T5 HO 5.0

MattandRicco

Established Member
I came accross this chart and am wonder if it is correct.....

Since veiled chams need at least 3.0 UVI readings to produce natural D3, shouldnt we be having the t5HO 5.0 4-5" from basking spot instead of the recommended 9" ?

Just a question for better knowledge, not imposing anything...
 

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I came accross this chart and am wonder if it is correct.....

Since veiled chams need at least 3.0 UVI readings to produce natural D3, shouldnt we be having the t5HO 5.0 4-5" from basking spot instead of the recommended 9" ?

Just a question for better knowledge, not imposing anything...
Again, there is no easy answer here. Screen material can vary widely. I actually have cheap screen cages that filter out close to 50% of the uvb, whereas Dragon strands are closer to 25%. A lot will also depend on the reflective material use. There was an old thread on here that discussed a particular brand of reflector. As I understood it, though it looked similar to other reflectors, it actually absorbed uvb, rather than reflecting it...needless to say this caused some major statistical anomalies with lamp ratings. The best way to figure this out is to pick up a solar meter 6.5. You can really dial in your uvb to your particular setup and situation. I know @Beman recommends t5 5.0 or 6% at 9”, but you have to realize she spares no expense with cage material, and rocks dragon strand for her babies. If you’re using another manufacturer, your screen material may filter out more light. Keep in mind that half a millimeter screen hole distance can make a huge difference with respect to light penetration.
 
Again, there is no easy answer here. Screen material can vary widely. I actually have cheap screen cages that filter out close to 50% of the uvb, whereas Dragon strands are closer to 25%. A lot will also depend on the reflective material use. There was an old thread on here that discussed a particular brand of reflector. As I understood it, though it looked similar to other reflectors, it actually absorbed uvb, rather than reflecting it...needless to say this caused some major statistical anomalies with lamp ratings. The best way to figure this out is to pick up a solar meter 6.5. You can really dial in your uvb to your particular setup and situation. I know @Beman recommends t5 5.0 or 6% at 9”, but you have to realize she spares no expense with cage material, and rocks dragon strand for her babies. If you’re using another manufacturer, your screen material may filter out more light. Keep in mind that half a millimeter screen hole distance can make a huge difference with respect to light penetration.
I have a zoomed repti breeze with a zoo med t5 ho light fixture, it sits right on top of my cage.....I cant wait to pick up my solar meter
 
This is going to explain it as well as you can I believe.
https://chameleonacademy.com/uvb/
Again, there is no easy answer here. Screen material can vary widely. I actually have cheap screen cages that filter out close to 50% of the uvb, whereas Dragon strands are closer to 25%. A lot will also depend on the reflective material use. There was an old thread on here that discussed a particular brand of reflector. As I understood it, though it looked similar to other reflectors, it actually absorbed uvb, rather than reflecting it...needless to say this caused some major statistical anomalies with lamp ratings. The best way to figure this out is to pick up a solar meter 6.5. You can really dial in your uvb to your particular setup and situation. I know @Beman recommends t5 5.0 or 6% at 9”, but you have to realize she spares no expense with cage material, and rocks dragon strand for her babies. If you’re using another manufacturer, your screen material may filter out more light. Keep in mind that half a millimeter screen hole distance can make a huge difference with respect to light penetration.

Thank you very much! This was really helpfull
 
I came accross this chart and am wonder if it is correct.....

Since veiled chams need at least 3.0 UVI readings to produce natural D3, shouldnt we be having the t5HO 5.0 4-5" from basking spot instead of the recommended 9" ?

Just a question for better knowledge, not imposing anything...

1, they dont need "at least 3.0 uvi". That is the upper limit, and what you are gunning for at the branch closest to the bulb. What are you going to do when the bulb is down 33% and only putting out 2.0 uvi in 8 months?


But that chart is correct. The put out usable uvb for about 2 feet, which lights up half of a 4ft tall cage, which is perfect. And you dont want Mr cham to get closer than about 4-5" else the UVI will spike to well above 6 UVI.

That chart is assuming you are placing it on a reptibreeze XL mesh cage. It would be silly for zoo med to put out a chart for zoo med products, and just pretend that the bulb is in the cage. Un screened a similar bulb will put out an additional 6" of usable range, based on my personal measurements. So screen or no screen only requires 4-6" sweet spot adjustment.
 
Again, there is no easy answer here. Screen material can vary widely. I actually have cheap screen cages that filter out close to 50% of the uvb, whereas Dragon strands are closer to 25%. A lot will also depend on the reflective material use. There was an old thread on here that discussed a particular brand of reflector. As I understood it, though it looked similar to other reflectors, it actually absorbed uvb, rather than reflecting it...needless to say this caused some major statistical anomalies with lamp ratings. The best way to figure this out is to pick up a solar meter 6.5. You can really dial in your uvb to your particular setup and situation. I know @Beman recommends t5 5.0 or 6% at 9”, but you have to realize she spares no expense with cage material, and rocks dragon strand for her babies. If you’re using another manufacturer, your screen material may filter out more light. Keep in mind that half a millimeter screen hole distance can make a huge difference with respect to light penetration.
I have tested a solarmeter on a standard zoomed cage along with my ds cage. They both reduce about the same. Where you get differences though is uncoated window screen. This reduces a bit less then the coated window screen. I have a full 10 inch drop on a cage that uses regular aluminum uncoated window screen because I had to replace my top panel vs the 9 inch drop to basking with the DS cage. Both pull 3.0-3.4 at basking and this is using a single bulb fixture made by vivarium electronics with a 6% bulb. only about 30-40 bucks for the fixture.
 
