reflective so he won’t get irritated by his reflection I’ve heard that can happen. I hope to get some live plants so also help with the humidity.

• Plants - Are you using live plants? If so, what kind?

Haven’t been able to get my hands on another organic pothos if anyone has recommendations for stores or sites I could get some veiled friendly live plants that’d be great but just plastic ones for now.

• Placement - Where is your cage located? Is it near any fans, air vents, or high traffic areas? At what height is the top of the cage relative to your room floor?

He is by my bedroom window but I usually keep the blinds closed and only open them on nice sunny days for him. No vents there is a fan on my ceiling but I never use it. And I’m the only one in my room so no high traffic.

• Location - Where are you geographically located?

I live in Lewisville, Texas which is upper east Texas.

Current Problem - The current problem you are concerned about.

Swollen casque and forced exhales from time to time they sound like tiny sneezes almost.View attachment 300355View attachment 300356View attachment 300357View attachment 300358View attachment 300359View attachment 300360View attachment 300361View attachment 300362View attachment 300363

Respiratory infection. My male veiled was showing no signs of infection but his casque looked the same. The vet actually put a syringe in his casque and sucked out air! He was treated for a respiratory infection and made a full recovery.

 

[Erica1884]

Respiratory infection. My male veiled was showing no signs of infection but his casque looked the same. The vet actually put a syringe in his casque and sucked out air! He was treated for a respiratory infection and made a full recovery.

If you search dwelling of casque and cheeks you can see my thread from back after my boys vet visit . I read yours was already on antibiotics.... maybe there are different kinds? And a different one will do the trick!

 

[Erica1884]

Thank you for the comments I didn’t have notifications from the forum so I didn’t think I had any responses yet! Here’s some info about my boy.

• Your Chameleon - The species, sex, and age of your chameleon. How long has it been in your care?

Karma is a male veiled chameleon and he’s about 1 year and 8 months old and he has been in my care for 1 year and 5 months. I purchased him from Petco when he was 3 months old.

• Handling - How often do you handle your chameleon?

I handle him about 2 times a week he’s always been very sweet as long as I’m the one who takes him out of the cage he’ll bite anyone else that tries but once he’s out he’s happy to adventure and meet new people but hesitant sometimes and prefers to climb on me and stay on my shoulders or travel to the top of my head if he wants to come out he’ll grab for me but if he’s not in the mood he’ll shy away and I’ll leave him alone but he’s got happy colors when he does wanna come out

• Feeding - What are you feeding your cham? What amount? What is the schedule? How are you gut-loading your feeders?

I feed him about 6 large crickets everyday I use to dust with repti calcium without D3 every other feeding but the vet recommended every feeding. The crickets were eating Fluker’s orange cube complete cricket diet but I started giving them cutie orange slices since the crickets are providing extra supplements by being dusted and the oranges seem to keep them more hydrated and alive. I also use to give him hornworms as treats and organic dandelion greens from sprouts, strawberries as treats, and wax worms once in a blue moon but wax worms aren’t his favorite so not anymore, he use to have a live pothos plant but he tore it to shreds and I haven’t been able to get my hands on another organic one since because it’s so hard to find them without pesticides or other junk that could hurt him. The vet recommended dubia roaches but I’ve been breeding crickets that I get from Amazon from (buyfeedercrickets). And I’m too afraid to shy from crickets since I’m worried about his condition.

• Supplements - What brand and type of calcium and vitamin products are you dusting your feeders with and what is the schedule?

As I provided above I feed him about 6 large crickets everyday I use to dust with repti calcium without D3 every other feeding but the vet recommended every feeding. The crickets were eating Fluker’s orange cube complete cricket diet but I started giving them cutie orange slices since the crickets are providing extra supplements by being dusted and the oranges seem to keep them more hydrated and alive.

• Watering - What kind of watering technique do you use? How often and how long to you mist? Do you see your chameleon drinking?

He has a gallon dripper system that lands in a pool at the bottom of his cage he will either shoot his tongue at the falling droplets or dip his mouth in the pool at the bottom. I mist him once in the morning and once in the afternoon with a spray bottle I have and occasionally he’ll lick droplets off the fake plants in the cage. His urates are always white with that little bit of yellow at the end so I know he’s hydrated enough. I clean the pool out everyday when I pick up his droppings with tweezers he will sometimes poop in the pool every morning so that’s when I clean it out with soap and hot water.

• Fecal Description - Briefly note colors and consistency from recent droppings. Has this chameleon ever been tested for parasites?

He has tested negative for parasites his poops are firm and solid I can sometimes see undigested cricket legs in them but I will provide pictures of recent droppings. He just passed some odd droppings this morning a rather large and yellow urate and large poo.

• History - Any previous information about your cham that might be useful to others when trying to help you.

As I’ve mentioned previously during the snow storm and power outage he got too close to the top of his cage and got a little burn on the top of his casque it has since been treated and healed by a silver sulfadiazine cream. He had outgrown his old cage and I hadn’t had any problems with him getting too close to the top until the power outages. I hear little forced exhales from him now from time to time but he’s still strong and has a strong grip and he still wanders around the cage doing his little rounds eats and drinks. This problem with the swollen casque has persisted for about 3 months with no decline he’s still the same with the swollen casque and has had 3 vet visits he was on antibiotics ceftazidime (Fortaz was the brand name I was told. He finished those injections a month ago 2mL every 3 days alternate arms I had to give him myself but it seemed like such a small dose. I have tried handling him less but he will climb on the cage door which I call his little tantrums and when I open it he wants to come out. So other than the casque and little forced exhales he’s my normal happy guy he hasn’t gotten any better but also hasn’t gotten worse I just fear for the possibility of him getting worse.

