T-Rex products(no UVB bulb needed?)

Anilr16

New Member
http://www.petsmart.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2752427

says on the package "Eliminates the need of expensive light bulbs containing UVB"...could this really be true people? Apparently if you combine it with "Bone Aid" from (T-Rex) too its like a complete bang of Calcium/D3 and stuff. Im not stating this myself so dont go off mean, but I just want to know if this product being used correctly could really make UVB bulbs/tubes irrelevant?:confused::confused::confused:
 
No.
In fact the best way for your chameleon to produce D3 is to keep it outside in the natural sunlight.
Second best is to provide man made "sunlight" with a linear tube fluorescent UVB bulb.
As insurance a bit of D3 is included in the diet once in awhile for those animals who don't see the real sun too often.
That's it.
Experimenting has been done with Panthers with some interesting results but it's certainly not something one should try.
Stick with what works and be ALWAYS skeptical of "miracle" products.

-Brad
 
Well hey!!! I said dont give me any bad looks! (cough cough Brye)
and I was just wondering considering T-Rex bluntly put it out on their package. And yeah Syn, im sure youd have to correctly dose it pertaining to the animals weight and all.
 
Wouldn't this be weight/species dependent?

To some degree, although I think most people over supplement so weight isn't a real factor.
There are species that I suspect need more UVB radiation and species that require less.
Again, not something to experiment with.
If you can't afford a UVB tube, you can't keep chameleons.

-Brad
 
Wouldn't this be weight/species dependent?

Syn, the only thing that would depend on the weight/species would be the amount given and would be irrelevant as to if this could actually work.

And Anilr, I wouldn't use it, many people have noticed what good lighting or natural sun does for the chameleon. Some people have even said that through better lighting or natural sun, the colors of their chameleon improved and they became more active.
 
Exposure to UVB from the sunlight or a UVB light allows the chameleon to produce the amount of D3 it needs...as long as it can get out of the UVB when it wants to it should never get an overdose from it.

Using D3 from supplements might make up for not using a UVB light or exposing the chameleon to sunlight....but if you overdo it you will cause problems as you will if you don't use enough. How are you going to know what is enough since it takes time for the damage to show up?? Is it really worth the risk?

"It makes a lot more sense to me to let the animals decide how to regulate their vitamin D-condition via exposure to UVB than us by guessing at appropriate dietary levels."...
http://chamworld.blogspot.com/2008/03/chat-with-dr-gary-w-ferguson.html
 
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Syn, the only thing that would depend on the weight/species would be the amount given and would be irrelevant as to if this could actually work.
Which is my point, if it doesn't have instructions to do so it wouldn't work. It's just guessing and hoping.

To some degree, although I think most people over supplement so weight isn't a real factor.
There are species that I suspect need more UVB radiation and species that require less.
Again, not something to experiment with.
If you can't afford a UVB tube, you can't keep chameleons.

-Brad

Great points, Brad.
 
No.
In fact the best way for your chameleon to produce D3 is to keep it outside in the natural sunlight.
Second best is to provide man made "sunlight" with a linear tube fluorescent UVB bulb.
As insurance a bit of D3 is included in the diet once in awhile for those animals who don't see the real sun too often.
That's it.
Experimenting has been done with Panthers with some interesting results but it's certainly not something one should try.
Stick with what works and be ALWAYS skeptical of "miracle" products.

-Brad

Spot on the Money Brad! This is the juncture where supplimentation and replacement of nature (artificiality) overlap. Not Good to promote the use of products aimed at elimenating proven husbandry.
It/was only a matter of time, next its canned chow balls and vibrating food plates. Avoid this crap, feed a healthy gutloaded varying diet and allow your lizard access to natural sunlight and UV when it cant.
Captivity is not natural anyway, but we should keep it as natural as possible, to hell with the Prof Frink types in their biology labs who probly never kept a living lizard in their life.
 
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