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I came accross this chart and am wonder if it is correct.....

Since veiled chams need at least 3.0 UVI readings to produce natural D3, shouldnt we be having the t5HO 5.0 4-5" from basking spot instead of the recommended 9" ?

Just a question for better knowledge, not imposing anything...
IMO there chart is not very on point with what I have tested with both a compact and a t5 with a 5.0 bulb.
 
I have tested a solarmeter on a standard zoomed cage along with my ds cage. They both reduce about the same. Where you get differences though is uncoated window screen. This reduces a bit less then the coated window screen. I have a full 10 inch drop on a cage that uses regular aluminum uncoated window screen because I had to replace my top panel vs the 9 inch drop to basking with the DS cage. Both pull 3.0-3.4 at basking and this is using a single bulb fixture made by vivarium electronics. only about 30-40 bucks for the fixture.
Nice! Empirically tested, verifiable data. Thanks, B!
 
I have tested a solarmeter on a standard zoomed cage along with my ds cage. They both reduce about the same. Where you get differences though is uncoated window screen. This reduces a bit less then the coated window screen. I have a full 10 inch drop on a cage that uses regular aluminum uncoated window screen because I had to replace my top panel vs the 9 inch drop to basking with the DS cage. Both pull 3.0-3.4 at basking and this is using a single bulb fixture made by vivarium electronics. only about 30-40 bucks for the fixture.

Awsome good to know :) thank you
 
I have a full 10 inch drop on a cage that uses regular aluminum uncoated window screen because I had to replace my top panel vs the 9 inch drop to basking with the DS cage. Both pull 3.0-3.4 at basking and this is using a single bulb fixture made by vivarium electronics with a 6% bulb. only about 30-40 bucks for the fixture.
Yesterday I installed the supports for my basking perch, figuring 9" from the 6% arcadia bulb through the top screen.

Today, as a check, I whipped out the old 6.5 and measured how much UVI I would be getting at that distance. After allowing the bulb to warm up, at 9" I'm getting 4.5 to 5. To get down to 3.0, I have to drop the distance to 13" from the bulb. :confused:
 
Yesterday I installed the supports for my basking perch, figuring 9" from the 6% arcadia bulb through the top screen.

Today, as a check, I whipped out the old 6.5 and measured how much UVI I would be getting at that distance. After allowing the bulb to warm up, at 9" I'm getting 4.5 to 5. To get down to 3.0, I have to drop the distance to 13" from the bulb. :confused:
Weird... I wonder if it is your fixture. I do let my bulbs warm up for an hour. But a 6% in my single bulb T5HO 48 inch fixture is producing 3.4 at 9 inches down at the branch. And your sure they sent you a 6% bulb huh? Might double check what is written on the bulb rather then the packaging.
 
42" LYR hood+ reflector no screen with T5 ho 6% and 6500k 6 months old: 1.8 UVI @ 12" .7 UVI @ 24"

42" LYR hood+ refector no screen with T5 ho 12% and 6500k 1 month old: 3.5 UVI at 12" 2.8 UVI @ 15"

Mine you these are double bulb single reflector, so numbers could easily be 20% higher with a single fixture, and be even higher depending on narrow/wide the reflector parabola is
 
Weird... I wonder if it is your fixture. I do let my bulbs warm up for an hour. But a 6% in my single bulb T5HO 48 inch fixture is producing 3.4 at 9 inches down at the branch. And your sure they sent you a 6% bulb huh? Might double check what is written on the bulb rather then the packaging.
Done & done—several times. It's the standard Chinese-made fixture from Pangea et al.
It does take a while for the bulb to warm up. We discussed this before...
https://www.chameleonforums.com/threads/quickie-arcadia-6-46-t5ho-uvb.177877/
but it takes a while every time—not just the first. Not irked—it's just not what I was expecting.
 
Done & done—several times. It's the standard Chinese-made fixture from Pangea et al.
It does take a while for the bulb to warm up. We discussed this before...
https://www.chameleonforums.com/threads/quickie-arcadia-6-46-t5ho-uvb.177877/
but it takes a while every time—not just the first. Not irked—it's just not what I was expecting.
Still weird. lol. I know my bulbs do start off stronger the first few months but I get no where near the high numbers you are getting.
 
Still weird. lol. I know my bulbs do start off stronger the first few months but I get no where near the high numbers you are getting.
I'm just going to have to lower the basking perches—at least for a while. Can't really raise the bulb, there's too much junk up top!
 
I'm just going to have to lower the basking perches—at least for a while. Can't really raise the bulb, there's too much junk up top!
I would try leaving it running for a few weeks first. Your not getting your cham yet are you? When my bulbs first go in they run stronger at about a 4.0 then drop back down to about a 3.4 after a month.
 
I would try leaving it running for a few weeks first. Your not getting your cham yet are you? When my bulbs first go in they run stronger at about a 4.0 then drop back down to about a 3.4 after a month.
It's getting close. If things don't wrap up soon, domestic harmony will be at risk. :rolleyes:
Add'l mist nozzles should be here Fri. and it's looking like I'll cobble a drain out of 1/2" PVC.
Plants have been acclimating for at least a month, lights are all set.
Should begin shopping soon. ?
 
Add'l mist nozzles should be here Fri.
Nozzles got here yesterday (a day early by USPS PM—must not have had any absentee ballots to slow things down... :LOL:). Went to Home Despot for supplies & sich [sic]; by the time we got back, I was done in. Working on mister today. ?
 
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