Cage Info:

• Cage Type - Describe your cage (Glass, Screen, Combo?) What are the dimensions?

I have an exo terra screen cage dimensions are 18 x 23.5 x 35 inches the top of the cage is 63 inches from the floor.

• Lighting - What brand, model, and types of lighting are you using? What is your daily lighting schedule?

Basking branch is about 7 inches from top of screen cage and 9 inches total away from the bulb. The lighting bulb is a mercury vapor bulb that the vet recommended for him and it has been tested for UV output and heat and has passed it should be replaced in about 6 months I believe so it will continue to provide enough UV output I can’t remember the brand or model but it’s got a dome cover and has been tested to make sure it’s providing for him. His light is on a zoo med outlet timer that turns on at 7:30am when he usually wakes up and turns off at 9pm when he’s ready for bed I also cover his cage with a blanket at night so no other lights will disturb him while he’s sleeping.

• Temperature - What temp range have you created (cage floor to basking spot)? Lowest overnight temp? How do you measure these temps?

Basking branch is about 7 inches from top of screen cage and 9 inches total away from the bulb. The basking temperature on his branch is about 100 degrees F and the bottom of the cage is about 70 degrees F the lowest overnight temp is 70 degrees. I measure these using a zoomed digital thermometer and a bio dude thermometer and humidity gauge. My bio dude battery just died so I need new batteries.

• Humidity - What are your humidity levels? How are you creating and maintaining these levels? What do you use to measure humidity?

Humidity levels would range from 70% after a misting and get down to 30% before another misting with spray bottle. I am looking to install plexiglass on three sides of his cage to help conserve this humidity and also so I can get an automatic mister for him. I measured these levels with a bio dude dual humidity gauge and thermometer but my batteries just died so I need to get new ones. I will only use plexiglass if it is not reflective so he won’t get irritated by his reflection I’ve heard that can happen. I hope to get some live plants so also help with the humidity.

• Plants - Are you using live plants? If so, what kind?

Haven’t been able to get my hands on another organic pothos if anyone has recommendations for stores or sites I could get some veiled friendly live plants that’d be great but just plastic ones for now.

• Placement - Where is your cage located? Is it near any fans, air vents, or high traffic areas? At what height is the top of the cage relative to your room floor?

He is by my bedroom window but I usually keep the blinds closed and only open them on nice sunny days for him. No vents there is a fan on my ceiling but I never use it. And I’m the only one in my room so no high traffic.

• Location - Where are you geographically located?

I live in Lewisville, Texas which is upper east Texas.

Current Problem - The current problem you are concerned about.

Swollen casque and forced exhales from time to time they sound like tiny sneezes almost.View attachment 300355View attachment 300356View attachment 300357View attachment 300358View attachment 300359View attachment 300360View attachment 300361View attachment 300362View attachment 300363

 

[Nadya_a16]

I’ve read that one but my vet didn’t extract anything from the casque not air or liquid or even cells :/ and he was on antibiotics he finished them a month ago with no change in his condition. The vet said since there was no change she’s ruling out anything bacterial.

 

[Nadya_a16]

Respiratory infection. My male veiled was showing no signs of infection but his casque looked the same. The vet actually put a syringe in his casque and sucked out air! He was treated for a respiratory infection and made a full recovery.

Is there any way you could tell me the name of the antibiotics he was on? The dosage and how old he was? Karma is a year and 5 months and I had to give him 2mL injections of Fortas in his little arms every three days for 9 doses total :’(

 

[Nadya_a16]

So when did the swelling start? The thing is his legs are slim.. Can you post more pics of him for me please. I just want a few more details here because my concern is the potential for the swelling to be from infection due to a thermal burn. This can really mess them up. So if it was a sudden over the last few weeks thing then it is more then likely infection and fat.

But yes you are over feeding him. He should only get 3 feeders 3 days a week.

But the high heat needs to be reduced to a basking temp between 80-85max.
You want a T5HO fixture with a 5.0 uvb bulb. This should run the width of the cage and sit on top. Then basking needs to be about 8-9 inches below for the correct UVI level of approximately a 3.

Will definitely get those pics he is sleeping now and wasn’t in the mood to come out again earlier but I’ll try again tomorrow

 

[Erica1884]

Is there any way you could tell me the name of the antibiotics he was on? The dosage and how old he was? Karma is a year and 5 months and I had to give him 2mL injections of Fortas in his little arms every three days for 9 doses total :’(

 

[Erica1884]

Is there any way you could tell me the name of the antibiotics he was on? The dosage and how old he was? Karma is a year and 5 months and I had to give him 2mL injections of Fortas in his little arms every three days for 9 doses total :

 

[Erica1884]

It was an oral antibiotic. I attached some pics of the rx and what someone in thus thread concluded the rx was.Your Cham looks just like my boy did. The vet did note that the respiratory infection caused the subcutaneous emphysema. Perhaps this is the same thing perhaps not. They just look so similar! Did your vet put a syringe in the casque? I would assume if nothing came out air still did. Dr Mertz who my Cham saw is very knowledgeable. My Cham was about the same age as yours. He also had it for a while before he was treated. At first I didn’t quite know if something was really wrong with him. He was presenting perfectly fine aside from the swollen casque and cheeks. Good luck!